3.1.3.3 Landforms Of Depositiom Flashcards
Outline the role played by wave energy and sediment in the development of
deposition landforms.
Deposition occurs in coastal areas where waves are low energy or where there is a large supply of sediment which the waves lack the energy to transport.
where does the sediment come
from for beaches
Offshore bars, longshore drift, wind-blown from up the coast, mass movement, sediment brought down to the coast by rivers.
Beaches form between which two ‘lines’?
The highest point reached by storm waves and the lowest tide.
Outline the main differences between sand and shingle beaches.
Sand = gentle gradient (<5o), small sediment size, less percolation, lots of swash/backwash
Shingle = steeper gradient (10-12o), larger sediment size, more percolation
Storm berm description
Flat, raised area of coarser sediment at the back of the beach
Formation of storm berm
High energy storm waves transport heavier sediment to the back of the beach, beyond the reach of tides and regular waves.
Description of cusps
Line of cresent shaped depressions formed on the lower foreshore, with sand in front and shingle behind
Formation of cusps
Form where sand meets shingle on a beach where swash and backwash are equally strong. Waves are split in two directions by the horn of the cusp, then break in the back of the cusp, depositing coarser material here.
Description of ripples
Wavy ripples of sand on the lower foreshore on gentle, sandy beaches
Formation of ripples
Formed by tidal wave action and reform at each tide.
Description of ridges
Raised areas of sand, parallel to sea on the lower foreshore on gentle, sandy beaches
Formation of ridges
Formed by tidal wave action and exposed at low tide.
Description of runnels
Depressions behind ridges that can trap water when the tide goes out. Form on the lower foreshore on gentle, sandy beaches
Formation of runnels
Formed by tidal wave action and exposed at low tide.
Outline the main differences between swash-aligned and drift-aligned beaches.
Swash aligned beaches occur where waves arrive parallel to the shore, meaning the swash and backwash occur at the same angle meaning no longshore drift and a build up of beach sediment over time.
Drift aligned beaches occur where waves arrive at an angle to the shore resulting in longshore drift, meaning beach sediment is transported along the shoreline resulting in a narrower beach.
.Describe the key features of spits, including the difference between simple and compound spits.
Long, narrow ridges of deposited sediment, joined to the mainline at one end and sticking out into the sea or across an estuary.
Simple spits are straight or with one recurved end. Compound spits have a series of minor spits or recurved ridges along their landward side (showing spits former positions).
Formation of a spit
1) Longshore drift occurs along drift-aligned coastline (waves arrive at an angle to coastline).
2) When the transported sediment reaches a change in direction of the coastline sediment is deposited out to sea, e.g., in the lee of a headland.
3) Over time the sediment accumulates to form a narrow ridge of sediment joined to the land at one end.
4) Deposition increases in the sheltered water behind the spit where a salt marsh may form.
5) The length of the spit depends on changing currents or rivers which may prevent sediments form being deposited e.g., a spit cannot extend across an estuary.
6) Wave refraction and a secondary wind direction cause the end of a spit to curve (simple spit). Over time multiple curves may form (compound spit).
Give a named example of both a simple and compound spit.
Simple = Spurn Point, Humber Estuary, east coast Compound = Hurst Spit, Solent Estuary, south coast
Outline the formation of a tombolo from a spit due to longshore drift.
Tombolos can form due to longshore drift, where a spit grows out and connects an island to the mainland.
Name an example of a tombolo formed in this way.
St. Ninians Shetland Islands Scotland
Outline the formation of a tombolo due to wave refraction.
- Tombolos form on swash-aligned coastlines with a beach and an island near the shore.
- Wave refraction causes waves to bend around the island, slowing in shallower water.
- As waves meet on the opposite side, energy drops, leading to sediment deposition.
- Over time, sediment accumulates into a sandbar, connecting the island to the mainland.
Identify the main features of barrier islands.
A series of long, narrow depositional islands, made of sand or shingle, running parallel to the shore. They can be up to 100 miles lang and are separated from each other by narrow inlets. Over time vegetation succession occurs.
Outline the likely formation of barrier islands
- Sediment was initially deposited along the coast at the end of the last Ice Age.
- Currents carried sediment onshore, forming beaches.
- Rising sea levels from melting ice caused coastal flooding, separating beaches from the mainland.
- Further sediment accumulation and vegetation succession stabilized the islands.
Barrier islands typically form in areas with low tidal ranges and shallow, gently sloping coastlines.
Name an area where there are barrier islands
West Frisian Islands, the Netherlands