Tesdt 2 Flashcards
suspensions
unstable physical mixture of undissolved particles in a liquid
chemistry 2
science that deals with composition of structures and properties of matter
how matter changes under different conditions.
matter 3
any substance that occupies space and has mass (weight)
all matter as physical and chemical properties. all matter is chemical
solid liquid gas
energy 1
is not matter; does not occupy space or have mass
element
simplest form of chemical matter - containing only one type of atom
cannot be made simpler without loss of identity
118 known, 98 are naturally occurring
identified by letter to symbol
atoms 3
Basic unit of matter - cannot be divided into simpler substance by ordinary means
nucleus at centre an negative charged electrons orbiting nucleus
number of protons determines the element
protons 1
subatomic particles with positive charge
neutrons 1
subatomic particles with no charge
molecules 2
chemical combination with two or more atoms in definite fixed proportions (H2O)
elemental and compound
elemental molecule 3
chemical combination of atoms of the same element in fixed proportions
air= O2
ozone= O3
compound molecule2
chemical compounds of 2 or more atoms of different elements in a fixed proportion
table salt= 1 atom of sodium (Na) and one atom of chlorines (Cl) = NaCl
2 ways matter can be changed
physical forces causing physical change
chemical reactions causing chemical changes. `
physical change 3
form is changed without becoming a new substance, no chemical reactions
solid ice melting into water, then converts to steam with heat
nail polish applied, solvent evaporates leaving film
chemical change 4
change in the chemical composition or makeup of substance
chemical reactions resulting in new makeup combining or subtracting certain elements
creates different chemical and physical properties
reactions of acids and alkalis (neutralization) with heat forms water by chemical change
physical properties
2
characteristics determined without chemical reaction and do not involve chemical change.
color, odor, weight, density etc.
chemical properties 2
characteristics determined with a chemical reactions involving chemical change in substance.
change in identity- iron rusting, wood burning, etc.
Pure Substances 4
chemical combination of matter in definite (fixed) proportions
have unique properties
most substances do not sit in a pure state
water- H2O and salt- NaCl
physical Mixture 5
physical combination of matter in any proportion
properties are combined properties of substances in the mixture
most product we use are physical mixtures
solutions, suspensions and emulsions
salt water - mix of slat and water and is salty and wet
uniform and non uniform physical mixtures 2
uniform- air, salt water, hydrogen peroxide
non uniform- most beauty products
solution 2
a stable uniform mixtures of 2 or more substances
do not separate when left still
solute 1
the substance that is dissolved in a solution
solvent 1
the substance that dissolves the solute making the solution
miscible liquids 2
mutually soluble - can be mixed together to form solutions and will stay mixed
water and alcohol in nail polish remover
immiscible liquids 3
not capable of being mixed to form stable solutions.
can be mixed but will separate when left still - water and oil
when immiscible liquids are combined it is a suspension
suspensions 4
unstable physical mixtures of undissolved particles in a liquid separate over time
contain large and fewer miscible particles , not large enough to quickly settle to the bottom
not usually transparent
glitter and nail polish, separates and needs to be mixed before use.
emulsions 3
unstable physical mixture of 2 or more immiscible substances, AND an special ingredient called an emulsifier.
special type of suspension as they do separate but usually slowly over a long period of time.
properly stored can be stable up to 3 years- but should be used within 1 year
emulsifiers 1
ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together combining them into uniform fairly stable mixture.
differences between solutions, suspensions and surfactants chart (5 each column)
solutions:
- miscible
- no surfactant
- small particles
- stable mixture
- usually clear
suspensions:
- slightly miscible
- no surfactant
- larger particles
- unstable, temporary mixture
- usually cloudy
emulsions:
- immiscible
- surfactant
- largest particles
- limited stability through emulsifier
- usually solid color
surfactants 2
substances that allow oil and water to mix/emulsify
type of emulsifier
surfactant molecule 2 distinct parts
head= Hydrophilic= water loving- capable of combining with and attracting water
tail= lipophilic= oil loving- attraction to fat/oils
oil in water emulsions 2
oil droplets are emulsified in water as they are surrounded by surfactant lipophilic tails pointing inwards and head (hydrophilic) pointing outwards
oil in water does not feel as greasy because oil is hidden and water forms outer parts
water in oil emulsions
water droplets are emulsified in oil surrounded by surfactant hydrophilic heads pointing in and tails out
water forms inner part of emulsion and oils is outer- makes a greasy feeling.
ointments 3
physical mixture
semi-solid
made with any combination of petrolatum, oil and wax
powders 1
physical mixture of 2 solids
common chemical product ingredients 6
- volatile alcohols
- alkanolamines
- ammonia
- glycerin
- silicones
- volatile organic compounds (VOC)
volatile alcohols 2
evaporate easily
isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol
alkanolamines 2
- alkaline substances used to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many hair products
often used in place of ammonia
ammonia 4
colorless with pungent odour
composed of nitrogen and hydrogen in water solution - ammonia water
used to raise pH
can irritate skin
glycerin 2
- sweet colourless, oily substance
used as solvent and moisturizer
silicone 3
special type of oil used in hair conditioners, water resistant lubricants for skin and nail polish dryers
less greasy than many other oils
can give silky, smooth feel to skin and shine to hair
volatile organic compounds (VOC) 3
compounds that contain carbon (organic) and evaporate very easily (volatile)
liquids or soifs used in consumer products that turn into as when exposed to hair/sunlight
ethyl alcohol
overexposure principle 3
toxicity-related to how substance is used
prolonged repetitive use can have effects
overexposure determined toxicity
pH 4
potential hydrogen
p= quantity
H= hydrogen ions
= quantity of hydrogen ions
ion 1
atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge
ionization 1
separation of atom/molecule into positive/negative ions
anion 1
ion with a negative charge
cation 1
ion with a positive charge
water ionization and pH what scale is measuring 4
in pure water some water molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen ions and some into hydroxide ions
hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic
hydroxide (OH-) is alkaline
pH scale measures the quantity of hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions within a substance
what kind of solutions have pH/can be measured for pH 2
only aqueous solution have pH, without water there is no pH
Non-aqueous (oil and alcohol) do not have a
pure water pH 2
same amount of hydrogen and hydroxide ions
neutral - 50% acidic 50% alkaline
pH and acne 3
Propionibacterium acnes is found on everyones skin and when levels are higher people are more prone to breaking out
P.Acnes minimal pH of 5.5
more alkaline environment allows p.acnes to thrive- 5.5 soaps are best for acne
acidic solution 4
pH below 7 (0-6)
hair and skin have pH of 5
owe chemical reactivity to hydrogen ion (H+)
AHA, Thioglycolic acids, glycolic acid
alkaline/base solution4
pH above 7 (8-14)
owe chemical reactivity to hydroxide ions (OH-)
feel slippery and soapy on skin
sodium hydroxide
neutral solution 1
pH of 7
the pH scale 5
measure of acidity and alkalinity of substance
0-14
> 7 is acidic
<7 is alkaline
7=neutral
logarithm 3
multiples of 10s
pH scale is logarithmic, change in one whole number represents tenfold of change, 2 whole number is 10x10/100fold change
ph of 8 is 10x more alkaline then 7
neutralization reactions 1
mixing acids and alkalis in equal proportions equals water
oxidation-reduction 3
AKA redox reactions
reaction where oxidization and reduction takes place at the same time
when oxygen is chemically combined with substance it is oxidized when oxygen is chemically removed from substance it is reduced.
exothermic 1
chemical reactions that are characterized by the release of heat produced from oxidation reaction
factors that can affect pH (acidic Mantle ) 8
- cosmetics
- skincare
- genetics and age
- antibacterial products
- sebum and sweat
- digestion,
- hormones,
- metabolism
where does pH balancing take place 1
kidneys -filters acids and bases
oxidizing agent 1
substance that releases oxygen
reducing agent 1
substance that adds hydrogen to a chemical compound or subtracts oxygen from the compound
combustion 1
rapid oxidation of substance accompanied by heat and light
endothermic reaction 1
chemical reaction that requires the absorption of energy or heat from an external source for reaction to occur.
toner for pH 2
keeps bacteria in line with skin pH
works as a double cleanse because they remove impurities.
pH of moisturizers
5-7
pH of serums
4-6
ascorbic acid vitamin C serums pH and why
2.6-3.2
helps exfoliate skin
AHA/BHA pH why
3-4 accelerate exfoliation
peptides and proteins about their pH 2
don’t like extreme pH and low pH will destroy them.
anything below 4 or higher than 7 should be avoided.
alkaline skin 3
decreased hydration
aging
eczema flares
acidic skin 2
redness
inflammation
our acid mantle contains and why 2
has amino acids, lactic acids and sebum
is a little acidic to keep it moisturized and protected from bacteria.
surfactants In cleansers 2
create foam reaction when mixed with water
hydrophobic/lipophilic tail catch oil and debris from skin
types of surfactants 2
non ionic surfactants
anionic surfactants/alkaline surfactants
cationic/acidic surfactants
amphoteric surfactants
detergents
emulsifiers
non-ionic surfactants 2
mild in nature
often preferred ingredient in cosmetics that do not have foaming/lathering properties
anionic surfactants/alkaline surfactants 4
commonly used in cosmetics
inexpensive and have good foaming properties
negatively charged= good at removing oils and dirt from skin surface.
can also be harsh or irritating to the skin
cationic surfactant/acidic surfactant 3
positive charge
not effective as detergents and not used in cleansers
effective carrier for damaged skin and hair (conditioner)
amphoteric surfactants 6
positive and negative charge in solution
can adjust pH of environment they are added to
can have calming effects on skin
less irritating to skin and eyes - baby products
more expensive
not high foaming
surfactants and emulsifiers in products 3
surfactants can be used as emulsifiers stabilizing the mixture of 2 immiscible/insoluble liquids for prolonged period
foaming agent
commonly used in creams, lotions, conditioners, shaving creams,
foaming agents 2
enhance lather or bubble formation
sharing creams- helps soften the stubble
thickening agents 4
interact with other ingredients in formulation increase viscosity
results in thickening of product
body lotions, conditioners, mascara
natural (pectin) and synthetic thickeners (polyacrylamide)
wetting or dispersing agents/surfactants 4
reduce the intramolecular forces at the liquid interface
facilitate spread and penetration of the products containing them into the depths of skin and hair
wetting/dispersion agents are most used surfactants in cosmetics
antiperspirants, coloured cosmetics, metal oxide based sunscreen
opacifiers in surfactants 2
some surfactants can have formulation opaque by absorbing light, making surface applied on look brighter
commonly used in makeup formulations
conditioners in surfactants 2
cationic surfactants can form resilient, protective coating on skin and hair surface
commonly incorporated into makeup/hair products
preservatives in surfactants 1
due to bactericidal properties surfactants can be used as preservatives to prolong shelf life
occlusives 2
oily materials that create thin coating on skin
petrolatum, mineral oils, dimenthicone
emollients ingredients 2
are like occlusive ingredients
oils, butters, waxes and esters
humectants 2
materials such as honey, aloe, glycerin
typically mild
gas 3
state of matter
particles that have neither a defined volume nor defined shape
very different from vapours
vapour 2
formed when liquids evaporate into air
evaporation is change from liquid to vapour
any liquid can be heated into vapour
fumes 2
blend of soot-like particles mixed with vapour
result form burning substances such as candles, incense, cigs, gasoline
evaporation coatings 5
nail polishes, base coats, and top coats have no chemical reaction
work strictly by evaporation
ingredients are volatile or quick-evaporating solvents-
special polymers that dissolve -not cross linked so dissolve easily
leaves behind smooth polymer film
preventing over exposure 3
- proper ventilation
properly fitted dust masks- N95 recommended
masks not effective against vapours and don’t replace proper ventilation
Nail wraps chemical 1
Cyanoacrylate Monomer
nails wraps hardener and wraps forms
hardeners- spray, drops, powder
wraps- fibreglass, resin, silk, apper
Photo-chromatic Ultraviolet 2
sensitive compound which darkens on exposure to sunlight
chemicals in nail tips/acrylics 4
Cyanoacrylate Monomers
Methacrylate Powder
Tertiary Atomatic Amines
methyl Methacrylate Monomer (MMA) BANNED
Thermo-chromatic Colour 2
colour change induced by temperature
lighter colour when cold and darker when warm
Magnetic Nail products 2
contain iron powder
magnet held close to the nail to formulate the iron powder in desired pattern before evaporation of solvent
TSFR 3
toluene-sulfonamide-formaldehyde-resin
most common cause of allergic contact dermatitis
toxin free is better but hypoallergenic has increase polish peeling
product removal 3
- most damaging service that can be done, even when correct
complete removal causes drying and damage to plate
best to leave enhancements in place maintained and only remove when client doesn’t want them anymore.
how many times a year can enhancement removal become damaging 1
3-4 times a year
nail coatings 1
products that cover nail plate with a hardened film
two main types of nail coatings 2
coatings that cure/polymerize- enhancements, UV gel- chemical reactions
coatings that harden upon evaporation- nail polish, top coats, base coats- physical reactions
adhesion 3
force of nature that takes 2 surfaces stick together
molecules on one surface are attracted to molecules on another
oils can contaminate- which is why clean dry surface is needed.
adhesive 2
chemical that causes two surfaces to stick together
allow incompatible surfaces to join
nail primer 1
substance that improves adhesion
polymers 3
molecules in product join into extremely long chains
can be liquids but usually solid
proteins are polymers- making a nail plate a polymer
polymerization 3
the chemical reaction that makes polymers
aka curing, hardening, cure
begins with ingredient called initiator
monomers 2
the individual molecules that join to makeup polymers
amino acids join to make keratin= polymer aka nail plate
initiator molecules 5
attach selves to tail end of monomer and passing energy along- domino reaction
causes chain to get longer
becomes tangled and knotted- product thickens
chains become much too crowded t freely move and product has become mass of microscopic chains
this is when surface is hard enough to file.
thermal initiators. 1
used by liquid and powder systems to gather energy from the heat of the room/hand.
photo initiators 1
used by UV curing products that derive their extra energy when exposed to UV
catalyst 1
substance that speeds up a chemical reactions by making initiators work more efficiently or helping chemical reactions happen easily.
oligomers 3
short chain of monomers that has had chain growth halted before it becomes polymer
useful because can be joined quickly and easily Inyo long chains to create polymers
give UV gels sticky consistency allowing hardening in 2-3min not hrs
simple polymer chains 6
wraps tips adhesives- monomers attached head to tail
tangles chains are easily unraveled by solvents
can also be unraveled by force
easily damaged by sharp impacts or heavy stresses
dyes and stains can also get lodged between tangles
nail polishes, marker in, foods
cross linker 4
monomer that joins different polymer chains together (Uv gels, monomer liquid, polymer powder)
creates strong net-like polymers resulting in 3d structure of strength and flexibility- nail enhancement
increase strength of natural and nail enhancements and more resistant to staining
more resistance to solvents and harder to remove.
polymers used in other cosmetics 7
thickeners
hair products
moisturizers and conditioners
emulsifiers , protective barriers
mascara
nail enamels
waterproof sunscreen
nail enhancement adhesion tips 5
- scrubs surface oils and debris
nail dehydrators WITHIN 30 mins of apply product
do not need to rough up nails but remove surface shine to prevent lifting
thin nail plates are weak
overfilling damages plate and tissue below
cosmeceuticals 3
over the counter drugs with lower dose of active ingredients meeting definition of cosmetics and drugs
professional skin care including pharmaceutical grade ingredients
- acne cleanser (cosmetic-cleanse, drug-treat acne)
natural vs synthetic ingredients 4
natural products have powerful skin benefits how ever some most effective ingredients are not natural;
synthetic have advantages - no use of pesticides no footprint
many combine both to get both benefits
example- hyaluronic acid from rooster combs but synthetic is more stable
functional ingredients 2
do not affect appearance of skin but needed for formulation
allow spreading, give body and texture, and form- lotion, cream, gel.
common functional ingredients 10
water
emollient’s
surfactants
delivery system
preservatives
fragrances
color agents
thickeners
pH adjusters
solvents
performance ingredients 2
cause the actual changes in the skin
active ingredients - term used to indicate ingredients that chemically cease physiological changes
ingredients- water (category and purpose) 3
category- functional and/or performance
purpose- as functional
- keeps ingredients in a solution acting as a vehicle
purpose- as performance
- replenished moisture on surface
products that do not contain water name and examples 3
anhydrous
oil based serums, silicone serums, petrolatum based
aloe vera often used as vehicle instead of water
ingredients - emollients (category and purpose) 7 total
category- functional and performance
purpose- as functional
- help place , spread and keep other substances on the skin
purpose as performance-
- lubricates skin and guard the barrier function
- one of most common performance
- made of lipids (fat, oil, wax)
- prevent dehydration
rich or light in consistency
types of emollients 5
oils from mineral sources (earth) or botanical sources (plants)
silicones
fatty acids
fatty alcohols
fatty esters
oil from mineral sources 4
fro the earth- highly redefined and purified petroleum sources
non reactive and biologically inert
can be used with no added preservatives
liquid paraffin, mineral oil, petrolatum
oils from botanical sources 3
from plants
vary in fatty acid content and heaviness
coconut oil, palm oil, organ oil,, and hemp seed oil
emollient silicones 3
chemically combined oils with silicone and oxygen
noncomedogenic protective film on surface
can also be vehicle
fatty acid emollient 3
lubricant derived from plant oils or animal fats
no irritating
oleic acid, stearic acid
fatty alcohol emollient’s 3
fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
not drying, wax-like consistency
acetyl and lauryl, sterile alcohols
fatty ester emollient’s 3
combined fatty acids and fatty alcohols
often feel better than natural oils and lubricate evenly
glycerol stearate, isopropyl my striate
delivery systems category and purpose 2
category- functional ingredient
purpose-
- used to distribute a products key performance ingredients into skin once applied
types of delivery systems 3
vehicles
liposomes
polymers
delivery systems; polymers 2
chemical compounds formed by several small molecules .
used in advanced vehicles that release ingredients onto skin surface at microscopically controlled rate.
delivery systems- liposomes 2
fluid like spheres filled with performance ingredients.
brings ingredients to targeted depth of skin and slowly releases protecting quality and integrity
delivery systems-vehicles1
carry/deliver other ingredients into skin making more effective
traditional preservatives1
include formaldehyde releaser and parabens
preservative- organic acids and natural alternatives1
protection form growth of bacteria and fungi
preservatives - antioxidants1
extends the shelf life of a product and reduces rate of oxidization
preservatives- chelating agents 1
boosts efficacy of preservatives by breaking down cell walls of bacteria and other organisms
fragrances category and purpose 2
category- functional ingredient
purpose-
- mask, neutralize, improve unpleasant smells
types of fragrances 3
synthetic- combining chemical ingredients- listed as fragrance
natural - botanicals comprise basic elements of natural scents . aromatherapy (highly concentrated)
aromatherapy - derived from ancient practices of using natural plant to promote health and well-being
thickener category and purpose 2
category - functional
purpose -
- gives specific consistency
pH adjusters category and function 2
category- functional
purpose - buffering/stabalizing products to prevent changes in pH- acids and alkaline used to adjust
solvents category and purpose 2
category- functional
purpose -
- added to help dissolve other ingredients
exfoliation ingredients category and function 3
category - performance
purpose- exfoliate- brightening, penetration
- mechanic or chemical (dissolve dead skin cells) ingredients to exfoliate
lighteners and brighteners category and purpose 3
category- performance
purpose-
brightening- provide.maintain natural radiance and glow
lightening- improve discolouration in skin
humectants, hydrators and hydrophilic agents 1
ingredients that attract water to skins surface
antioxidants 2
effective for all skin types and conditions
- protects from : free radicals and pollution, stress, uv and blue light
vitamin A 1
antioxidant
vitamin C 1
stimulates collagen
vitamin E 1
- strengthens skin natural barrier
b vitamins 1
deeply hydrate soothe and heal
vitamin k 2
improve stretch marks, spider veins, scars
also good eye area product
minerals 1
optimal health and functioning
peptides 5
brightening,
barrier function,
hydration,
reduce swelling under eyes,
antimicrobial
ceramides 3
restore moisture,
reinforce skin barrier and help against harm
restore lipids
botanical oils 2 and plant stem cells 3
rich in essential fatty acids ,
healthy barrier functions
plant stem cells - protect stem cells from UV stress, inflammation, free radicals
probiotics 2
latest breakthrough for one, rosacea and eczema
balance and retain healthy bacteria
growth factors/cytokines 4
protein ingredients regulate cell growth
tissue repair and regeneration
important part in healing and maintaining healthy skin, elasticity, firmness
sources can come from human cells grown in labs or plants
ingredients for all skin types 4
daily ingredients- antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and physical sunscreen ingredients
treatment 1 and ingredients 3 for combination skin
treatment- maintain healthy balance of water and oil
ingredients- emollients, humectants, oil balancing/regulating
treatment 2 and ingredients 2 for dehydrated skin
treatments- restore internal skin hydration and prevent tewl
ingredients - humectants, light to rich emollients based on skin type
treatment 3 and ingredients 3 for dry skin
treatment- provide moisture, replenishing and skin restoring ingredients
ingredients- ceramides, emollients, humectants
treatment 4 and ingredients 5 for oily skin
treatment- reduce activity of oil glands, promote oil-water balance, prevent clogged pores
ingredients- hydroxy acids, humectants/light emollients, oil balancing/regulating, clarifying, detoxifying
treatments 5 and ingredients 10 for acne/problem skin
treatments- reduce overactivity of oil glands, promote oil-water balance, prevent clogged pores, inhibit bacteria, reduce inflammation
ingredients- antibacterial, antiinflammatory, soothing, humectant/light emollients, oil balance, clarifying, detoxifying, retinoids, topical probiotics
treatments 3 and ingredients 4 for hyperpigmentation
treatment- reduce inflammation, reduce pigment areas, minimize melanin production
ingredients - anti-inflammatory, soothing, retinoid, lighteners/brighteners
treatment 4 and ingredients 6 for mature/aging
treatment- address skin condition, increase collagen synthesis, improve appearance
ingredients- ceramides, humectants/emolients, growth factors, vitamin C, peptides and retinoids
