Surfing/Surf Awareness Flashcards
Plunging waves or ‘dumpers’
Break with tremendous force & can easily throw a swimmer to the bottom. They usually break in the shallow water & low tides can increase the frequency of plunging waves.
Steep rise in sea floor & curling face
Spilling waves
Occur when the crest (top) of the wave tumbles down the face (front) of the wave. Generally, spilling waves are the safest wave.
Gradual rise in sea floor & sloping face
Surging waves
May never actually break, as they approach the shore. They are commonly associated with rock ledges that face into deep water. Do not lose speed or gain height and can knock people off their feet & carry them back into deep water. For this reason they can be very dangerous.
Deep sea floor & face
Parts of the wave
Crest
Lip
Face
Trough
Why do waves break?
Waves break when the shape of the wave becomes too steep.
With the difference of formation of the sand that is underneath
A littoral current
A current that pulls you across to the rip. It is located right next to the opening of the rip.
Rips
A rip is a body of water that is formed by ocean floor (sand bar) that heads out to sea.
Signs of rips
- Discoloured brown water due to sand which has been stirred up from the bottom
- Foam on the surface extending beyond the break
- Waves forming further out on both sides of the rip
- Debris floating seaward
- A rippled appearance, where the surrounding water is generally calm.
Permanent rip
Will remain in the same area for months or years (MOST COMMON)
Fixed rips
May remain for hours or months accompanied by a note or gully on the base of the ocean floor
Flash Rips
Temporary in nature. Appear suddenly without any warning. (MOST DANGEROUS)
Travelling Rips
Propelled along the beach by a strong current
How waves are formed
Waves are formed by the wind blowing across the surface of the ocean. These factors include:
- the intensity of the wind
- the length of the time the wind blows
- the distance the wind blows
Spring Tides
Occur during the full moon and the new moon. Tides are very high or very low. Stronger tides
Neap Tides
Occur during quarter moons. Smaller difference between low and high tides. Weaker tides
Predicting changes in the weather
Examine the clouds- white & high = good weather, dark & low = rain or storms are on the way
Look for a red sky- red sky at night, shepherds delight, red sky in the morning, shepherds warning.
Gaze at the moon- if reddish or pale, dust is in the air, if bright and sharply focused, low pressure has cleared out the dust and low pressure usually means rain.
Clouds
High- cirrus
Mid- alto
Low- stratus
Wind directions
Winds around low pressure systems or cyclones move CLOCKWISE
Winds around high pressure systems or anticyclones move ANTICLOCKWISE.
Tide charts
- Look at the date you are planning to go out on
- Look at the time you are planning to go out
- Look at the highest number and the time next to it(usually in 24 hours) and that is the time of high tide.
- Look that the lowest number and the time next to it and that is the time of low tide
- Letter W tells you that the waves will be coming from due west.
Aided rescues
Board rescue- take the rescue board and paddle out to the victim. Introduce yourself. Flip the board and put their arms on the board, then flip it back over and the victim will be on the board. Lay them on the board in front of you and you lay between their legs and paddle back into shore.
Tube rescue- swim out to the victim with the strap of the tube around your body. Introduce yourself and clip the tube around the victims waist under their arms. Then swim back into shore ensuring that their head is above the water.
Once you are at the shore, carry your victims up the shore, by dragging them from under their armpits then put them into recovers position
