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Esthetic Science > Test 3- PowerPoints > Flashcards

Test 3- PowerPoints Flashcards

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1
Q

why should we have understanding of the chemicals 4

A

how it benefits and side effects- helps select

to educate clients and recommend use

to explain what they do, why, and expectations- confidence

remaining on top of the latest ingredients

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2
Q

who is responsible for ensuring safety of cosmetics

A

Food and drug administration

FDA

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3
Q

2 most important laws for cosmetics marketed

A

the federal food, drug and cosmetic act

the fair packaging and labelling act

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4
Q

does the FDA approve cosmetics

A

they do not approve before entering market

they only regulate in relation to safety, levelling, and claims

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5
Q

how does the law define a cosmetic

A

articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, applied to body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.

intended affect appearance of the skin

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6
Q

how does the law define a drug

A

articles intended for using in diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease

articles intended to affect function or structure of the body

intended to cause physiological change- structure and function of skin

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7
Q

cosmeceutical

A

a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

professional grade skin care/makeup that contains pharmaceutical-grade ingredients

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8
Q

what must product labels list

A

company name

location/distribution point

all ingredients

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9
Q

how must ingredients be listed on product 4

A

descending order of predominance

highest to lowest concentration

concentration less than 1% can be any order

fragrance must be listed as fragrance - particular ingredients don’t

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10
Q

INCI

A

international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient

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11
Q

who is INCI allocated by

A

American cosmetic association
and personal care products council

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12
Q

what format are ingredients listed and why

A

INCI

consistently listed using same ingredient name product to product - to easily compare

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13
Q

adverse reactions

A

many ingredients can cause adverse reactions

fragrances, some preservatives, chemical sunscreen are most common

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14
Q

symptoms of irritant reaction

A

burning

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15
Q

symptoms of allergic reaction

A

tching, inflammation, blisters, hives, rashes, eye swelling, puff, tear

can be detected immediately or in days/weeks

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16
Q

patch test

A

pretest small quantity of product on inside of arm, elbow, or behind ear

if reacts within 24hrs avoid use

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17
Q

how to handle an adverse reaction

A

immediately remove product, rinse the skin with cold water, apply cool compress until skin calms

have products to calm skin reactions

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18
Q

if client has reaction requiring medical treatment 2

A

the manufacture is responsible- unless product was purchased in bulk, repackaged by salon & resold- salon is in fault

malpractice insurance does not cover products formulated/repackaged in salon

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19
Q

if client has adverse reaction to homeware products reccomended

A

advise to discontinue use immediately

may choose to use over the counter hydrocortisone cream

if reaction is serious- seek medical care and bring product with them

manufacturer of product should be notified

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20
Q

ingredients derived naturally

A

from natural sources; plants, vitamins, animals

can have powerful skin benefits

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21
Q

ingredients derived from synthetic sources

A

made in lab from chemical compounds

can be just as effective with certain advantages- no pesticides and no ecological foot print

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22
Q

hyaluronic acid; natural and synthetic

A

natural- from rooster combs

synthetic- used in cosmetics, more stable, more effective water binding technology

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23
Q

popular terms

A

are not regulated by law but used as descriptive words for marketing

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24
Q

natural/all natural

A

often used for skincare product and ingredients derived from natural sources

no specific legal definition so used loosely s

seemed by consumers avoiding chemical free products- but all life forms are made of chemicals.t

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25
Q

toxic ingredients

A

can be from natural and synthetic sources

many resources to easily find toxicity ratings of ingredients

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26
Q

organic

A

describes natural-sourced ingredients grown without use of pesticides or chemicals

becoming more popular

FDA does not define or regulate term applying to cosmetic, body care, personal care products.

only regulation for term is USDA- us department of agriculture

if products contains agricultural ingredients and meets certain standards it may be eligible certified organic under National Organic Program regulations

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27
Q

cruelty free

A

term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process

no ingredients tested on animals

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28
Q

vegan

A

no animal ingredients or animal by products

includes honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen.

term is not regulated and often used to note product does not contain animal ingredients, but may still contain by products

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29
Q

gluten

A

general name for proteins found in wheat, rye and triticale

celiac disease, gluten sensitivity, and intolerance are on the rise

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30
Q

Celiac disease

A

autoimmune disorder where eating gluten caused the lining of small intestine become inflamed

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31
Q

gluten free product

A

no scientific evidence product with gluten is harmful unless ingested used on lips or in mouth

wheat and other grain allergies can cause reaction.

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32
Q

what are gluten source ingredients labelled as

A

hydrolyzed wheat protein

tritium vulgare oil/extract (wheat germ)

wheat amino acids

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33
Q

how to get gluten free claim

A

FDA an organizations concerned with food standards have set thresholds

less than 20 parts per million of gluten (ppm)

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34
Q

hypoallergenic

A

`dermatologist tested and nonirritating terms often used

described ingredients or products less likely to cause allergic reaction

not a guarantee

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35
Q

non comedogenic

A

refers to ingredients that will not clog pores

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36
Q

fragrance free

A

doesn’t mean no smell

indicates no additional ingredients have been added to the product to specially provide a fragrance

may already contain ingredients with a scent (lavender for different benefits but fragrant)

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37
Q

unscented

A

products formulated to have no smell

most ingredients have odour so more are added to mask and neutralize smell

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38
Q

functional ingredients

A

do not affect appearance of skin but needed for formulation of product

can be vehicles to spread, add body or texture, give form-lotion, cream, gel.

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39
Q

common functional ingredients 10

A

water

emollients

surfactants

delivery system

preservatives

fragrance

color agents

thickeners

pH adjusters

solvents

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40
Q

performance ingredients

A

cause actual change to the appearance of the skin

ingredients the moisturize, exfoliate smooth surface.
aka active ingredients (drug industry) - chemically cause physiological change

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41
Q

ingredients- water (category and purpose) 3

A

category- functional and/or performance

purpose- as functional
- keeps ingredients in a solution acting as a vehicle

purpose- as performance
- replenished moisture on surface

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42
Q

products that do not contain water name and examples 3

A

anhydrous

oil based serums, silicone serums, petrolatum based

aloe vera often used as vehicle instead of water

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43
Q

ingredients - emollients (category and purpose) 7 total

A

category- functional and performance

purpose- as functional
- help place , spread and keep other substances on the skin

purpose as performance-
- lubricates skin and guard the barrier function
- one of most common performance
- made of lipids (fat, oil, wax)
- prevent dehydration

rich or light in consistency

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44
Q

types of emollients 5

A

oils from mineral sources (earth) or botanical sources (plants)

silicones

fatty acids

fatty alcohols

fatty esters

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45
Q

oil from mineral sources 4

A

fro the earth- highly redefined and purified petroleum sources

non reactive and biologically inert

can be used with no added preservatives

liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum

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46
Q

oils from botanical sources 3

A

from plants

vary in fatty acid content and heaviness

coconut oil, palm oil, organ oil,, and hemp seed oil

47
Q

fatty acid emollient 3

A

lubricant derived from plant oils or animal fats

no irritating

oleic acid, stearic acid

48
Q

fatty alcohol emollient’s 3

A

fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

not drying, wax-like consistency

acetyl and lauryl, sterile alcohols

49
Q

fatty ester emollient’s 3

A

combined fatty acids and fatty alcohols

often feel better than natural oils and lubricate evenly

glycerol stearate, isopropyl my striate

50
Q

delivery systems category and purpose 2

A

category- functional ingredient

purpose-
- used to distribute a products key performance ingredients into skin once applied

51
Q

delivery systems; polymers 2

A

chemical compounds formed by several small molecules .

used in advanced vehicles that release ingredients onto skin surface at microscopically controlled rate

52
Q

delivery systems- liposomes 2

A

fluid like spheres filled with performance ingredients.

brings ingredients to targeted depth of skin and slowly releases protecting quality and integrity

53
Q

delivery systems-vehicles1

A

include formaldehyde releaser and parabens

54
Q

preservatives - antioxidants1

A

extends the shelf life of a product and reduces rate of oxidization

55
Q

preservatives- chelating agents 1

A

boosts efficacy of preservatives by breaking down cell walls of bacteria and other organisms

56
Q

fragrances category and purpose 2

A

category- functional ingredient

purpose-
- mask, neutralize, improve unpleasant smells

57
Q

types of fragrances 3

A

synthetic- combining chemical ingredients- listed as fragrance

natural - botanicals comprise basic elements of natural scents . aromatherapy (highly concentrated)

aromatherapy - derived from ancient practices of using natural plant to promote health and well-being

58
Q

thickener category and purpose 2

A

category - functional

purpose -
- gives specific consistency

59
Q

pH adjusters category and function 2

A

category- functional

purpose - buffering/stabalizing products to prevent changes in pH- acids and alkaline used to adjust

60
Q

solvents category and purpose 2

A

A
category- functional

purpose -
- added to help dissolve other ingredients

61
Q

exfoliation ingredients category and function 3

A

category - performance

purpose- exfoliate- brightening, penetration
- mechanic or chemical (dissolve dead skin cells) ingredients to exfoliate

62
Q

lighteners and brighteners category and purpose 3

A

category- performance

purpose-
brightening- provide.maintain natural radiance and glow
lightening- improve discolouration in skin

63
Q

humectants, hydrators and hydrophilic agents 1

A

ingredients that attract water to skins surface

64
Q

antioxidants 2

A

effective for all skin types and conditions

protects from : free radicals and pollution, stress, uv and blue light

65
Q

vitamin A 1

A

antioxidant

66
Q

vitamin C 1

A

stimulates collagen

67
Q

vitamin E 1

A

strengthens skin natural barrie

68
Q

b vitamins 1

A

deeply hydrate soothe and heal

69
Q

vitamin k 2

A

improve stretch marks, spider veins, scars

also good eye area product

70
Q

minerals 1

A

optimal health and functioning

71
Q

peptides 5

A

brightening,
barrier function,
hydration,
reduce swelling under eyes,
antimicrobial

72
Q

ceramides 3

A

restore moisture,
reinforce skin barrier and help against harm
restore lipids

73
Q

botanical oils 2 and plant stem cells 3

A

rich in essential fatty acids ,
healthy barrier functions

plant stem cells - protect stem cells from UV stress, inflammation, free radicals

74
Q

probiotics 2

A

latest breakthrough for one, rosacea and eczema

balance and retain healthy bacteria

75
Q

growth factors/cytokines 4

A

protein ingredients regulate cell growth

tissue repair and regeneration

important part in healing and maintaining healthy skin, elasticity, firmness

sources can come from human cells grown in labs or plants

76
Q

ingredients for all skin types 4

A

daily ingredients- antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and physical sunscreen ingredients

77
Q

treatment 1 and ingredients 3 for combination skin

A

treatment- maintain healthy balance of water and oil

ingredients- emollients, humectants, oil balancing/regulating

78
Q

treatment 2 and ingredients 2 for dehydrated skin

A

treatments- restore internal skin hydration and prevent tewl

ingredients - humectants, light to rich emollients based on skin type

79
Q

treatment 3 and ingredients 3 for dry skin

A

treatment- provide moisture, replenishing and skin restoring ingredients

ingredients- ceramides, emollients, humectants

80
Q

treatment 4 and ingredients 5 for oily skin

A

treatment- reduce activity of oil glands, promote oil-water balance, prevent clogged pores

ingredients- hydroxy acids, humectants/light emollients, oil balancing/regulating, clarifying, detoxifying

81
Q

treatments 5 and ingredients 10 for acne/problem skin

A

treatments- reduce overactivity of oil glands, promote oil-water balance, prevent clogged pores, inhibit bacteria, reduce inflammation

ingredients- antibacterial, antiinflammatory, soothing, humectant/light emollients, oil balance, clarifying, detoxifying, retinoids, topical probiotics

82
Q

treatments 3 and ingredients 4 for hyperpigmentation

A

treatment- reduce inflammation, reduce pigment areas, minimize melanin production

ingredients - anti-inflammatory, soothing, retinoid, lighteners/brighteners

83
Q

treatment 4 and ingredients 6 for mature/aging

A

treatment- address skin condition, increase collagen synthesis, improve appearance

ingredients- ceramides, humectants/emolients, growth factors, vitamin C, peptides and retinoids

84
Q

surfactant category and purpose

A

category- functional

reduce tension between skin and product and increase ability to spread

cleansing agents, foaming agents

emulsifiers creating stable mixture of oil and water

85
Q

types of surfactants - detergents

A

A
main type used primarily in cleansing products

cause foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup and debris from surface.

gentle detergents can be derived from natural sources - coconut

86
Q

types of surfactants- emulsifiers

A

cause oil and water to mix

without oil and water would separate

surround oil particles allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout water

two types- oil-in-water (O/W more hydrating products) and water-in-oil (W/O rich moisturizers)

87
Q

colours subject to certification

A

subject to FDA batch certification

synthetic organic dyes, lakes, pigments

synthesized from raw materials obtained from petroleum

listed as D&C (drug and cosmetic) or FD&C (food drug cosmetic)

88
Q

colours exempt from certification

A

obtained primarily from mineral, plant, animal sources

not subject to FDA batch certification requirements - still artificial colours

when used with cosmetics or FDA products must comply to labeling requirements

89
Q

lakes

A

insoluble pigments preventing leaking - lipstick

combines dyes with inorganic materials

90
Q

FDA labelling requirement for sunscreen

A

term sunblock cannot me used - no product 100% blocks

cannot label waterproof/sweatproof would overstate effectiveness

cannot claim to protect for more than 2hrs without reapplication, or protect immediately after - with our data to support and FDA approval

91
Q

greenwashing

A

claim to deceive consumers into believing that a company products are environmentally friendly - misleading ads

spending more money/time on marketing then minimizing foot print

unethical ingredient source, child labour, use of harmful ingredients, animal testing, excessive packaging.

92
Q

used terms of greenwashing

A

recycled packaging

energy saving benefits

organic

vegan

cruelty free

93
Q

greenwashing- packaging and advertising

A

should explain green claims in plain language and readable type near claim

94
Q

environmental marketing claim

A

should specify whether it refers to product, packaging, or portion of product/packaging

95
Q

what regulations govern corporate greenwashing in canada

A

federal competition act

textile labelling act

consumer packaging and labelling act - making false/misleading representations

96
Q

branding influence

A

brand building
brand value
brand promise
brand image

97
Q

factors that influence packaging

A

colour

shape

type of material

quality

design

use

stimulates impulsive buying

98
Q

glass packaging

A

non toxic and non pours

made if natural materials

recyclable

shipping more costly due to weight

99
Q

plastic packaging

A

inexpensive

lightweight

formed in various shapes

more resistance

reduce cost of transport

100
Q

metal packaging

A

add value to product

protect against oxidation, bacterial/fungal contamination

easily turned usable

metal can get distorted

101
Q

benzene

A

ingredient that is man made and natural chemical

toxic chemical can be found in products people use ; dry shampoos, deodorants, antiperspirants, sunscreen, cigs gas, sanitizer etc.

102
Q

natural benzene

A

chemical toxin found by erupting volcanoes, smoke from forest fires, and certain plants or animals

103
Q

man-made benzene

A

found with cosmetics, motor fuels, medications and pesticides

colourless light yellow in liquid form at room temperature

104
Q

oxybenzone

A

in sunscreen

shown to be toxic for coral reefs, marine life, and humans.

105
Q

microbeads

A

tiny plastic particles (5mm)

drain into water bodies and attracts toxins

marine life consumes and humans eating fish consume

106
Q

packaging carbon foot print

A

beauty products produce 120 billion units packaging per year

impact of energy used in production and transport (carbon footprint) ingredients to finished goods

wet wipes and face masks - mix of fabric and plastic

107
Q

palm oil

A

used in cosmetics for moisture and texture

derivatives are glycerol, fatty acids/alcohols, emollient/foaming properties

in over 70% cosmetics leading to 5% tropical deforestation

108
Q

makeup wipes

A

bad for skin and environment

strip oils and pH

nonbiodegradeable

109
Q

beauty supply products

A

longer she life and refillable option- eliminate single use plastics

nature theme is marketing

make sure eco logos are trustworthy

110
Q

bamboo

A

renewable resource

grows rapidly 3ft a day

35% more oxygen than trees

don’t need to be replanted

doesn’t consume too much water carbon-neutral, renewable

bamboo pads- gentle on skin

111
Q

ethical elephant

A

ethical consumer guide

112
Q

ingredients hotlist

A

Ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane are prohibited on health Canadas cosmetic ingredient hot list

113
Q

cosmetic notification

A

manufacturers and importers MUST FILE COSMETIC NOTIFICATION WITH HEALTH CANADA within 10 days of first sale in Canada

failure to do so can lead to product removal or denied entry

114
Q

cosmetic notification involves submitting:

A

ingredients

labels

other information

do not entail evaluation or approval

Esthetic Science (4 decks)

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