Test 3- PowerPoints Flashcards
why should we have understanding of the chemicals 4
how it benefits and side effects- helps select
to educate clients and recommend use
to explain what they do, why, and expectations- confidence
remaining on top of the latest ingredients
who is responsible for ensuring safety of cosmetics
Food and drug administration
FDA
2 most important laws for cosmetics marketed
the federal food, drug and cosmetic act
the fair packaging and labelling act
does the FDA approve cosmetics
they do not approve before entering market
they only regulate in relation to safety, levelling, and claims
how does the law define a cosmetic
articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, applied to body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.
intended affect appearance of the skin
how does the law define a drug
articles intended for using in diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease
articles intended to affect function or structure of the body
intended to cause physiological change- structure and function of skin
cosmeceutical
a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals
professional grade skin care/makeup that contains pharmaceutical-grade ingredients
what must product labels list
company name
location/distribution point
all ingredients
how must ingredients be listed on product 4
descending order of predominance
highest to lowest concentration
concentration less than 1% can be any order
fragrance must be listed as fragrance - particular ingredients don’t
INCI
international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient
who is INCI allocated by
American cosmetic association
and personal care products council
what format are ingredients listed and why
INCI
consistently listed using same ingredient name product to product - to easily compare
adverse reactions
many ingredients can cause adverse reactions
fragrances, some preservatives, chemical sunscreen are most common
symptoms of irritant reaction
burning
symptoms of allergic reaction
tching, inflammation, blisters, hives, rashes, eye swelling, puff, tear
can be detected immediately or in days/weeks
patch test
pretest small quantity of product on inside of arm, elbow, or behind ear
if reacts within 24hrs avoid use
how to handle an adverse reaction
immediately remove product, rinse the skin with cold water, apply cool compress until skin calms
have products to calm skin reactions
if client has reaction requiring medical treatment 2
the manufacture is responsible- unless product was purchased in bulk, repackaged by salon & resold- salon is in fault
malpractice insurance does not cover products formulated/repackaged in salon
if client has adverse reaction to homeware products reccomended
advise to discontinue use immediately
may choose to use over the counter hydrocortisone cream
if reaction is serious- seek medical care and bring product with them
manufacturer of product should be notified
ingredients derived naturally
from natural sources; plants, vitamins, animals
can have powerful skin benefits
ingredients derived from synthetic sources
made in lab from chemical compounds
can be just as effective with certain advantages- no pesticides and no ecological foot print
hyaluronic acid; natural and synthetic
natural- from rooster combs
synthetic- used in cosmetics, more stable, more effective water binding technology
popular terms
are not regulated by law but used as descriptive words for marketing
natural/all natural
often used for skincare product and ingredients derived from natural sources
no specific legal definition so used loosely s
seemed by consumers avoiding chemical free products- but all life forms are made of chemicals.t
toxic ingredients
can be from natural and synthetic sources
many resources to easily find toxicity ratings of ingredients
organic
describes natural-sourced ingredients grown without use of pesticides or chemicals
becoming more popular
FDA does not define or regulate term applying to cosmetic, body care, personal care products.
only regulation for term is USDA- us department of agriculture
if products contains agricultural ingredients and meets certain standards it may be eligible certified organic under National Organic Program regulations
cruelty free
term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process
no ingredients tested on animals
vegan
no animal ingredients or animal by products
includes honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen.
term is not regulated and often used to note product does not contain animal ingredients, but may still contain by products
gluten
general name for proteins found in wheat, rye and triticale
celiac disease, gluten sensitivity, and intolerance are on the rise
Celiac disease
autoimmune disorder where eating gluten caused the lining of small intestine become inflamed
gluten free product
no scientific evidence product with gluten is harmful unless ingested used on lips or in mouth
wheat and other grain allergies can cause reaction.
what are gluten source ingredients labelled as
hydrolyzed wheat protein
tritium vulgare oil/extract (wheat germ)
wheat amino acids
how to get gluten free claim
FDA an organizations concerned with food standards have set thresholds
less than 20 parts per million of gluten (ppm)
hypoallergenic
`dermatologist tested and nonirritating terms often used
described ingredients or products less likely to cause allergic reaction
not a guarantee
non comedogenic
refers to ingredients that will not clog pores
fragrance free
doesn’t mean no smell
indicates no additional ingredients have been added to the product to specially provide a fragrance
may already contain ingredients with a scent (lavender for different benefits but fragrant)
unscented
products formulated to have no smell
most ingredients have odour so more are added to mask and neutralize smell
functional ingredients
do not affect appearance of skin but needed for formulation of product
can be vehicles to spread, add body or texture, give form-lotion, cream, gel.
common functional ingredients 10
water
emollients
surfactants
delivery system
preservatives
fragrance
color agents
thickeners
pH adjusters
solvents
performance ingredients
cause actual change to the appearance of the skin
ingredients the moisturize, exfoliate smooth surface.
aka active ingredients (drug industry) - chemically cause physiological change
ingredients- water (category and purpose) 3
category- functional and/or performance
purpose- as functional
- keeps ingredients in a solution acting as a vehicle
purpose- as performance
- replenished moisture on surface
products that do not contain water name and examples 3
anhydrous
oil based serums, silicone serums, petrolatum based
aloe vera often used as vehicle instead of water
ingredients - emollients (category and purpose) 7 total
category- functional and performance
purpose- as functional
- help place , spread and keep other substances on the skin
purpose as performance-
- lubricates skin and guard the barrier function
- one of most common performance
- made of lipids (fat, oil, wax)
- prevent dehydration
rich or light in consistency
types of emollients 5
oils from mineral sources (earth) or botanical sources (plants)
silicones
fatty acids
fatty alcohols
fatty esters
oil from mineral sources 4
fro the earth- highly redefined and purified petroleum sources
non reactive and biologically inert
can be used with no added preservatives
liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum
oils from botanical sources 3
from plants
vary in fatty acid content and heaviness
coconut oil, palm oil, organ oil,, and hemp seed oil
fatty acid emollient 3
lubricant derived from plant oils or animal fats
no irritating
oleic acid, stearic acid
fatty alcohol emollient’s 3
fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
not drying, wax-like consistency
acetyl and lauryl, sterile alcohols
fatty ester emollient’s 3
combined fatty acids and fatty alcohols
often feel better than natural oils and lubricate evenly
glycerol stearate, isopropyl my striate
delivery systems category and purpose 2
category- functional ingredient
purpose-
- used to distribute a products key performance ingredients into skin once applied
delivery systems; polymers 2
chemical compounds formed by several small molecules .
used in advanced vehicles that release ingredients onto skin surface at microscopically controlled rate
delivery systems- liposomes 2
fluid like spheres filled with performance ingredients.
brings ingredients to targeted depth of skin and slowly releases protecting quality and integrity
delivery systems-vehicles1
include formaldehyde releaser and parabens
preservatives - antioxidants1
extends the shelf life of a product and reduces rate of oxidization
preservatives- chelating agents 1
boosts efficacy of preservatives by breaking down cell walls of bacteria and other organisms
fragrances category and purpose 2
category- functional ingredient
purpose-
- mask, neutralize, improve unpleasant smells
types of fragrances 3
synthetic- combining chemical ingredients- listed as fragrance
natural - botanicals comprise basic elements of natural scents . aromatherapy (highly concentrated)
aromatherapy - derived from ancient practices of using natural plant to promote health and well-being
thickener category and purpose 2
category - functional
purpose -
- gives specific consistency
pH adjusters category and function 2
category- functional
purpose - buffering/stabalizing products to prevent changes in pH- acids and alkaline used to adjust
solvents category and purpose 2
A
category- functional
purpose -
- added to help dissolve other ingredients
exfoliation ingredients category and function 3
category - performance
purpose- exfoliate- brightening, penetration
- mechanic or chemical (dissolve dead skin cells) ingredients to exfoliate
lighteners and brighteners category and purpose 3
category- performance
purpose-
brightening- provide.maintain natural radiance and glow
lightening- improve discolouration in skin
humectants, hydrators and hydrophilic agents 1
ingredients that attract water to skins surface
antioxidants 2
effective for all skin types and conditions
protects from : free radicals and pollution, stress, uv and blue light
vitamin A 1
antioxidant
vitamin C 1
stimulates collagen
vitamin E 1
strengthens skin natural barrie
b vitamins 1
deeply hydrate soothe and heal
vitamin k 2
improve stretch marks, spider veins, scars
also good eye area product
minerals 1
optimal health and functioning
peptides 5
brightening,
barrier function,
hydration,
reduce swelling under eyes,
antimicrobial
ceramides 3
restore moisture,
reinforce skin barrier and help against harm
restore lipids
botanical oils 2 and plant stem cells 3
rich in essential fatty acids ,
healthy barrier functions
plant stem cells - protect stem cells from UV stress, inflammation, free radicals
probiotics 2
latest breakthrough for one, rosacea and eczema
balance and retain healthy bacteria
growth factors/cytokines 4
protein ingredients regulate cell growth
tissue repair and regeneration
important part in healing and maintaining healthy skin, elasticity, firmness
sources can come from human cells grown in labs or plants
ingredients for all skin types 4
daily ingredients- antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and physical sunscreen ingredients
treatment 1 and ingredients 3 for combination skin
treatment- maintain healthy balance of water and oil
ingredients- emollients, humectants, oil balancing/regulating
treatment 2 and ingredients 2 for dehydrated skin
treatments- restore internal skin hydration and prevent tewl
ingredients - humectants, light to rich emollients based on skin type
treatment 3 and ingredients 3 for dry skin
treatment- provide moisture, replenishing and skin restoring ingredients
ingredients- ceramides, emollients, humectants
treatment 4 and ingredients 5 for oily skin
treatment- reduce activity of oil glands, promote oil-water balance, prevent clogged pores
ingredients- hydroxy acids, humectants/light emollients, oil balancing/regulating, clarifying, detoxifying
treatments 5 and ingredients 10 for acne/problem skin
treatments- reduce overactivity of oil glands, promote oil-water balance, prevent clogged pores, inhibit bacteria, reduce inflammation
ingredients- antibacterial, antiinflammatory, soothing, humectant/light emollients, oil balance, clarifying, detoxifying, retinoids, topical probiotics
treatments 3 and ingredients 4 for hyperpigmentation
treatment- reduce inflammation, reduce pigment areas, minimize melanin production
ingredients - anti-inflammatory, soothing, retinoid, lighteners/brighteners
treatment 4 and ingredients 6 for mature/aging
treatment- address skin condition, increase collagen synthesis, improve appearance
ingredients- ceramides, humectants/emolients, growth factors, vitamin C, peptides and retinoids
surfactant category and purpose
category- functional
reduce tension between skin and product and increase ability to spread
cleansing agents, foaming agents
emulsifiers creating stable mixture of oil and water
types of surfactants - detergents
A
main type used primarily in cleansing products
cause foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup and debris from surface.
gentle detergents can be derived from natural sources - coconut
types of surfactants- emulsifiers
cause oil and water to mix
without oil and water would separate
surround oil particles allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout water
two types- oil-in-water (O/W more hydrating products) and water-in-oil (W/O rich moisturizers)
colours subject to certification
subject to FDA batch certification
synthetic organic dyes, lakes, pigments
synthesized from raw materials obtained from petroleum
listed as D&C (drug and cosmetic) or FD&C (food drug cosmetic)
colours exempt from certification
obtained primarily from mineral, plant, animal sources
not subject to FDA batch certification requirements - still artificial colours
when used with cosmetics or FDA products must comply to labeling requirements
lakes
insoluble pigments preventing leaking - lipstick
combines dyes with inorganic materials
FDA labelling requirement for sunscreen
term sunblock cannot me used - no product 100% blocks
cannot label waterproof/sweatproof would overstate effectiveness
cannot claim to protect for more than 2hrs without reapplication, or protect immediately after - with our data to support and FDA approval
greenwashing
claim to deceive consumers into believing that a company products are environmentally friendly - misleading ads
spending more money/time on marketing then minimizing foot print
unethical ingredient source, child labour, use of harmful ingredients, animal testing, excessive packaging.
used terms of greenwashing
recycled packaging
energy saving benefits
organic
vegan
cruelty free
greenwashing- packaging and advertising
should explain green claims in plain language and readable type near claim
environmental marketing claim
should specify whether it refers to product, packaging, or portion of product/packaging
what regulations govern corporate greenwashing in canada
federal competition act
textile labelling act
consumer packaging and labelling act - making false/misleading representations
branding influence
brand building
brand value
brand promise
brand image
factors that influence packaging
colour
shape
type of material
quality
design
use
stimulates impulsive buying
glass packaging
non toxic and non pours
made if natural materials
recyclable
shipping more costly due to weight
plastic packaging
inexpensive
lightweight
formed in various shapes
more resistance
reduce cost of transport
metal packaging
add value to product
protect against oxidation, bacterial/fungal contamination
easily turned usable
metal can get distorted
benzene
ingredient that is man made and natural chemical
toxic chemical can be found in products people use ; dry shampoos, deodorants, antiperspirants, sunscreen, cigs gas, sanitizer etc.
natural benzene
chemical toxin found by erupting volcanoes, smoke from forest fires, and certain plants or animals
man-made benzene
found with cosmetics, motor fuels, medications and pesticides
colourless light yellow in liquid form at room temperature
oxybenzone
in sunscreen
shown to be toxic for coral reefs, marine life, and humans.
microbeads
tiny plastic particles (5mm)
drain into water bodies and attracts toxins
marine life consumes and humans eating fish consume
packaging carbon foot print
beauty products produce 120 billion units packaging per year
impact of energy used in production and transport (carbon footprint) ingredients to finished goods
wet wipes and face masks - mix of fabric and plastic
palm oil
used in cosmetics for moisture and texture
derivatives are glycerol, fatty acids/alcohols, emollient/foaming properties
in over 70% cosmetics leading to 5% tropical deforestation
makeup wipes
bad for skin and environment
strip oils and pH
nonbiodegradeable
beauty supply products
longer she life and refillable option- eliminate single use plastics
nature theme is marketing
make sure eco logos are trustworthy
bamboo
renewable resource
grows rapidly 3ft a day
35% more oxygen than trees
don’t need to be replanted
doesn’t consume too much water carbon-neutral, renewable
bamboo pads- gentle on skin
ethical elephant
ethical consumer guide
ingredients hotlist
Ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane are prohibited on health Canadas cosmetic ingredient hot list
cosmetic notification
manufacturers and importers MUST FILE COSMETIC NOTIFICATION WITH HEALTH CANADA within 10 days of first sale in Canada
failure to do so can lead to product removal or denied entry
cosmetic notification involves submitting:
ingredients
labels
other information
do not entail evaluation or approval
