CH.10 Flashcards
Know the process of constructive and destructive wave interference.
Constructive interference: the addition of wave energy as waves interact, producing larger waves.
Destructive interference: the subtraction of wave energy as waves interact, producing smaller waves.
What is meant by wave frequency and period?
Frequency: number of peaks passing per second.
Period: time it takes for two peaks to repeat.
What are refraction and diffraction?
Refraction: waves bend due to depth.
Diffraction:wave motion around objects.
Understand the concept of a wave moving energy but not water.
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What are rogue waves and how are they created?
Rare event likely caused by constructive interference of waves. Exist only for a short time
How are tsunamis created?
After an earthquake breaks along a fault line underneath the ocean floor.
What happens to the tsunami when it reaches shore?
The ocean level rises to the point where the water comes into the land to clear out everything in the land
Why are tsunamis NOT dangerous in the middle of the ocean?
In open ocean,long wavelength not a danger
What is the first sign of a tsunami if you’re near shore?
Lowering water levels.
What causes most of the ocean waves seen breaking at the beach?
Winds’
The swell feels bottom when the water is shallower than half the wavelength. The wave crests become peaked because the waves energy is packed into less water depth. Constraint of circular wave motion by interaction with the ocean floor slows the wave, while waves behind it maintain their original speed.
Generally describe what happens to wave speed, wavelength, wave height and the structure of the wave crest when a wave approaches shore.
When wave feels bottom, speed decreases, wave height increases, wavelength decreases. Wave becomes too steep and breaks
What is meant by a wave feeling the bottom of the ocean?
When the water depth is shallower than half of their wavelength.
How does depth and/or wavelength affect the speed of an ocean wave?
Distance water travels in what amount of time.
Deep water waves: wave speed dependent on wavelength.
Shallow water waves: wave speed dependent on depth.
What is meant by fetch?
Distance over which wind blows
What is an internal wave?
Form between 2 water masses of different density.
