Port Flashcards
What is port and tell us about its history?
Port is a sweet, fortified wine hailing from the Douro region of Portugal. It originates from trade wars between England and France in the 17th century, causing England to increase trade with Portugal. The powerful red wines became popular in England, and brandy started to be added to stabilise the dry wines and make sure they arrived in England in good condition. The practice of fortifying the wine during fermentation started when two British merchants visited the Abbot of Lamego and found the sweet wines made there were of a higher quality than the dry wines they had seen anywhere else and shipped the entire stocks to England.
At the same time, a number of the famous Port shippers were established including Kopke, Warre, Croft, Quarles Harris and Taylor’s. Traditionally, shippers were agents that took a commission for shipping Port abroad or acquired Port from brokers in the Douro and then stored them in ‘lodges’ (wine cellars/warehouses) in Vila Nova de Gaia (located on opposite side of the mouth of the River Douro to Porto), prior to onward shipment overseas. However, most shippers have since become producers and have become dominant players in the production of Port, with their own vineyards, wineries and bottling facilities.
The signing of the Methuen Treaty in 1703 ensured that Portuguese wines received lower rates of duty in England than those of any other country. Port’s popularity led to the production of large amounts of poor-quality Port-style wines (using poor quality spirit, thin wines, and bolstering colour with additions such as elderberry juice). Poor quality meant that demand slumped, leading to over-supply and falling grape and wine prices. In action against this, in 1756, the Port vineyards were officially demarcated, and production regulations drawn up by the prime minister of the time, the Marquês de Pombal. At the same time, Pombal created the Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro, often referred to as Real Companhia Velha, from which all Ports for export had to be bought. The Companhia was also empowered to fix prices and was given the exclusive right to supply the spirit used in fortification. Although a number of the decrees passed by the Pombal were far from popular, sales volumes and prices of Port began to rise once again.
The early 19th century was challenging as the Douro and wider Portugal suffered through the Peninsular Wars and Portuguese Civil War. Later in the century the vineyards were hit by both mildew and then phylloxera, and many small growers and producers needed to sell their land and properties in order to survive. The shippers took advantage of low prices and started to own vineyards and quintas (estates).
The first half of the 20th century saw the creation of the Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP, 1933) responsible for the administration and supervision of the Port industry and the Casa do Douro (1932), a secondary authority to supervise the growers within the Port demarcation. Just after this time, vineyard parcels in the Douro were rated A through to I based on their suitability for producing Port; a classification that remains today (see The Beneficio in Wine Law and Wine Business). The Casa do Douro and then the IVP also controlled the purchase of the spirit (aguardente) with which producers could fortify their wines.
A number of other influential developments occurred at the end of the 20th Century and start of the 21st. In the early 1980s, the World Bank Scheme offered low-interest loans to Douro growers who could plant or replant up to 10 hectares of vineyard provided that the land was classified as being of either A or B grade and that only five prescribed varieties were used. Some of the major shippers, including Cockburn’s, Ferreira and Ramos Pinto, together with the local university joined to fund a vineyard research programme. Around 2,500 ha of vineyards were planted on wider terraces called patamares, and with blocks of the prescribed varieties (compared to the usual field blend).
In 1986, Portugal entered the EU and as a consequence by 1991, producers were permitted to source and buy their own aguardente on the open market, leading to a rise in quality in the spirit used and hence of Port overall.
In 1990, the Casa do Douro controversially bought 40 per cent of the shares in one of the largest shippers of the time, Royal Oporto. Although it was thought to allow growers to trade their own products, the venture was not a success and a few years later the Casa do Douro became bankrupt. In 2003, a new interprofessional body the Instituto dos Vinhos do Porto e do Douro (IVDP) was created to supervise both Port and Douro wine producers, reflecting the growing importance of dry Douro wines alongside Port.
In the first decades of the 21st century, developments have continued to be made. A number of issues were found with the first patamares and now a newer, improved version has been developed. Despite a continued focus on the five prescribed varieties, other local grape varieties are increasingly being noted and used for the characteristics they can bring to a blend. In the winery, depopulation in vineyard areas has meant that alternative solutions to traditional foot treading continue to be perfected and are now used for wines of all levels of quality.
Explain the location and climate of the Douro region?
The Douro region is located in the north east of Portugal. The total area of the appellation covers 250,000 ha, of which around 43,000 ha are planted and 32,000 ha of these register for DO Porto (the production of Port wines). It has a warm continental climate, with temperatures easily reaching 40°C (104°F) in the summer and freezing temperatures not unusual in the winter. Distance from the Atlantic Ocean combined with shelter from the Serra do Marão to the west of the region, mean that the vineyard area is much warmer and drier than the cities of Porto and Vila Nova di Gaia on the coast (70km from the western end of the vineyard area).
The vineyard area follows the path of the River Douro and is divided into three sub- regions: Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo and Douro Superior. The most westerly of the regions, the Baixo Corgo, is the coolest and wettest (900mm rainfall per annum), being nearest the cold Atlantic coast. With its cooler climate, the Baixo Corgo tends to produce fruit for many of the inexpensive Ruby and Tawny Ports. The Cima Corgo is warmer and drier (around 700mm rainfall per annum), and most of the well-known producers have vineyards in this region, which are used to produce Age-Indicated Tawny Port and Vintage Ports. By comparison, the Douro Superior, which is furthest from the coast, is the hottest and driest sub region (450mm rainfall per annum) and drought is a frequent issue. The Douro Superior is still relatively sparsely planted, but as it contains some flatter land which allows mechanisation, plantings are increasing.
Although the region is divided very generally into these three areas, the winding River Douro and its tributaries provides a range of microclimates. Vineyard sites vary widely in altitude and aspect meaning that there can be differences in average temperature and sunlight exposure even within a single vineyard.
Explain the soils of the Douro region?
The stony, shallow soils of the Douro are free-draining and poor in nutrients, which limits vigour. The underlying bedrock is schist, a type of rock that crumbles into layers relatively easily. Due to ancient tectonic movements, the schist in the area splits into vertical layers (rather than the more typical horizontal) and therefore vine roots are able to penetrate deep into the bedrock to find water. Irrigation is only permitted in exceptional circumstances, for example, periods of drought under which the vine could be in extreme hydric stress. Therefore, what little natural water there is, is the main source of water for the vine. The schist is so important in the viability of grape growing in this region that the boundary of the demarcated Port region mostly follows the outline of the schist. It is very difficult for vines to survive if planted above the impenetrable granite bedrock that is common in the wider area.
Explain the Douro regions vineyard layout and management?
1) Socalcos
This is the traditional method. Socalcos are narrow terraces, supported by walls of dry rock. They allow for planting densities of around 6,000 vines per hectare. This layout is typically not suitable for mechanisation (plus labour is required to maintain the walls), and for this reason socalcos are not usually considered when planting a new vineyard. The socalcos of the Douro are protected by UNESCO, and for that reason cannot be converted to any other layouts. The vines on the socalcos can be planted at lower densities to allow for a small tractor to enter the terraces to reduce so much need for labour.
2) Patamares
These are terraces supported by a steep earth ramp, rather than a stone wall. Small tractors are able to run up and down the slopes by the use of tracks that run diagonally up the slope. Patamares are cheaper to implement and maintain than socalcos, however, erosion and the growth of weeds on the ramps can be problematic. Planting densities are relatively low, around 3,000 to 3,500 vines per hectare, as the ramps take up a lot of space. There are two kinds of patamares:
- Large, wide patamares that support two rows of vines on each terrace. These were the original form of patamares, constructed when the bulldozers that create the terraces were large and bulky. Although growing two rows of vines on each terrace makes efficient use of vineyard land, uneven ripeness can be an issue, with the exterior row of vines gaining more sun exposure.
- Narrow patamares that only support one row of vines. These are a more modern version, carved by newer, smaller bulldozers and often laser technology ensuring precise construction. These patamares are often tilted very slightly towards the slope and also from one side of the terrace to the other, both of which improve water absorption and drainage and reduce erosion. With only one row of vines per terrace, uneven ripeness is less of a problem.
3) Vinha ao Alto
In this layout option, the vines are planted in vertical rows up the slopes. It is the least expensive option to plant and maintain and allows for relatively high-density planting (around 5,000 vines per hectare), and hence efficient use of land. However, above a 40% incline, mechanisation cannot be used, and therefore patamares are more likely to be used in these cases. Water run-off and erosion can also be significant problems. Use of this vineyard layout is currently relatively limited.
Vines are cordon-trained and spur-pruned or head-trained and cane-pruned, and VSP trellised, to promote even sun exposure and ripening, and allow for mechanisation where viable. Summer pruning, such as leaf removal, may be used to ensure sun exposure throughout the growing season, especially for late-ripening varieties. Rootstocks that are tolerant of drought (generally 110R and 1103P both of which are hybrids of V. rupestris and V. berlandieri) are widely used.
When vineyards are replanted key focuses are increasing vine density, vineyard layouts that allow mechanisation and selecting the best planting material (grape variety, rootstock etc.) for that area of land (this may even mean planting different grape varieties on the same terrace).
The maximum yield permitted for Port wine production is 55 hL/ha, but due to limited water availability, and, in some years, the hazards and diseases described below, yields are more likely to be around 30 hL/ha.
Viticultural hazards can include late spring frosts in the highest altitude vineyards and in some years cool, wet weather from the west during the early summer, which disrupts flowering and fruit set. Downy mildew and botrytis bunch rot can be issues, especially in the wetter Baixo Corgo. These are combatted by canopy management techniques and spraying with fungicides.
Fertilisers may be used as necessary to improve the poor nutrient status of the soil. Herbicides may be required to control weeds that grow on the slopes of the patamares, which can compete with the vines for water and nutrients. However, if there is enough space a small mower may be used. Cover crops may be grown on vinha ao alto slopes to prevent erosion, improve soil structure and nutrition, and reduce the presence of weeds. A number of the largest growers and producers are increasingly farming using sustainable or organic techniques where and when it is possible to do so.
Harvesting is carried out by hand; much of the vineyard topography is not suitable for machine harvesters. An ageing regional population (and continuing depopulation) is fast catching up with growers who each year face increasing difficulty in finding enough people to pick. Symington Family Estates, itself the largest single grower in the region, has been developing (since 2015) a suitable machine harvester to ensure that, if labour sourcing becomes too difficult, they will still be able to harvest their fruit. The harvest tends to start in the Douro Superior and end in the Baixo Corgo. The various microclimates within the valley, the use of different grapes and the prevalence of hand-harvesting (relatively slow) means that harvest can be spread over several weeks.
Explain the grape varieties in port wine?
There are over 100 grape varieties permitted for the production of Port. Since the 1980s five prescribed varieties have been the focus of replanting efforts and clonal research; Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional and Tinto Cão.
However, many small vineyard owners continue to plant in the ways that have been carried out for centuries, and therefore the many of vineyards in the Douro are planted
with a field blend. Furthermore, a number of producers are looking at varieties outside the prescribed five, particularly if they can make valuable contributions to the blend such as colour and acidity, and research is focused on maintaining the diversity of indigenous plantings and investigating their future potential, with the effects of climate change particularly in mind.
The vast majority of Port wines are made from a blend of varieties to make use of their differing characteristics and reduce vintage variation (e.g. cool, wet years may disrupt some grape varieties more than others). As stated above, a number of vineyards are made up of a mix of grape varieties (field blend). As the various grape varieties planted in the Douro have different ripening times, a field blend can provide a different character to blocks of different varieties that are all picked at optimum ripeness and then blended.
The fruit from old vines (vinha velha) is generally a key part of the blend in premium and super-premium Port wines, and some Port shippers make wines exclusively from old vine fruit.
Black varieties
The most important varieties (for volume and/or quality) are listed below.
Touriga Franca – A late ripening variety, making it suitable for growing in the warmest
sites (low altitude, south-facing). It has tight bunches of thick-skinned grapes, which makes
it relatively resistant to fungal diseases. However, it can be vigorous and this needs to be managed, usually by summer pruning. It contributes colour, tannin and acidity as well as juicy red and black fruit flavours and floral aromas to a blend. For these reasons it is popular with growers and Port producers and is by far the most grown variety.
Tinta Roriz – (Tempranillo in Spain and Aragonez elsewhere in Portugal). An early ripening variety, that is best grown in relatively cool sites as otherwise it can suffer from water stress. It can lend body and deep colour to the blend. It is capable of producing high yields, but these need to be limited otherwise the wines can lack concentration.
Tinta Barroca – An early ripening variety that is best planted coolest sites (high altitude or north-facing slopes, generally in the Baixo Corgo and Cima Corgo) otherwise it is prone to heat damage and grape shrivelling. It is not as floral as some of the other grapes, with flavours that tend to be more earthy. Unless planted in the coolest sites, it can lack acidity, and its colour also tends to fade more quickly than wines from Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. It is capable of producing high yields of grapes.
Touriga Nacional – A mid-ripening variety with thick-skinned grapes, producing wines
with deep colour intensity and high levels of tannins. It retains acidity well and displays concentrated flavours of black fruit and floral aromas. Its wines are said to have long ageing potential and hence it is often a component of the premium, long-matured wines. It can suffer from excess vegetative vigour, which needs to be managed through summer pruning, and is susceptible to coulure, which can lower its yields substantially and cause vine imbalance.
Tinta Amarela – (Trincadeira in other parts of Portugal) Prone to fungal diseases due to its tight bunches of grapes. Produces full-bodied wines with concentrated black fruits and spicy notes, that are approachable in youth, but are also capable of ageing.
Tinto Cão – A low yielding variety that produces small thick-skinned grapes that are resistant to fungal disease. It ripens late and is very tolerant of heat. It produces concentrated wines with high acidity and the capacity to age well.
Sousão – A thick skinned variety becoming increasingly popular for its deep intensity of colour and ability to retain high levels of acidity.
White varieties
The key white grapes for Port production are:
Malvasia Fina – (Boal in Madeira). Produces neutral wines with medium acidity, full body and a slightly honeyed characteristic.
Moscatel Galego Branco – (Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains). An aromatic grape; in Port production, often used for unaged styles.
Explain the winemaking fermentation and extraction method with port wine?
FERMENTATION AND EXTRACTION
In Port production, fermentation is stopped by the addition of grape spirit to create a sweet wine (usually 80–120 g/L residual sugar). The maceration with the skins lasts for a maximum of two days and therefore extraction techniques need to be very effective. The key methods of extraction during the fermentation include:
Foot treading in lagares
Lagares (singular lagar) are shallow (around 80 cm deep) square tanks, allowing a large surface area between the must and grape skins. Traditionally, they were made from granite and the extraction would come from foot treading. Foot treading is effective at extracting but at the same time gentle enough not to crush the seeds, which would release bitter tannins. This is still the method used for a small number of premium and super-premium Ports.
Modern lagares
Also called robotic lagares. More recently, modern lagares have been created in which silicon ‘feet’, attached to a stainless-steel gantry, press the grapes against the lagar floor and subsequently punch down the cap. The advantage of modern lagares is that they reduce the need for a large hired workforce, which can be difficult to obtain and unreliable, and however the initial investment for this equipment is higher. Modern lagares can produce wines of equal quality to those that are produced by foot treading, although some producers continue to use foot treading for their most expensive wines.
Pumping over
This technique is the same as that used for non-fortified wines. Although this technique can produce Ports with deep colour and high levels of concentration through frequent pumping over, it is not as effective at extracting as foot treading or modern lagares.
Stainless-steel pistons
This technique uses open stainless-steel vats with pistons that punch down the cap to a programmed schedule. This can be used in conjunction with pumping over, which is usually needed to promote a more-even extraction. This technique is believed to be almost as effective at extracting as lagares and seems to produce wines that are very similar in quality to those that have been made by foot treading in lagares.
Autovinifiers
These sealed concrete or stainless-steel tanks provide a solution to cap management that does not require electricity. The rising pressure of the CO2 produced from the fermentation pushes the juice up through pipes into a holding tank. When the pressure of the CO2 reaches a certain level, a valve is automatically released and the wine in the holding tank, no longer supported by the gas pressure, sprays over the cap. The key advantage of this technique is that it does not require electricity and therefore can be one of the cheapest options. However, because the process is reliant on CO2 released from fermentation, very little extraction occurs before the fermentation starts. This means that the wines that this technique tends to produce are lighter in colour, body and flavour, suitable for basic Tawny, White and Ruby Ports.
Explain how fortification works with port wine?
Port legislation states that the spirit used to fortify the wine must come from grapes or other grape-derived products and it must be of 77% abv (+/– 0.5%). This spirit is typically called aguardente. All Port is fortified to an alcoholic strength between 19–22% abv.
The alcoholic strength of the aguardente is relatively low compared to the 95–96% abv spirits used in many other fortified wines. Whereas 95–96% abv spirit is neutral, 77% abv has more character, and is the reason Port displays spirity aromas. Also, because of its relatively low alcoholic strength, a significant amount of spirit (approximately 1 L of spirit for every 4 L of fermenting must) needs to be added to produce a fortified wine of 20% abv, and therefore it is not surprising that the style and quality of the fortifying spirit has a significant influence on the style and quality of the wine.
From 1967 to 1976, all producers had to buy their aguardente from the Casa do Douro. From 1976, the IVP tendered the contract for the spirit. The aguardente was the same for all producers, and it was not of particularly high quality (cheap alcohol from southern Portugal, and then France). However, since 1991 producers have been able to source and buy their own aguardente. In the years that have passed since this time, Port producers have gained a better understanding of the role of the aguardente and many use slightly different spirits in different wines. Although all spirit must be 77% abv, some producers will use relatively neutral spirits to best show the character of the wine, whereas others will use spirits that are more aromatic (have more fruity esters) to add a certain character to their Port. The spirit chosen will also have an influence on the price of the final wine, therefore, high quality spirit will be added to premium wines, whereas less expensive spirit will be used in inexpensive wines.
The fermentation is stopped when the wine reaches around 5–7% abv and depends on the concentration of sugar the producer wants to retain in the final wine, generally 80–120 g/L. This can be a function of ‘house style’. The wine is drained from the skins before the aguardente is added. This means that draining must be as efficient as possible, as the must will continue fermenting during this time (until the fortifying alcohol is added), using up sugar that may be desired in the final wine. Modern fermentation vessels (including modern lagares) are generally designed to drain as quickly as possible, compared to traditional granite lagares, which can take hours to drain.
The mass of grape skins left after draining will be pressed and much of this press wine will be blended into the fortified free run wine to provide greater colour and tannin, necessary for wines that are to undergo long periods of ageing.
The grapes for Port are picked when the flavours and tannins are ripe. Too much potential alcohol is not an issue for these wines, but acidity can be low and pH high, and therefore acidification is common. Ports do not go through malolactic conversion as lactic acid bacteria are unable to tolerate the high concentration of alcohol in the wine after fortification.
All Ports spend their first winter in the Douro. During the months that follow fermentation the wines are left to clarify before they are racked off the gross lees. A rotary vacuum filter is often used to extract the remaining wine from the lees. In the spring, the wines may be shipped from wineries in the vineyard area to lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia.
Blending is a key part of the production process and may happen at any point. Ports are generally blends of different vineyard parcels, different grape varieties (though co- fermentation of different varieties is quite common), and, depending on the style, different vintages. Lots that have been treated differently in the winery may also be kept separate and used as blending options. For example, Port producers will generally make a range of young wines some with very high levels of sweetness and some that are drier specifically to adjust level of sweetness in the final wine style.
Many Ports are non-vintage products with consumers expecting consistency of style year on year. Blending wines, usually including those from different vintages, is an important process to ensure this consistency. Port producers also tend to have a ‘house style’ and hence blending can be used to achieve this style throughout the wines within the shipper’s range. Blending is also important for producing a wine of the right profile and quality for the style it is to become. For example, wines destined for Vintage Port will have deeper colour, greater concentration of flavours, and higher tannins to be able to undergo extensive ageing, compared to a Reserve Ruby or LBV. All of these factors mean that the more stock a shipper holds, the easier it is for them to create a range of different styles. Smaller producers may limit their ranges to certain styles of wines to ensure they can produce such styles with consistency.
Explain the maturation process with port wine?
The climate of Vila Nova de Gaia is better suited to the maturation of Port wines than the wineries in the vineyard area, with strong Atlantic influence the temperatures are generally cooler and more constant. However, as Vila Nova de Gaia has become more tourist focused and congested, gradually more producers have built well-insulated, humidity-controlled lodges in the vineyard area.
Most styles of Port are aged in oak, even if for a relatively short time. Vessels may vary considerably in size depending on the amount of oxidation desired. The largest, called balseiros, are vats that can hold 100,000 litres, these are generally used to store wines and keep them fresh. If gentle oxidation is desired, the wines are usually matured in 600 L barrels called pipes. The aromas of new oak are not wanted, and therefore new vessels will be used to produce unfortified wines for a few years before they are used for Port maturation.
Racking is carried out during the maturation process to remove lees that gradually accumulates at the bottom of the vessel to avoid potential off-flavours. The frequency of racking is another way the producer can control the amount of oxidation, as is the degree to which the vessels are topped up with wine.
The maturation process is key to the style of Port produced, and therefore more on maturation will be covered in Styles of Port.
List the styles of port?
Basic Ruby Basic Tawny Reserve Ruby Reserve Tawny Colheita Vintage Single Quinta Crusted Late Bottle Vintage (LBV) Rose Port White Port
What are Ruby Ports?
Basic Ruby Port is medium bodied, with medium tannin levels and often mixture of red and black fruit flavours. It is generally the product of wines that are suitable for drinking early and have not suitable ageing potential, for example, they may be fruity but without much tannin. Basic Ruby Port is usually produced using protective winemaking techniques to retain primary fruit flavours. This includes fermenting in stainless steel or concrete and ageing the wines in bulk (usually in stainless steel or concrete vessels, or sometimes large old wooden vessels) for a maximum of three years. The wine is generally a blend of more than one year and is expected to have the same consistent taste year on year. These wines are generally acceptable to good in quality and inexpensive to mid-priced. Due to limited ageing and use of cheap spirit (both of which mean that it can be made at low price points) the wines often have simple fruity flavours and can have slightly harsh alcohol.
What is a Basic Tawny Port?
These wines may show some lightness and browning of colour in common with other Tawny Ports, however this does not tend to come from long periods of oxidative ageing. These wines are often aged for no longer than Ruby Ports. They are often made by light extraction during fermentation (similar to Rosé Ports) to give them a paler colour reminiscent of an older wine. The fermenting must for Basic Tawny may be drained early, concentrating the remaining wine which can be used to add more colour and flavour to Ruby Port.
What are Reserve Ruby and Reserve Tawny Ports?
Reserve Ruby and Reserve Tawny are higher quality wines than basic Ruby and Tawny. Reserve Tawnies must be aged in wood for a minimum of six years.
There is no minimum ageing period for Reserve Ruby Ports, however they must be tasted and approved by the IVDP’s tasting panel. They tend to be more concentrated and of a higher quality and price than Basic Ruby.
What are Tawny Ports with an indication of age?
These Ports have been aged for long periods of time in wooden barrels. The barrels typically used are called pipes and hold 620–640 litres. These vessels permit a controlled exposure to oxygen and over time tannins soften, alcohol becomes more integrated, and primary flavours of fruit develop into tertiary flavours from fruit development (e.g. dried fruit) and oxidation (e.g. caramel, nuts). The barrels are old and therefore do not contribute flavours of oak. Due to the long ageing period, clarification and stabilisation occurs naturally in barrel and therefore these wines tend not to need filtration before bottling.
An age of 10, 20, 30 or 40 years can be stated on the label. The age specified is not the minimum amount of time the wine must be aged. Indeed, these wines are usually blends of more than one vintage and this blend can be made up of wines that are younger and older than the age specified. Instead, the wine will be tasted by a panel within the IVDP and must be deemed to have the characteristics of a wine of that age.
Within their long ageing, the barrels need racking and topping up (due to gradual evaporation of the wine) and this makes the production of age-indicated Tawny Ports relatively expensive compared to other styles of Port. Age-indicated Tawny Ports have seen increased sales in the last few years and as stocks of these wines are decreasing, prices are rising.
In recent years, a sub-category has arisen, namely very old (non-age indicated) aged Tawny. This started with the launch of Taylor’s Scion, a Tawny Port of more than 150 years old. Some other shippers have now launched their own versions, such as Graham’s Ne Oublie (dating from 1882). Given their rarity and long maturation, these wines sell at super premium prices.
What are Colheita Ports?
Tawny Ports that are made from the grapes from one vintage are called Colheita Ports. They must be aged in small barrels for a minimum of seven years before being bottled. The label must state the vintage of the wine as well as the year the wine was bottled. The shipper could bottle part of their Colheita wine in one year (providing it is at least seven years old) and then bottle more in the following years according to demand. The wine in barrel can be topped up with other wines or spirit to avoid ullage. Colheita Ports do not tend to be as expensive as Vintage Port, however, there are some shippers that hold small stocks of very old Colheita wines that can sell for super premium prices.
What are Vintage Ports?
Vintage Ports are wines from one ‘declared’ vintage. Producers must register their intention to release a Vintage Port in the second year after harvest and the young wine is approved by an IVDP tasting panel. Producers usually only declare a Vintage Port in years where their grapes and young wines are of exceptional quality. There are some years where the vast majority of Port shippers will declare a vintage (e.g. 2011, 2016) whereas in other years, the decision is more mixed (e.g. 2015). As well as considering quality, producers will decide to release according to market conditions. If there are two exceptional vintages in a row (very rare) the producer must decide whether to declare both vintages, the second of which could take sales away from the first.
As well as being the product of a very good vintage, the grapes will come from high quality plots, often from the shipper’s own vineyards. Some shippers create super-premium wines from very select plots, usually of old vines; the original in this category being Quinta do Noval’s Nacional, produced from the fruit of old, un-grafted vines.
Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional are usually key components in the blend, giving colour, tannin and flavour concentration suitable for long-term ageing. The level of extraction during fermentation will also reflect this aim. Various lots (batches) of these wines are then stored in large old wooden vessels to avoid too much oxidation. The wines will be tasted over the period of the next two years to determine if a vintage can be declared and which lots may be suitable for Vintage Port. Wines that do not become Vintage Port after this period may become Single Quinta Ports, LBV, Crusted Port or even possibly a form of Tawny Port.
Vintage Ports undergo a maximum of three years in large old wooden vessels before extensive bottle ageing, although the majority are bottled during the second spring after the harvest, hence after 18–20 months in wood. The small amount of oxygen exposure during this time ensures that stability of the colour of the wine (through anthocyanin-tannin bonding) over its long ageing. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration, which results in a heavy deposit of sediment on opening and pouring.
Young Vintage Ports tend to be deep in colour and full bodied with high levels of tannins and a pronounced intensity of ripe black fruit and sometimes floral notes. As they age, they gradually develop flavours of dried fruit and the tannins and alcohol integrate. They tend to be very good to outstanding in quality, and due to this quality sell for premium and super premium prices. Given their limited time in wooden vessels and early release from the winery, these tend to be highly profitable wines for the producer.
