Waves Flashcards
Destructive waves
Responsible for erosional processes
Happen at high frequency (10-15 waves per minute)
Steep + high w/ a circular motion so waves break at a greater height
Causes the wave to ‘plunge’ + travel a shorter distance along the beach
Destructive waves remove material from coasts because the swash is less powerful - backwash
Constructive waves
Happen @ low frequency (6-9 waves per minute)
Long + low
Over time constructive waves will firm gently sloping beaches
Constructive waves deposit material on coasts because the backwash is less powerful than the swash
Move = elliptical motion with waves breaking w/ little height
Results in them ‘spilling’ + breaking out further along the beach
Processes of erosion
Erosion = wearing away of rock
Several erosion processes happen @ coastlines w/ their ability to alter the shape of coasts influenced by wave type + coastline shape + lithology
Hydraulic power
Causes the breakdown of cliffs due to the force of water being compressed into the cracks of the rock
Repeated action of the water forced in + out of the cracks in the rock leads 2 the breakdown of the surrounding cliff
Abrasion
Pieces of rock are picked up by waves + hit against the bed, beach, cliff
Wears them away over time
Attrition
Pieces of bed load (material carried in the water) are hit against one another
Causes them to break apart + become smaller + rounded
Corrosion
Happened when there’s a chemical reaction b/ seawater (contains a weak acid) + susceptible rocks like limestone