wave terminology

Question 1

wave crest

Answer 1

crest is the top of the wave

Question 2

wave trough

Answer 2

the low point between two wave crests

Question 3

wave length

Answer 3

distance between two wave crests

Question 4

wave period

Answer 4

the time taken for a wave to travel through one wave length

Question 5

wave velocvity

Answer 5

the speed of movement of the wave crest

av length/ av wave period

Question 6

wave frequency

Answer 6

number of waves that break on the beach in a given period of time

Question 7

wave steepness

Answer 7

wvae height devided by wave length

Question 8

wave energy

Answer 8

the energy a wave releases once it breaks

Question 9

the swash

Answer 9

body of water rushing up the beach

Question 10

the backwash

Answer 10

body of water returing down the beach after a wave has broken

Question 11

wave refraction

Answer 11

where waves approach an irregular coastline they are refracted
waves slow down in the shallow water infront of a headland due to friction on the sea bed
waves in deeper water move ahead
orthogonals are lines drawn at right angles to the wave crests and show how wave energy is concentrated upon a headland , enhancing erosion
the refraction sets up longshore currents which move sediment to bays forming bay beaches.