WSET D3 - Canada Flashcards
Summarise the history of Canadian wine industry.
Majority of the country is unsuitable for viticulture due to high latitude and extreme temperature. Majority production from two provinces, Ontario and British Columbia, although small amounts also produced in Nova Scotia and Quebec. In fact, vast majority grapes grown in Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula and British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.
In international market, Canada most famous for its Icewine. Began in 1970s with German immigrants wanting to continue their tradition Eiswein, Canada is now world’s largest producer. However, Icewine represents only small percentage production so Canada is looking to build international reputation for high quality dry and sparkling wines.
Commercial wine production dates back to early 19th century. Initially produced from American hybrids and later V. labrusca grapes, which could withstand harsh Canadian winters. In early 20th century, these were joined by French hybrids, most notably Vidal Blanc.
The first plantings V. vinifera date back to late 1950s and winemakers only began shifting focus away from hybrids in late 1980s. This push for quality was prompted, firstly by a US-Canada trade deal opened up Canadian wine market to American imports and removed subsidies from Canadian growers, secondly, by introduction of an appellation system, Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA), in Ontario and British Columbia
Although experienced Prohibition 1916 to 1927, unlike USA, wine industry was not adversely affected. Wine was exempt from prohibition and wineries actually increased. However, when most Canada’s provinces repealed Prohibition laws in 1920s, a system of provincial liquor boards and government-run monopolies was introduced, still strictly control sale and distribution of alcohol in Canada today.
What is the climate like here.
Cool climate. Canada’s 2 main regions are on opposite sides, by 4,000km, even sub-regions within them have diverse and distinct conditions.
Ontario and inland areas of British Columbia (most of its vineyards situated) have extreme continental climate. In summer, daytime regularly exceed 30°C, in winter often drop below –20°C. As a result, most planted near lakes moderate temperatures. During winter, lake effect reduces risk of winter freeze. In spring, water heats up slowly delaying budbreak usually after risk of spring frosts has passed (though occasional frosts late in spring can be issue). It then retains summer warmth into autumn, extending growing season. Lakes also cause higher humidity, raising risk of fungal disease.
During winter when moisture from lakes evaporates meets ambient cold air, it produces precipitation in form of snow. Usually enough snow cover to protect vines and insulate from cold air, although in coldest areas, eg Prince Edward County, winter freeze still a concern. Climate change causing increasingly unpredictable winters and some years there is minimal protective snow cover.
Drought is regular concern in inland regions of British Columbia, lie in rain shadow of two mountain ranges but can also an issue in hotter, drier years in Ontario.
41° and 51° N, towards northerly limit for viticulture. Northerly latitude, especially in British Columbia, makes for a shorter growing season but compensated by longer daylight hours in summer than more southerly regions, eg, in USA.
Vineyard management.
Canadian viticulture is very advanced. Producers have access to all most up-to-date technology and vineyard management techniques.
Careful canopy management is crucial in humid areas around lakes: as open as possible to improve air flow and reduce risk of fungal diseases. VSP most common, although some experimenting smaller scale other systems (Geneva Double Curtain, Scott Henry and Lyre).
In hotter, drier areas such as Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, pests and diseases less concern and growers increasingly adopting sustainable and organic practices. Main pests are insects such as moths, mealy bugs and leafhoppers, birds and animals (deer, even bears).
Growing season shorter than many traditional regions. Budbreak late as early May with harvest starting in late August. Due to different varieties grown and styles, harvest can continue into November (and into following February for Icewine). Weather during harvest can be unpredictable, rain and autumn frosts - significant vintage variation.
Where drought is concern (Okanagan Valley), installed irrigation systems with drip irrigation most common.
Areas where winters can be bitterly cold (Prince Edward County), some bury vines to protect. However is time-consuming and labour- intensive therefore significantly add costs. As a result, some wineries experimenting with geotextiles, fabrics draped over vines help protect against winter damage. In Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys, winters are not so bitter, growers protect vines by pushing up level of soil around grafts to protect them.
Grape varieties.
Hybrid varieties dominated much history. Still significant plantings in Ontario; However very small amounts in British Columbia following a vine pull scheme late 1980s.
Most important hybrids is Vidal, a French hybrid produces majority Icewine. can withstand Canada’s harsh winters and its high acidity (not so high as Riesling), slow ripening and thick skins make it particularly suitable for sweet late-harvest wines and Icewine, even tend not to have aromatic complexity and ageing potential of finest Riesling Icewines. Whether dry or sweet, produces high acidity with stone and tropical fruit such as peach and mango.
Since late 1980s, significant increase in number of vinifera, particular Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, CF and CS), Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and aromatic white such as Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Some also experimenting with Syrah, Viognier and Malbec.
Styles vary quite significantly between cooler climate of Ontario and hotter areas of British Columbia, such as southern Okanagan. However, due to cooler temperatures or wide diurnal range, all tend to have high acidity.
Winemaking.
Icewine:
World’s largest producer of Icewine, Ontario accounts vast majority. Bitterly cold winters mean grapes left on vine will routinely freeze. Grapes must harvested at –8°C or below. Some harvest by hand, but with difficulty sourcing pickers to work at night in very cold temperatures, many now machine harvest.
Freezing concentrates sugars. Very high sugar in must often mean fermentation stops naturally at 9–11% abv and leaving 200– 250 g/L residual sugar. Varieties used should have high natural acidity to balance sweetness. Best have intense stone and tropical fruits (peach, mango). Most Icewine is made from Vidal, although most complex, well-balanced examples tend to be produced from Riesling. Other varieties used, such as CF, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay.
Often fermented and stored in stainless steel, however oak maturation sometimes used to add flavours (vanilla, clove, etc.).
Very expensive to produce. Yields very low, as little as 10% still wine harvest. Partly due to grapes dehydrating also because significant grapes can damaged or lost due to bad weather, rot and animals while waiting for temperatures drop to –8°C or below. As a result, Icewine commands premium and super-premium prices.
Wine law and regulations.
‘Icewine’ is a trade mark owned by the Canadian Vintners Association, which works to promote and protect the category. Due to its value to the Canadian wine industry, there are rigorous standards of production, which have been incorporated into the VQA system
(see Wine Law and Regulations) in both Ontario and British Columbia. Canadian federal law states that only wine that is made exclusively from grapes naturally frozen on the vine can be labelled as Icewine. It must be made exclusively from grapes grown in Canada and either from vinifera grapes or Vidal, harvesting and winemaking procedures: for example, minimum sugar levels are prescribed (which are higher than for German Eiswein) and artificial concentration or addition of sugars is prohibited.
Summarise Ontario.
Largest wine-producing province. 41° and 44°N, roughly equivalent range from Central Italy to Bordeaux although with significantly different climate.
Mainly planted on or near shores of 2 Great Lakes (Erie and Ontario) moderate extremes of Ontario’s continental climate; moving further from lakes, winters too cold for vinifera to survive. Cooling influence of lakes in summer means wines tend to M (+) to H acidity; however, thanks to long sunshine hours during growing season, ripe fruit flavours.
Wide variety soils (clay and sand, and to lesser extent gravel and rocks) and areas around lakes have high concentration limestone from an ancient seabed exposed over long period of glacial activity.
Produces 90% Canada’s Icewine and Vidal most widely planted. Amongst still, non-late harvest VQA wines, proportion of red and whites approximately equal, with small proportion rose (4%). Varieties can ripen in cool climates and survive cold winter conditions dominate. 2 most planted white vinifera are Riesling and Chardonnay. Ontario Riesling typically high acidity with citrus, peach and floral aromas. Dry to sweet. Chardonnay tend to have M (+) to high acidity, with apple and citrus fruit typical of cooler climate, although stone fruit and even tropical fruit can found from warmer sites or vintages. CF is most planted black variety, elegant, fresh wines with red plum, red berry, green pepper and herbal characteristics. Many age oak for greater texture and complexity. Often used in Bordeaux-style blends also to excellent Icewine. Merlot also used in Bordeaux-style blends; on its own, soft, M-bodied reds with M tannins and dark fruit. Although plantings still small, Pinot Noir also showing great potential, producing M bodied wines, with red cherry and strawberry. Gamay Noir also increase producing mainly light-bodied wines with fresh, red fruit, although some making a richer, oak-aged style.
Ontario was first province adopt VQA legislation in 1988. 3 primary appellations: Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County. If appears on label, at least 85% grapes must from that appellation and rest must sourced from elsewhere in Ontario. Good to very good with some outstanding, dry wines typically mid to premium priced. Significant producers - Inniskillin and Peller Estates.
Summarise Niagara Peninsula.
Largest in Ontario (80% vineyards). Diverse area, stretching from shore of Lake Ontario up to Niagara Escarpment, a north-facing limestone bluff rises to 100m above neighbouring Lake Ontario. Various river valleys cut down from escarpment to lake. Wide variety soils and microclimates allowing range of styles. Majority situated on benches part way up escarpment and slopes just above them, although some situated on plain directly next to lake and some situated above escarpment.
Together, Lake Ontario and Niagara Escarpment have major influence on climate. Ontario is one of deepest of Great Lakes - takes longer to warm up in spring, longer to cool down in autumn. Lake and escarpment aid air circulation.
During winter, land away from lake cools quickly. Cold air above this land flows down slope of escarpment under gravity. At same time relatively warm air over lake rises and flows inland. As cold air flows down escarpment, it is replaced by warm air. The lake and escarpment provide warming air flow in winter and cooling air flow in summer, prolonging growing season and reducing risk of fungal disease and frosts. Escarpment also protects from prevailing south- westerly winds which can be bitterly cold in winter.
On top of ridge above escarpment, away from influence of lake, climate more continental with warm summer and cold winters.
Niagara Peninsula has 2 regional appellations: Niagara Escarpment and Niagara- on-the-Lake. Wines labelled with these must contain at least 85% grapes from that appellation - remainder from elsewhere in Niagara Peninsula. It also has number of smaller sub-appellations within and outside borders of 2 regional appellations. Wines labelled with sub-appellation grapes must entirely from that sub-appellation.
Summarise Niagara Escarpment.
Covers benches and gentle, northern slopes of escarpment (but not land nearer lake nor plateau on top). The combination of altitude and cooling lake breezes makes this coolest part of Peninsula, resulting high acidity. Early ripening Chardonnay and Pinot Noir make very good quality wines. Cabernet Franc and Riesling also do well here.
Summarise Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Large area of relatively flat land along shores of Lake Ontario, directly west Niagara River. Overall, slightly warmer than slopes of escarpment; proximity to lake reduces drop in night-time temperatures and means autumns stay warmer longer. Whilst main grapes still Chardonnay, Riesling, PN and CF, they slightly riper and fruitier than Niagara Escarpment and this area better suited to Bordeaux style red blends.
Summarise Lake Erie North Shore.
Stretches along gently-sloping shoreline of Lake Erie and includes number of islands, including Pelee Island. Vineyards almost completely surrounded by water, moderating temperatures. Lake Erie is shallowest of Great Lakes therefore warms up more quickly in spring but cools down quickly in autumn. As a result, winter freeze more concern than Niagara.
Still warmest of Ontario’s vineyard areas as is located in far south-western corner - Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon usually ripen fully. Wines tend to show more ripe fruit but often less structure than from Niagara Peninsula.
Summarise Prince Edward County.
Eastern end Lake Ontario, Ontario’s most northerly appellation. Almost entirely surrounded by water and fully exposed to winter winds coming over Lake Ontario from west. Due to latitude, winter freeze is a regular concern forcing producers protect vines over winter either by burying or covering. Vineyard area situated on a broad limestone plateau with a stony topsoil conducts heat and radiates it at night, aiding ripening in this very cool region. Early-ripening Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are most common varieties, both red and whites are characterised by their extremely high acidity in all but warmest vintages.
Summarise British Columbia.
Opposite side to Ontario, can be split into 2 very distinct areas: a small number vineyards close to Pacific coast with cool, maritime climate but main area is 400km inland, sheltered from maritime influence by several mountain ranges, Okanagan Valley is largest appellation.
Further north (48°–51°) than Ontario. Growing season shorter but, during growing season days longer. Inland in particular, long, hot summer days and cool nights - wide diurnal range - ripe fruit, high acidity.
Late 1980s, a radical vine pull scheme targeting hybrid varieties reduced British Columbia’s vineyard area by 2/3. Only small amounts hybrids remain (notably Vidal for Icewine); Significant new plantings wide range international varieties.
Merlot is most planted black grape, more full-bodied than Ontario, with higher tannin, higher alcohol and riper fruit. Pinot Noir also riper and fruitier with relatively high tannins, though in coolest sites can produce elegant wines and plantings increasing rapidly. Where can ripen fully, Cabernet Sauvignon produces intensely fruity high tannins and acidity with ageing potential, and more consistency than Ontario.
Most planted white grape is Pinot Gris, usually dry or off-dry style, M bodied, M to H acidity and flavours of melon and pear. However, some in lighter Pinot Grigio style. Variety styles Chardonnay but best tend to be M-bodied with riper, stone fruit than Ontario. VQA wines typically good to very good with some outstanding typically mid to premium priced.
Significant producers - Le Vieux Pin and Mission Hill.
Number of appellations created within VQA system. If on label, 95% grapes must from that appellation, remainder from elsewhere in British Columbia.
Summarise Okanagan Valley.
85% British Columbia’s plantings. Over 250km in length, wide range climates from cool, northern end (one of most northerly wine-producing areas in world) to hot desert conditions in south. Number of sub-appellations created to recognise particular characteristics of various sub-regions.
Majority soils are glacial deposits, particularly loams, increasingly sandy in south. As a result, irrigation essential.
Valley is characterised by chain of lakes play important role in moderating hot summer and cold winter. Most important deep Okanagan Lake occupies northern half vineyard area. These lakes are much smaller than Great Lakes in Ontario therefore have much smaller moderating effect. Lakes also important for irrigation, essential as rainfall is between 300 mm in south, 400 mm in north. However dry conditions mean pests and disease not much problem and organic viticulture is on increase.
Extreme continental climate. Winters are cold, not so cold to bury vines. Spring frosts are concern and vineyards generally planted on mid slopes to reduce risk. Growing season relatively short but days are long. Summers can be hot – in warmer parts, can hit 40°C despite lake effect. However, due to altitude (300–600m) nights are cool - wide diurnal range.
Northern end valley and on east-facing slopes shaded from afternoon sun, conditions more suited to cooler-climate varieties, such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.
Hotter, southern areas valley better suited to black varieties. Merlot, CF, CS and even Syrah can all ripen fully to produce full-bodied wines with ripe fruit often high alcohol whilst retaining good balance of acidity.
Summarise Similkameen Valley.
West of southern end Okanagan Valley, a rugged, rocky valley with narrow strip of agricultural land along Similkameen River. High mountains on either side funnel constant winds down the valley. Climate similar to Okanagan Valley except, without any lakes to moderate, summer days very hot and mountains also trap heat in valley later into evening. However, once temperatures drop, due to altitude (400–500 m), nights are cold, even wider diurnal range than most Okanagan Valley.
Main varieties are Merlot, PN, CS and Chardonnay.
