Port Flashcards
Methuen Treaty 1703
Ensured that Portuguese wines received lower rates of duty in England than any other country
Port vineyards demarcated when?
1756
Retaliation against poor quality imitators
Real Companhia Velha
Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Duoro
Created by Marques de Pombal, prime minister of Portugal
All Ports for export had to be bought from this company
Price fixing
Exclusive supplier of spirit for fortification
Problems for Port in early 19th century
Peninsular Wars
Portuguese Civil War
Mildew
Phylloxera
Small growers sold up - shippers took advantage of low prices and bought quintas
Early 1980s World Bank Scheme
Offered low interest loans to Douro growers to plant/replant up to 10ha of vines on either A or B grade, with only five prescribed varieties
Portugal joined EU when?
1986
From 1991, producers could do what?
Source aguardente on the open market = rise in quality of spirit = rise in quality of Port
Result of joining EU
What has depopulation of vineyard areas meant for Port winemaking?
Alternative solutions to traditional food treading (ie machines now)
DO Porto land under vine
32,000ha
43,000ha under vine in Douro
Climate of Douro Valley
Warm continental
Temperatures 40C plus in the summer
Freezing common in winter
Why is Douro Valley much warmer and drier than Porto and Villa Nova di Gaia?
Distance from Atalantic
Shelter from the Serra do Marao wind
Duoro Valley vineyard area follows the path of which river
Douro River
Three sub regions of Douro Vallsy
Baixo Corog
Cima Corgo
Douro Superior
West - East Douro sub regions
Baixo Corgo - Cima Corgo - Douro Superior
B - C - D
Which Douro sub-region coldest and wettest?
Baixo Corgo
Nearest the cold Atlantic coast
900mm rain
Cooler climate = inexpensive tawny and ruby
Climate of Cima Corgo
Warmer and drier than Baixo Corgo
700mm rain
Climate of Douro Superior
Furthest from coast
Hottest and driest sub region
450mm rain
Drought an issue
What accounts for range of microclimates in Douro Valley?
Winding river Duoro and its tributaries
Altitude
Aspect
=> differences in average temperature and sunlight within a single vineyard
Soils of Douro Valley
Stony, shallow
Free draining
Poor in nutrients = limits vigour
Underlying bedrock is schist
Significance of schist soil in Douro Valley
Ancient tectonic movements = splits into vertical layers, not horiztonal; vine roots can penetrate deep to find water
Gradient of slope in Douro
many slopes over 30%
Three vineyard layouts in Douro
- Socalcos (traditional, narrow terrace)
- Patamares (terraces with steep earth ramp)
- Vinho ao Alto (vertical rows up slopes)
Socalcos
Traditional vineyard layout
Narrow terraces supported by dry rock walls
6,000 vines/hectare
Not suitable for machine (+ labour to maintain)
Not considered for new vyds
Protected by UNESCO; cannot be converted
Patamares
Terraces supported by steep earth ramp (not stone wall)
Small tractors up/down slopes - tracks run diagnolly
Cheaper to implement and maintain than Socalcos
Problems: erosion nd weeds
3,000-3,500 vines/hea
Two kinds: large, wide (two rows of vines) vs. narrow (one row)
Wide version is the original, constructed when bulldozers were large and bulky
Narrow ones newer - new technology
Vinho ao Alto
Vines up vertical rows
Least expensive to plant and maintain
5,000 v/ha (efficient use of land)
Mechanisation not possible above 40% incline (patamares more likely to be used)
Use is limited (water runoff and erosion a problem)
Rootstocks in Port
Drought tolerant 110R 1103P (both hybrids of V rupestris and V berlandieri)
Training and pruning in Port?
Cordon trained and spur-pruned or Head-trained and cane-pruned VSP trellised to promote even sun exposure, allow for machines
Considerations when replanting vineyards in Douro Valley
Increasing vine density
Mechanisation
Best planting material for given land
Max yield in Port
55hl/ha
More likely around 30hl/ha (limited water, hazards, diseases)
Viti hazards in Port
Late spring frosts (highest altitude vineyards)
Wet weather disrupts flowering/fruit set
Downy mildew botrytis bunch rot
Herbicide use in Port
Used to control weeds on slopes of patamares
compete with vines for water and nutrients
Hand or machine harvest in Port
Hand
Topography not suitable for machine
Ageing regional population and depopulation = hard to get pickers
Five prescribed grapes Port
Touriga Franca Tinta Roriz Tinta Barroca Touriga Nacional Tinta Cao
Why is Port mostly a blend of varieties?
Historic field blends
Hedge against vintage variation (diff grapes ripen/don’t ripen depending on weather)
Add different characteristics for balance and complexity
Touriga Franca
Late ripen = warmest sites (low altitude, south facing)
Tight bunches & Thick skins = resist fungal
Vigorous (summer pruning to manage this
Adds: colour, tannin, acidity, juicy red/black fruit, flora
By far the most planted variety in Port
Most grown variety in Port
Touriga Franca
Tinta Roriz
aka Tempranillo, Aragonez Early ripen Cool sites (otherwise water stress) Add: body and deep colour High yields = can lack concentration if not managed
Tinta Barroca
Early ripen (coolest sites, high altitude, north-facing in BC and CC) Earthy flavours Can lack acidity Colour fade quickly High yields
Touriga Nacional
Mid-ripen Thick skin Deep colour, high tannin Retains acid Black fruit and floral, concentration Excessive veg vigour Coulure = lower yield, vine imbalance
Tinta Cao
Low yieling Small thick skinned Resist fungal Tolerates heat Concentrated, acidity, ageing
Malvasia Fina
aka Boal in Madeira Neutral wines, medium acid Full body Slightly honeyed White grape
Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains name in Port
Moscatel Galego Branco
Typical RS for Port
80-120g/L
Lagares
Shallow square tanks for foot reading
Modern/robotic lagares
Silicon “feet” do the stomping/punching down
Autovinifiers
Sealed concrete/steel tank
Cap management without electricity
Rising pressure of CO2 pushse juice through pipes into a holding tank
When pressure reaches a certain level, valve released and wine sprays over cap
Cheap option (no electricity)
Relies on CO2 so no extraction before ferment starts
Destem in Port?
Sometimes
Unripe stems = bitterness
Fully ripe stems = aid pressing after rferment
Fermentation temperatures red Port
28-32C
Warm enough to extract, not so warm that fermentation speeds up (reducing extraction time)
White Port ferment temp
17-22C
Why ambient yeast common in Port?
Sufficient to start ferment
Completing ferment to dryness not a concern
abv for aguardente
77% (+/- 0.5%)
Port strength after fortification
19-22%
Port ferment stopped at what abv%
5-7%
Wine is drained from skins before aguardente added in Port. True/False
True
Draining must be as efficient as poss; must continues fermenting during this time, using up sugar that may be desired in final wine
Modern vessels designed to drain quickly
Acidification in Port?
Common
Acidity can be low and pH high
MLF for Port?
No. Lactic acid bacteria unable to tolerate the high alcohol in the wine after fortification
Ports spend their first winter where?
Douro
Left to clarify before racking off gross lees
Wines shipped to V N d Gaia in spring
When is Port blended?
At any time in process
Port is a blend of what kinds of things?
Vineyard parcels
Grape vareitites
Vintages
Balseiros
Large oax vats 100,000L
Store wines and keep fresh
Pipes
600L barrels
Gentle oxidation
New oak in Port?
No. New barrels used to make dry/unfortified wine for a couple of vintages before Port
Ruby Port style
Medium body Medium tannin Red and black fruit Drink early Primary fruit
Can be simple fruit flavour, harsh alcohol
Basic Tawny Port style
Often lighter than Ruby
But aged for much the same amount of time = lighter extraction gives paler colour
Reserve Ruby
More concentrated and higher quality than basic Ruby
No required ageing
Reserve Tawny
Aged in wood 6 years min
Tawny with age
Aged in pipes 620-640L
Controlled exposure to oxygen
Tannins soften over time, alcohol integrates
Primary - > Tertiary
Clarification and stabilisation naturally over time
What does age indication mean on a tawny?
eg 10yo, 20yo etc
Not the minimum amount of time, but reflective of characteristics of a wine of that age
Racking and topping up for age indicated Tawny?
Yes, need to do it because of evaporation
Adds cost
Colheita
Tawny Port from one vintage
Aged in small barrels min 7 years
Label states vintage and year of bottling (not all of it needs bottling at once, depending on demand)
Vintage Port: when and how is it declared?
Declared vintage
Register intent to release a vintage in second year after harvest = approved by IVDP tasting panel
Some vintages unanimous: 2011, 2016
Others split opinion: 2015
Key grapes (2) for vintage Port
Touriga Franca
Touriga Nacional
Colour, tannin and flavour concentration for long term ageing
Ageing for vintage Port
Maximum of three years in large old wood
Most bottled during second spring after harvest
Usually 18-20 months in wood
Vintage Port fined and filtered?
No. Heavy deposit of sediment on opening and pouring
Young Vintage Port style
Deep colour
Full body
High tannin
Pronounced ripe black fruit, floral
Older Vintage Port style
Dried fruit
Alcohol and tannins integrate
Why are Vintage Ports highly profitable for the producer?
High selling price
Low cost: limited time in wood and early release from winery
Examples of Single Quinta Port
Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas
Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos
Crusted Port
NV
aged in wood two years, bottled without fining or filtering
= deposit or “crust” forms
After three years can have “Bottle matured” on label
Similar style to Vintage
Good ageing potential
LBV
Single year Bottled 4-6 years after harvest Not same quality fruit as vintage Port Longer ageing before bottling Ready to drink Aged in old wood or stainless steel (no oxidation) Filtered often More intensity, body and tannin than Ruby
Unfiltered LBV style
More full bodied than filtered
Benefit from bottle maturation
Who invented rosé Port? When?
Croft
Late 2000s
How is rosé Port made?
Black grapes from coolest areas (high altitude or Baixo Corgo)
Short maceration, drain free run juice and clarify
Ferment at low temp = retain berry fruit aroma
Neutral as possible aguardente
White Port style(s)?
Range of styles
Varying degrees of sweetness and oxidation
Fruity unoxidized (Muscatel)
Highly oxidised (Malvasia)
Fruity, unoxidised white Port. Made how?
Muscatel
Crush, add SO2, macerate a few hours chilled
Drain must, press, juice is fermented off skins at 17-18C (retain fruit)
Store in steel or large old oak
Lemon colour, medium body, stone-fruit and floral
Oxidised white Port. Made how?
Malvasia
Subtle flavours become honeyed and nutty with age
Longer time on skins, warmer ferment to extract phenolics (support during ageing)
Age for years in small cask (like high-end Tawny)
Amber or brown colour, caramel, citrus peel, dried stone fruit, nuts
Allowed labelling terms for white Port?
Same as Tawny ie
Reserve (min 7 years)
10, 20, 30, 40 yo (characteristics)
Colheita (single vitnage, 7 years ageing)
Land ownership in Douro?
Very fragmented 21,000 landowners 43% own less than 0.5ha 92% own less than 5ha Most sell to co-op or producer
Co-ops produce what % of wine in Douro?
20%
Could sell under own brand but often sell to shippers
How many producers in Port?
30-35 producing significant volumes
Five large group companies of producers?
Porto Cruz (Gran Cruz)
Symington Family Estates (Cockburns, Dows, Grahams, Warres)
Sogrape (Sandeman, Offley, Ferreira)
The Fladgate Partnership (Taylors, Fonseca, Croft, Krohn)
Sogevinus (Burmester, Barros, Calem, Kopke)
What brands does Symington own?
Cockburns
Dows
Grahams
Warres
What brands does the Fladgate Partnership own
Taylors
Fonseca
Croft
Krohn
Top five producer groups (Symington, Cruz etc) producer what % of sales volume?
80%
What does the IVDP regulate?
Controls and supervises production and trade of wine in Douro (port and unfortified)
Regulates amount of Port produced in any one year (the beneficio)
Holds the register of vineyards
Register of companies involved in production and shipping
Controls volume of Port released to market in a year (max 1/3 a shippers total stocks)
Analayses and tastes Port wines to ensure they meet specifications
Promotes Douro wines
What is the Beneficio?
A system that regulates the amount of Port must (grape juice designated for Port) that can be produced in a single year
“Beneficio” means the system AND the amount
How are vineyards rated for Port production?
Each parcel classified for its capacity to produce quality grapes
Location, altitude, aspect, soil and grape varieties
Parcel receives a numerical value for each factor
Final total used to give parcel a letter (A to I)
What letter indicates vineyards of highest quality in Port?
A
Highest quality ranking = allowed to produce the most Port
Vineyards rated below F can make Port wine. T/F?
False
They can make unfortified wine or distilled into spirits
How is amount of Port must (ie Beneficio) decided?
Different quantity every year
Agreed between growers, producers and IVDP
Considers: market demand, current stocks available in market
Aim: keep grapea dn wine prices stable by balancing supply and demand
Why is Beneficio unpopular with producers/growers?
Demand overall has declined
Volume of Port allowed to be produced is reduced BUT
land under vine expanded, unfortified wine permitted
oversupply of grapes for unfortified Douro
prices not fixed by Benefico = very low prices
Port producers feel they are subsidising the industry for unfortified Douro wines by paying artificially high prices for Port grapse
Estimated Port production and sales in 2019
Production: 75 million litres
Sales: 73 million litres
Sales trends for Port
Three decades of growth end of 20th century
Peak at millennium
Steady decline since
% of export sales volume for Port
82%
Biggest export market for Port?
France
Particularly inexpensive Port, drunk as aperitif
