Sediment Transport And Deposition

Question 1

What is wave refraction?

Answer 1

Wave refraction is the bending of waves as they approach the shore at an angle.

Question 2

What are wave crests?

Answer 2

Wave crests are the highest points of a wave.

Question 3

What is wave energy?

Answer 3

Wave energy is the energy carried by ocean waves.

Question 4

What happens to wave energy when it converges on headlands?

Answer 4

Wave energy converges on headlands, increasing its intensity.

Question 5

What occurs when wave energy diverges?

Answer 5

Wave energy diverges, decreasing its intensity.

Question 6

What is sediment movement?

Answer 6

Sediment movement refers to the transport and deposition of sediment along the coast.

Question 7

What is a quiet beach?

Answer 7

A quiet beach is a location with minimal wave activity and sediment movement.

Question 8

What factors influence sediment deposition?

Answer 8

Factors influencing deposition include wave energy, sediment supply, and coastal topography.

Question 9

What is a sediment cell?

Answer 9

A sediment cell is a distinct area where sediment moves around but not usually from one cell to another.

Question 10

How many sediment cells are there in England and Wales?

Answer 10

There are 11 sediment cells in England and Wales.

Question 11

What usually marks a new sediment cell?

Answer 11

A new sediment cell is usually marked by a headland or a change in coastal features.

Question 12

What does the concept of sediment cells help us to understand?

Answer 12

The concept of sediment cells helps us to understand sediment transport processes.

Question 13

Fill in the blank: Longshore drift begins when waves approach the beach at an _______.

Answer 13

angle.

Question 14

What happens to sediment as it is carried up the beach during longshore drift?

Answer 14

Sediment is carried up the beach at an angle with the swash.

Question 15

What happens to sediment during backwash in longshore drift?

Answer 15

Sediment travels with the backwash, which moves down the beach in a straight line.

Question 16

True or False: The backwash travels down the beach in a straight line due to gravity.

Answer 16

True.

Question 17

What is longshore drift?

Answer 17

The movement of sediment along the coast due to wave action

Longshore drift occurs when waves approach the shore at an angle, causing sediment to be transported along the coastline.

Question 18

What happens at the turn of a longshore drift current?

Answer 18

The current spreads out and loses energy, leading to deposition

This deposition contributes to the formation of features like spits.

Question 19

What is a spit?

Answer 19

A depositional landform that extends from the shoreline

A spit is formed by the deposition of sediment as a result of longshore drift.

Question 20

What is swash-aligned sediment?

Answer 20

Sediment that moves up and down the beach with little lateral transfer

This occurs when wave crests approach parallel to the coast.

Question 21

What is drift-aligned sediment?

Answer 21

Sediment that is transferred along the coast by longshore drift

This occurs when wave crests approach the coast at an angle.

Question 22

What are the two types of beaches based on sediment alignment?

Answer 22

Swash-aligned and drift-aligned

These terms describe the orientation of wave crests relative to the coastline.

Question 23

Fill in the blank: A _______ is formed when sediment is deposited by the action of longshore drift.

Answer 23

[spit]

Question 24

True or False: Backwash is the movement of water up the beach.

Answer 24

False

Backwash refers to the movement of water back down the beach after a wave breaks.

Question 25

What is the role of sediment transport in landform creation?

Answer 25

It creates distinctive landforms through processes like deposition ## Footnote Sediment transport is crucial for shaping coastal features.

Question 26

What is the significance of prevailing wind direction in coastal processes?

Answer 26

It influences wave direction and sediment movement ## Footnote Prevailing winds can affect the angle at which waves approach the shore.

Question 27

Describe the difference between swash-aligned and drift-aligned beaches.

Answer 27

Swash-aligned: limited lateral movement; Drift-aligned: consistent longshore drift ## Footnote This difference affects the formation and shape of the beaches.