WSET D3 - Greece

Question 1

Summarise the history of Greece wine.

Answer 1

• Height of Greek wine culture - ‘Golden Age’ (500–300 BCE). Greek empire spread around Mediterranean, taking its wines (best in world at time), and wine culture.
  introduced some first wine laws to protect certain wines from particular locations, prevent fraud and raise taxes. Herbs, spices, flowers, honey and oils etc. was added to protect from oxidation and mask off-flavours. Pine resin continues to be used for Retsina.
• 2nd century BCE became part of Roman Empire. Introduced wines from elsewhere in Empire, prevented Greece from exporting. The decline continued under Byzantine Empire then Ottoman Empire that wine was only produced for consumption around village where grapes grown.
• Modern Greek state established 1830, following revolution of 1821. The retreating Ottomans destroyed most agricultural land and then two Balkan wars, two World Wars and a civil war prevented recovery of Greek wine industry. In addition, many that survived end of 19th century were destroyed by phylloxera (appeared in Macedonia in 1898).
• Most 20th century, seen as a source of cheap, often poorly made wine, in particular Retsina, mainly by co- operatives and handful large companies began to emerge.
  By 1970s, some smaller producers bottling wines even selling outside local area. 1980s a rapid rise in small quality- minded producers: some previously worked for larger companies but many were people who benefited from growth of Greek economy and now wanted to make wine. This led to creation of modern Greek wine culture estate-produced, higher- quality wines. Most Greek wine still consumed domestically but financial crisis 2008 led to significant drop in consumption and forced producers look to export market. Wine exports increased significantly last decade from a very low base, foreign consumers begin to discover Greece’s wide indigenous varieties.

Question 2

What’s the climate like in Greece?

Answer 2

34° - 42°N. Generally Mediterranean.
long, hot summers (usually over 30 and reaching 45°C some years) short, mild winters.
Inland - increasingly continental: summer even hotter winter can drop below freezing.
Spring frost can be problem in northern Greece, such as Amyndeon.
Very mountainous country and many best planted at altitude moderate temperatures. Some places such as Amyndeon and Mantinia can be cool enough that grapes not always reach full ripeness, depending on variety. Few flatter areas, most notably plains of eastern Macedonia and central Greece are hotter, although towards coast sea is another moderating factor.
Rainfall levels vary: Santorini exceptionally dry but averages in most other regions 400-700 mm. Little or no rain during growing season, except mountainous north and west. Water stress is common issue and irrigation often essential, where water resources are available.

Question 3

What’s the main threat of the vineyard area?

Answer 3

Strong, onshore winds especially on Cyclades islands, such as Santorini, are constant threat.
Can stop photosynthesis, interrupting flowering and berry-set, delaying ripening, destroy unprotected vines. Very dry and increase water stress.

Question 4

What are the soil types found here?

Answer 4

Wide range (limestone to volcanic soils) even within small areas, numerous soil types can be found.
Apart from fertile plains, tend to be low in fertility. Yields traditionally low.

Question 5

Scale?

Answer 5

Vineyards tend to be very small (average just over 0.5 ha) Many sell grapes to larger producers or co-operatives or produce small volumes sell locally. Size with tricky terrain, means many still worked by hand.

Question 6

Summarise the evolution of Greek viticulture.

Answer 6

Mixture of traditional and modern. Larger companies began modernising in 1960s & 1970s, passing on their expertise to smaller growers and producers who supply them. Industry really began move forward when Greece joined EU in 1981 and gained access to funding. Many new breed of producers studied viticulture and gained experience in other parts of the world; however still recognise retaining some more traditional methods create distinctive wines.

Question 7

Is irrigation permitted here?

Answer 7

Yes. Mostly for international varieties such as CS and Merlot, as number of local varieties developed higher tolerances of drought. Water-holding capacity of soil in an area is also key influence.
Always drip irrigation.

Question 8

Is organic and biodynamic viticulture used here?

Answer 8

Hot, dry conditions - suitable for organic and biodynamic viticulture. Many using organic practices for centuries; use of chemicals relatively recent occurrence.
Growing number sought organic certification and experimenting with biodynamic techniques.

Question 9

What are training and pruning like here.

Answer 9

Majority trellised; usually cordon-trained with VSP. In some places, specific trellis and pruning systems developed over centuries to suit local conditions, in particular Santorini to cope with high winds and very low rainfall.

Question 10

Why are international grape varieties increasingly planted?

Answer 10

International varieties only began in late 1980s, prompted by a demand in domestic market also by a concern on export, that foreign consumers would be unwilling to buy wines they not heard of and struggled to pronounce. Whilst some made successful single-varietal wines from Chardonnay, SB, CS, Merlot, and Syrah, these often used in blends with local varieties to give consumers something recognisable on label. Number of these blends particularly successful: eg: SB with Assyrtiko and Merlot with Xinomavro.

Question 11

What are the leading varieties?

Answer 11

Savatiano
Roditis
Agiorgitiko
Xinomavro
Assyrtiko
CS
Merlot
Syrah
Moschofilero

Question 12

Describe Savatiano.

Answer 12

Most planted. Drought resistant.
Mainly used to produce large volumes inexpensive wine also most common ingredient in Retsina. However, reputation starting to rise with some very good from low- yielding, dry-farmed bush vines (subtle citrus, pear, stone fruit as well as a nutty character with age).

Question 13

Describe Roditis.

Answer 13

Second most planted. Similar to Moschofilero is pink skinned. High yields made it popular and like Savatiano, mainly for inexpensive wine and blending ingredient for Retsina. Reputation also improving thanks to higher quality wines made at altitude and from old vines (eg: Peloponnese). Best examples are M bodied with high acidity and ripe fruit, such as melon.

Question 14

Describe Assyrtiko.

Answer 14

Best-known and most prized indigenous white grape .
Originally from Santorini, now widely planted on mainland, highly adaptable to different conditions.
Retains high acidity when ripe (even hottest conditions). High acidity balances typically high alcohol means wines can age well; also ideal for lusciously sweet wines, such as Vinsanto from Santorini.
Dry Assyrtiko - citrus, stone and tropical fruit, often with a strong smoky or flint characteristic. Some producers make wines where at least part of blend aged in oak, often leading to a fuller body and different profile of flavours (less intense primary, more secondary characteristics).

Question 15

Describe Moschofilero.

Answer 15

Prized for quality potential, produces aromatic wines with citrus, flowers (particularly rose petals) and spices notes, similar to Muscat. Wines are high acid, light-bodied, relatively low alcohol (around 12%). Pink-skinned and many have a pink tinge; some make a rosé using extended skin contact. Mainly planted in Mantinia in Peloponnese.

Question 16

Describe Malagousia.

Answer 16

20 years ago almost extinct. Quickly established reputation for high-quality wines, although plantings still very small, spreading rapidly throughout Greece. M acidity and M body with complex and intense stone fruit and flowers. Grapes grown in cooler sites or picked early can have a herbal or herbaceous note. Wines may fermented in stainless steel, old oak or a proportion of new oak. Grown in most areas.
Also significant plantings various Muscat used for dry to lusciously sweet wines.

Question 17

Describe Agiorgitiko.

Answer 17

Most planted black variety, versatile, wide range wines from lighter, fruity early drinking to more complex, full-bodied age worthy style as well as high quality rosés and sweet wines. Reds - deeply coloured with M acidity, M to high soft tannins and M alcohol.
Ripe red fruit (although can become jammy if allowed extra ripe) and sweet spices. Often aged in oak, usually a proportion new. Mainly found in Peloponnese, highly regarded from PDO Nemea.

Question 18

Describe Xinomavro.

Answer 18

Most prized black variety. All over northern Greece but most famous in Naoussa (Northern Macedonia) Often likened Nebbiolo: in their youth can have unpleasantly high acidity and grippy tannins with aromas more vegetal than fruity. Pale-coloured and turn garnet rapidly.
Often benefit from long bottle ageing: best from lower-yielding vines and aged in oak, can age for decades, developing highly complex flowers, herbs, spices, leather and earthiness.
More recently, number of producers started producing wines more accessible in youth. Using riper grapes and less extraction, often aged in new oak. Some blend with Merlot to soften rough edges.

Question 19

How’s winemaking like in Greece?

Answer 19

Production fallen since 1990s.
Traditionally, grapes crushed by foot then fermented in old casks, mainly from oak or chestnut, then simply stopped up and wine left to mature for few months before drawn off and consumed. As with viticulture, has been significant modernisation, particularly since Greece’s accession to EU in 1981. Virtually all wineries now use modern presses, temperature control and stainless-steel vessels for fermentation. From late 1980s onwards, significant increase in use of new barriques first for reds then also for whites. Barrels mainly made from French oak, although American oak used too. Although still common, many now looking for more restrained oak.
Modern producers also returning to some more traditional winemaking practices, such as naturally-occurring yeast, shorter extraction even maturing wines in amphorae like Ancient Greeks. Others experimenting, eg, with lees contact for Assyrtiko and Malagousia.
There is also long tradition of sweet wines, often using sun-dried grapes. Both white and black varieties, with Muscat most widely used.

Question 20

Explain wine style Retsina.

Answer 20

Originally used to seal amphorae then used as an additive, probably for flavouring purposes.
Its modern-day popularity started in late 19th century, but with increased tourism to Greece after world wars, sales boomed in 1960s. Unfortunately, many made cheaply and badly. Resin often used to try and mask poor quality or even faulty wines (rarely successfully). However, high-quality examples, from ripe grapes using good-quality resin.
Throughout Greece but most from hot central plains.
Number of varieties, although Savatiano and Roditis most commonly used. Amount of resin used fallen over centuries as winemaking techniques improved. Resin usually added to must (in past added to wine) and wine is then left on lees for no more than a week after fermentation (in past often left much longer), both leading to a more subtle, integrated pine resin character.
Retsina now a legally-protected category with regulations ensure quality standards. Amount of resin can be added controlled and parameters for final product such as min. acidity and permitted alcohol are specified. Retsina does not comply with standard EU definition of wine as it is not made exclusively from grapes. However, has been granted special status as a ‘wine of appellation by tradition’ (OKP in Greek). Premium bottlings, often made with Assyrtiko, gradually helping to improve reputation .

Question 21

Wine law and regulations.

Answer 21

In line with rest of EU.
Equivalent PDO is POP. Individual PDOs lay down rules on grape growing and winemaking (eg: yields, varieties, PDO Naoussa also have ageing requirements). With exception of Muscat for sweet wines, PDO usually restricted to native varieties.
PGE (PGI). Less strict and international varieties may used.
Wines without a geographical indication labelled ‘Wines from Greece’. Mainly for high-volume brands, blended from more than one region and accounts 18% annual production.
A special category, OKP, for traditional products, most notably Retsina.

Question 22

Summarise Macedonia.

Answer 22

Northern border. Large region, wide range conditions from mountains in north and west to plains in east. In mountains, climate is continental, temperatures relatively cool - altitude. Rain throughout year (650–700 mm) Water supply less an issue than elsewhere. 2 leading PDOs, Naoussa and Amynteo.
On plains, climate warm and Mediterranean, in rain shadow of mountains therefore drier. Fertile soils ideal for higher-volume wines but there are also some good and very good wines produced in PGIs of Drama and Kavala.
Traditionally a red wine region. PDOs of Naoussa and Amynteo only 100% Xinomavro. Warmer, drier Drama Valley to east has strong reputation for high quality, full-bodied, modern style Bordeaux blends. There are also some whites of note: Chardonnay and SB at altitude and full-bodied ripe wines from popular Greek varieties such as Assyrtiko and Malagousia in Drama and Kavala.

Question 23

Summarise Naoussa.

Answer 23

South-eastern slopes of Mount Vermio (150 - 400m). Best sites sheltered from strong, cold winds from north and west but temperatures still relatively cool.
100% Xinomavro. High acidity and tannins, great complexity and potential to age for decades. Most mid-priced with a few premium, good to outstanding. Significant producers: Thymiopoulos Vineyards and Kir-Yianni.
Traditionally - aged in large old wooden vessels, giving pronounced spicy and meaty, rather than fruity, aromas. In 1990s, some started using new barriques, giving even firmer tannins, more body and oaky aromas, although many now reverted to more restrained style. Recent years, more modern style emerged, using riper fruit and either cold soaking or whole-bunch fermentation to produce a deeper-coloured less tannic wine.
Complex mixture of soils and microclimates based more on aspect and topography than altitude. Number of producers now making village or single-vineyard wines, highlight variations between different areas. Outside PDO, number of good quality rosés and red blends of Xinomavro with Merlot produced.

Question 24

Summarise Amynteo.

Answer 24

PDO Amynteo is on opposite, north-western side of Mount Vermio. Higher than Naoussa (570 - 750m) and northerly aspect means exposed to cold northerly winds, leading to cool summers and cold winters. Site selection crucial. Unusually for Greece, close to number of lakes without which temperatures would be more extreme. However, humidity is higher, increasing risk of rot, soil more fertile, care has to be taken to control yields otherwise can fail to ripen. some years, spring frost can be problem.
Unlike in Naoussa, rosé permitted. Due to cooler temperatures, Xinomavro from Amynteo usually lighter in body and lower in tannins, with best having distinctive floral quality. Generalisations are difficult: areas with sandy soils remained phylloxera-free, meaning significant old vines giving more concentrated wines, and, as in Naoussa, some now making a riper, more accessible style. Mid-priced, good to very good quality, though outstanding examples exist. Significant producers: Alpha Estate.
Some blend Xinomavro with Merlot and other varieties, but cannot be labelled as PDO wines.

Question 25

Summarise Peloponnese.

Answer 25

The peninsula forms southern part Greek mainland. Largest vineyard plantings (30%) despite many suitable vineyard sites planted with grapes for drying. Also has largest number PDO (Nemea and Mantinia).
Very mountainous with mainly poor, rocky soils. Despite southerly latitude, temperatures moderated by altitude. Only small area flatter land, including plains around Patra (hotter and soil more fertile). prevailing easterly winds bring rain from ocean but, due to mountains, rainfall levels drop further east across peninsula.
Apart from PDO Nemea, Peloponnese dominated by white grapes, particular Moschofilero and Roditis. Outside PDOs, large volumes inexpensive wines produced, especially from Roditis and Agiorgitiko. However, some good and very good wines also produced . PGI wines also made from international varieties, sometimes blended with local varieties.

Question 26

Summarise Nemea.

Answer 26

Close to Corinth Canal, separates peninsula from rest of mainland. PDO: reds - 100% Agiorgitiko. Both dry and sweet (rare) permitted. In 1990s, an increase use of new barriques, although more subtle use of oak now returning. Also, a new style emerged, using semi-carbonic maceration enhance fruity flavours and keep tannin relatively low. Acceptable and good quality to very good and outstanding age worthy wines that can command premium or even super-premium prices. Significant producers: Gaia Wines and Tselepos.
Climate is Mediterranean. Majority rain falls in autumn and winter but significant differences on amount year on year (400 mm - 900 mm),impact on yields and quality in different area and year (eg, dry years vineyards on clay better able to cope than more free-draining soils).
Nemea usually divided into 3 zones by altitude.
Lowest zone on valley floor (230 - 400m) hottest and most fertile soil. Grapes ripen easily and usually for inexpensive wines but also high-quality sweet wines.
Cooler middle zone (450 - 650 m), considered to be best for quality wines. Poor, free-draining soils naturally limit yields and cooler days slow sugar accumulation while flavours and tannins ripen. Range of microclimates (different altitudes and aspects) and specific soil types. There is talk of introducing a cru system to differentiate between different sites.
Highest zone (650–1,000 m), Agiorgitiko can struggle to ripen fully in cooler temperatures and cool clay soils. Fresh red fruit , high acidity and potentially harsh tannins meant mainly used for rosé (outside PDO). However, producers starting to explore it’s potential for fresher styles reds with higher acidity.

Question 27

Summarise mantinia.

Answer 27

South and west Nemea, PDO Mantinia (a plateau starting at 600m). Despite its southerly latitude, altitude makes this one of coolest areas. Also has one of longest growing seasons with harvest usually starting in October and sometimes even in November. Coldest years, grapes do not reach full ripeness.
PDO for whites only. Moschofilero must make up at least 85% blend, although many highest quality 100% Moschofilero. Relatively low temperatures give wines high acidity, low to M alcohol, M (–) to M body, floral and slightly spicy aromas. Stainless steel to retain freshness and tend to be drunk when young. Mid-priced and good to very good quality. Significant producers- Boutari and Seméli Estate.

Question 28

Summarise The Islands.

Answer 28

The best known lie in Aegean Sea to east of mainland. Aegean known for its strong winds and many islands have very low rainfall and rocky soils with poor water retention. Difficult conditions make viticulture on Greek islands relatively expensive and many growers unable to resist lucrative opportunity to sell their land for tourist developments.
Most famous is Santorini, in Cyclades island group in southern part Aegean. Other islands of note include Paros, also in Cyclades, has number PDOs for still and sweet wines; Tinos, another island in Cyclades, Samos and Lemnos in northern Aegean, famous for sweet Muscat; and Crete, gaining reputation for high-quality wines from indigenous and international varieties.

Question 29

Summarise Santorini.

Answer 29

Lies on a volcano: during its last major eruption in 1500BCE, much island collapsed leaving a central submerged crater (known as a caldera).
Winds particularly strong. To provide shelter, vines traditionally trained low to ground in a basket shape, usually in a hollow. Each year, vines are woven around previous year’s growth; when a basket gets too bulky, every 20 years or so, it is cut off and a new basket started from a shoot. This requires 4 times labour of conventional trellis systems. Therefore some experiments with VSP in more sheltered areas.
Very little rainfall throughout year and growing season can be completely dry. Normally, only moisture comes from fog which rises from caldera every morning and traditional training system helps trap this moisture. Vine densities very low: less than 2,500 vines per hectare.
Phylloxera not been a problem, some vines have roots and trunks over 400 years old.
Volcanic soil very infertile along with low rainfall, contributes to low vigour and low yielding vines. PDO Santorini has lowest permitted yields in Greece: 60hl/ ha, in practice lower than that, as low as 15hl/ha from oldest vines.
PDO: white wines only (dry and sweet). Dry wines at least 75% Assyrtiko , sweet wines at least 51% Assyrtiko; however many best are single varietals. Dry wines usually have high acidity, M to high alcohol and a distinctive smoky characteristic, alongside Assyrtiko’s fruit aromas. Highest quality can age for a decade in bottle developing honey, toasty character. Most Assyrtiko fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel or other neutral vessels to retain fruit. Producers increasingly experimenting with oak ageing and lees contact to give more body and complexity. Santorini’s dry Assyrtikos tend to be good to outstanding, mid to premium priced.
Santorini also famous for sweet wine, Vinsanto , made from late-harvested grapes dried in the sun for up to 2 weeks. Vinsanto must aged for at least 2 years in oak before release but many age it for longer, often in larger casks which not fully filled in order to encourage oxidation. Wines often have flavours of raisins, coffee and chocolate. High sugar (usually 200–300 g/L) balanced by Assyrtiko’s naturally high acidity, very good or outstanding.
Small amounts produced, Vinsanto can command super-premium prices. Prices for dry wines increased noticeably recent years, due to increasing demand also high production costs. Significant producers: Estate Argyros and Domaine Sigalas.

Question 30

Wine business.

Answer 30

Around 7,000 growers many own very small plots and sell grapes to larger producers, largest are Greek Wine Cellars and Boutaris Group. More than 1,000 wineries most very small, selling only locally or in bulk to co-operatives or larger companies. Last 10 years rise in small wineries marketing selling own wines.
Domestic market most significant. Many Greek drinkers still prefer international varieties, creating an awkward difference between domestic and export markets.

Question 31

What are the top export countries for Greek wine?

Answer 31

Approximately 13% is exported.
USA and Canada
Australia and the UK.

Question 32

What are some challenges and strengths for Greek indigenous varieties.

Answer 32

Challenges:
1. introduce consumers to unfamiliar varieties.
2. Unfamiliar language and alphabet also proved an obstacle and export-minded producers now use Latin, rather than Greek, alphabeton labels and use familiar terms such as PDO and PGI rather than Greek equivalents.
2.Weak economy made Greek wines excellent value on export markets and very few of even highest quality wines reach premium prices.

Strengths:
1.Indigenous varieties provide important point of difference for Greek wines.
2.Assyrtiko proven particular success on export markets and others starting to make progress.

Question 33

What is the promotional body.

Answer 33

Wines of Greece. Active on export markets to promote and educate trade and consumers about Greece’s wines, regions and grape varieties.