test 3 Flashcards
why should we have understanding of the chemicals 4
- how it benefits and side effects- helps select
- to educate clients and recommend use
- to explain what they do, why, and expectations- confidence
- remaining on top of the latest ingredients
who is responsible for ensuring safety of cosmetics
Food and drug administration
FDA
2 most important laws for cosmetics marketed
the federal food, drug and cosmetic act
the fair packaging and labelling act
does the FDA approve cosmetics
they do not approve before entering market
they only regulate in relation to safety, levelling, and claims
how does the law define a cosmetic
articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, applied to body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.
intended affect appearance of the skin
how does the law define a drug
articles intended for using in diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease
articles intended to affect function or structure of the body
intended to cause physiological change- structure and function of skin
cosmeceutical
a bridge between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals
professional grade skin care/makeup that contains pharmaceutical-grade ingredients
what must product labels list
company name
location/distribution point
all ingredients
how must ingredients be listed on product 4
descending order of predominance
highest to lowest concentration
concentration less than 1% can be any order
fragrance must be listed as fragrance - particular ingredients don’t.
INCI
international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient
who is INCI allocated by
American cosmetic association
and personal care products council
what format are ingredients listed and why
INCI
consistently listed using same ingredient name product to product - to easily compare
adverse reactions
many ingredients can cause adverse reactions
fragrances, some preservatives, chemical sunscreen are most common
symptoms of irritant reaction
burning
symptoms of allergic reaction
itching, inflammation, blisters, hives, rashes, eye swelling, puff, tear
can be detected immediately or in days/weeks
patch test
pretest small quantity of product on inside of arm, elbow, or behind ear
if reacts within 24hrs avoid use
how to handle an adverse reaction
immediately remove product, rinse the skin with cold water, apply cool compress until skin calms
have products to calm skin reactions
if client has reaction requiring medical treatment 2
the manufacture is responsible- unless product was purchased in bulk, repackaged by salon & resold- salon is in fault
malpractice insurance does not cover products formulated/repackaged in salon
if client has adverse reaction to homeware products reccomended
advise to discontinue use immediately
may choose to use over the counter hydrocortisone cream
if reaction is serious- seek medical care and bring product with them
manufacturer of product should be notified
ingredients derived naturally
from natural sources; plants, vitamins, animals
can have powerful skin benefits
ingredients derived from synthetic sources
made in lab from chemical compounds
can be just as effective with certain advantages- no pesticides and no ecological foot print
hyaluronic acid; natural and synthetic
natural- from rooster combs
synthetic- used in cosmetics, more stable, more effective water binding technology
popular terms
are not regulated by law but used as descriptive words for marketing
natural/all natural
often used for skincare product and ingredients derived from natural sources
no specific legal definition so used loosely s
seemed by consumers avoiding chemical free products- but all life forms are made of chemicals.t
toxic ingredients
can be from natural and synthetic sources
many resources to easily find toxicity ratings of ingredients
organic
describes natural-sourced ingredients grown without use of pesticides or chemicals
becoming more popular
FDA does not define or regulate term applying to cosmetic, body care, personal care products.
only regulation for term is USDA- us department of agriculture
if products contains agricultural ingredients and meets certain standards it may be eligible certified organic under National Organic Program regulations
cruelty free
term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process
no ingredients tested on animals
vegan
no animal ingredients or animal by products
includes honey, beeswax, lanolin, collagen.
term is not regulated and often used to note product does not contain animal ingredients, but may still contain by products
gluten
general name for proteins found in wheat, rye and triticale
celiac disease, gluten sensitivity, and intolerance are on the rise
Celiac disease
autoimmune disorder where eating gluten caused the lining of small intestine become inflamed
gluten free product
no scientific evidence product with gluten is harmful unless ingested used on lips or in mouth
wheat and other grain allergies can cause reaction.
what are gluten source ingredients labelled as
hydrolyzed wheat protein
tritium vulgare oil/extract (wheat germ)
wheat amino acids
how to get gluten free claim
FDA an organizations concerned with food standards have set thresholds
less than 20 parts per million of gluten (ppm)
hypoallergenic
`dermatologist tested and nonirritating terms often used
described ingredients or products less likely to cause allergic reaction
not a guarantee
non comedogenic
refers to ingredients that will not clog pores
comedogenic
refers to ingredients that tend to clog pored especially black heads
fragrance free
doesn’t mean no smell
indicates no additional ingredients have been added to the product to specially provide a fragrance
may already contain ingredients with a scent (lavender for different benefits but fragrant)
unscented
products formulated to have no smell
most ingredients have odour so more are added to mask and neutralize smell
functional ingredients
do not affect appearance of skin but needed for formulation of product
can be vehicles to spread, add body or texture, give form-lotion, cream, gel.
common functional ingredients 10
water
emollients
surfactants
delivery system
preservatives
fragrance
color agents
thickeners
pH adjusters
solvents
performance ingredients
cause actual change to the appearance of the skin
- ingredients the moisturize, exfoliate smooth surface.
aka active ingredients (drug industry) - chemically cause physiological change
water category and purpose
category- functional and performance
function- keeps other ingredients in solution and acts as vehicle to spread
performance- replenished moisture on surface
anhydrous
products that do not contain water
oil based, silicone serums , petroleum based
aloe vera ten used to replace water
emollients category and purpose
category- functional and performance
functional- help place, spread and keep substance on skin
performance- lubricate surface and guard barrier function
what are emollients
most common performance ingredient
made of lipids- fat, oil, wax
natural or synthesized
lie on top of skin preventing dehydration by tapping water and decreasing water loss
types of emollients- oils
vary in density and fat content/heviness
can be beneficial to all skin types
mineral source and botanical sources
mineral sourced oils
from the earth
protection against dehydration, prevent skin contact with irritants
nonreactive and biologically inert
do not harbour bacteria or organisms
examples- liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum
botanical sourced oils
derived from plants
coconut and palm oil heaviest and fattiest
argan and hemp seed oil lighter and good fro oily problem skin
surfactant category and purpose
category- functional
reduce tension between skin and product and increase ability to spread
cleansing agents, foaming agents
emulsifiers creating stable mixture of oil and water
how do surfactants work
become infused with both oil and water mixtures
have molecules with water loving head- hydrophilic and oil loving tails- lipophilic
types of surfactants - detergents
main type used primarily in cleansing products
cause foam and remove oil, dirt, makeup and debris from surface.
gentle detergents can be derived from natural sources - coconut
types of surfactants- emulsifiers
cause oil and water to mix
without oil and water would separate
surround oil particles allowing them to remain evenly distributed throughout water
two types- oil-in-water (O/W more hydrating products) and water-in-oil (W/O rich moisturizers)
fragrance category and purpose
category- functional
may be added to mask formulation unpleasant smell, neutralize smell or improve experience
synthetic and natural, essential oils, aromatherapy
colours subject to certification
subject to FDA batch certification
synthetic organic dyes, lakes, pigments
synthesized from raw materials obtained from petroleum
listed as D&C (drug and cosmetic) or FD&C (food drug cosmetic)
colours exempt from certification
obtained primarily from mineral, plant, animal sources
not subject to FDA batch certification requirements - still artificial colours
when used with cosmetics or FDA products must comply to labeling requirements
lighteners and brighteners category and purpose
performance
brightening- natural radiance and gloww to skin
lightening- improve discolouration
humectant, hydrators and hydrophilic agents
attract water to skin surface and lock it in
algae extract, aloe, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, honey
antioxidants
protect from free radicals by neutralizing before they attach to cell membrane
protect damage from pollution’s and LED
daily application prevents aging and inflammation process
green tea, pomegranate, vitamin C,A, E
lakes
insoluble pigments preventing leaking - lipstick
combines dyes with inorganic materials
thickeners category and function
functional
to give specific consistency or to help suspend ingredients
derived from lipids, emulsifiers, polymers minerals and synthetic ingredients
carbomers
frequently used in gel products to thicken creams
ph adjusters
stabilize ph and prevent changes
acetic acid
citric acid
sodium bicarbonate
solvents
help dissolve ingredients
alcohol
water
botanicals category and purpose
performance
major source in skin care and treatment
support health, texture, integrity of skin, healing, soothing and brightening
antimicrobal and antioxidant benefits
ingredients for exfoliiation
performance ingredients - mechanical and chemical
remove dead skin from surface, can brighten, and clear path for other products
mechanical exfoliation
aka physical
polish away and loosen dead cells from skin
beeswax
ground nuts and seeds
jojoba beads
oatmeal
chemical exfoliation
dissolve dead skin cells on surface and matrix (desmosomes)
can brighten tone and improve acne
enzymes, AHA, Retinol
enzymes
dissolve keratin proteins maintaining hydration level
bromelain (pineapple), papain (papaya) , pancreatin (beef by-product), pumpkin
AHA
water soluble and dissolves glue holding skin cells together
brighten and smooth, aid in cell turnover and collagen production.
citric, glycolic, malic, mandellic, lactic, tartaric.
glycolic acid
smaller molecular structure
penetrates deepest
lactic acid
larger molecular structure
gentle and less irritating
increase natural moisture and barrier
mandelic acid
largest molecular structure
gentle
improve skin tone and texture
antibacterial and sebum regulating
BHA
has salicylic acid
dissolves bond
oil soluble
meadowsweet, willow bark
retinol
vitamin A derivative
no visible redness or immediate exfoliation
vitamins
essential for health and function
can cause effect in skin
vitamin a
antioxidant
Uv damage and aging
vitamin c
stimulates collagen
skin tone, inflammation
vitamin e
strengthens skin natural barrier heal and repair
b vitamins
hydrate, soothe, heal
vitamin k
improve stretch marks , spider veins, scars and eye area
universal ingredients
antioxidants
vitamins
minerals
physical sunscreen ingredients
role of sun protection
absorb
scatter
reflect
spf
sun protection factor- how long it protects
does not apply to UVA
FDA labelling requirement for sunscreen
term sunblock cannot me used - no product 100% blocks
cannot label waterproof/sweatproof would overstate effectiveness
cannot claim to protect for more than 2hrs without reapplication, or protect immediately after - with our data to support and FDA approval
