WSET D3 - Portugal

Question 1

Summarise the history of Portugal’s wine industry development.

Answer 1

Although international grapes like Syrah and CS grown in number of regions, Portugal boasts wide variety of indigenous grapes capable making high quality wines.
Wine made in Tagus and Sado valleys far back as 2000BCE, with vines planted by Tartessians, originated in now Andalucía.
Phoenicians brought more vines, grape growing and winemaking further advanced by Greeks than Romans.
More recent history, Portugal had an alliance with England over 600 years, became major supplier to England after Treaty of Windsor (1386), more recently, Methuen Treaty of 1703. Through several centuries on-off wars with France, England turned to Portugal when supplies of French wine forbidden or taxed at punitive rates. The light, astringent reds from now Vinho Verde region in north- west corner Portugal eventually followed by Port from Douro Valley, then later wines from around Lisbon.
However, Wine production negatively affected during Peninsular Wars Portuguese Civil War and same time French and Spanish wines started to become increasingly popular in Europe. From 1867, phylloxera devastated industry and many Portuguese regions found it difficult to recover. 40- year rule of prime minister Antonio de Oliviera Salazar, from 1932, also did little to promote quality wine production. Co-operatives given preferential rights, leading to over 100 co-operatives being founded in 1950s and ‘60s. However cooperatives were badly equipped and generally made high volumes poor-quality wines, tarnishing reputation of Portuguese wine. incredibly successful brands launched within this period; Mateus Rosé in 1942 and Lancers Rosé in 1944.
Carnation Revolution and return to democracy in mid-1970s followed by accession to EU in 1986 signalled start of a new era. Restrictions on production and trade ceased and low-interest loans and grants encouraged many to make and market their wines, generally to much higher standard than co-operatives.
Without government protection, co-operatives forced to adapt their practices, and a number closed. Finance from EU enabled modernisation of Portugal’s infrastructure, initiation of research programmes and training, and investment in modern grape growing and winemaking equipment (temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks).
Recent years, focus on export markets. To help country recover from recent debt crisis, 2011–2014 bailout by EU and IMF resulted in an austerity programme that made further development of export markets imperative. Fortunately, Portugal’s ability to provide ripe reds and fresh whites at inexpensive and mid- prices, whilst offering range of varieties rarely found elsewhere, meant wines found a place on world stage.

Question 1

What is the climate here?

Answer 1

West strongly influenced by Atlantic, cool, rainy weather particularly to north west.
Ranges mountains protect more inland northerly regions which, with a continental climate, enjoy warmer, drier growing seasons.
In warmer, drier south, topography characterised largely by rolling hills and plains.

Question 2

What is the main soil types found here?

Answer 2

Local climate and variations in soil impact varieties grown and styles.
Schist or granite commonly found in mountainous regions, such as Vinho Verde, Douro, Dão, and hilly outcrops in Alentejo.
Regions further south near coast such as Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo and Península de Setúbal, have more varied soils: some areas have clay soils with high limestone content, other have sandy soils. Also some fertile alluvial soils around riverbanks, eg. in Tejo.

Question 3

Summarise viticulture development in Portugal.

Answer 3

Substantial number high-producing vineyards on most fertile alluvial soils, especially Tejo, also Vinho Verde/Minho, have been grubbed up since Portugal joined EU in 1986. Replanting focused on higher quality material and sites.
With warm, sunny dry climate together with flat topography allowing mechanisation, Alentejo in particular seen significant investment and vineyard growth. EU funds and recruitment of consultant winemakers meant Alentejo started produce quality wines, in a soft, ripe stylequickly popular on both domestic and export markets. This encouraged further planting and investment. Compared to many regions made up of many growers with small holdings, Alentejo has high number estates with large, relatively young, vineyard holdings. Given proximity to Lisbon, many estates set up for tourism.

Question 4

How is irrigation regulated in Portugal?

Answer 4

Generally not require authorisation but regulation may still exist at regional level; eg, Douro producers must notify IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto) when irrigate. Generally only to be used in scenarios where lack of water could jeopardise quality and cannot used for boosting yields.

Question 5

What are some hazards, risks and pests in the vineyards?

Answer 5

1. Drought has been an issue recent years with climate change, especially continental, inland regions: Douro, Dão and Alentejo.
2. Extreme weather events also an issue in some areas some years; eg, Douro suffered from hail and storms recent years and 2017 yields in Dão reduced by wildfires.
3. Wet weather in more coastal regions can increase risk of poor fruit set and later in season, fungal disease.
4. Trunk disease esca and European grapevine moth.

Question 6

How are the vine trained and pruned?

Answer 6

Majority cordon or replacement-cane, VSP trellised.
Significant number old bush vines can be found in Douro and certain areas of Alentejo, much smaller proportion in Dão and Bairrada. Usually planted in varietally mixed vineyards, producing ‘field blend’. majority modern vineyards planted to one variety or in varietal blocks.

Question 7

How is organic wine growing in Portugal.

Answer 7

Low proportion compared to some EU countries; however, number of growers/wine producers tend vineyards using organic methods but feel benefits of certification not worth the cost. Organic wines expected to grow in coming years with number of vineyards in process of conversion.

Question 8

What are the top varieties used in Portugal?

Answer 8

Aragonez/Tinta Roriz
Touriga Franca
Touriga Nacional
Fernão Pires/Maria Gomes
Castelão
Trincadeira
Baga
Loureiro
Arinto/Pedernã
Syrah
Roupeiro
Alicante Bouchet

Question 9

Summarise the grape varieties in Portugal.

Answer 9

Many grown in multiple regions. However plantings for any variety may concentrated in particular region (e.g. Castelão mainly grown in Península de Setúbal, but also to lesser extent in Lisboa, Alentejo and Tejo).
Certain international varieties in some regions, such as Tejo, Alentejo, Bairrada, and some sub-regions of Lisboa and Península de Setúbal, but not in Douro, Dão or Vinho Verde. However, recent past, Alentejo, Lisboa and Tejo heavily relied on international varieties as part of export strategies, now a growing tendency return to Portuguese varieties and some small, ‘artisanal’ producers reviving native grapes that fallen out of fashion.
Majority wines, both red and white are blends, with relatively few exceptions; eg, Baga in Bairrada, Encruzado in Dão and Alvarinho in Monção e Melgaço.

Question 10

How’s winemaking like?

Answer 10

Admission to EU led to substantial modernisation winemaking practices and equipment. Protective winemaking techniques and stainless steel tanks with easy temperature control helped to produce fruity wines, especially leading improvements in whites. De-stemming equipment led to significant improvements in tannin management for reds, also introduction of French oak for maturation (remains primary type of oak for reds and whites, though there is some American.
Small proportion producers retained some traditional techniques and joined by others keen to experiment with less widely used techniques. In past, large (3,000–6,000 L) Portuguese oak and Brazilian hardwood toneis commonly used and maintained by some high-profile wineries mainly in Bairrada. In line with worldwide trends, producers become more restrained in oak, reducing new oak, time in wood, and using larger format oak. There has been a niche revival of toneis-sized wooden vessels, though producers typically buying new foudres (typically 2,000–2,500 L) and wooden fermenters from France, Italy and Austria.
There is also little experimentation with Portuguese oak and chestnut barrels (common in past).
Fermenting and foot-treading in lagares, or now easy-to-clean stainless steel, regularly practised up and down Portugal.
Fermenting and/or ageing wine in clay vessels risen in popularity and fermenting on skins (red and white) in clay been enshrined with its own DOC Vinho de Talha in Alentejo, (‘talha’ is local name for clay amphora).
A degree of pre-fermentation skin contact is common with premium whites and a revival of interest in fermenting whites on skins. Natural wines also seen growth.

Question 11

Wine law and regulations.

Answer 11

Follows a PDO and PGI system.
DOC/DOP – Both traditional term Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) and more modern Denominação de Origem Protegida (DOP) widely used for PDO wines.
31 DOCs. Each DOC has own regulations on grape growing and winemaking and all wines must be officially tested, tasted and approved.
VR – Vinho Regional (VR) is widely used traditional term for PGI wines. 14 VRs and regulations less stringent than PDOs. Often permit international varieties such as CS and Chardonnay, whereas some PDOs do not, and in general allow wider varieties.
Vinho – for wines not of PDO or PGI status.

Question 11

Wine business.

Answer 11

Small land holdings.
Until Carnation Revolution in 1974, growers had a ready market for grapes. They were sold to negociants and co-operatives who produced bulk wine, which shipped to Portugal’s former colonies in Africa, Angola and Mozambique. High-volume wine brands like Mateus Rosé and Lancers and big brand Vinho Verdes like Casal Garcia still largely sourced from grower divorced from business of making and selling wine.
However, especially following access to EU subsidies and funding, negociants acquired vineyards in a move to diversify, increase quality and compete in non- traditional export markets. (eg, Sogrape, biggest wine company in Portugal). Numbers of growers sought to add value to their grapes and become producers with their own estate (Quinta/Herdade) brand, especially in Douro, Alentejo, Dão, Vinho Verde and on smaller scale in Bairrada, Lisboa and Tejo. Co-operatives reduced in numbers. A new, small but influential trend is rise of small-volume winemakers who own no vineyards. They carefully select vineyards, often old and neglected, in overlooked regions, or planted unfashionable native varieties, to source grapes.
Steady growth in volumes and value per unit seen over at least past two decades.
Domestic sales also gradually increased, caused by growth in average income, and significant rise in tourism to the country.

Question 12

What are the main export countries?

Answer 12

France, Angola, Germany,UK

Question 13

What is the wine promotional body in Portugal?

Answer 13

Wines of Portugal, founded in 2010 with focus on promoting and educating consumers and trade in export markets on Portuguese wines.

Question 14

What is the climate and soils in Vinho Verde.

Answer 14

River Minho forming border with Spain (and Rías Baixas in Galicia) to north, and by mountains of Peneda-Gerês National Park to east. Extends just beyond River Douro in south. DOC split into 9 sub-regions. (Vinho Regional is called Minho and has identical boundaries to DOC, though production much smaller.).
Moderate maritime climate (Atlantic coast and network of river valleys funnel Atlantic winds inland). As land gradually rises to east, soils become poorer and climate more continental. Here warmer, drier sub- regions, such as Baião and Monção e Melgaço, later ripening varieties such as Avesso, produce wines with more body and alcohol, notably Alvarinho.
Rainfall is high (up to 1,500 mm falling throughout year). Vintage variation can be marked, having implications for ripening and yield .
Much vineyard land is on granitic bedrock with shallow topsoil of decomposed granite with a sandy texture, providing good drainage. natural fertility of soil is low and therefore fertilisers (manure) commonly needed.

Question 15

Vineyard management in Vinho Verde.

Answer 15

Rainfall throughout the year, fungal diseases including rot and mildew. Traditional training was up trees to benefit from better air circulation. Some with small land holdings still have vines trained up trees, or on trellises over terraces, but most modern vineyards now planted in rows, either single or double Guyot (replacement-cane) with VSP, or lyre system. All trained relatively high to increase air circulation and reduce rot. Summer pruning, such as removal of lateral shoots, leaf removal and green harvesting for productive varieties, to enhance fruit ripening and improve air circulation.

Question 15

Grape varieties in Vinho Verde.

Answer 15

Most grown is Loureiro (Loureira in Rías Baixas). Mid-ripening , M (+) acidity and citrus, pear, floral and herbal aromas.
Second most Alvarinho (Albariño in Rías Baixas), citrus, peach sometimes tropical flavours, often with M (+) body and M (+) to high acidity.
Third most planted Pederña (Arinto). Mid- ripening, more neutral than Loureiro or Alvarinho, subtle citrus and apple, high acidity.
Other varieties include Avesso and Trajadura. Avesso: late-ripening, can fail to ripen fully unless relatively warm and dry. Tends to be grown inland in south, particularly sub-region Baião (slightly warmer, drier). Lower acidity than some others, relatively full-bodied, citrus and stone fruit. Trajadura: (Treixadura ) low acidity with apple and peach flavours. Usually blended with varieties have higher acidity. Vinhão: (Sousão in Douro and Sousón in Galicia) most planted black variety, deeply coloured wines with cherry fruit and high acidity.

Question 16

Winemaking and wine law.

Answer 16

Inexpensive, high-volume wines may use fruit sourced across region and blend of varieties. Protective methods and cool fermentation in stainless steel. Most Vinho Verde bottled for release soon after end of fermentation and carbon dioxide often added at bottling to give a light spritz. Typically low alcohol, M (+) to high acidity with apple, citrus and/or peach flavours, depending on varieties used. Some may have small amount residual sugar. Good quality and made by one of co-operatives or large merchants.
Higher priced, often from smaller, boutique producers, tend to be still and there is a growing number single varietal, single sub-region wines. A few use ambient yeasts, (mostly) old oak for fermentation and/or maturation and may choose to keep wine on its lees for few months to enhance complexity and texture. Mid priced to premium and very good.
Name of sub-region may appear on label - min. 9% abv (rather than standard 8% abv for wines do not mention sub- region).
Single varietal Alvarinho from Monção e Melgaço must made to lower max yields and min. alcohol 11.5% abv. Legislation permits only Monção e Melgaço name Alvarinho on labels as single variety. From 2016, wines from other sub-regions may name Alvarinho on label alongside names of other varieties within blend, Alvarinho accounts at least 30% blend. Producers from subregions other than Monção e Melgaço must declassify their wine to Minho VR if they wish to label as single varietal Alvarinho.

Question 17

Wine business.

Answer 17

Ownership very fragmented. average less than 1/10 a hectare. Most growers deliver grapes to co-operatives or large merchants. Significant producers - Anselmo Mendes and Quinta de Soalheiro.
approximately 35% exported.
Germany, USA, Brazil and France, with USA leading in value of sales.

Question 18

Summarise Douro region.

Answer 18

Douro region makes more wine than any other. Douro DOC established in 1982.
First ambitious Douro red was made by Fernando Nicolau de Almeida, worked as a winemaker at Ferreira Port. Following visit to Bordeaux, de Almeida returned Portugal convinced high quality unfortified wine could be made from Douro grapes.
1952, he made first vintage of Barca Velha, settled on Tinta Roriz provide majority blend, with local grapes making up rest. Barca Velha was not popular when first released, but now commands super-premium prices can be 10 times price of good vintage port.
High-quality Douro unfortified wine did not get underway until Portugal joined EU in 1986, bringing necessary finance to invest modern winemaking equipment. Few owners brought a court case to be allowed to export port from estates (quintas) in Douro. Up until then, all port had to be exported from Vila Nova de Gaia, where major port shippers had warehouse and bottling lines. The case succeeded, and kickstarted development of modern generation unfortified Douro wines, many are estate (single quinta) wines.

Question 19

What are the climate and soils like in Douro region?

Answer 19

Demarcated region follows Douro river over 100km.
3 sub-regions: Douro Superior (Upper Douro) in east, Cima Corgo in centre, Baixo Corgo in west. Western limit is marked by Serra do Marão, 415m at its highest point. Shields region from worst cooler, damper Atlantic weather, means overall warm continental climate. However, site location is important.
Westernmost, Baixo Corgo is coolest and wettest (900 mm), Cima Corgo warmer and drier (700 mm) and Douro Superior is hot and arid (450 mm). Douro and its tributaries provide valley sides with variety of aspects and altitudes - huge range microclimates.
Bedrock is schist, with shallow topsoil mainly made up of decomposed schist. Low in organic matter and stony in texture, stores little water, however, schist bedrock splits into vertical layers, roots can break through in search water. Particularly important given many Douro’s hillside vineyards not set up for irrigation and dry, increasingly drought-prone climate. 2019, IVDP relaxed regulations about irrigation which not previously permitted except extreme circumstances. Today, when hydric stress jeopardises quality and vineyard located in area where irrigation authorised, producers need only notify IVDP if irrigate.

Question 20

What are the grape varieties used in Douro region?

Answer 20

Usually blends of varieties. Single varietal typically Touriga Nacional or Tinta Roriz, but rare. Similar to Port; Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão.
Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional, tend to retain acidity well, give ripe but not jammy black fruits, popular lead in blends. Touriga Franca - M body, M alcohol, red and black fruits often some floral character. Touriga Nacional - high colour and tannins with black fruit and floral notes, violet, rose or orange blossom. Plantings of Sousão increased last few years, its high acidity bringing freshness even in warm years. DOC permits large range other varieties.
Grapes used for Douro DOC whites are traditional varieties, many native to Douro Valley. Viosinho (full-bodied with floral notes and stone fruit, but can lack acidity), Rabigato (high acidity, citrus and floral), Gouveio (Godello in Spain, M (+) acidity, citrus and stone fruit) sometimes with Moscatel Galego Branco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) to enhance intensity of aromas. Tend to be grown at highest altitudes, providing cooler day and night-time help retain acidity.
Douro wines tend to be made from grapes blended from range of sites, though some do make from single vineyard plot. Producers generally aiming for ripe but not over ripe grapes, blend of sites (along with blend of varieties) can help achieve this despite variances weather year on year. Aspect, altitude and distance from coast can all influence site climate.

Question 21

Wine making and styles.

Answer 21

Douro DOC can be made as red, rosé or white, or sparkling. From inexpensive, good quality for early drinking to premium sometimes super-premium priced, very good and outstanding with much greater intensity and complexity, sometimes from field blends of old vine (vinhas velhas). Now virtually all Port houses make dry wines. Significant producers - Prats & Symington and Quinta do Vale Meão.
Grapes usually destemmed as high tannin in many varieties means additional tannin rarely needed and producers do not want to risk green, unripe flavours. Fermentation tends in stainless steel tanks permit easy temperature control. Temperatures relatively low for reds (24–28°C) allow greater control over tannin extraction. Some still have wide shallow lagares and may blend in small proportion wine fermented in lagares or start fermentation in lagares (influence may differ from producer to producer depending on what cap management carried out and whether lagar is temperature controlled). A benefit is easier to monitor level of extraction in open lagar than closed tank.
Wines for early drinking may pressed off skins once fermentation complete. Post fermentation maceration can be carried out for longer ageing to further extract and soften tannins. Maturation traditionally in large oak often from Portuguese oak but modern times, smaller vessels such as barriques become common, French oak preferred.
Similar trends as other coutries, winemakers now increasingly using larger vessels (e.g. 400– 500 L) and less new oak as not to overpower fruit.
Douro whites just over 1/4 sales. Inexpensive, fresh Douro whites fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel and bottled for sale soon after. Light to M aromas and flavours, M to M (+) acidity and good quality. Moscatel Galego Branco often used to enhance aroma intensity. Conversely, premium whites tend to be produced from old vines and often fermented and matured in oak (new or old). Greater intensity and variety of aromas and flavours plus greater body and texture. Very good quality with some outstanding examples.
Small volume dry rosé made, by limiting maceration on skins. Mostly simple and drinking young.

Question 22

Wine business.

Answer 22

The VR Duriense produces much lower volumes but is an option for producers choose to use non- local varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling and Syrah.
Large choice of premium wines, many made from estate-grown grapes and named after quinta. Many well-known Port producers, including Symington, Quinta do Noval and Niepoort, make range of Douro wines.
Inexpensive, high volume wines often sourced from different quintas and may be made by 1 of region’s 23 co-operatives.
Port production volumes and prices for grapes are controlled by Beneficio (does not exist for Douro DOC wines, prices influenced by market. Prices grape growers receive for Douro DOC grapes is substantially below Port grapes. In years of surplus, prices drop even further, often below cost of production. Some producers and critics argue artificial prices for Port grapes ubsidising grapes for unfortified wines.
Main export markets: Canada, Brazil and UK.

Question 23

How’s the climate and grape growing like in Dāo?

Answer 23

Surrounded by mountains, protecting it from cool maritime weather from west, and warmer, more arid conditions from east and south. Overall Mediterranean climate with warm, dry summers and mild winters. Rainfall relatively high (1,600 mm west, 1,100 mm in east) mainly falls in autumn and winter.
Majority land is home to pine and eucalyptus forests (bring signature note to wines). Mixed topography with number of hills, valleys and mountain sides, range of aspects and altitudes. Most at 400–500 m (some as low as 200 m, in easternmost Serra da Estrela subregion, as high as 900m) moderating day-time temperatures and high diurnal range.
Other hazards - hail (summer), and spring frosts in flat, low-lying vineyards where mountain air descends.
Many on gentle slopes, although bush vines traditional, most modern plantings are double or single Guyot (replacement-cane pruned) or cordon-trained with VSP trellising.
Harvest sizes vary significantly based on weather during growing season.

Question 24

What’s the main soil type in Dão?

Answer 24

Mainly weathered granite with sandy or loamy texture. Low in organic matter and free draining, constraining vigour and meaning water stress can be an issue during ripening.

Question 25

What are the main varieties used and wine styles made in Dão?

Answer 25

80% is red. Key black varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrocheiro, often blended.
Touriga Nacional - deep colour, high tannins and acidity and black fruit and floral or herbal notes. Tinta Roriz ripens earlier and has deep colour, M to M (+) tannins and a full body. Both can make single varietal \which capable of bottle ageing or used to lend structure to red blend. Jaen (called Mencía in Spain) produces wines with moderate acidity and raspberry and blackberry. As a single varietal wine, sometimes made by carbonic maceration for fruity wine early consumption. Alfrocheiro has M tannin and body with strawberry and blackberry flavours. As a single varietal, usually made in soft, fruity style for early consumption, and sometimes used for rosé. Both Jaen and Alfrocheiro can soften and lend ripe fruit to red blends. Overall, reds tend to be less full-bodied and intense than Douro, fresher flavours, higher acidity.
Reds used to be excessively astringent and lacking fruit from long periods maceration followed by extensive maturation in old oak. Now, shorter maceration and ageing in oak is common. Use of new oak is typical, but some started to reduce it . Dão reds: Good to outstanding, mid-priced to premium, a few super-premium examples.
Encruzado is key white for high quality wines. It has M to M (+) acidity, can be full-bodied with lemon and peach sometimes floral note. either fermented in neutral vessels retain fruit or fermented and matured in oak vessels, sometimes with lees ageing and stirring, for texture. Oak-fermented examples capable of ageing well in bottle and develop nutty characters. Good to very good, few outstanding examples, mid to premium priced. Other common white grapes, often blended together or with Encruzado, include Malvasia Fina (Boal in Madeira), Bical and Cercial.

Question 26

Wine business.

Answer 26

small vineyard holdings. After accession to EU and over turning of legislation that favoured co-operative production, Sogrape (Portugal’s largest producer) led way in producing higher quality wines at all price points. Now growing number quality-focused private companies (merchants and estates) making premium wines, including young winemakers attracted by quality of fruit Dão can produce. Significant producers - Vinha Paz and Quinta da Pellada.
15-20% exported, Canada, Brazil, USA and China.

Question 27

What is the climate and grape growing like in Bairrada?

Answer 27

West of Dão. Maritime climate.
800–1,200 mm (some areas up to 1,600 mm) mainly in spring and autumn, can be problematic for late-ripening varieties such as local Baga. As in many other regions, DOC boundaries much larger than planted area. Fertile alluvial soils in west, from river estuaries silted up, and limestone-clay slopes. In Cantanhede, an unofficial subregion in warmer south, limestone-clay soils attracted particularly intensive planting of Baga.
Vineyards traditionally planted to high-trained, individually staked bush vines. However, recent plantings trellised with Guyot system (replacement-cane pruned) with VSP most common.

Question 28

Varieties. and winemaking.

Answer 28

Reds 2/3. Baga dominant black grape. High acidity and tannins with M body and cranberry, cherry and plum, can be astringent when young but softer and more complex with bottle ageing.
Throughout 20th century, Baga grown at high yields and sold to co-operatives; lacked fruit concentration and were unpleasantly astringent. Valued for its fresh acidity, significant amount Baga grown at high yields also sold, and still is, for Mateus Rosé. last 30 years, private companies focus on quality. Greater understanding of how to treat Baga in vineyard and winery led to very good and outstanding wines.
late ripening and productive, meaning careful site selection and limiting yields required for full ripeness. Warmest sites often those with south facing aspects and protected from cool north winds by eucalyptus and pine forests. Baga also thought to ripen best on limestone-clay soils which provide optimum balance of water retention and drainage. These light-coloured soils (especially in Cantanhede, whose vineyards strewn with white limestone pebbles and rocks) also reflect solar energy onto vines, aiding ripening. By comparison, sandy soils too dry and often better suited to varieties listed below. Green harvesting may carried out to enhance ripening (fruit removed sometimes used in sparkling wines, relatively common here).
Traditionally, Baga wines fermented on stems, contributed to reputation best drunk after long ageing in bottle. Most modern producers de-stem, although a return using proportion whole bunch or adding back proportion of stems to ferment. This can give a fresher fruit and enhance aromas (whole bunch) or give greater structure (use of stems) for wines designed to undergo long ageing. Fermentation vessels mixed from stainless steel tanks to open concrete vats to traditional lagares. Maturation most commonly carried out in large barrels (500–650 L) French oak. Traditional producers still use large toneis often made from Portuguese oak or Brazilian hardwood. Others who choose to mature wines in large vessels using foudres made from French, Italian or Austrian oak.
DOC also permits range of other Portuguese varieties including Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen and Camarate (a local variety producing full-bodied, M tannin wines with red fruit). It also permits some international varieties such as CS and Merlot, which well-suited to maritime climate and soils drain efficiently. These are often used in a blend with Baga to soften tannin and bring more body.
Wines labelled Baga Clássico must contain min. 50% Baga, and min. 85% any blend of Baga, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Jaen and Camarate. Black grapes may also used for rosé.

Question 29

What is white wine like in Bairrada?

Answer 29

Maria Gomes (Fernão Pires), Bical, Arinto and Cercial. Maria Gomes most planted white variety. Early ripening, favourable in Bairrada’s damp climate, can produce high yields. citrus and floral aromas.
Bical also early ripening, peach and sometimes tropical fruit. Both can have M (+) acidity if picked relatively early, lose acidity quickly if left on longer. Arinto and Cercial both have apple and citrus flavours and may used in blends to add acidity. Number of international varieties allowed including SB and Chardonnay. Inexpensive wines usually sourced from parts with sandy soils and fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel bottling soon after. Mid-priced and premium wines often sourced from parts with clay-limestone soils and may fermented and matured for short time in oak. Whites: good with a few very good. Significant producers - Quinta das Bágeiras and Filipa Pato & William Wouters.
Bairrada is also lead producer of traditional method sparkling wines in Portugal, 10% production. Both local grapes and Chardonnay and PN are used.

Question 30

Wine business.

Answer 30

Small group of producers, called Baga Friends, grouped together promote high-quality wines entirely from Baga.
local VR, Beira Atlântico, boundaries extend beyond Bairrada therefore can be used by producers who have vineyards outside DOC. Others, notably Luis Pato and Filipa Pato, have used Vinho Regional label because, although vineyards fall within Bairrada DOC , they objected to extension of DOC to international varieties.

Question 31

Introduction to Alentejo DOC.

Answer 31

Spanish border to east and Algarve’s mountains to south.
DOC, Alentejo, 8 non-contiguous sub- regions. Covering same land, Vinho de Talha DOC introduced in 2010 for wines fermented on skins in talha (amphora), a traditional method undergoing a renaissance.
Vinho Regional, Alentejano, commonly used by producers sourcing grapes from outside 8 sub-regions of the DOCs.

Question 32

What’s the climate and grape growing like in Alentejo?

Answer 32

Mediterranean climate, hot dry summers and mild winters; most inland parts have most extreme temperatures. rainfall - 500 mm in south to 800 mm in north, mainly in autumn and winter. With long dry weather, drip irrigation widely used.
Landscape generally plains and gentle slopes though there are mountains in north, south and east. Wide range soils, including granite, schist limestone with textures range from sand to clay.
Most trained and trellised to double cordon with VSP. Replacement-cane systems gradually declining, due to greater need for skilled labour during pruning; Alentejo is one of most sparsely populated areas of Portugal.
Comprises 8 sub-regions with varying microclimates and soils.
Northernmost sub-regions in Alto (Upper) Alentejo are less hot and dry. Within this part , sub-region of Portalegre has vineyards over 800 m, altitude together with more northerly location means it’s cooler, producing wines with fresher fruit and higher acidities. Unlike most of Alentejo, Portalegre’s vineyards tend to be small and retains significant number old field blend vineyards.

Question 33

Grape varieties and winemaking.

Answer 33

Wide range grapes permitted in DOC. For white and reds, single varietal are exception rather than rule. Black varieties (75% plantings). Key black varieties: Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, often as a blend. Harvesting time important for Aragonez; early ripening, if left on vine can become extra ripe, and thought best grows in cooler areas.
Alicante Bouschet is red-fleshed contributing deep colour, acidity, tannins, red and black berry to blends.
Trincadeira very susceptible to rot but grows well in dry climate in Alentejo. Tends to produce high yields, need to be limited if it is to fully ripen its grapes reliably. M tannins and acidity and blackberry and spice flavours.
Touriga Nacional sometimes used in blend with one or more varieties, bringing tannin and acidity.
Some international varieties also permitted, Syrah is most commonly used;
CS seems to be waning whilst plantings of Petit Verdot (contributes colour, spice and tannin), are increasing. Wines from inexpensive and fruity for early consumption to super-premium with concentrated fruit flavours, spice from maturation in new oak and structure to age for a decade or more. Significant producers - Cartuxa and Mouchão.
Roupeiro is most planted white variety. Retains acidity well and is susceptible to rot, make it well suited to the warm, dry Alentejo. In youth, its wines have citrus and stone fruit, but can lose primary flavours quickly with age.
Arinto (Pedernã in Vinho Verde) also grown and used in blends for its ability to retain acidity.
Antão Vez is tolerant of drought so well suited to Alentejo’s dry climate, made in range of styles including early picked fresh wines; later picked, fuller- bodied wines (often oaked) with tropical fruits; and talha wines with evident skin contact influence. It can lack acidity in warmest sub-regions (unless picked early) therefore sometimes blended with grapes with higher acidity (eg, Roupeiro and Arinto).
Chardonnay and Viognier also permitted, with Alvarinho on the increase. Whites may either fermented in stainless steel for early-consumption, or in barrels for greater texture and longer ageing. Good to very good, with most inexpensive to mid-priced.

Question 34

Wine business.

Answer 34

Larger sales in Portugal than any other region, 20% Portuguese exports. Main markets : Brazil, Angola, USA, Switzerland and Canada.
larger land holdings. With high sunshine hours, dry summers, relatively flat topography and expansive plains and estates, Alentejo seen as well suited to cost-effective, high-volume, mechanised viticulture and E.U. funding enabled this model. Vineyards tend to be relatively young and sizeable.
Proximity to Lisbon, strongly focused on wine tourism. Number of estates having designer wineries with large cellar doors and often producing range of other products on site such as olive oil and Iberian ham, a model pioneered in 1990s by highly successful businessmen such as José Roquette of Esporão and João Portugal Ramos.

Question 35

What’s climate and grape growing like in Lisboa.

Answer 35

long, thin region runs from Lisbon in south to 150km further north. coastal mountain range, Serra de Montejunto, splits region into 2 distinct areas.
Western side runs alongside Atlantic coast, wet weather and strong winds make grape growing challenging, though number of producers attracted to these sites by climate and clay-limestone soils, wishing to make lighter- bodied, fresher styles. Eastern side more protected and better suited to riper, fuller- bodied wines.

Question 36

Grape varieties, winemaking and Denominations.

Answer 36

Wide range Portuguese and international varieties permitted in VR and DOCs. Since major restructuring followed Portugal’s accession to EU (switch from quantity to quality), this diverse region still finding its path. Relative newcomers Touriga Nacional and Aragonez and historic Arinto thought to be Portuguese varieties with highest potential for quality. Popular international varieties - Syrah, CS, PN, SB and Riesling.
Out of DOCs, Alenquer and Bucelas are best known, both on eastern side coastal mountains. Alenquer makes full- bodied reds in this sheltered location often from Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, though many black and white varieties are grown. Good to very good and usually mid-priced, with a few premium and super-premium wines.
Bucelas, a small historic region, makes high acid wines from Arinto, must be at least 75% blend. Some fermented in stainless steel, bottled soon after. In others, lees contact and/or oak may used to enhance texture . Good or very good, inexpensive to mid-priced.
Colares and Carcavelos are much smaller coastal DOCs of great historic importance, almost entirely subsumed by Lisbon’s suburbs. Cool, foggy coastal climate and ungrafted old bush vines on deep, phylloxera-free sandy soils of Colares are particular interest to new winemakers that started making fresh, high acidity red and whites from rarely-seen, local grapes.

Question 37

Wine business.

Answer 37

Majority production from Lisboa VR, and, with its history production of inexpensive wines for sale to Portuguese colonies, further significant proportion still sold without geographical indication. Although there are also 9 DOCs, producers often choose to use VR, regulations allow more flexibility and name ‘Lisboa’ is more recognisable than smaller DOCs.
With quality improving as re-structured vineyards maturing and producers gain experience in vineyard and winery, more wines being certified (DOC or VR). 40% certified wine made by one producer, Casa Santos Lima, makes inexpensive and mid-priced brands and private labels for retailers, mostly for export market. Significant producers - Quinta de Chocapalha and Quinta do Monte d’Oiro.

Question 38

Summarise Península de Setúbal.

Answer 38

Between estuaries of Tejo and Sado rivers, south of Lisbon.
Mediterranean, hot, dry summers, mild, wet winters. Mountains in south provide cooler sites at higher altitudes on clay-limestone soils. Much land flat and sandy, more clay and schist further inland.
2 DOCs; Palmela DOC and Setúbal DOC, the latter for sweet, fortified wines from Moscatel varieties.
Palmela DOC mainly produces reds. Must made from at least 67% Castelão (Periquita). It produces wines deep in colour and full-bodied with red berry fruit, often matured in oak, adds hints of spice. For concentrated, age- worthy wines, Castelão best grown in warm, sandy vineyards on plains; on limestone slopes, tends to produce lighter wines more suited early drinking. Variety of black Portuguese and international varieties also permitted; CS and Syrah better suited to cooler, limestone and clay slopes. Whites also produced; main varieties are Fernão Pires, Moscatel and Arinto, large range Portuguese and international varieties permitted. Good with some very good examples, and mid-priced.
Península de Setúbal VR makes larger area including peninsula and land further south, encompasses DOCs. Allows greater flexibility; eg, reds can be made from range of Portuguese and international varieties and no minimum limit for Castelão.
2 large producers have been major modernising influences - José Maria da Fonseca (created highly successful Lancers and Periquita brands) and Bacalhôa Vinhos.

Question 39

Summarise Tejo.

Answer 39

Named after Tejo river (River Tagus) that runs through it. In past, production focused on volume and vineyards on fertile riverbanks able to provide high yields. Following accession to EU, substantial vineyards on fertile soils grubbed up. New plantings of higher quality grapes focused on less fertile soils to north and south of region.
Name of a VR and DOC; VR covering wider area, permitting wider varieties and larger maximum yield, producing more wine than DOC. Also considerable production without a geographical indication.
Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters (750 mm). However, there are variances in climate and soil. North slightly higher rainfall with clay-limestone and schist soils and mainly produces reds. Around river, fertile alluvial soils mean vine vigour needs to be carefully managed. This area mainly produces whites. South is driest and hottest with poor sandy soils; it produces red and whites.
DOC and VR both allow range of Portuguese and international varieties, most common being Trincadeira, Castelão, Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Syrah and CS for reds, and Fernão Pires, Arinto, Alvarinho, SB and Chardonnay for whites. Majority made in fruity style for early consumption; Acceptable to good quality, inexpensive to mid-priced, growing number of higher quality, premium wines starting to be produced. Significant producers - Quinta da Alorna and Fiuza & Bright.