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Cosmetology > Chapter 20 > Flashcards

Chapter 20 Flashcards

1
Q

______ give you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave and curl pattern thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible

A

Chemical texture services

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2
Q

Without a thorough understanding of _______ cosmetologist could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves

A

Chemistry

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3
Q

What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage

A

Cuticle

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4
Q

Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair.?

A

Cortex

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5
Q

Which layer of the hair is the innermost layer of the hair and often called the pith or core of the hair?

A

Medulla

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6
Q

The term PH is an abbreviation used for potential _______, and the symbol pH represents the quantity of ______ ions in solution

A

Hydrogen, hydrogen

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7
Q

The ______ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains

A

pH scale

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8
Q

The range of numbers used in the pH scale is _______

A

0 - 14

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9
Q

Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to _______

A

Soften and swell the shaft

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10
Q

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is ______

A

Highly alkaline

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11
Q

What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react ?

A

Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds

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12
Q

Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?

A

Amino acids

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13
Q

Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain?

A

Peptide bonds

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14
Q

What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end to end like beads ?

A

Keratin proteins

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15
Q

The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are _____.

A

Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen

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16
Q

What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur type chains are joined together?

A

Disulfide bonds

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17
Q

Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in pH?

A

Salt bonds

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18
Q

Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat , but reform as the hair is ______.

A

Dried

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19
Q

________ is a two step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

A

Permanent waving

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20
Q

What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process ?

A

The size of the rod

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21
Q

In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the _______

A

Wrapping method

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22
Q

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called _______

A

Reduction

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23
Q

In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _______

A

Hydrogen

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24
Q

What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving

A

Thioglycolic acids

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25
Q

The __________ of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or thio.

A

Strength

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26
Q

The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _______

A

Ammonium thioglycolate

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27
Q

What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?

A

Degree of alkalinity

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28
Q

Alkaline waves, also known as ______, were developed in 1941

A

Cold waves

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29
Q

Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _________

A

9.0 - 9.6

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30
Q

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions?

A

Glyceryl monothioglycolate

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31
Q

All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _______.

A

Activator

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32
Q

Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between _________

A

7.8 - 8.2

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33
Q

Modern acid waves are actually ______ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH

A

Acid balanced

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34
Q

Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _______

A

Processing

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35
Q

Waves that are activated from an outside heat source , such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are _____ waves

A

Endothermic

36
Q

_______ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia , so that there is very little odor associated with their use

A

Ammonia free

37
Q

It is important for stylist to remember that ammonia free does not necessarily mean _______

A

Damage free

38
Q

What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent?

A

Thio-free

39
Q

________ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfates, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves

A

Low-pH

40
Q

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ______

A

5-10mins

41
Q

Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _______

A

Over processed

42
Q

Over processed hair that is further processed will become ________ and cause further damage, including breakage.

A

Straighter

43
Q

The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called _____

A

Thio neutralizer

44
Q

What is the most common neutralizer?

A

Hydrogen peroxide

45
Q

What is the most common type of perm rod?

A

Concave rods

46
Q

What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area ?

A

Straight rods

47
Q

What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod ?

A

Soft bender rods

48
Q

_________, also known as circle rods, are usually 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop.

A

Loop rods

49
Q

The _______ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends.

A

Double flat wrap

50
Q

The _________ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand.

A

Single flat wrap

51
Q

The _________ uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

A

Bookend wrap

52
Q

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into ______

A

Panels

53
Q

In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called ________

A

Base sections

54
Q

_______ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

A

Base placement

55
Q

Caution should be used with on base rod placement to avoid additional ________

A

Stress and tension on the hair

56
Q

_______ minimizes stress and tension on the hair

A

Half off base placement

57
Q

The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as ________

A

Base direction

58
Q

The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are ________

A

Croquignole and spiral

59
Q

In the croquignole method of wrapping the hair is wound from the __________ in overlapping concentric layers

A

Ends to the scalp

60
Q

In a _________ the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod

A

Spiral perm rod

61
Q

What is another name for the double rod wrap technique ?

A

Piggyback wrap

62
Q

The _______ also known as a straight set wrap is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the Same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases

A

Basic permanent wrap

63
Q

Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head ?

A

Curvature permanent wrap

64
Q

Base sections are offset from each other, row by row , to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair , in which wrapping pattern?

A

Bricklay permanent wrap

65
Q

What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zigzag partings to divide base areas ?

A

Weave technique

66
Q

Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of ______

A

Abrasions

67
Q

Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for ______ and will not hold a curl

A

Permanent waving

68
Q

_______ often found in home hair coloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.

A

Metallic salts

69
Q

What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form?

A

Chemical hair relaxing

70
Q

________ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects of the liquid flows

A

Viscosity

71
Q

________ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing

A

Japanese thermal straighteners

72
Q

What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?

A

Hydrogen ion

73
Q

Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with _______

A

Thio relaxers

74
Q

Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n) ________

A

Lanthionine bond

75
Q

Which relaxer contains only one component and is used without mixing?

A

Metal hydroxide relaxers

76
Q

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called __________

A

Lye relaxers

77
Q

Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and sold as no mix - no lye relaxers ?

A

Potassium hydroxide relaxers

78
Q

Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _________

A

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers

79
Q

What is a hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?

A

No base relaxer

80
Q

The difference in the strength of most chemical relaxers is determined by the concentration of ________

A

Hydroxide

81
Q

During a relaxer strand test the hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _________

A

Insufficiently relaxed

82
Q

Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hairs natural pH and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer ?

A

Normalizing lotion

83
Q

Keratin straightening treatments work by _________ in a semi permanent manner

A

Fixing the keratin in place

84
Q

A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a _________

A

Soft curl perm

85
Q

Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area?

A

Back of the head

Cosmetology (14 decks)

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