Sherry Flashcards
Sherry Consejo Regulador founded when?
1933
In response to poor quality “Sherries” from around the world.
Ruiz Mateos SA aka Rumasa
Major player in Sherry for a long time Started as almacenista Started to ship its own Sherry 1959 Supplied Harveys Bristol cream Business empire: bodegas, hotels, banks 1970s: dominate industry, drive down prices Negative impact on industry overall Nationalsied 1983
Latitude of Jerez?
Low latitude
36 degrees
Sherry climate
Hot Mediterranean
nb it’s on the Atlantic
Poniente
Cool, damp wind from the Atlantic = humid influence in summer
Levante
Hot drying wind from Africa
Makes climate arid
Grapes transpire more quickly = concentrating sugars
Too much sugar a problem in fermenting to dryness
Sherry has high or low number of sunlight hours
High
Lots of cloud-free days
W/o sufficient shading = grapes can sunburn
How many hectares under vine for Zona de Produccion de Jerez?
7,000ha
Zona de Produccion can make grapes for which two DOs?
DO Jerez-Xeres-Sherry
DO Manzanilla - Sanlucar de Barrameda
One exception to Zona de Produccion?
PX grown around Montilla, in mountains above Malaga (outside Zona de Produccion but matured in Zona de Crianza) so can use DO Sherry
Two parts of Zona de Produccion?
Jerez Superior
Jerez Zona
Which is better, Jerez Superior or Jerez Zona?
Jerez Superior
All on albariza soil
Accounts for 90% of plantings
Pagos
Smaller delimited areas of Sherrry vineayrds
Albariza
key soil type in Sherry. mix of limestone, silica and clay
Clay = retain and gradually release water from winter rainfall = vital in such a dry region
What does Albariza forming crust do?
Helps reduce evaporation from the soil surface
Why are higher planting densities possible in Jerez?
Albariza soils retain water well
Why are high yields possible in Jerez?
Sherry grapes don’t need same level of concentration of flavour as grapes for unfortified wines = most flavour comes from maturation
Light colour of albariza soil has what advantage?
Reflects light back to vine canopy = aids ripening
Types of soil other than albariza?
Barros (more clay)
Arenas (sandy)
Palomino aka
Palomino Fino
Listan
Palomino characteristics (grape)
Mid to late ripen Suits dry, sunny weather Large yields Loses acidity quickly near maturity Netural aromas
Moscatel in Sherry is which type?
Muscat of Alexandria
Where is Moscatel grown?
Chipiona
Moscatel characteristics (grape)
Aromatic (grape, blossom)
Grown on sandy arenas soils
Where do PX flavours come from?
Neutral variety
Flavours from drying and maturing processes
Vara y pulgar
This WAS the principal training system (form of replacement cane)
Now more and more cordon trained and spur pruned (better for mechanisation)
Why is VSP trellising good in Sherry?
Ensures canopy remains open, easy for machine. BUT some shading is needed to prevent sunburn
Max yields in Sherry
80hl/ha
Rare. usually closer to 60-70hl/ha
Gradient for slopes in Sherry
Gentle
10-15%
Aserpia
System of troughs or gullies down each row of vines to catch winter rains
Otherwise rainwater would flow down sloped vineyards (not penetrate soil)
Most used rootstocks Sherry
333EM
41-B
13-5 EVEX
(hybrids of v. vinifera and v. berlandieri)
13-5 EVEX
Rootstock Hybrid vinifera and berlandieri Developed by local research station Most successful so far Tolerant of limestone (prevent chlorosis) Tolerant of drought Good yields
Diseases a problem in Jerez?
Generally not
Hot dry growing season
Sometimes mildew in spring (warm humid weather after rain)
Where mildew occurs in Sherry how is it treated?
Systemic fungicides
VSP training helps promote air flow
What pest in Sherry?
European grapevine moth
use sexual confusion/pheromones against it
When/where does harvest start?
First week of august
More inland vineyards
Where/when does harvest finish?
Second week of september
Cooler coastal plots
Why harvest early in Sherry?
Harvest early as possible to avoid autumn rain
Rot undersirable, particularly for bio aged wines
Grapes picked at what % potential alc?
12%
Acidification needed?
Yes, sometimes
Palomino loses acidity quickly
Acidify if levels fall below 5g/L
PX and Moscatel harvested later. T/F
True
Want more sugar in grapes, makes drying process easier and quicker
Picking by hand or machine?
Both
60% by machine, mostly at night or early morning = temperatures coolest = reduce oxidation and microbial spoilage
Skin contact in Sherry?
No, particularly not for bio aged wines. Phenolic compounds can restrict flor
Lightest first pressings called what
Primera yema
Bio aged styles
Second pressing called what
Seconda yema
Oloroso
Extracted later with more pressure
Higher phenolics = flor struggles to develop
Final press fractions of Sherry used for what?
Other products
Wine for seasoning abrrels
Clarifying the must in Sherry
Before fermentation, either by cold settling, centrifugation or flotation
Albariza is dusty = need to remove particles
Cultured or ambient yeast?
Cultured
Fermentation temp for Palomino sherry?
22-26C
Aromas come from maturation so no need to preserve fruit etc
MLF in Sherry?
Prevented
Acidity already low; buttery flavours not wanted
How is MLF prevented?
Chill the must
Don’t use SO2 = would impact flor development
Fortifiying liquid
95% abv grape spirit, neutral
Wine for bio aged sherry fermetned to what %
15-15.5%
allow flor to develop
Wine for oxidative aged sherry fermented to what %
17%
flor can’t develop
Sobretablas
Waiting room/holding pen before solera system
Three municipalities for Sherry maturation?
Jerez de la Frontera
El Puerto de Santa Maria
Sanlucar de Barrameda
(together: Zona de Crianza)
exception: Moscatel matured in Chipiona and Chiclana de Frontera
Maturation for DO Manzanilla-Sanlucar de Barrameda must take place in what municipality?
Sanlucar de Barrameda
Most widely used maturation vessel for Sherry?
600L butt Old wood American oak Historical reasons and cheaper than French Don't contribute flavours
What aspects of bodega architecture mean air conditioning not needed?
Thick walls = constant temperature
Tall buildings, high ceilings = warm air rises away from barrels
Small windows near roof = allow coop, damp south weterly winds from Atlantic = lower temp, increase humidity
Window blinds are thin = diffuse sunlight, prevent dust and insects
Floors made of earth = wetted in summer to lower temperatures, raise humidity
Why are temperature and humidity important for bodega?
For growth and maintenace of flor
variation throughout year so flor can’t necessarily be maintained throughout the year
Define solera system
A method of fractional blending used to maintain consistency and quality yea rafte ryear
What are the sections of barrels in a solera system called?
Criadera
Name of oldest criadera in a solera system?
The solera
next oldest is 1st criadera
No more than what % of wine from one solera system removed for blending & bottling each calendar year?
max 40%
solera always maintains most of its wine
Any wine released and bottled for sale must be at least how old?
Two years
What is flora made of?
Four strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae (yeasts)
Found on skins of grapes from jerez, and in bodega
Max % for flor to develop?
15.5%
What would adding SO2 to bio-ageing Sherry do to flor?
Inhibit it
Why are bio-ageing Sherry butts left 85-90% full with bung loosely inserted?
Keep flor in contact with oxygen
What conditions does flor need?
Max 15.5% alcohol
Oxygen
Warehouse temperature 16-20C
Humidity above 65%
What influences does flor have on wine?
Protects it from oxidation = stay pale lemon colour
Consumes alcohol and releases acetaldehyde = apple/brused apple, hay, chamomile, bitter
Consumes glycerol = lighter body and drier, more bitter taste
Reduces acetic acid levels
Is flor uniform everywhere?
No. Variation of strain prevalence from one bodega to next or one solera to next = different amounts of alcohol consumed, acetaldehyde produced etc
Autolysis in bio aged sherry?
Flor yeast reproduce and die. Dead cells fall to bottom; autolysis takes place = savoury, nutty flavours, enhanced texture
Benefit to bottling and selling small lots of Sherry throughout the year?
Keep it as fresh as poss at point of sale ie not sitting in a warehouse for long time
Oxidative ageing effects
Lemon to gold, amber, then brown
Increase alcohol slightly (evaporation)
Concentrate elements of wine (glycerol gives full round body)
Aromas of caramel and nuts
Does evaporation happen in bio ageing as well as oxidative?
Yes but consumption of alcohol by flor is more significant, so alcohol levels decrease rather than increase
Why is filtration needed in bio Sherry?
Remove flor yeast = otherwise could develop in bottle
Dry Sherry max RS
5g/L
Fino and Manzanilla style
100% bio aged Pale lemon Dry Light-med body Lowa cid Low alc Acetaldehyde, bread dugh, almonds
Manzanilla de Sanlucar de Barrameda
Wines matured in municipality of Sanlucar de Barrameda
Coastal town = maritime climate, not such extreme summers and winters
Ideal for flor growth (thicker flor here)
Manzanillas taste lighter and fresher than Finos. Why?
Greater protection from oxygen, lower levels of acetaldehyde.
Different strains of flor
Manzanilla Pasada
Manzanilla with a short period of oxidative ageing
Flor may be left to die naturally by not refreshing barrels
Then into a Manzanilla Pasada solera
Amontillado
Attributes of bio and oxi
Start as fino, re-fortified to 17% (kill flor), matured oxidatively in Amontillado solera
Inexpensive Amontillado made how
Use young bio-aged wines (youngest criaderas in a fino solera) then blended into Amontillado solera for a short time
Expensive Amontillado made how
Matured for longer, more complex
Palo Cortado
Difficult to define
aromas similar to Amontillado, palate similar to Oloroso
Under 5g/L
17-22%abv
Once these conditions are met, no stipulations on winemaking/maturation
Palo Cortado commonly made how
Spend a few years in fino solera
Put into a Palo Cortado solera
Usually picked as Second Classification as less delicate, more complex and less able to support flor
Palo Cortado vs Amontillado
PC generally less time bio ageing (acetaldehyde present but less prominent)
PC has higher glycerol, concentration = fuller body
Oloroso
Oxdiative
Fermented then fortified to 17% = no flor
Brown colour
Tertiary oxi aromas toffee walnut
En Rama
No legal definition
Straight from barrel, generally
No fining or filtration (or light fining/filter for export)
Fino En Rama most common
Naturally sweet Sherry made how
Leave grapes out to dry in sun for 2-3 weeks
Water evaporates, concentrating sugar
Raisin aromas develop
Ferment stops naturally around 4-6% (high sugar levels)
Fortified to 15-16%
Matured oxidatively = evaporation causes sugar and flavours to concentrate more
Minimum RS for PX
212 g/L
common to reach 450-550g/L
PX style
Full bodied (syrupy)
Lowa cid
Pronounced raisin, molasses, liquorice
Single varietal Msocatel
Less common
160g/L min RS
325-375g/L more common
Inexpensive sweetened Sherry: at what point are they sweeetened?
Just prior to bottling
Relatively young vines
Pale Cream
Biological ageing period prior to sweetening
RCGM added - no colour or flavour (ie PALE)
Subtle flor character
Medium sweet to sweet
Medium and Cream Sherry
Medium: both bio and oxi characteristics
Cream: oxidative characters only
Both blended with PX
Sweetness level for Medium and Cream Sherry
Medium: off-dry to sweet
Cream: always sweet
VOS
Very Old Sherry
Vinum Optimum Signatum
avg 20 yo
VORS
Very Old Rare Sherry
Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum
avg 30yo
VOS (20yo) and VORS (30yo) are checked for age how?
Carbon-14 testing in a lab
VOS and VORS sometimes sweetened. Why?
Sweeteened by blending a little PX to balance astringency (can’t judge the original dry flavours)
Which Sherry types can be VOS and VORS?
Amontillado
Palo Cortado
Oloroso
PX
Other age designations for SHerry (ie not VOS and VORS)
12- and 15-year-old
Land under vine for Sherry Zona de Produccion
6,989ha
Average vineyard holdings in Sherry
Small
3ha
What % of vineyards owned by co-op members?
Over 40%
Examples of shippers that own vineyards
Gonzalez Byass
Barbadillo
Estevez Group
Three categories of company in Sherry?
Bodegas de la Zona de Produccion (Production Bodega)
Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado (Ageing and storage bodega)
Bodegas de Crianza y Expedicion (Ageing and shipping)
Bodegas de la Zona de Produccion
Usually large co-op
Press grapes, ferment base wine
Must be in production zone but no zona de crianza
Cant label their own wine as Sherry or Manzanilalla DO
Bodegas de Crianza y Almacenado
Ageing and storage bodegas almacenista They mature wines Located in zona de crianza Wines must be sold to Bodegas de Crianza y Expedicion
Bodegas de Crianza y Expedicion
Shippers
Only group permitted to sell DO Jerez or DO Manzanilla
Must be in Zona de Crianza
Which shipper has an almacenista range?
Lustau
Consejo did what in 1996?
Lowered the minimum stockholing for shippers from 12,500hl to 500hl.
Larger almacenistas became shippers
Could market their own wines i.e. El Maestro Sierra and Bodegas Tradicion
General trend for Sherry sales
downward trend
peak in 1970s: 150million litres per year
2016: 34 million litres
Sales trend for sweetened Sherry?
Dramatic decline
Cream was biggest category, but dropped from 12.5m litres in 2006 to 7.4m litres in 2016
Biggest market for Sherry
Spain 12m litres (1/3 of total sales)
Largest export market for Sherry
UK (mostly sweetened)
Holland
Germany
USA