sources of energy - wave formation

Question 1

what is the primary influent on the formation of waves?

Answer 1

the sun

Question 2

when do winds occur?

Answer 2

when wind moves across the surface of water

Question 3

winds move across the surface of the water causing what?

Answer 3

frictional drag

Question 4

what does the frictional drag cause?

Answer 4

small ripples and waves

Question 5

what do small ripples and waves lead to?

Answer 5

a circular orbital motion of water particles in the oean

Question 6

as the seabed becomes shallower towards the coastline what happens to the orbit of water particals?

Answer 6

become more elliptical leading to horizontal movement of the waves

Question 7

when the wave height increases what decreases?

Answer 7

the wavelength and wave velocity

Question 8

as the wave hight increase and wavelength and velocity decreases, what does this cause?

Answer 8

water to back up from behind the wave until the wave breaks and surges up the beach