chapter 8 basic skincare products

Question 1

surfactant cleanser properties
● cleansing power from
● performance
● sensory
● delivery forms
● skin type

Answer 1

● cleansing power from surfactant mix: anionic (pri) surfactants and amphoteric/nonionic (sec) surfactants
● performance: excellent detergency and lather
● sensory: refreshing feel but may cause skin dryness
● delivery forms: solid, cream, paste, liquid, gel, powder
● skin type: oily, normal

Question 2

emulsion cleanser properties
● cleansing power from
● performance
● sensory
● delivery forms
● skin type

Answer 2

● cleansing power from emollients and humectants
● performance: high cleansing power, no lather
● sensory: leaves layer of emollient oil on skin after use, soft feel
● delivery forms: o/w emulsion. cream, milk, lotion
● skin type: dry, normal

Question 3

oil cleanser properties
● cleansing power from
● performance
● sensory
● delivery forms
● skin type

Answer 3

● cleansing power from emollients (form o/w emulsion when rinsed)
● performance: good cleansing power as makeup remover
● sensory: soft oil layer
● delivery forms: anhydrous single phase formation (no water)
● skin type: dry, normal

Question 4

functions of toner

Answer 4

main: remove final traces of dirt, soap residues, loose flakes of dead skin after cleansing stage

● temporarily shrink pore size
● remove/control sebum
● soothe skin aggravated by environment
● provide clean, refreshing skin feel

Question 5

key ingredients in toner

Answer 5

1. astringent eg. witch hazel, alcohol
2. water
3. emollients (for skin conditioning)
4. humectants
5. solubiliser (for emollients, to produce clear solution)
6. perfume
7. colourants
8. preservative
9. extracts (for claim)

Question 6

role of humectants in toner

Answer 6

● attract moisture to skin
● mitigate drying effect of alcohol (astringent)
● lower freeze point to ensure stability in cold temps
● help dissolve/solubilise other ingredients

Question 7

what to note for toner for dry, sensitive skin

Answer 7

low % of alcohol or replace with menthol (or add more humectants to mitigate drying effects)

Question 8

how does moisturiser work

Answer 8

when rubbed on skin, emulsion breaks down
● water from composition is added to surface layer of stratum corneum and reduces visible dry flakes/chapping
● humectants and emollients slow down TEWL by reducing moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR)