Wave types and their characteristics Flashcards

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1
Q

What is a coast

A

Where the land meets the sea

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2
Q

What is it called when the land meets the sea

A

A coast

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3
Q

What is a wave

A

A long body of water curling into an arched form which breaks on the shore

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4
Q

What is it called when there is a long body of water curling into an arched form which breaks on the shore

A

A wave

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5
Q

Name the 3 steps of wave formation

A

Wind, friction, ripples which develop into waves

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6
Q

What is wave length

A

The distance between wave crests

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7
Q

What is the distance between wave crests

A

Wave length

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8
Q

What is a wave crest

A

The top of the wave

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9
Q

What is the top of the wave

A

The wave crest

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10
Q

What is wave period

A

The time between wave crests

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11
Q

What is the time between wave crests

A

Wave period

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12
Q

What is swash

A

Water travelling up the beach at an oblique angle, in the direction of the prevailing wind

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13
Q

What is water travelling up the beach at an oblique angle, in the direction of the prevailing wind

A

Swash

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14
Q

What is backwash

A

Water travelling back towards the sea at 90°, due to gravity

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15
Q

What is water travelling back towards the sea at 90°, due to gravity

A

Backwash

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16
Q

What is a wave trough

A

The bottom of a wave

17
Q

What is the bottom of a wave

A

The wave trough

18
Q

What 3 things do wave height and energy depend on

A

Wind speed, wind duration and fetch

19
Q

What is wave fetch

A

The distance the wave has travelled

20
Q

What is the distance the wave has travelled

A

Wave fetch

21
Q

How does fetch effect waves

A

The longer the fetch, the bigger the wave

22
Q

How does wind duration effect waves

A

The longer the wind has blown the bigger the wave

23
Q

How does wind speed effect waves

A

The faster the wind the bigger the wave

24
Q

Which coast often has bigger waves

A

South-West

25
Q

Which coast often has smaller waves

A

East

26
Q

How does wave orbit change as the wave approaches the shore

A

It starts circular and becomes more eliptical until it breaks at the shore

27
Q

Name the 5 characteristics of constructive waves

A

Low wave height, long wave length, low frequency, strong swash, weak backwash

28
Q

Name the 5 characteristics of destructive waves

A

High wave height, short wave length, high frequency, weak swash, strong backwash

29
Q

How do destructive waves effect the coast

A

They attack the coast, eroding it

30
Q

How do constructive waves effect the coast

A

They deposit sediment, adding to the coast