Chapter 20 Flashcards
______ give you the ability to permanently change the hairs natural wave and curl pattern thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible
Chemical texture services
Without a thorough understanding of _______ cosmetologist could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves
Chemistry
What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage
Cuticle
Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair.?
Cortex
Which layer of the hair is the innermost layer of the hair and often called the pith or core of the hair?
Medulla
The term PH is an abbreviation used for potential _______, and the symbol pH represents the quantity of ______ ions in solution
Hydrogen, hydrogen
The ______ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains
pH scale
The range of numbers used in the pH scale is _______
0 - 14
Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to _______
Soften and swell the shaft
In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is ______
Highly alkaline
What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react ?
Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds
Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?
Amino acids
Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain?
Peptide bonds
What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end to end like beads ?
Keratin proteins
The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are _____.
Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen
What chemical side bonds are formed when two sulfur type chains are joined together?
Disulfide bonds
Which bonds are relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in pH?
Salt bonds
Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat , but reform as the hair is ______.
Dried
________ is a two step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer
Permanent waving
What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process ?
The size of the rod
In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the _______
Wrapping method
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called _______
Reduction
In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _______
Hydrogen
What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving
Thioglycolic acids
The __________ of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or thio.
Strength
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _______
Ammonium thioglycolate
What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?
Degree of alkalinity
Alkaline waves, also known as ______, were developed in 1941
Cold waves
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _________
9.0 - 9.6
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions?
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _______.
Activator
Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between _________
7.8 - 8.2
Modern acid waves are actually ______ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH
Acid balanced
Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _______
Processing
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source , such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are _____ waves
Endothermic
_______ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia , so that there is very little odor associated with their use
Ammonia free
It is important for stylist to remember that ammonia free does not necessarily mean _______
Damage free
What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent?
Thio-free
________ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfates, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves
Low-pH
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ______
5-10mins
Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _______
Over processed
Over processed hair that is further processed will become ________ and cause further damage, including breakage.
Straighter
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called _____
Thio neutralizer
What is the most common neutralizer?
Hydrogen peroxide
What is the most common type of perm rod?
Concave rods
What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area ?
Straight rods
What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod ?
Soft bender rods
_________, also known as circle rods, are usually 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop.
Loop rods
The _______ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends.
Double flat wrap
The _________ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand.
Single flat wrap
The _________ uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Bookend wrap
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into ______
Panels
In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called ________
Base sections
_______ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Base placement
Caution should be used with on base rod placement to avoid additional ________
Stress and tension on the hair
_______ minimizes stress and tension on the hair
Half off base placement
The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as ________
Base direction
The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are ________
Croquignole and spiral
In the croquignole method of wrapping the hair is wound from the __________ in overlapping concentric layers
Ends to the scalp
In a _________ the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod
Spiral perm rod
What is another name for the double rod wrap technique ?
Piggyback wrap
The _______ also known as a straight set wrap is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the Same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases
Basic permanent wrap
Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head ?
Curvature permanent wrap
Base sections are offset from each other, row by row , to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair , in which wrapping pattern?
Bricklay permanent wrap
What is a very effective technique for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions using zigzag partings to divide base areas ?
Weave technique
Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of ______
Abrasions
Hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for ______ and will not hold a curl
Permanent waving
_______ often found in home hair coloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
Metallic salts
What is the process of rearranging the basic structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form?
Chemical hair relaxing
________ is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects of the liquid flows
Viscosity
________ combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing
Japanese thermal straighteners
What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers?
Hydrogen ion
Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with _______
Thio relaxers
Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a(n) ________
Lanthionine bond
Which relaxer contains only one component and is used without mixing?
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called __________
Lye relaxers
Which of the following are relaxers often marketed and sold as no mix - no lye relaxers ?
Potassium hydroxide relaxers
Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are _________
Guanidine hydroxide relaxers
What is a hydroxide relaxer that does not require the application of a protective base?
No base relaxer
The difference in the strength of most chemical relaxers is determined by the concentration of ________
Hydroxide
During a relaxer strand test the hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is _________
Insufficiently relaxed
Which conditioner contains an acidic pH that restores the hairs natural pH and should be used after a hydroxide relaxer ?
Normalizing lotion
Keratin straightening treatments work by _________ in a semi permanent manner
Fixing the keratin in place
A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a _________
Soft curl perm
Where should you start the application of the chemical relaxer, often considered the most resistant area?
Back of the head
