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Geology > Chapter 16 -- Shore and Shoreline Process > Flashcards

Chapter 16 -- Shore and Shoreline Process Flashcards

0
Q

The area from low tide to the highest level of land affected by storm waves

A ______ is the broader area which includes the shoreline, nearshore sandbars and islands, and sand dunes, marshes, sea cliffs.

A

Shoreline

Coast

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1
Q

Regular fluctuations of the sea in response to the gravitation attractions of the sun and moon.
Usually two cycles per day

A

Tides

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2
Q 
27million x smaller than the sun
##% stronger gravitational pull
###x closer
## day revolution
Tides occur ## minutes later each day
A

Moon
46%
390x closer
50 Minutes

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3
Q

Results from sun and moons combined effect.

Average 20% higher

A

Spring Tides

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4
Q

Results from the sun and moon at right angles

Average 20% lower.

A

Neap Tide

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5
Q

Oscillations of the water surface which transmit energy, in the direction of wave movement

A

Waves

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6
Q

Parts of a Wave

Highest point of the wave

A

Crest

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7
Q

Parts of a Wave

Lowest point of the wave.

A

Trough

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8
Q

Parts of a Wave

Distance from crest to crest.

A

Wavelength

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9
Q

Parts of a Wave

Time it takes for successive crests to pass a given point.

A

Period

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10
Q

Parts of a Wave

half of the wavelength

A

Wave Bass

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11
Q

Parts of a Wave

Wavelength divided by the Period

A

Speed

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12
Q

What are the four causes of waves?

A

Volcanic Eruptions
Faultings
Landslides
Wind

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13
Q

What are the three controlling factors of waves?

A

Wind Velocity
Wind Duration
Fetch

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14
Q

As waves enter water shallower than the wave base, the wavelength decreases but the wave height increases.
Waves then become too steep and plunge forward as ______.

A

Breakers

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15
Q

Area extending seaward from the upper limit of the shoreline to just beyond where the waves break.

A

Nearshore Currents

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16
Q

The bending of waves so that they are more nearly parallel to the shoreline

A

Wave Refraction

17
Q

Current resulting from wave refraction that flows parallel to the shoreline
Responsible for much transport and deposition.

A

Longshore Currents

18
Q

Narrow, surface currents which rapidly carry water from the nearshore zone seaward through the breaker zone. Extremely dangerous to swimmers.

A

Rip Currents

19
Q

Shoreline Erosion

Develop where erosion exceeds deposition.

A

Sea Cliffs

20
Q

Shoreline Erosion

Formed as a gently sloping, beveled surface abraded by wave action

A

Wave-Cut Platforms

21
Q

Shoreline Erosion

Wave-cut platforms that have been raised above sea level.

A

Marine Terraces

22
Q

Shoreline Erosion

Seaward projecting parts of the shoreline

A

Headlines

23
Q

Wave refraction around a rocky headland may erode the headland to form ___ _____ on each side

A

Sea Caves

24
Q

With continued erosion, the caves merge to form a ___ ____.

A

Sea Arch

25
Q

A collapsed arch leaves isolated ___ ______.

A

Sea Stacks

26
Q

Deposits of unconsolidated sediment extending landward from low tide to the edge of the dunes or a sea cliff.
Most common shoreline depositional feature.
Are continually modified by the action of the waves, longshore currents, tides, and storms
May be continuous or isolated pocket.

A

Beaches

27
Q

Components of Beaches

____________ is usually dry and water that rolls back down the beach after waves break

A

Backshore

28
Q

Components of Beaches

_______ are platforms that slope gently landward

A

Berms

29
Q

Components of Beaches

_______ ____ is exposed to the wave swash

A

Beach Face

30
Q

Components of Beaches

___________ is covered by water in high tide.

A

Foreshore

31
Q

Components of Beaches

______ is water that washes up on shore.

A

Swash

32
Q

Structures projecting seawards at right angles to the shoreline
Often built to widen a beach or slow erosion.

A

Groins

33
Q

Fingerlike projection of a beach into a body of water such as a bay.
Recurved spits have a curved free end.

A

Spits

34
Q

Spit that has grown until it completely closes off a bay from the open sea.
Both can be problematic where bays need to be kept open.

A

Baymouth Bars

35
Q

Type is spit extending out from the shoreline to and island.

Forms on the shoreward side of an island by refracted waves.

A

Tombolos

36
Q

Long narrow islands of sand formed at short distance offshore
Beach side is smoothed by waves
Land side is irregular due to storm shower deposits
Defined by beaches, wind blown dunes and a marshy area.

A

Barrier Islands

37
Q

Characterized by abundant sediment, wide sandy beaches, deltas and barrier islands (US Gulf Coast)

A

Depositional Coasts

38
Q

Steep and irregular, and lack well developed beaches (many west coast US beaches)

A

Erosional Coasts

39
Q

Found where sea level is rising with respect to the land

A

Submergent Coasts

40
Q

Found where land has risen with respect to sea level.

Tectonics, isostacy etc.

A

Emergent Coasts

Geology (13 decks)

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