Vin Doux Naturels Flashcards
What are Vins Doux Naturels (VDN)?
The term Vins Doux Naturels (VDN) describes a category of French wines made sweet by the addition of spirit during fermentation. There are a number of PDOs for these wines, spread throughout Roussillon, Languedoc and the southern Rhône, with around 80 per cent of production coming from Roussillon.
Explain the climate in the VDN PDO’s?
The general climate in all the VDN PDOs is Mediterranean. Roussillon is the warmest
and driest region and is influenced by the Tramontane wind all of which leads to greater transpiration from the grapes during the end of ripening, and hence a greater concentration of sugar. This can be beneficial meaning less spirit is needed to fortify a wine to a certain level of alcohol while retaining a certain level of residual sugar (i.e. a grape with a high level of sugar can ferment for longer, producing more alcohol, before reaching the desired level of residual sugar for the final wine). However, it also reduces juice yield.
What grape varieties are used in VDN?
The majority of VDNs are produced from Muscat or Grenache.
MUSCAT BLANC A PETITS GRAINS
This Muscat variety is the most widely planted in France. It has smaller grapes than Muscat of Alexandria, and it is considered to have a greater intensity of aroma and flavour. It is tolerant of dry weather and hence suited to Mediterranean climates in which rain during the growing season is scarce. It is susceptible to powdery mildew, botrytis bunch rot and mites. Plantings are increasing in number, mainly due to its popularity in dry, unfortified wines, either as a blending component (for aroma) or as a single varietal wine.
MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA
This Muscat variety has bigger grapes than Muscat Blanc and achieves high sugar levels. Similar to Muscat Blanc, it is tolerant of dry weather but is susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot. Plantings are in decline as it is often thought to produce wines that are less refined than those from Muscat Blanc.
GRENACHE
In this section, called Grenache Noir to avoid confusion with Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. Grenache Noir is a late ripening variety with good drought resistance, making it suitable to Mediterranean climates. It produces high yields, but can be relatively pale in colour unless these are controlled. It accumulates sugar quickly and is therefore suitable for production of fortified wines. It is susceptible to coulure at fruit set, and downy mildew, phomopsis and botrytis bunch rot, all of which can reduce yields. Grenache Blanc, Macabeu (the same as Macabeo in Spain) and Grenache Gris may also be part of the blend for VDNs in Roussillon.
Explain the vineyard management for VDN?
The climates for growing grapes for VDNs are generally warm and, particularly for unaged styles of Muscat, a shady canopy is required to reduce the chances of sunburn and excessive grape shrivelling.
Yields for all the appellations are small, the maximum is generally 30 hL/ha. By law, grapes must be picked with a minimum of 14.8% abv potential alcohol. Sometimes the grapes are picked slightly riper but overall producers generally want to retain as much acidity as possible to balance the residual sugar in these wines. Grapes tend to be hand-harvested, and there may be several passes through the vineyard depending on the ripeness of the crop. Late harvest or botrytized characters are not desired.
Explain the winemaking process for VDN’s?
VDNs are produced by adding grape spirit to stop fermentation early to give a sweet, fortified wine. The minimum concentration of residual sugar depends on the individual appellation, but ranges from 100 g/L to 125 g/L for Muscat-based wines, and 45 g/L for Grenache-based wines (though in practice many Grenache-based wines are around 100 g/L residual sugar). Neutral spirit of 95–96% abv is used so that the character of the spirit does not compete with the character of the base wine and/or maturation. Spirit is added when the fermentation reaches 5–8% abv to makes wines of 15–18% abv. Only approximately 5–10 per cent of the volume of the wine is made up of the fortifying spirit, and is another reason why VDNs do not have a particularly spirity character.
For VDNs made from white grape varieties, the grapes are typically pressed and the must fermented off the skins. A period of skin contact (e.g. 6–24 hours) prior to fermentation may be used to extract greater aroma from the skins of the grapes. The winemaker may choose to blend press juice with the free run juice for extra body and texture, or keep them separate as desired. For unaged VDNs, the must may be chilled and stored for a period of months and then fermented based on demand, to ensure the wines produced are as fresh as possible. For this style, the must and wine will also be protected from oxygen through the winemaking process, again to retain fresh primary aromas.
For VDNs made from black grape varieties, it is typical for the must to be fermented and fortified whilst in contact with the grape skins. The addition of the fortifying alcohol increases the extraction of colour, flavour and tannins, all of which are important for wines that are to undergo extensive ageing. Maceration on the skins can continue for a couple of weeks past the fortification date to maximise extraction. Cap management techniques such as pumping over and punching down are also used to maximise extraction.
For both red and white wines, stainless steel vessels are used for fermentation to allow for easy temperature control. White wines tend to be fermented cool at around 15°C (59°F) to enhance the production of fruity ester aromas. Red wines tend to be fermented at around 28°C (82°F) to promote extraction but retain fruity aromas.
Explain the maturation process of VDN’s?
As with other styles of fortified wines, the decisions made during the maturation process have a significant impact on the style of the wines. VDNs may either be released relatively young or undergo oxidative maturation. Labelling terms in each of the appellations are used to signify the style of wine produced.
YOUTHFUL, UNAGED WINES
These wines will be released for sale a few months after fermentation. The wines will typically be stored in closed stainless steel vessels at cool, constant temperatures, protected from oxygen (for example by blanketing with inert gas). These wines display the primary aromas and flavours of the grape variety or varieties from which they are made. Muscat- based wines will display floral and grapey aromas, and potentially other aromas such as peach, pear and honey. Grenache-based wines often show aromas of blackberries, raspberry and plums.
OXIDATIVELY AGED WINES
These wines can be matured in a variety of vessels over a period of several years. Some of the wines may be kept in old oak barrels. The barrels are typically not topped up during the maturation, which encourages oxidation. Some styles of these wines may be aged in glass demi-johns (also called bonbonnes) that are not quite full, un-stoppered, and left outside in the sun to speed up the ageing process. The wines from demi-johns may be directly bottled for sale, be transferred and matured further in barrels, or be used as a blending component with oxidatively aged wines from barrel.
What are the VDN appellations and styles of wine?
Rhone
There are two VDN appellations in the Rhône;
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise and Vin Doux Naturel Rasteau.
MUSCAT DE BEAUMES DE VENISE
The vines of Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise are planted on terraces on the south-east facing slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail, which provides shelter from the Mistral and aids ripening. The vast majority of production is white VDN made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Muscat à Petits Grains Rouge, a dark-skinned mutation (Brown Muscat in Australia), is allowed for the production of red and rosé VDN wines. These wines are always made in an unaged style. White Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise is generally medium bodied, with medium acidity and low alcohol for a fortified wine (around 15% abv). Due to protective winemaking the wines usually show primary aromas and flavours including blossom, grape, peach and honey. Significant producers include Domaine des Bernardins.
VIN DOUX NATUREL RASTEAU
can either be red, rosé (made by saignee method, and fortified off the skins) or white, and can be made in unaged or oxidative styles. In practice, only a tiny proportion of white is made, and most of the production is red. The red wines must be made with a minimum of 75 per cent Grenache Noir; Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc as well as a number of other Southern Rhône varieties can also be blended in. The appellation’s location on gentle south-facing slopes, providing maximum exposure to sunlight and some protection from the cool Mistral, means that grapes easily become very ripe, suitable for the production of sweet fortified wines with juicy, almost jammy fruit flavours. Unaged wines can show notes of cherries and plums, with oxidative styles showing more dried fruit and nutty hints. Levels of alcohol are generally low to medium, with 16–18% abv being typical.
LANGUEDOC
There are four VDN appellations in the Languedoc. All of the wines must be made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and made in an unaged style with subtle differences according to the location of the appellation. For example, the largest appellation, Muscat de Frontignan, is based south west of Montpellier at low altitude, and is hence relatively warm. It produces wines with a fuller body than many of the other appellations and displays aromas of tropical fruits. By comparison, Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois is located in the north east corner of Minervois at 250–300m elevation and the climate is more continental. The cooler climate gives wines with higher acidity, lighter body and more stone fruit and floral aromas.
ROUSSILLON
VDN wines make up a tiny proportion of production in the Rhône and Languedoc but play a much more significant role in Roussillon. VDNs represent 45 per cent of all Roussillon AOC production, but only two per cent of all Languedoc AOC production. The wines of each appellation are made in a range of styles:
• Grenat/Rimage – denotes unaged styles of red wines. Grenat is the term used in Maury and Rivesaltes, Rimage in Banyuls. Blanc: denotes unaged styles of white wines.
• Tuilé /Traditionnel – denotes a red wine that has been matured oxidatively. Tuilé is the term used in Maury and Rivesaltes, Traditionnel in Banyuls.
• Ambré – denotes a white wine that has been matured oxidatively.
• Hors d’âge – denotes a wine that has been matured oxidatively for a longer period than
Tuilé or Ambré wines. The wines can be red or white.
• Rancio – denotes a wine with ‘rancio’ character (see Rancio in Key Choices Affecting
Style, Quality and Price in Fortified Wines). The wines can be red or white.
The Grand Roussillon AOC covers a wide yet specifically delineated area for VDNs produced outside the five leading AOCs described below but can include declassified wines from those AOCs.
BANYULS AOC
This appellation is located at the eastern end of the Pyrenees, bordered by the Mediterranean to the east and Spain to the south. The red wines must be made of a minimum of 50 per cent Grenache Noir, but can also include Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris. The vineyards are planted on steep terraced schist slopes. A small amount of white VDN is also made. Significant producers include Domaine Vial-Magneres.
BANYULS GRAND CRU AOC
This appellation covers the same area as Banyuls, but the wines can only be red, must be made of a minimum 75 per cent Grenache Noir and must be matured for a minimum of 30 months. Wines that have been aged longer may qualify to be labelled as Hors d’âge or Rancio.
MAURY AOC
This appellation is located in the north of Roussillon. The vines are planted at 100–400 m in the foothills of the Pyrenees on dark-coloured schist soils that store heat from the day and release it at night, aiding ripening. The red VDNs must be made from a minimum of 75 per cent Grenache Noir. A small amount of white is also made, usually in an unaged style. Dry, unfortified wines can also be made in the same area, but these must be labelled as Maury Sec AOC.
MUSCAT DE RIVESALTES AOC
This is by far the largest appellation in Roussillon in terms of production. It is often made from a blend of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains and Muscat of Alexandria, and only made in an unaged style.
RIVESALTES AOC
This appellation, in the north of Roussillon close to the Mediterranean coast, encompasses a range of VDN styles. Both red and white VDNs are made in Grenat, Tuilé, Ambré, Hors d’âge and Rancio styles. The whites can only be made with a maximum 20 per cent Muscat varieties, with the balance coming from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu and Malvoisie. The reds are mainly made from Grenache Noir. Significant producers include Domaine Cazes.
