Chapter 13 Flashcards
Alpha hydroxy acid’s
Acids derived from plants mostly fruit that are often used to exfoliate the skin ; mild acids : Glycolic, lactic, Malik, and tartaric acid. Ahas exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal
Alcohol
Anti-septic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol as a special denatured ethyl alcohol
Algae
Arrive from minerals and phytohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin
Allantoin
And anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb country; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion, aftershave, and other skin student cosmetics for its ability to heal bones and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue
Alpha lipoic acid
A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
aloe vera
Most popular botanical caused in cosmetic formulation; emollient and film forming gum resin with hydrating, stuffing, healing, antimicrobial, and anti inflammatory properties
Alum
Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action
Ampoules
Small, sealed files containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water oil base
Anhydrous
Describes products that do not contain any water
Aromatherapy
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oil’s for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nine or oily, and volatile essential oil’s to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
astringents
Liquids that help remove excess oil on the skin
Azulene
Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by deep, blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties
Benzoyl peroxide
Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly use for blemishes and acne
Beta- glucans
Ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formulation of collagen
BETA hydroxy acid’s
Exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acid’s, BHA’ s dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
binders
Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together
botanicals
Ingredients derived from plants
Calendula
Anti-inflammatory plant extract
Carbomers
Ingredients use to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products
Carrot
Rich in vitamin a, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also use that product colorant
Certified colors
In organic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C which is drug and cosmetic
Chamomile
Plant extract with calming and soothing properties
Chelating agent
A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative
Chemical exfoliation
Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells in the intercellular matrix, or glue that holds them together( desmosomes )
Clay masks
Oil absorbing cleansing mass that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten
cleansers
Soaps and detergents that clean the skin
Coenzyme Q 10
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalize skin cells
Colorants
Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dies that give products color
Comedogenicity
Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a build up in the hair folic you’ll leading to the development of a Comedo black head
Cosmeceutical’s
Products intended to improve the skins health and appearance
Cosmetics
As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed pork sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
Delivery systems
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
detergents
Type of surfactant used as cleansers and skin cleansing products
DMAE
Dimethylaminoethanol, anti-oxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boost the effect of other antioxidants
Echinacea
Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties ; used internally to support the immune system
emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that liver crate, moisturizer, and prevent water loss
emulsifiers
Surfactants that caused oil and water to mix in for many motion; an ingredient that brings to normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
enzyme peel’s
Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins( dead skin cells)and exfoliate the skin
Essential oil’s
Oils derived from herbs; Have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche
Exfoliants
Mechanical and chemical products or processes use to exfoliate the skin
Exfoliation
Peeling or slowing of the outer layer of skin
fatty acid’s
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
Fatty alcohols
Emollients;fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
Fatty esters
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
Fresheners
Skin freshening lotions with a low alcohol content
Functional ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients
Glycerin
Formed by a decomposition of oils or facts; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance use as a solvent and as a moisturizer and skin and body creams
Glycoproteins
Skin conditioning agents drive from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
Gommage
A.k.a. roll off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin
Grape seed extract
Powerful antioxidant was soothing properties
Green tea
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant
healing agents
Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe and moisturize
Horse chestnut
Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as a vitamin P. Help strengthen papillary walls; use for couperose areas or telangiectasia
Humectants
Ingredients that attract water. Humectant draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface
Hydrophilic agents
Ingredients that attract water to the skin surface
Jojoba
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncommedogenic emollient and moisturizer
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells
Kojic acid
Skin brightening agent
Lakes
Insoluble pigments made by combining a guy with an inorganic material
Lanolin
Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifierwith high water absorption capabilities
Lavender
Anti-allergenic, anti-inflammatory, anti-septic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing
Licorice
Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation
Lipids
Fats or fat like substances ;lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
Liposomes
Closed lipid bilayer of spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
Lubricants
Coat the skin and reduce friction; Mineral oil is a lubricant
Mask
Aka pack or masques; Concentrated treatment products off and composed of herbs, vitamins, minerals clays, moisturizing agents, skin softener’s, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
Mechanical exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off the skin
Methylparaben
One of the most frequently use preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds ;non-comedogenic
Mineral oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum
Modelage masks
A.k.a. thermal mass; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, if plasterlike ingredient
Moisturizers
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin
Noncertified colors
Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments
Oil soluble
Compatible with oil
Olfactory system
Gives us our sense of smell which is the strongest of the five senses
Papaya
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme pills
Parabens
One of the most commonly use groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide a bacterial static and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms
Paraffin wax masks
Mask used to want to skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skins firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides
Performance ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin
Petroleum jelly
Exclusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; use after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing
Ph adjusters
Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the PH of products
Phyto therapy
Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits
Polyglucans
Ingredients derive from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin
polymers
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers)into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin surface at a microscopically controlled rate
Potassium hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soaps and creams
Preservatives
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
Propylene glycol
Humectant often used in dry – or sensitive skin waste risers
Quaternium 15
All purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and used. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies
Retinol
Natural form of vitamin a; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
Rose
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extracts, oil, or water
Salicylic acid
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include Sweet Birch, willow bark, and wintergreen
Seaweed
Siri derivatives such as allergy have mini nursing properties; for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aging skin firmness
Serum’s
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
Silicones
Oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncommedogenic, protective film on the surface of the skin
Sodium bicarbonate
Baking soda; an alkaline in organic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a PH adjuster
Sorbitol
Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness
Sphingolipids
Ceramides, or lipid material, they are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingolipid’s and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer
squalane
Derived from olives; desensitizes in nourishes; an emollient
Stem cells
Derived from plantsto protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; for health and antiaging benefits
Squalene
Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative
sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skin surface layer of tried that sells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products
Sun protection factor
SPF - ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection not UVA exposure
Tea tree
Soothing and anti-septic; antifungal properties
Tissue respiratory factor
TRF; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient
Titanium dioxide
In organic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
toners
Also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin surface
Urea
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, anti-septic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin surface and helps maintain healthy skin
Vehicles
Spreading agents and ingredients that carry where deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
Water soluble
Mixable with water
Witch hazel
Extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; Can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent
Zinc oxide
In organic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, suit, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, anti-septic, and antibacterial
