Chapter 3 EN Flashcards
Acneic
Acne skin condition involving infected lesions
Alipidic
Lacking oil
Bacteria
Micro organisms that cause disease
Collagen
A protein fiber that gives shape and form to the skin
Comedogenic
An ingredient that causes pimples and blackouts
Dehydrated
Lacking water
Dermal matrix
Middle layer of the skin that contains structure and strength
Desmosomes
Hair like structure that helps hold down dead and dying skin cells
Dry
Lacking oil. Same as alapidic
Desincristation
To soften and emulsify pore debris
Detergent
To clean and remove fats, also defatting
Elastin
Highly elastic protein that allows skin to maintain its shape
Epidermis
Top layer of the skin
Free radicals
Unstable molecules degrade body tissues
Keratinized cells
Skin cells that have received the protein keratin, reached the epidermis and died
Natural barrier function
A collection of lipids and humectants that protect the skin from water loss and free radical damage
Natural moisturizing factor
When the natural barrier function works to protect skin
Glycosaminoglycans
Collection of saccharides, lipids, and humectants that protect collagen and elastin and promote healthy interstitial fluid
Humectants
Water binding ingredients
Interstitial fluid
The fluid between body cells
Peptide bonds
2 amino acids joined together
Propionibacterium acnes
The bacteria that causes acne
Stratum corneum
Top layer of the epidermis
Stratum corneum bonds
Desmosomes and natural moisturizing factor that hold down dead skin cells
Synovial fluid
Protective fluid of the joints
Functional ingredients
Ingredients that allow products to be user friendly, apply smoothly smell and look good with skin friendly PH level
Surfactants Emulsifiers Fatty acids Fatty alcohols Preservative and antioxidants Buffering agents
Surfactants
Detergents that break up oils, fats and other debris . Also called defatting agents or slipping agents (allowing product to move smoothly over skin)
Anionic surfactant
Negative charge-
Strong cleaners found in laundry detergent and dish soap
Cationic surfactants
Positive charge-
Strong cleaners with some conditioning properties. They should not be used in products intended for the face. Predominantly found in shampoo and hair conditioner. Some have bactericidal properties.
Amphoteric
Positive or negative charge-
These take on the pH of the water in the solution. Usually extremely mild when used as a foaming agent. These are not strong cleansers or emulsifiers.
Nonionic
No charge-
Most commonly used as cosmetic surfactants. Used as foaming agents, as stabilizers for heavy creams and emulsions
Emulsifiers
Chemicals that keep oil and water solutions mixed together. Can also be a surfactant or detergent.
Emollients
The feel good ingredients that give cosmetics that soft feeling that makes consumers want to use them.
Occlusive
When an emollient is being used as a skin protector. Meaning it sits on the surface of the skin, never penetrating the epidermis
Most common type of emollients
Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and mineral oil
Also silicones ( cyclomethicone and dimethicone)
Fatty acids
No corrosive fate derived from plants and animals.
Triglycerides that have been broken down by removing the glycerins from fat
