Wave types and their characteristics

Question 1

What is a coast

Answer 1

Where the land meets the sea

Question 2

What is it called when the land meets the sea

Answer 2

A coast

Question 3

What is a wave

Answer 3

A long body of water curling into an arched form which breaks on the shore

Question 4

What is it called when there is a long body of water curling into an arched form which breaks on the shore

Answer 4

A wave

Question 5

Name the 3 steps of wave formation

Answer 5

Wind, friction, ripples which develop into waves

Question 6

What is wave length

Answer 6

The distance between wave crests

Question 7

What is the distance between wave crests

Answer 7

Wave length

Question 8

What is a wave crest

Answer 8

The top of the wave

Question 9

What is the top of the wave

Answer 9

The wave crest

Question 10

What is wave period

Answer 10

The time between wave crests

Question 11

What is the time between wave crests

Answer 11

Wave period

Question 12

What is swash

Answer 12

Water travelling up the beach at an oblique angle, in the direction of the prevailing wind

Question 13

What is water travelling up the beach at an oblique angle, in the direction of the prevailing wind

Answer 13

Swash

Question 14

What is backwash

Answer 14

Water travelling back towards the sea at 90°, due to gravity

Question 15

What is water travelling back towards the sea at 90°, due to gravity

Answer 15

Backwash

Question 16

What is a wave trough

Answer 16

The bottom of a wave

Question 17

What is the bottom of a wave

Answer 17

The wave trough

Question 18

What 3 things do wave height and energy depend on

Answer 18

Wind speed, wind duration and fetch

Question 19

What is wave fetch

Answer 19

The distance the wave has travelled

Question 20

What is the distance the wave has travelled

Answer 20

Wave fetch

Question 21

How does fetch effect waves

Answer 21

The longer the fetch, the bigger the wave

Question 22

How does wind duration effect waves

Answer 22

The longer the wind has blown the bigger the wave

Question 23

How does wind speed effect waves

Answer 23

The faster the wind the bigger the wave

Question 24

Which coast often has bigger waves

Answer 24

South-West

Question 25

Which coast often has smaller waves

Answer 25

East

Question 26

How does wave orbit change as the wave approaches the shore

Answer 26

It starts circular and becomes more eliptical until it breaks at the shore

Question 27

Name the 5 characteristics of constructive waves

Answer 27

Low wave height, long wave length, low frequency, strong swash, weak backwash

Question 28

Name the 5 characteristics of destructive waves

Answer 28

High wave height, short wave length, high frequency, weak swash, strong backwash

Question 29

How do destructive waves effect the coast

Answer 29

They attack the coast, eroding it

Question 30

How do constructive waves effect the coast

Answer 30

They deposit sediment, adding to the coast