Skin Care Products: Chemistry, Ingredients & Selection Flashcards
Carbomers
Gellant / Thickener- used to thicken creams and are frequently used in gel products
Chelating Agent (preservative)
Chemical that is added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative.
Cheating agents work by breaking down the cell walls of bacteria and other micro organisms
These ingredients are used in small quantities
Antioxidants.
Substances that inhibit oxidation reactions. They are used to help the condition of the skin by combating free radicals as well as stopping the oxidation that causes products to turn rancid and spoil.
Common antioxidants used as preservatives are Ascorbic acid, BHA, BHT and tocopherol (vitaminE)
FDA
FDA views cosmetics according to the Cosmetic Act of 1938, which distinguishes between frustrated and cosmetics
Functional Ingredients
Make up the majority of a product ; allows products to spread, give them body and texture, and a specific form such as a lotion, cream or gel
Performance Ingredients
Performance ingredients cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin
Performance ingredients are sometimes referred to as active agents
Water
Water makes up a large part of the skin. It is the most frequently used cosmetic ingredient – it’s a vehicle and a performance ingredient
Helps keep cosmetic ingredients in products and helps spread products across skin
Anhydrous
Products that do not contain any water
Oil based serums, petrolatum based products ( lip balm, and silicone serums)
Anhydrous products are designed for DRY skin
Plant Oil
Plant oils contain fatty acids which are beneficial for skin that does not produce enough sebum
Plant oils vary in fatty acid content and heaviness.
Coconut oil and palm Oil are two of the fattiest and heaviest oils
Fatty alcohols
Fatty alcohols have a wax like consistency and are used as emollients or spreading agents
Fatty esters
Fatty Esters are produced from combining fatty acids and fatty alcohols
Fatty esters are easily recognized on labels because they almost always end in -ate-
Surfactants
Surfactants reduce the tension between the skin and the product and increase the spreadability of the cosmetic product
Certified Colors
Certified colors are Synthetic, inorganic and known as metal salts.
These are colorants that have been batch certified and approved by the FDA
Exempt Colors
Exempt colors are those colors that do not require certification, include zinc oxide, iron oxides, carmine, mica and the ultramarine colors
Exfoliants
Exfoliants are mechanical and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin
Mechanical exfoliating ingredients are add to products to physically scrape dead cells from the skins surface.
The ingredients include: jojoba beads, ground nuts- almonds, and various seeds
Exfoliation
Exfoliation can also be achieved through chemical action with the use of
alpha hydroxyl acids
Beta hydroxyl acids
Beta hydroxyl acids
Salicylic acid is a BHA which is not as strong as an AHA
Alpha Hydroxyl acid
Gylcolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acids are all AHA
Citric acid is mild form of an AHA because of it chemical composition
Paraffin Wax Masks
Paraffin masks are used to warm the ski and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through the heat trapped under the paraffin
It has plumping and softening effect on the skin
Topical ingredients
Topical ingredients need to have a high-tech delivery system, such as liposomes, to carry or deliver the ingredients effectively into the skin
Phototherapy
Phototherapy is the use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits.
Cocoa butter
Cocoa butter –myristyl lactate–laity alcohol
Witch hazel
Witch hazel made from hamamelis shrub; good for toning the skin
Works as an astringent & antiseptic
Eucalyptus
Made from the gun tree; used for acne and oily skin
Antiseptic, anyimicrobial, astringent, stimulating
Cucumber
Commonly used for masks and the eye area to reduce puffiness
Antiseptic soothing
Chamomile
Plant extract used for sensitive skin
Calming, anti-inflammatory
Sulfur (drying agent)
Sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells..
This ingredient is commonly used in acne products. It can cause allergic skin reactions in some sensitive people and those allergic to sulfur or sulfates
Salicylic acid
A beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties, it’s natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark and wintergreen
Check for client allergies to this acid and to aspirin
Liposomes
Closed-lipid bilateral spheres that encapsulate ingredients, targeting their delivery to specific tissues of the skin and controlling their release
FDA
FDA regulates cosmetics only in the area of safety, labeling, and the claims made for a product
Examples of inorganic sunscreen
Titanium dioxide
Zinc oxide
pH adjusters
Act As Buffers;
Citric acid,?sodium bicarbonate
Antioxidants
Vitamins amino acids and other natural substances that neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals
Home care products
While professional products may cost more initially, they are usually more effective due to a higher concentration of performance ingredients —
Less product is needed
Treatment creams
Referred to as nourishing creams, designed to moisturize and condition the skin -
Especially during sleep when normal tissue repair is taking place
Modelage or Thermal Masks
Contain special crystals of gypsum, a plastic like ingredient.. Modelage masks are used with nourishing products underneath
Peptides
Chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the skin’s appearance.
Peptides have been shown to hep aging skinny improving tissue repair and skin functions such as cell and fibroblasts activity.
Peptides enhances : collagen? Elasticity and skin firmness
Glycoproteins
Glycoproteins are also Glycopolypeptides, (yeast cell derivative) found to enhance immune response and cellular metabolism, which boost oxygen uptake in the cell.
Revitalizing capacity strengthens the skin’s natural ability to protect itself
Enzymes
Papain, bromeliad, and pancreatic are used in exfoliating products..
These ingredients are designed to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer, smoother, and help maintain the hydration level of the epidermis.
