chapter 13 colour cosmetics Flashcards
functions of lipstick (3)
- enhance lips appearance by imparting colour
- add colour to face for healthier look
- shape the lips
how to make lipstick more long lasting and matte
● increase wax and pigment (or use dye)
● add volatile silicon or hydrocarbon
how to make lipstick more glossy and smooth
add more oil
what is lipstick sweating
oil ingredients separating from stick due to prolonged exposure of lipstick to heat
what is lipstick blooming
after lipstick sweats, oil is reabsorbed into stick, leaving stick with recrystallised surface
role of waxes in lipstick
structurant and keeps it solid
● holds oil phase: prevents bleeding and sweating
requirements of good lipstick (7)
● good coverage but natural ● feel moist but does not smear ● no unpleasant taste/odour ● easy to apply ● retains form and appearance and colour ● no sweat or bloom ● non irritant
function of lip gloss
transparent coverage
function of lip liner
redefine lip outline
requirements of a good lip GLOSS
● easy to apply
● provide wet shiny look
● transparent coverage
● feel moist not dry
functions of face powder (2)
- complement skin colour by imparting velvety finish
2. mask shine of face to enhance appearance
requirements of face powder (4)
- colour shade is correct and doesn’t change after application
- smooth, natural coverage
- good adhesion for reasonable period of time
- good slip and easy application
key ingredients of face powder and their functions
- powder: coverage, bloom, slip, absorbency
- polymer: texture enhancer (esp in pressed powder)
- binder: provide adhesion, enhance water resistance
- colourants
- perfumes
- preservatives
role of talc in face powder
provide slip
role of kaolin in face powder
coverage
role of TiO2 and ZnO in face powder
coverage and UV protection
role of rice starch in face powder
bloom
role of magnesium carbonate in face powder
absorbency (too much leads to skin dryness)
what colourants are used in lipstick ?
usually synthetic organic colourants
● pigments: determine colour
● dyes: staining, lasting power
● inorganic pigments: adjust tone, brightness, TiO2, iron oxides, mica
what happens if too much binder in face powder
may lead to glazing of powder surface bc difficult to remove/blend powder with puff
what types of colourants are used in face powder
usually inorganic pigments (most common)
or organic pigments/lakes
● TiO2, ZnO: coverage, UV protection
● iron oxides: flesh tone
what is liquid foundation
suspension of pigments in liquid emulsion
functions of liquid foundation (4)
- hide flaws and blemishes
- even out various colour tones in skin
- protect skin from environment
- make skin surface appear smoother
requirements of a good liquid foundation
● good skin feel ● easy spreading ● moderately fast drying ● not tacky, greasy, or too dry ● even coverage ● improve appearance but look natural ● good wear ● does not impart shine ● not settling, pours easily, stable
what does BB cream stand for
blemish/beauty base/balm
BB vs CC cream
CC cream has ● lighter texture, ● more coverage, ● better hydration, ● usu. wider range of shades (more inclusive)
DD cream
combines benefits of BB and CC cream but focuses on anti-ageing
functions of BB cream
● moisturiser ● make up base ● sun protection ● reduce shine ● conceal minor imperfections ● brightening ● anti-ageing ● oil control
challenge in BB cream
finding the right shade that matches skin tone
esp for darker skin tones
function of blusher
impart healthy glow to skin and give more dimension to cheekbones
requirements for pigments in blusher
only non-bleeding pigments (TONER, TRUE) to avoid skin staining
eye vs lip products
eye products are softer (more oil, less wax structurants) bc eye is more delicate than lip
how are mascaras evaluated
- curving power
2. lengthening power
categories of mascaras (3)
● water based
● water resistant
● water proof
water-based mascara
● formulation
● water resistance
● ease of removal
● combi of waxes, water, pigment, etc. water evaps readily, creating a fast-drying film
● poor water resistance (may smudge, not long lasting)
● very easily removed by most facial cleansers, even just water
water resistant mascara
● formulation
● water resistance
● ease of removal
● O/W emulsion containing waterproof polymers or high (>30%) wax content
● moderate water resistance
● easy to remove
waterproof mascara
● formulation
● water resistance
● ease of removal
● W/O or W/Si emulsion, some solvent-based (combi of petroleum distillates, pigments, waxes, oils, other additives)
● excellent water resistance
● difficult to remove: need makeup remover/oil cleanser to remove completely
requirements of eye makeup
● safe for eye ● easy to apply ● long wearing ● good coverage ● no oily luster ● no colour change ● no flaking, smudging ● water resistant or waterproof ● easy to remove
role of silicones in makeup
plasticiser to make film flexible
role of polymers in makeup
film forming/texture enhancer
