surf awareness Flashcards
what are the three factors that determine a wave?
- intensity of the wind
- lenght of time the wind blows
- distance the wind blows
how many types of waves are there?
3
how is a wave formed?
the faster the wind the larger the wave
the longer the wind blows the””
the larger the area the wind blows””
what are the names of the types of waves?
- plunger or dumper
- spilling wave
- surging wave
what does a plunger/dumper wave do?
plunging waves break with a heavy force and can easily throw a swimmer the the bottom
when do spilling waves form?
spilling waves occur when the crest of the wave tumbling down the face of the wave
(best for surfing)
what does a surging wave do?
surging waves may never actually break as they approach the shore.
what is a rip?
a rip is a current of water that is moving out to sea. rips don’t pull you under the water. most people drown due to them getting tired.
what are signs of a rip?
Discoloured water, waves breaking further out on both sides of the rip
how many types of rip currents are there?
4
Permanent, Fixed, Flash and traveling
how long does a permanent rip last?
can remain in the same area for month or even years.
how long does a fixed rip last for?
can remain for hours or months, can be accompanied by a hole or gully.
how long does a Flash rip last for
Flash rips can appear suddenly without warning lasting only a few minutes.
what is a traveling rip
a traveling rip is propelled along a beach by a strong current.
what do you do when getting caught in a rip?
dont panic, ride the rip out, swim parallel to the shore, return to shore
when does a spring tide occur?
a spring tide occur during a full and new moon. (strong tide)
when does neap tide occur?
a neap tide occurs during the moons quarter phases (weak tide)
what happens during a spring tide?
during a spring tide low and high tide have a large difference.
what happens during neap tide?
durring a neap tide low and high tides have a smaller difference.
predict changes in weather by ?
animals moving
clouds
