processes

Question 1

high energy waves

Answer 1

strong winds blowing from the ocean will produce storm waves. they are an example of destructive waves

Question 2

low energy waves

Answer 2

if the wind that created the waves dies down over the ocean, the waves will continue to move in the same direction untill they reach the coastline
as they continue to move without wind stimulus so wave heigh decreases
when tbey reach the shpreline they are swell waves
(construtive waves)

Question 3

destructive waves

Answer 3

waves that remove sediment from the beach . they are steep high waves that have a short wave length and low wave frequencey. these have a weak swash and a stroing backwash

Question 4

construtive waves

Answer 4

low, gentle waves that add sediment to the beach, long wave length and low wave frequency. they have a strong swash and a weak backwash

Question 5

wave velcoity

Answer 5

this is the speed of movement of the wave crest, it can be calculated by dividing the avarage wave length by the wave period

Question 6

wave steepnes

Answer 6

wave height/ weave legth.

Question 7

the plunge line

Answer 7

the point at which the wave breaks

Question 8

spilling breaker

Answer 8

associated with a gentle beach and steepm waves, gradual peaking of the wave untill the crest becomes unstable, resulting in gentle spoilling of the crest

Question 9

plunging breaker

Answer 9

occour at steeper beaches, shore-ward face of the cliff becoming virticle, curling over then plunging forward and downward as an intact mass of water

Question 10

surging breaker

Answer 10

steep beaches with low steepness waves , crest remains smooth and the waves slides directly up the beach without breaking.

Question 11

wave of translation

Answer 11

a wave in which the particles of water move forward in the direction of wave propagation