The Formation of Waves

Question 1

how is energy transferred to create waves?

step 1

Answer 1

1. wind creates friction on the waters surface

Question 2

how is energy transferred to create waves?

step 2

Answer 2

2. frictional drag between the wind and the waters surface causes water particles to rotate and energy is transferred forward

Question 3

how is energy transferred to create waves?

step 3

Answer 3

3. when the wave reaches shallow water it slows down due to friction between the base of the wave and the sea bed.
   the shape of the wave becomes increasingly elliptical

Question 4

how is energy transferred to create waves?

step 4

Answer 4

4. the top of the wave continues to move forward as it is unaffected by the friction with the sea bed.
   it becomes steeper and steeper and eventually breaks

Question 5

how is energy transferred to create waves?

step 5

Answer 5

5. water moves up the beach as swash

Question 6

how is energy transferred to create waves?

(step 6

Answer 6

6. water then returns back down the beach as backwash

Question 7

what factors affect wave height?

Answer 7

• wind speed
• wind duration
• fetch

Question 8

what is fetch?

Answer 8

the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction