Textiles - Exam 3 Flashcards
S-twist
In this twist, the yarns run upward to the left.
Z-twist
In this twist, the yarns run upward to the right.
Ring spinning
In this method of spinning, fibers are carded to bring them to a more parallel position and bundled into a loosely formed rope about one inch in diameter. It can produce novelty yarns to uniform yarns. The softest yarns are produced this way, but they tend to be more costly.
Open-end spinning
In this method of spinning, only one process form carded sliver to spun yarn is required. Carded sliver is fed into the open-end spinning unit, which separates the fibers, twists them together to form completed spun yarn, and then winds the yarn onto spools or cones. There tends to be better regularity and uniformity; improved abrasion resistance, especially in high twisted yarns; improved distribution of fibers in blends; and improved abrasion resistance resulting in brighter shades and print-patterns. This type is limited to coarse and medium-size yarns. Denim is commonly made through this process.
Air-jet spinning
In this method of spinning, it uses compressed air to aide in the spinning process. One end of the fiber is pushed toward the center of the yarn and the other end to the outside to wind around other fibers. This process is very fast with production twice that of open-end production and 20 times faster than ring spinning. The fibers are more securely locked into the yarn, don not slide as easily, and exhibit less fuzz. Though they have less uniformity, are limited t coarse yarn sizes, and have a lower yarn strength. Fabric shows fewer pills and does not show wear easily. Ideal for sheets, active wear, uniforms, and sweatshirts.
Blended yarn
A yarn made of two or more fiber types.
Mixture
A fabric composed of two or more different types of yarn.
Chenille yarns
These yarns have a soft pile protruding from their surface and resembles pipe cleaners without the wire. They are soft, supple, and very flexible. These are made by slitting narrow lengths from 1/8” to 1/4” of a fabric that has been woven for this purpose. It is a leno-effect weave. Commonly made from cotton, wool, or rayon.
Metallic yarns
These yarns are ribbon like or elliptical in cross-section as are other yarns. Can increase strength and abrasion resistance.
Woven fabrics
These types of fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other.
Warp beam
This part of the loom is located at the back and is a large roller on which all the warp yarns to be used fo the fabric are parallel to each other.
Harness
A part of the loom that looks like a picture frame that holds many thinvertical wires called heddles. The sequence in which it is raised or lowered determines the weave.
Heddles
A piece of the loom that is within the harness that holds thin, vertical wires.
Shed
A v-like opening on a loom.
Reed
A comb-like device on a loom that pushes the filling yarn in the shed into the body of the cloth.
Shuttle
A wooden device with a bobbin placed inside with filling yarn wound around it. The filling yarn unwinds from the bobbin through this, leaving a trail of yarn behind.
Shuttleless
This gets rid of a piece of the loom that allows the yarn comes directly from cones placed at the side of the loom.
Projectile loom
This type of loom uses a projectile to insert the filling yarns. It is small, light gripper devic that is propelled across the loom, pulling the filling yarn behind it. It can produce fabrics of a variety of widths: 75-213”. It can produce sheeting,denim, and carpet.A strain is placed on the filling yarn thus making it unsuited for weaving. Has a 400 ppm.
Rapier loom
This loom uses a rapier rod or steel tape to pull the filling yarn across the loom or a double rapier where the filling yarn is transferred at the midway point from one rapier to the other. It is used to produce high-quality wool and silk fabrics.
Jet loom
This type of loom takes the filling yarn across the loom by using a high-speed jet of either air or water. The force of the air or water carries the yarn from one side to the other. These are faster (higher picks per minute), but they cannot produce a great variety of fabrics (no heavy and bulky yarns) nor wide fabrics because they have less carrying power. Less damage is done to the warp yarns because there is no abrasion of this yarn by the jets.
Multiphase looms
This type of loom offers enormous output for light to medium weight fabrics. Multiple sheds are used that operate seperately across the loom instead of only one shed. Can produce fabric at a rate of 2800 ppm with a weft insertion rate of 6015 yards/minute. It is used for staple fabrics of basic weaves, such as plain, rib, or basic twills.
Selvage
A lengthwise edge of a fabric. It is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 inch wide and exists on both edges of the cloth. The main purpose of this ot ensure that the edge of the fabric will not year when the cloth is undergoing stress and strain of the finishing process. It is usually left as a finished edge on sheets and bath towels.
Weave float
When one yarn does not interlace with the next adjacent yarn, but passes over two or more adjacent yarns. These tend to makes the fabric surface flat and incresases the amount of luster. When it is long, snagging can occur and it weakens the fabric because it reduces the frequency with which yarns pass from one side of the fabric to the to the other.
Plain weave
This type of weave is the simplest and the most used weave. The fabrics that are typically made with this are reversiable unless one side is made the face by a finishing or printing process. Examples of fabrics: gauze, chiffon, chambray, canvas, and chintz. This requires only two harnesses. The tearing strength is lower than any other weave and it wrinkles easily.
Ribbed plain weave
This is a type of plain weave that is produced because the filling yarns are thicker than the warp yarns. This weave may have problems because the filling yarn that makes the main part of the weave is bulky by having little twist and due to being protruded, it can wear easily.
Basket weave
A plain-weave variation that is made by having groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of tow more more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn. They interlace in a plain weave sequence. It is a decorative weave.
Twill weave
This type of weave produces diagonal lines on the cloth. In the right-hand version of this, the diagonals run upward to the right and the left-hand type where the lines run upward to the left. The pattern on the back is opposite to the front. Most of these take six or less harnesses. Every warp yarn interlaces in the same order.
Broken twill weave
This twill weave combines left and right hadn twills and is made from a regular twill weave in which it is woven one direction, but then is woven another. A well known pattern created from this chevron and herringbone.
Satin weave
In this weave, there is only one interlacing for each warp yarn, and only one interlacing for each filling yarn in each repeat of the weave. No two interlacing are ever touch or are adjacent. In a warp face type, the face is predominately warp. A filling face has filling yarns predominatley on the face.
Sateen
This fabric is a durable cotton fabric usually with a filling-face satin weave. It is not as lusterous as satin because spun yarns are used. It is also less drapable because made with thicker yarns.
Crepe-back satin
In this type of satin, the warp yarns are fine and have little to no twist, and the fillin gyarns are highly twisted. The face is almost entirely warp yarns and the back is almost entirely filling yarns. Because of the high twist, the filling gives the back a crepe or pebbly appeaerance and leaves the face fairly smooth.
Leno weave
With this type of weave, the warp yarns twist back and forth ini pairs around each pick, fimrly holding the filling filling yarn in the figure-eight loops formed.
Woven-pile fabrics
This is a material that has a raised hairlike or furlike surface. Fabric types include velvet and terry cloth. The surface is produced with an extrea set of yarns known as pile yarns.
Warp-pile fabrics
This fabric has an extra set of warp yarns.
Filling-pile fabrics
This fabric has an extra set of filling yarns.
Cut-pile weave fabric
This fabric has cut pile yarns. The yarns are cut to form many cut ends, which point up on the surface of the cloth and form the pile. Velvet is an example.
Napped fabric
This fabric is fibrous surface produced by brushing up fibers on the cloth during a finishing process.
W-shape
This type of cut-pile is more firmly held in place because it interlaces with three yarns. Has two pile ends for every three interlacings.
V-shape
This type of cut-pile interlaces with one yarn and has two pile ends for each interlacing.
Dobby pattern
A design that contains simple geometric form sor motifs. It is made with a dobby head.
Dobby loom
This special loom uses computer controlled mechanisms to determine which harnesses are raised or lowered.
Jacquard pattern
A design that contains very detailed, intricate motifs.
Circular knitting machine
This knit machine produces knits where the needles are stored in a circular configuration and the fabric is produced in a tubular form. The diameter ranges from 2.5”-30”.
Flat knitting machine
This knit machine has knitting needles in a straight line, producing fabrics in an open width.
Floats
One yarn does not interlace, but passes over two or more adjacent yarns.
Uncut pile weave
This type of fabric has ground warp and filing yarns plus an extra set of warp yarns for the pile, in the form of loops on the surface of the cloth. Example: Terrycloth
Color and weave effect
This pattern is produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of differently colored yarns in both the warp and the filing. Example: houndstooth
Courses
Rows of stitches running along the weft.
Wales
Rows of stitches running along the warp.
Face
The side of which there are more knit stitches.
Three types of woven fabrics
Chambray, brocade, taffetta
Three types of knitted fabrics
Argyle, brid’s eye, cable-stitch
Twill
A woven consturction with a diagonal pattern on the back and is non-reviersible.
Ribbed
A knitted construction with stitches on both sides and is reversible. When stretched horizontally, you can see the stitches.
Raschel
A knitted construction with a miss stitch (v-shape) and is decorative. Commonly seen on lace. Has 4-50 guide bars.
Purl
A knitted construction with alternating rows of knit and purl stitch in the horizantal direction. There is an alternate stictch course by course.
Satin
A woven construction that has a five shaft warp/filling weave and has long floats, making it shiney.
Tricot
A knitted construction that is a warp knit and has a chevron pattern on the back.
Best insulator
Knit because the spaces trap small non-moving air. Woven because it has smaller holes that trap air when it’s windy.
Most Durable
Woven because it has two yarns and fewer loops to snag.
Most wrinkle resistant
Knit because it is more flexible.
Best for rain
Woven because it has compact spaces.
Easier to sew
Woven because it has fewer loops, is tighter, and doesn’t curl.
Direction - 1 yarn
What do we mean when we use the term “weft” in the context of knitting?
Yarn - 2 yarns
What do we mean when we use the term “weft” in the context of weaving?
Wales
This characteristic of knit is parallel to the warp (top - bottom).
Courses
This characteristic of knit is parallel to the weft (runs left to right).
Woven
Which fabrinc is better fo a crisp hand?
Knit
Which fabric is better for a soft hand?
Knitting
The interlooping of one yarn.
Weaving
The interlooping of two yarns.
Weft knits
This type of knit stretches in length and width (though more in width), may run or ravel, has a rapid machine changeover to new designs, and production maybe circular or flat and produces yardage, shaped garments, garment parts, and finished edges.
Warp knits
This type of knit has limited stretch (some in width, but less in length), does not run or ravel easily, has a slower machine changeover and is more costly oto new designs, has a flat prodcution and produces yardage only.
Filling or weft knit
One yarn or yarn set. Forms a serios of interlocking loops across the width of the fabvric. May be single or double; flat or circular. Typically used in sweaters and hoisery.
Warp knit
Yarns interloop in a vertical direciton with each yarn fed to a corresponding needle extending the width of the machine. Produced flat. Typically used in lingerie.
Wale
Vertical columns of stitches.
Course
Horizontal row of stitches.
Cut or gauge
Fineness of the stich measured by the mumber of needles in a specific space in the needle bar. In hand knitting, gauge is determined by the size of yarn and the size of the needle.
Density
Wales per inch by courses per inch.
Techinical face
Outer side of fabric as knitted.
Purl
Half mon appearance on back of plain jersey stitch.
Chevron
Horizontal v-shape appearance on back of plain tricot stitch.
Run or ladder
Stitches in a wale collapose or pull out crating a defect in the knit fabric. Most likely to occur in filament filling knits.
Named for construction
Knit fabric names
Handknitting
A weft procedure.
Jersey Knit
This type of knit is made on both a flat and circular knitting machine. It has a different face thatn the back (the back being more textured).
What can be done for a pattern on knits?
Remove some of the needles.
Felt
This is a nonwoven that is formed with wool and must go through heat, agitation, and moisture. To be considered this, it must have a concentartion of 50%-100% wool or animal hair. Example: Billiard-table covers.
Durable
Materials that are not intended to be thrown away after a single or limited number of applications. Example: apparel interlinings, carpet backing, and subsoil covers.
Disposable
Materials that are manufactured with the intention of being thrown away after a single or limited number of uses. Example: surgical gowns, filters, and diapers.
Drylaid
A way to produce nonwoven fabrics where the material structure is formed by having the fibers manipulated while in a dry state. This is most used. Includes carded and airlaid.
Wetlaid
A way to produce nonwoven fabrics where the material structure is formed by having the fibers manipulated in a wet state. This is the least used.
Spunlaid
A way to produce nonwoven fabrics where the material structure is formed by blowing thermoplastic fibers onto a collection surface as the fibers are being extruded. These can be bonded mechanically, chemically, and thermal.
Bonded
This method of combining nonwoven fabrics is layered in which a face fabric is joined to a backing fabric with an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of the combined fabrics. The backing is often tricot, white the face can by anything.
Laminated
This method of combining nonwoven fabrics is layered in which a face fabric is joined to a continous sheet material, such as plyurethane foam or nonwoven.
Carded web nonwoven
This type of nonwoven were the first nonwovens, produced early in the 1940’s. The largest volume of nonwovens is made using this method. It is produced by forming a web of fibers and then bonding the fibers. The main aspect is formed by using mechanical means such as carding, air blowing, or liquid. They are used in cook’s hats, protective gowns, and disposable sheets.
Spunlaced nonwoven
This type of nonwoven is formed by the entanglement of stpale fibers, using needlelike, high-pressure water jets on the web (wetlaid). This fibers knot or curl around each other, causing mechanical binding. End use: robes, matress pads, and mops.
Spunbonded nonwovens
This type of nonwoven is made form the ocntinous extrusion of filaments into a web. They consist of randomly oreiented filament fibers consolidated by thermal bonding, mechanical entanglement, adhesive bonding, or etched filament surfaces to interlock them. This method produces the second largest amount of nonwovens.
Melt-blown nonwovens
This type of nonwoven is produced in a process similar to spunbonded in that fiber extrusion is used. However, up on passage through the spinnerette, the molten polymer is accelerated by high-velocity hit-air jets hta treduce the filaments to microdenier size. The individual filament fibers break into staple fibers and are propelled to a collection surface.
Needle-punched nonwovens
This type of nonwoven is sometimes called mechanical felt, but unlike felt these can be made from any staple fiber. The process involves the entanglement of ifbers to hold them together. End uses: blankets, and appareal insulation.
