Anti-Aging Products Flashcards
Chronological aging process. Affects the skin on the entire body. Slow, continuous, and irreversible tissue degradation
Intrinsic Aging
Smooth, thin, pale, and finely-wrinkled. Thinning of dermis, degeneration of elastin (decrease elasticity), loss of hydration (dry skin), decrease immune cell function (slow healing of wounds)
Intrinsic Aging
This is brought about by the reduction of collagen
Thinning of dermis
Young skin: Wavy ; Aged skin: __________________
Flattened surface
In intrinsic aging, barrier function of the skin is affected where ______ (drying/moisture) is observed, there is ________ (more/less) lipid content. In terms of melanocyte, there is _______ (more/less) density, there are _________ (more/less) blood vessels and (increased/reduced) vascular tissue, __________(hypertrophy/shrink) of sebaceous glands which results in the appearance of pores look (bigger/smaller)
drying; less; less; less; reduced; shrink; bigger
Acceleration of intrinsic aging due to exposure to environmental factors
Extrinsic aging
primary factors of extrinsic aging
UV radiation (photoaging) and smoking
Affects skin of the face, neck, hands, and forearms. Coarse skin with wrinkles, hyperpigmented areas, sallowness, increased fragility, textural roughness, and telangiectasia
Extrinsic aging
grayish-greenish yellow (paninilaw)
sallowness
evident dilation of blood vessels
telangiectasia
Naturally-sourced ingredients with multiple effects. Constituents depend on growing conditions, climate, weather, harvesting, and extraction methods. Used in very small amounts
Botanical extracts
Protect cells from damage by neutralizing free radicals. May stimulate collagen production, preserve hyaluronic acid levels, and exert anti-inflammatory effects
Antioxidants
Vitamin C, B3, and E; grapeseed extract, resveratrol, coenzyme Q10
Antioxidants
Applied topically or as injectable. Has anti-inflammatory, wrinkle reduction, skin firming, smoothening, moisturizing, and protective effects
Peptides and proteins
collagen, elastin, hydrolyzed wheat, soy protein, and botulinum toxin
Peptides and proteins
Block the release of acetylcholine that would stop muscle contraction, preventing wrinkles. This is not permanent
Botulinum toxin
Lipophilic molecules that can penetrate the epidermis and enter the dermis
retinoids
retinoids improve surface roughness and age spots, reduce fine line by _______________________
decreasing collagen breakdown
Can irritate the skin & cause photosensitization (this is an anti-aging active)
retinoids
retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid
retinoids
a retinoid that is prohibited in anti-aging product formulation. This is an OTC drug
retinoin
Naturally-occurring organic carboxylic acids
Hydroxy acids
Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid
Examples of beta-hydroxy acids
beta-hydroxybutyric acid and salicylic acids
Example of polyhydroxy acids
gluconolactone
Example of bionic acids
lactobionic acid
Example of aromatic acids
salicylic acids
Promote exfoliation, moisturization, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidative
Hydroxy acids
(T/F) “Photosensitivity associated with the use of retinoids and AHAs is reversible”
True
Surface desquamation. Reaches the epidermis only
Superficial peels
Damage entire epidermis and upper dermis
medium-depth peels
Wound the mid-dermis. Protein coagulation and complete peeling of epidermis with restructuring of basal layer and restoration of dermis.
deep peels
Microscopic spherical vesicles with lipid bilayer structure. May be incorporated with hydrophilic and hydrophobic actives
liposomes
Act as moisturizer. May shorten formulation shelf-life
liposomes
In delivery systems, permeation is greater with _______________
liposomal encapsulation
Eliminates irritation and optimizes dosage
liposomal encapsulation
with liposomal encapsulation, there is __________ (greater/lower) concentration and residence time in the epidermis and dermis for ___________ (prolonged/shortened) release
greater; prolonged
liposomal encapsulation protects the encapsulated materials from ______________
metabolic degradation
Spherical vesicles made of nonionic surfactants. Accommodates active ingredients with wide range of solubility. No moisturizing effect. Have better oxidative stability than liposomes
niosomes
Modified true or false: Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) are 2nd generation. Nanostructured Lipid Carriers are 1st generation.
Both false
Usually contains one solid lipid. You can encapsulate the bioactive in the lipid matrix
SLN
Limitation of SLN
Limitation on the drug actives you can incorporate
The matrix consists of a blend of solid and liquid lipid. it allows flexibility in terms of ingredients that can be incorporated
NLC
Provides light coverage, UV protection, hydration, and anti-aging benefits. Lighter than foundation but heavier than tinted moisturizer
Beauty Balm or Blemish Balm (BB)
Address skin discoloration, dullness, or sallowness. Contain light-diffusing particles and antioxidants. Offer SPF protection
Color Correcting (CC)
Combines benefits from BB and CC creams with primary focus on anti-aging. Help target appearance of wrinkles .
Daily Defense or Dynamic Do-All
A delivery system that controls systemic absorption
Liposomes
Bonus question: Who is the most beautiful person in the world?
Clue: He is perfect and deserves himself but no one deserves him because his perfection belongs only to him
Andre Martin E. Marapao
