Color Notecards Flashcards
Colorfastness
The ability of a color to reamin unchanged when exposed to various use factors.
Dyestuff
A soluble organic compound that penetrate and bond chemically to the fiber.
Pigment
An insoluble particle that is held mechanically on the surface of the fabric with a bonding agent or one introduced into the spinning solution of a manufactured fiber and trapped within.
Solution-dyed
Tdyes or pigments that are added to the spinning solution before the manufactured fibers are extracted from the spinerette.
Stock-dyed
Dyes are added to loose fibers before hearn is formed. This gives it a heathering effect.
Yarn-dyed
Dyes are added after yarns are formed and before fabric is produced.
Piece-dyed
Dyes are added after fabric is produced.
Cross-dyed
Piece dyed fabrics of different generic fibers such as cotton and plyester or of acid dyeable/basic dyeable fibers of the same generic group such as polyester resulting in a fabric of more than one color.
Union-dyed
Piece-dyed fabrics containing more than one fiber type resulting in a solid color. Method requires different types of dyes that react with each fiber in the fabric to achieve the same color.
Garment or product dyed
Dyes are added after the product has been manufactured.
Direct print
Color is applied directly to the fabric in the desired location.
Discharge print
The fabric piece is first piece dyed an dhten color is removed in the selected design areas. There is the same shade on the front as the back, the print is a different color than the bac, and there are traces of the background color on the back of the print.
Resist Print
Color absorbption is blocked by various means before dyeing. Examples: batik, tie-dye, ikat, screen, and stencil. Usually crafted, not created on a production basis.
Heat-trasnfer print
Design is first printed on paper with dyes that will transfer from the paper to the fabric using heat and pressure.
Bleeding
Color loss due to wet treatment.
Crocking
Color loss due to rubbing or abrasion.
Migration
Shifting of color to an adjacent area or surface.
Frosting
Abrasion removes the outside colored portion of fibers or yarns exposing the undyed inner portion or in blended fabrics, the less durable fiber is abraded away exposing the more durable fiber that may be of a different or lighter color.
Depth of Shade
Darkness or lightness of a color.
First step in the dyeing process
Before this, the fibers are cleaned and then dy molecules adhere to the fiber.
Second step in the dyeing process
The penetrates the fiber.
Third step in the dyeing process
The dye migrates into the fiber.
Fourth step in the dyeing process
The fiber and the dye completely dries.
Fifth step in the dyeing process
Excess dye is removed.
Substrate
Fiber, yarn, fabric, garment
Affinity
Dye capable of combining with a particular fiber.
Lab dip
A sample swatch of finished dyeing.
Trial and Error
The oldest method of dyeing.
Spectrometer
An instrument that measures the percentage of reflected light in a visible area.
Metamirism
When two colors match under one light condition, but it looks different in another light. Differences can occur in different dye compiliations or with different lighting.
Color matching book
Box-type device used to test for metamirism.
Stock dyeing
Dyeing fibers before it is spun into yarn. Can create the heather-effect, has the easisest dye penetration and is the most expensive.
Continous dyeing
Fabric travels through the dying process without stopping.
Printing
Dyeing in a localized, patterned area. You give the color and pattern.
Print paste
Thickened dyes or pigments that are used for printing.
Screen printing
Print paste is forced through the mesh area by a squeegee. Done three ways: hand screen, automatic screen, and rotary screen
Hand screen
A type of screen printing that was used by ancient cultures and today for small/limited quanitity in high fashion. Can also print tshirt designs.
Automatic screen
A type of screen printing where the fabric is moved to the screens on a wide rubberized belt. It is intermittent rather than a continous process. It moves and then stops for the squeegee injection. 500 yards per hour. Use for whole rolls of fabric only.
Rotary Screening
A type of screen printing that is continous since the screens are cylinder. The fabric being printed is moved on a wide rubber belt under the cylinders that in in continous motion. It is the fastest method of screen printing, with prodction of more than 120 yards oper minute. It can produce fine, shiney particles through the fram. It is also used for laminates and can apply finishes.
Roller printing
A high speed process of printing that is capable of producing more than 6,000 yards of printed fabric per hour. The design is put onto the fabric by copper engraved rollers. A paisley print is an example of what designs can be produced. There are high costs and long lead time. Used mianly for staple designs.
Screen and roller
How a wet print is applied. It’s an ageing process when the dye is used - exposes dye printed fabrics to boiling steam, followed by rinses and drying.
Pigment curing
How a dry print is applied. When the fabric is subjected to dry heat resin in the pigment.
Heat transfer print
The design is printed on a transfer paper, then prssed onto the fabric at 400 degree farheinheit.
Disperse Dyes
The only type of dye for heat transfer used on acetate, acrylic, nylon, and polyester.
Digital printing
This is the most efficent type of printing because microdrops of liquid ink are applied through tiny nozzles ino the fabric surface. It is typeically used for office printing, but has become a prominent part in textiles.
Why is digital printing more eco friendly?
It uses less energy and water while using water-based inks that are not solvent based.
Wet-on-dry
When a second color is printed on top of a previously printed color when the first color is dry.
Wet-on-wet
When a second color is printed directly over a first color that is still wet.
Fall-on
When a third color from the two colors mix.
Halftone
A gradual shading from light to dark in the same color of a pattern.
Roller printing changes
For this printing changes are made by the depth of the copper engravings.
Rotary-screen changees
For this type of printing, changes are made by changing the density of a screen’s perforations in the pattern.
Strike-off
A sample of first several sample yards printed for approval.
Permenant finishes
A finish that causes a chemical change in fiber structures and does not change throughout the life of the fabric.
Durable finish
A finish that lasts throughout the life of the article, but becomes diminished after each cleaning.
Semidurable finish
A finish that lasts through several launderings or dry cleanings. Can be removed.
Temporary finish
A finish that is removed or diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry-cleaned.
Desizing
A step in the pretreatment process where an enzyme solution dissalves yarn startch. Not for wovens.
Carbonizing
A step in the pretreatment process htat removes leaves and grass (woolen and worsted).
Singeing
A step in the pretreatment process that burns off projecting fibers of filament splinters.
Bleaching
A step in the pretreatment process for a fiber/fabric that may need to be white.
Calendaring
The process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed and under high pressure.
Overcalendaring
A process that puts the fabric under extensive pressure and gives it excellent luste and a weakened quality contorl issue.
Glazed calendaring
This process produces high sheen fabrics that are semidurable such as polished cotton and chintz.
Cire Calendaring
A process that produces highly lustrous fabrics to give it a “wet” look. It is also semidurable.
Embossed calendaring
A process that produces a 3-D design that is durable and permanent.
Moire calendaring
This process produces a wood grain design that is temorary or durable.
Schreiner calendaring
A pricess that produces a low, soft luster. It is temporary or durable.
