Rutherglen Muscat Flashcards
What is Rutherglen Muscat?
Australia makes a variety of fortified wine styles, including some inspired by Sherry and Port. However, it is arguably one of Australia’s own styles of fortified wines, Rutherglen Muscat, that has become the most well known from a global standpoint.
Vines were first planted in Rutherglen, Victoria in the 1850s. When gold was discovered in 1858, the population boomed and investment in the region increased. By 1890, Rutherglen produced around 25 per cent of Australia’s wine, much of which was exported to the UK. Sources are unclear on what styles of wine Rutherglen was producing at that time, though very old stocks of wines suggest some sweet, fortified wines were being made.
At the end of the 19th century, parts of Victoria, including Rutherglen, were decimated by phylloxera and by the time. Rutherglen recovered by replanting on resistant rootstocks, but the new century brought Federation and an end to cross-border tariffs. Rutherglen found it difficult to compete with the more productive regions in South Australia and did not fully restore its previous area of vineyards. It nevertheless continued producing full-bodied red wines and also its unique fortified wines as a point of difference. Today, Rutherglen is considered as the capital of fortified wines in Australia.
Many of the wineries that produce Rutherglen Muscat are family run and have been making this wine for several generations. Due to this, ‘house styles’ have developed and been maintained based on fruit selection, winemaking, maturation and blending choices. For example, Pfeiffer Wines is known for producing a lighter, fresher style whereas All Saints and Morris are known for their more intense and luscious styles of wine.
Explain the growing environment and grape growing of Rutherglen Muscat wines?
Rutherglen is situated inland in the north east of Victoria and has 411ha under vine. It has a continental climate with warm days but moderated by cool air flowing down from the Victorian Alps during the night. Warm days in the growing season and long, dry autumns mean that large amounts of sugar can accumulate in the grapes, required for these syrupy, very sweet styles of wine. Grapes are often left on the vine until they become extra ripe and start to shrivel. This increases the sugar concentration (it is not unusual for grapes to reach potential alcohol levels of 20% abv) and leads to the development of some dried fruit characteristics e.g. raisin. The producer will decide the time at which to harvest according to the weather and the degree of ripeness they desire, but it will usually be between mid-March and May. Many producers pick different vineyard blocks at different times to gain a combination of earlier harvested fruit with fresh Muscat aromas, and extra-ripe, shrivelled grapes with more sugar and dried fruit characters. The weather at harvest-time can influence which of these alternatives will predominate.
Although autumns are generally dry, rain can occasionally be a problem, increasing the risk of fungal diseases. The orange marmalade aromas that botrytis can give are not desired in the production of these wines, where even despite a long ageing process, the grapey aromas of Muscat should still be identifiable.
Rutherglen Muscat is made
from Muscat à Petits Grains Rouges, also known locally as Rutherglen Brown Muscat. This is a red- skinned mutation of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, and similar to the white version, displays pronounced grapey and floral aromas.
A variety of training and trellis systems is used. Vines tend to be trained to double cordons, with the canopy sprawling over a single foliage wire or held by more wires into a VSP system. A key concern, however, will be to provide some shading for the grapes which are likely to otherwise become sunburnt. Rutherglen has considerable plantings of old vines. These old vines are said to produce bunches of smaller grapes with a higher skin to juice ratio, which can produce deeper coloured, more concentrated wines. The proportion of old vine fruit used can be an element of house style.
Explain the fermentation and fortification process of Rutherglen Muscat?
When picked, Muscat grapes are partly shrivelled making it hard to extract the dense juice through pressing immediately. Crushed Muscat grapes therefore ferment briefly on their skins to break down the pulp and release sugar and flavours. Enzymes may be added to the juice and various cap management techniques (punching down, pumping over, rotary fermenters) employed to aid extraction.
Once the juice gains 1–2 per cent of alcohol, it is quickly drained off the skins, which are pressed and the combined juice then fortified to reach around 17.5% abv. Fortifying spirits of at least 96% abv are usually chosen; most producers aim to retain Muscat character in the wine and therefore want a spirit that is neutral. A lower strength spirit would need to be added in greater volume and would further dilute the wine.
The wines are clarified by racking off lees or by light filtration. Winemakers may now make adjustments to pH and perform light fining for protein stability. The aim is to avoid deposits that might cause off-flavours during maturation.
Explain the maturation process of Rutherglen Muscats?
The wines are matured in very old oak vessels, often in warm conditions. Classically, the wines are matured in warehouses with tin roofs, which become hot in the summer. The positioning of barrels is important; those nearer the top of stacks are subjected to warmer temperatures and mature more quickly. Some producers also have sections of their warehouse facilities that are insulated to retain more-even, cooler temperatures throughout the year, which generally slows the maturation and can be used to retain greater freshness.
The vessels consist of large round or oval casks of the capacity of 1,300 to 9,000 litres and smaller barrels of 180 to 500 L. Small vessels promote greater concentration through evaporation, more oxidation and generally a quicker maturation. The wood is often very old as the flavours and tannins from new oak are not wanted in these wines.
During maturation, water evaporates gradually from the oak vessels, causing alcohol, sugar and acidity levels to rise gradually over time. The speed of this process is impacted by the heat, the size of the vessel and also humidity, with warm, dry conditions leading to
a quicker rate of evaporation. Some producers will aim to reduce ullage by topping up the barrels frequently, maintaining a fresher, less oxidative style of wine. Others will top up barrels less frequently to encourage oxidative flavours to develop.
Overall, during maturation, the wines gradually turn to from pale pink, ruby or garnet to deep brown, increase in sweetness, alcohol and acidity levels, become fuller-bodied and more syrupy, and develop more tertiary flavours.
Most Rutherglen Muscat wines are non-vintage products and an important aspect in the production of the wine is the blending of younger and older wines to gain the optimum balance between freshness and complexity and to retain a consistency of style year on year. Some producers may use a modified solera system (removing some wine from barrel and replacing it with younger wine, although often not in quite the same systematic way used in Sherry solera systems). Blending helps producers achieve their ‘house style’. For example, blending in a high percentage of wines that were made from less-ripe grapes (note, not under ripe), have been stored in cooler conditions or that have been matured for less time can help create a fresher, fruitier style. Blending wines that have been purposely made with different
levels of residual sugar can fine-tune the perception of sweetness in the final wine.
Explain maturation of Rutherglen Muscat?
The wines are matured in very old oak vessels, often in warm conditions. Classically, the wines are matured in warehouses with tin roofs, which become hot in the summer. The positioning of barrels is important; those nearer the top of stacks are subjected to warmer temperatures and mature more quickly. Some producers also have sections of their warehouse facilities that are insulated to retain more-even, cooler temperatures throughout the year, which generally slows the maturation and can be used to retain greater freshness.
The vessels consist of large round or oval casks of the capacity of 1,300 to 9,000 litres and smaller barrels of 180 to 500 L. Small vessels promote greater concentration through evaporation, more oxidation and generally a quicker maturation. The wood is often very old as the flavours and tannins from new oak are not wanted in these wines.
During maturation, water evaporates gradually from the oak vessels, causing alcohol, sugar and acidity levels to rise gradually over time. The speed of this process is impacted by the heat, the size of the vessel and also humidity, with warm, dry conditions leading to
a quicker rate of evaporation. Some producers will aim to reduce ullage by topping up the barrels frequently, maintaining a fresher, less oxidative style of wine. Others will top up barrels less frequently to encourage oxidative flavours to develop.
Overall, during maturation, the wines gradually turn to from pale pink, ruby or garnet to deep brown, increase in sweetness, alcohol and acidity levels, become fuller-bodied and more syrupy, and develop more tertiary flavours.
Most Rutherglen Muscat wines are non-vintage products and an important aspect in
the production of the wine is the blending of younger and older wines to gain the optimum balance between freshness and complexity and to retain a consistency of style year on year. Some producers may use a modified solera system (removing some wine from barrel and replacing it with younger wine, although often not in quite the same systematic way used in Sherry solera systems). Blending helps producers achieve their ‘house style’. For example, blending in a high percentage of wines that were made from less-ripe grapes (note, not under ripe), have been stored in cooler conditions or that have been matured for less time can help create a fresher, fruitier style. Blending wines that have been purposely made with different levels of residual sugar can fine-tune the perception of sweetness in the final wine.
Explain the Rutherglen Muscat classifications?
The Muscat of Rutherglen Network was founded in 1995 to promote sales of Rutherglen Muscat. This network introduced a classification system of four descriptions based on richness, complexity and intensity. The wines are classified on taste, rather than age – although age is a major factor that determines style. As the level of classification increases, the number of vintages in the blend and the span of age between the oldest and youngest component wines will generally be greater. Although many producers of Rutherglen Muscat will produce each of the following styles, Rutherglen Muscat and Classic Rutherglen Muscat are produced in much greater volumes than Grand or Rare. (Producers of Rutherglen Muscat also generally produce a range of other fortified and non-fortified wines.)
- Rutherglen Muscat – described as the foundation of the style. Average age 3–5 years. Residual sweetness 180–240 g/L.
- Classic Rutherglen Muscat – displays a greater level of concentration, complexity and tertiary flavours. Average age 6–10 years. Residual sweetness 200–280 g/L.
- Grand Rutherglen Muscat – displays even greater concentration and complexity from blending both young and very mature wines. Average age 11–19 years. Residual sweetness 270–400 g/L.
- Rare Rutherglen Muscat – these wines are bottled in tiny volumes and represent the pinnacle of Rutherglen Muscat. Minimum average age 20 years – but wines in the blend can often be much older. Residual sweetness 270–400 g/L.1
Although individual producers have their house styles, in general wines in the ‘Rutherglen Muscat’ classification are medium garnet in colour, and have pronounced aromas of raisins, figs, dates, and sweet spices. They are sweet on the palate and full bodied with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol for a fortified wine and a pronounced intensity of flavours. They are usually of very good quality and mid-priced. ‘Classic’ generally has a deeper colour, more concentration and greater complexity. Their quality and price is often between those of Rutherglen Muscat and Grand and Rare.
By comparison, wines in the ‘Grand’ and ‘Rare’ classifications are usually tawny or brown in colour, with more of a nutty, treacle, liquorice character. They are even sweeter and fuller bodied than younger Rutherglen Muscats but with higher acidity and still some degree of fruit to provide balance. They are typically of outstanding quality and can reach super-premium prices.
Rutherglen Muscat is fully mature on release and does not improve further from ageing in bottle. It should be drunk within a year or two after bottling to taste at its freshest.
Explain the wine business of Rutherglen Muscat?
The production of Rutherglen Muscat is in the hands of only a few wineries, the majority belonging to the Muscat of Rutherglen Network. Most wines are made entirely from estate- grown fruit, but some winemakers buy in a small amount from growers.
Today, fortified wines (not just Rutherglen Muscat) account for 2 per cent of Australian wine sold globally (20 million litres). The vast majority of volume sales (19 million litres) are to the domestic market. Key export markets include China, the UK and the USA. Significant producers include Campbells and Chambers Rosewood.
