Waves & Tides

Question 0

Tide formation: The ocean on the side of the

Answer 0

Earth with the moon is attracted, creating a tidal bulge. As the Earth rotates, the bulge is dragged around the globe.

Question 1

Tide formation: Generated by the

Answer 1

Gravitational pull of the moon, Earth and sun.

Question 2

Wave formation: Winds blow across the

Answer 2

Surface of the sea, creating friction between the air and the sea which transfers energy from the atmosphere to the ocean.

Question 3

Wave formation: Waves have

Answer 3

Potential energy because of their height and kinetic energy because of the water motion.

Question 4

Wave formation: Fetch - The distance of open water

Answer 4

Which the wind has blown. The greater the fetch and wind speed = larger wave with more energy.

Question 5

Refracted waves: The drag of the sea floor

Answer 5

Slows the part of the wave closest to the shore, the wave swings round to hit the shore almost parallel.

Question 6

Refracted waves: Occur at headlands, sites of

Answer 6

Intense erosion because of the wave refraction. Results in bays becoming areas of deposition - Sandy beaches.

Question 7

Destructive waves: Height to wavelength ratio of

Answer 7

Greater than 0.25

Question 8

Destructive waves: Withdraw sediment from

Answer 8

Beaches, plunge onto beach and stir sediment, transporting it offshore with a powerful backwash.

Question 9

Constructive waves: Low height to wavelength ratio of

Answer 9

Less than 0.025

Question 10

Constructive waves: Backwash has little

Answer 10

Energy to remove sediment from the beach.

Question 11

Constructive waves: Important in

Answer 11

Building up beaches, they push more material up the beach than they remove.