WSET D3 - Greece Flashcards
Summarise the history of Greece wine.
- Height of Greek wine culture - ‘Golden Age’ (500–300 BCE). Greek empire spread around Mediterranean, taking its wines (best in world at time), and wine culture.
introduced some first wine laws to protect certain wines from particular locations, prevent fraud and raise taxes. Herbs, spices, flowers, honey and oils etc. was added to protect from oxidation and mask off-flavours. Pine resin continues to be used for Retsina. - 2nd century BCE became part of Roman Empire. Introduced wines from elsewhere in Empire, prevented Greece from exporting. The decline continued under Byzantine Empire then Ottoman Empire that wine was only produced for consumption around village where grapes grown.
- Modern Greek state established 1830, following revolution of 1821. The retreating Ottomans destroyed most agricultural land and then two Balkan wars, two World Wars and a civil war prevented recovery of Greek wine industry. In addition, many that survived end of 19th century were destroyed by phylloxera (appeared in Macedonia in 1898).
- Most 20th century, seen as a source of cheap, often poorly made wine, in particular Retsina, mainly by co- operatives and handful large companies began to emerge.
By 1970s, some smaller producers bottling wines even selling outside local area. 1980s a rapid rise in small quality- minded producers: some previously worked for larger companies but many were people who benefited from growth of Greek economy and now wanted to make wine. This led to creation of modern Greek wine culture estate-produced, higher- quality wines. Most Greek wine still consumed domestically but financial crisis 2008 led to significant drop in consumption and forced producers look to export market. Wine exports increased significantly last decade from a very low base, foreign consumers begin to discover Greece’s wide indigenous varieties.
What’s the climate like in Greece?
34° - 42°N. Generally Mediterranean.
long, hot summers (usually over 30 and reaching 45°C some years) short, mild winters.
Inland - increasingly continental: summer even hotter winter can drop below freezing.
Spring frost can be problem in northern Greece, such as Amyndeon.
Very mountainous country and many best planted at altitude moderate temperatures. Some places such as Amyndeon and Mantinia can be cool enough that grapes not always reach full ripeness, depending on variety. Few flatter areas, most notably plains of eastern Macedonia and central Greece are hotter, although towards coast sea is another moderating factor.
Rainfall levels vary: Santorini exceptionally dry but averages in most other regions 400-700 mm. Little or no rain during growing season, except mountainous north and west. Water stress is common issue and irrigation often essential, where water resources are available.
What’s the main threat of the vineyard area?
Strong, onshore winds especially on Cyclades islands, such as Santorini, are constant threat.
Can stop photosynthesis, interrupting flowering and berry-set, delaying ripening, destroy unprotected vines. Very dry and increase water stress.
What are the soil types found here?
Wide range (limestone to volcanic soils) even within small areas, numerous soil types can be found.
Apart from fertile plains, tend to be low in fertility. Yields traditionally low.
Scale?
Vineyards tend to be very small (average just over 0.5 ha) Many sell grapes to larger producers or co-operatives or produce small volumes sell locally. Size with tricky terrain, means many still worked by hand.
Summarise the evolution of Greek viticulture.
Mixture of traditional and modern. Larger companies began modernising in 1960s & 1970s, passing on their expertise to smaller growers and producers who supply them. Industry really began move forward when Greece joined EU in 1981 and gained access to funding. Many new breed of producers studied viticulture and gained experience in other parts of the world; however still recognise retaining some more traditional methods create distinctive wines.
Is irrigation permitted here?
Yes. Mostly for international varieties such as CS and Merlot, as number of local varieties developed higher tolerances of drought. Water-holding capacity of soil in an area is also key influence.
Always drip irrigation.
Is organic and biodynamic viticulture used here?
Hot, dry conditions - suitable for organic and biodynamic viticulture. Many using organic practices for centuries; use of chemicals relatively recent occurrence.
Growing number sought organic certification and experimenting with biodynamic techniques.
What are training and pruning like here.
Majority trellised; usually cordon-trained with VSP. In some places, specific trellis and pruning systems developed over centuries to suit local conditions, in particular Santorini to cope with high winds and very low rainfall.
Why are international grape varieties increasingly planted?
International varieties only began in late 1980s, prompted by a demand in domestic market also by a concern on export, that foreign consumers would be unwilling to buy wines they not heard of and struggled to pronounce. Whilst some made successful single-varietal wines from Chardonnay, SB, CS, Merlot, and Syrah, these often used in blends with local varieties to give consumers something recognisable on label. Number of these blends particularly successful: eg: SB with Assyrtiko and Merlot with Xinomavro.
What are the leading varieties?
Savatiano
Roditis
Agiorgitiko
Xinomavro
Assyrtiko
CS
Merlot
Syrah
Moschofilero
Describe Savatiano.
Most planted. Drought resistant.
Mainly used to produce large volumes inexpensive wine also most common ingredient in Retsina. However, reputation starting to rise with some very good from low- yielding, dry-farmed bush vines (subtle citrus, pear, stone fruit as well as a nutty character with age).
Describe Roditis.
Second most planted. Similar to Moschofilero is pink skinned. High yields made it popular and like Savatiano, mainly for inexpensive wine and blending ingredient for Retsina. Reputation also improving thanks to higher quality wines made at altitude and from old vines (eg: Peloponnese). Best examples are M bodied with high acidity and ripe fruit, such as melon.
Describe Assyrtiko.
Best-known and most prized indigenous white grape .
Originally from Santorini, now widely planted on mainland, highly adaptable to different conditions.
Retains high acidity when ripe (even hottest conditions). High acidity balances typically high alcohol means wines can age well; also ideal for lusciously sweet wines, such as Vinsanto from Santorini.
Dry Assyrtiko - citrus, stone and tropical fruit, often with a strong smoky or flint characteristic. Some producers make wines where at least part of blend aged in oak, often leading to a fuller body and different profile of flavours (less intense primary, more secondary characteristics).
Describe Moschofilero.
Prized for quality potential, produces aromatic wines with citrus, flowers (particularly rose petals) and spices notes, similar to Muscat. Wines are high acid, light-bodied, relatively low alcohol (around 12%). Pink-skinned and many have a pink tinge; some make a rosé using extended skin contact. Mainly planted in Mantinia in Peloponnese.
Describe Malagousia.
20 years ago almost extinct. Quickly established reputation for high-quality wines, although plantings still very small, spreading rapidly throughout Greece. M acidity and M body with complex and intense stone fruit and flowers. Grapes grown in cooler sites or picked early can have a herbal or herbaceous note. Wines may fermented in stainless steel, old oak or a proportion of new oak. Grown in most areas.
Also significant plantings various Muscat used for dry to lusciously sweet wines.
Describe Agiorgitiko.
Most planted black variety, versatile, wide range wines from lighter, fruity early drinking to more complex, full-bodied age worthy style as well as high quality rosés and sweet wines. Reds - deeply coloured with M acidity, M to high soft tannins and M alcohol.
Ripe red fruit (although can become jammy if allowed extra ripe) and sweet spices. Often aged in oak, usually a proportion new. Mainly found in Peloponnese, highly regarded from PDO Nemea.
Describe Xinomavro.
Most prized black variety. All over northern Greece but most famous in Naoussa (Northern Macedonia) Often likened Nebbiolo: in their youth can have unpleasantly high acidity and grippy tannins with aromas more vegetal than fruity. Pale-coloured and turn garnet rapidly.
Often benefit from long bottle ageing: best from lower-yielding vines and aged in oak, can age for decades, developing highly complex flowers, herbs, spices, leather and earthiness.
More recently, number of producers started producing wines more accessible in youth. Using riper grapes and less extraction, often aged in new oak. Some blend with Merlot to soften rough edges.
How’s winemaking like in Greece?
Production fallen since 1990s.
Traditionally, grapes crushed by foot then fermented in old casks, mainly from oak or chestnut, then simply stopped up and wine left to mature for few months before drawn off and consumed. As with viticulture, has been significant modernisation, particularly since Greece’s accession to EU in 1981. Virtually all wineries now use modern presses, temperature control and stainless-steel vessels for fermentation. From late 1980s onwards, significant increase in use of new barriques first for reds then also for whites. Barrels mainly made from French oak, although American oak used too. Although still common, many now looking for more restrained oak.
Modern producers also returning to some more traditional winemaking practices, such as naturally-occurring yeast, shorter extraction even maturing wines in amphorae like Ancient Greeks. Others experimenting, eg, with lees contact for Assyrtiko and Malagousia.
There is also long tradition of sweet wines, often using sun-dried grapes. Both white and black varieties, with Muscat most widely used.
Explain wine style Retsina.
Originally used to seal amphorae then used as an additive, probably for flavouring purposes.
Its modern-day popularity started in late 19th century, but with increased tourism to Greece after world wars, sales boomed in 1960s. Unfortunately, many made cheaply and badly. Resin often used to try and mask poor quality or even faulty wines (rarely successfully). However, high-quality examples, from ripe grapes using good-quality resin.
Throughout Greece but most from hot central plains.
Number of varieties, although Savatiano and Roditis most commonly used. Amount of resin used fallen over centuries as winemaking techniques improved. Resin usually added to must (in past added to wine) and wine is then left on lees for no more than a week after fermentation (in past often left much longer), both leading to a more subtle, integrated pine resin character.
Retsina now a legally-protected category with regulations ensure quality standards. Amount of resin can be added controlled and parameters for final product such as min. acidity and permitted alcohol are specified. Retsina does not comply with standard EU definition of wine as it is not made exclusively from grapes. However, has been granted special status as a ‘wine of appellation by tradition’ (OKP in Greek). Premium bottlings, often made with Assyrtiko, gradually helping to improve reputation .
Wine law and regulations.
In line with rest of EU.
Equivalent PDO is POP. Individual PDOs lay down rules on grape growing and winemaking (eg: yields, varieties, PDO Naoussa also have ageing requirements). With exception of Muscat for sweet wines, PDO usually restricted to native varieties.
PGE (PGI). Less strict and international varieties may used.
Wines without a geographical indication labelled ‘Wines from Greece’. Mainly for high-volume brands, blended from more than one region and accounts 18% annual production.
A special category, OKP, for traditional products, most notably Retsina.
Summarise Macedonia.
Northern border. Large region, wide range conditions from mountains in north and west to plains in east. In mountains, climate is continental, temperatures relatively cool - altitude. Rain throughout year (650–700 mm) Water supply less an issue than elsewhere. 2 leading PDOs, Naoussa and Amynteo.
On plains, climate warm and Mediterranean, in rain shadow of mountains therefore drier. Fertile soils ideal for higher-volume wines but there are also some good and very good wines produced in PGIs of Drama and Kavala.
Traditionally a red wine region. PDOs of Naoussa and Amynteo only 100% Xinomavro. Warmer, drier Drama Valley to east has strong reputation for high quality, full-bodied, modern style Bordeaux blends. There are also some whites of note: Chardonnay and SB at altitude and full-bodied ripe wines from popular Greek varieties such as Assyrtiko and Malagousia in Drama and Kavala.
Summarise Naoussa.
South-eastern slopes of Mount Vermio (150 - 400m). Best sites sheltered from strong, cold winds from north and west but temperatures still relatively cool.
100% Xinomavro. High acidity and tannins, great complexity and potential to age for decades. Most mid-priced with a few premium, good to outstanding. Significant producers: Thymiopoulos Vineyards and Kir-Yianni.
Traditionally - aged in large old wooden vessels, giving pronounced spicy and meaty, rather than fruity, aromas. In 1990s, some started using new barriques, giving even firmer tannins, more body and oaky aromas, although many now reverted to more restrained style. Recent years, more modern style emerged, using riper fruit and either cold soaking or whole-bunch fermentation to produce a deeper-coloured less tannic wine.
Complex mixture of soils and microclimates based more on aspect and topography than altitude. Number of producers now making village or single-vineyard wines, highlight variations between different areas. Outside PDO, number of good quality rosés and red blends of Xinomavro with Merlot produced.
Summarise Amynteo.
PDO Amynteo is on opposite, north-western side of Mount Vermio. Higher than Naoussa (570 - 750m) and northerly aspect means exposed to cold northerly winds, leading to cool summers and cold winters. Site selection crucial. Unusually for Greece, close to number of lakes without which temperatures would be more extreme. However, humidity is higher, increasing risk of rot, soil more fertile, care has to be taken to control yields otherwise can fail to ripen. some years, spring frost can be problem.
Unlike in Naoussa, rosé permitted. Due to cooler temperatures, Xinomavro from Amynteo usually lighter in body and lower in tannins, with best having distinctive floral quality. Generalisations are difficult: areas with sandy soils remained phylloxera-free, meaning significant old vines giving more concentrated wines, and, as in Naoussa, some now making a riper, more accessible style. Mid-priced, good to very good quality, though outstanding examples exist. Significant producers: Alpha Estate.
Some blend Xinomavro with Merlot and other varieties, but cannot be labelled as PDO wines.
