chapter 13 colour cosmetics Flashcards

1
Q

functions of lipstick (3)

A
  1. enhance lips appearance by imparting colour
  2. add colour to face for healthier look
  3. shape the lips
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2
Q

how to make lipstick more long lasting and matte

A

● increase wax and pigment (or use dye)

● add volatile silicon or hydrocarbon

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3
Q

how to make lipstick more glossy and smooth

A

add more oil

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4
Q

what is lipstick sweating

A

oil ingredients separating from stick due to prolonged exposure of lipstick to heat

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5
Q

what is lipstick blooming

A

after lipstick sweats, oil is reabsorbed into stick, leaving stick with recrystallised surface

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6
Q

role of waxes in lipstick

A

structurant and keeps it solid

● holds oil phase: prevents bleeding and sweating

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7
Q

requirements of good lipstick (7)

A
● good coverage but natural
● feel moist but does not smear
● no unpleasant taste/odour
● easy to apply
● retains form and appearance and colour
● no sweat or bloom
● non irritant
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8
Q

function of lip gloss

A

transparent coverage

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9
Q

function of lip liner

A

redefine lip outline

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10
Q

requirements of a good lip GLOSS

A

● easy to apply
● provide wet shiny look
● transparent coverage
● feel moist not dry

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11
Q

functions of face powder (2)

A
  1. complement skin colour by imparting velvety finish

2. mask shine of face to enhance appearance

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12
Q

requirements of face powder (4)

A
  1. colour shade is correct and doesn’t change after application
  2. smooth, natural coverage
  3. good adhesion for reasonable period of time
  4. good slip and easy application
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13
Q

key ingredients of face powder and their functions

A
  1. powder: coverage, bloom, slip, absorbency
  2. polymer: texture enhancer (esp in pressed powder)
  3. binder: provide adhesion, enhance water resistance
  4. colourants
  5. perfumes
  6. preservatives
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14
Q

role of talc in face powder

A

provide slip

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15
Q

role of kaolin in face powder

A

coverage

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16
Q

role of TiO2 and ZnO in face powder

A

coverage and UV protection

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17
Q

role of rice starch in face powder

A

bloom

18
Q

role of magnesium carbonate in face powder

A

absorbency (too much leads to skin dryness)

19
Q

what colourants are used in lipstick ?

A

usually synthetic organic colourants
● pigments: determine colour
● dyes: staining, lasting power
● inorganic pigments: adjust tone, brightness, TiO2, iron oxides, mica

20
Q

what happens if too much binder in face powder

A

may lead to glazing of powder surface bc difficult to remove/blend powder with puff

21
Q

what types of colourants are used in face powder

A

usually inorganic pigments (most common)
or organic pigments/lakes

● TiO2, ZnO: coverage, UV protection
● iron oxides: flesh tone

22
Q

what is liquid foundation

A

suspension of pigments in liquid emulsion

23
Q

functions of liquid foundation (4)

A
  1. hide flaws and blemishes
  2. even out various colour tones in skin
  3. protect skin from environment
  4. make skin surface appear smoother
24
Q

requirements of a good liquid foundation

A
● good skin feel
● easy spreading
● moderately fast drying
● not tacky, greasy, or too dry
● even coverage
● improve appearance but look natural
● good wear
● does not impart shine
● not settling, pours easily, stable
25
Q

what does BB cream stand for

A

blemish/beauty base/balm

26
Q

BB vs CC cream

A
CC cream has 
● lighter texture, 
● more coverage, 
● better hydration, 
● usu. wider range of shades (more inclusive)
27
Q

DD cream

A

combines benefits of BB and CC cream but focuses on anti-ageing

28
Q

functions of BB cream

A
● moisturiser
● make up base
● sun protection
● reduce shine
● conceal minor imperfections
● brightening
● anti-ageing
● oil control
29
Q

challenge in BB cream

A

finding the right shade that matches skin tone

esp for darker skin tones

30
Q

function of blusher

A

impart healthy glow to skin and give more dimension to cheekbones

31
Q

requirements for pigments in blusher

A

only non-bleeding pigments (TONER, TRUE) to avoid skin staining

32
Q

eye vs lip products

A

eye products are softer (more oil, less wax structurants) bc eye is more delicate than lip

33
Q

how are mascaras evaluated

A
  1. curving power

2. lengthening power

34
Q

categories of mascaras (3)

A

● water based
● water resistant
● water proof

35
Q

water-based mascara
● formulation
● water resistance
● ease of removal

A

● combi of waxes, water, pigment, etc. water evaps readily, creating a fast-drying film
● poor water resistance (may smudge, not long lasting)
● very easily removed by most facial cleansers, even just water

36
Q

water resistant mascara
● formulation
● water resistance
● ease of removal

A

● O/W emulsion containing waterproof polymers or high (>30%) wax content
● moderate water resistance
● easy to remove

37
Q

waterproof mascara
● formulation
● water resistance
● ease of removal

A

● W/O or W/Si emulsion, some solvent-based (combi of petroleum distillates, pigments, waxes, oils, other additives)
● excellent water resistance
● difficult to remove: need makeup remover/oil cleanser to remove completely

38
Q

requirements of eye makeup

A
● safe for eye
● easy to apply
● long wearing
● good coverage
● no oily luster
● no colour change
● no flaking, smudging
● water resistant or waterproof
● easy to remove
39
Q

role of silicones in makeup

A

plasticiser to make film flexible

40
Q

role of polymers in makeup

A

film forming/texture enhancer