Raw Materials Flashcards
State the 4 origins of raw materials.
- Animal
- Vegetal
- Chemical Process
- Mineral
Describe an excipient. What are 2 categories?
An excipient is the base in which active ingredients are added to be more readily absorbable by the skin.
The 2 categories of excipients are:
- Gels
- Emulsions
What are the 2 categories of emulsions and what skin types are they best suited for?
- Water in oil emulsions - would be used on a client who is lacking oils and is therefore very dry.
- Oil in water emulsions - best suited for a client who is already producing too much oil and so the emulsion is not adding to the problem.
Describe an emulsifier.
Emulsifiers are ingredients that keep oil and water solutions mixed well.
List manufacturers guidelines.
- Elimination of materials containing led, arsenic, mercury, etc - i.e. toxic materials.
- The material must not irritate the skin surface.
- It should not give rise to allergic reaction during the experiments preceding the final perfecting of a product, nor widely known to be an allergen. Manufacturers have a list of known allergens.
- It should not be a potential carcinogen (in the long run).
- It should not be acanthotic (Acanthosis is a “dermatosis” characterized by a hypertrophy of the Malpighi prickle cell.) It produces a considerable thickening of healthy skin.
- It’s colour should be attractive to look at for sales ability on the shelf.
- It should not spoil, nor cause any deterioration, putrefaction or mould once the product is on the market, before the expiry date.
- It should not have an unpleasant smell. The selection of raw material is therefore particularly tricky.
- It should be free of bacteria at the time of retail.
Why does an esthetician study raw materials?
They have to know what their products are made of and what their action will be and why they act in such a way. Therefore an esthetician must have an idea of the methods of manufacturing, and know the properties of the raw material that enter into the composition of these products, The esthetician should know what they look like, and when and how they should be used.
Describe a surfactant.
Surfactants are ingredients in cosmetics that allow the cosmetic to be able to slip across or onto your skin. They are one of the biggest categories of cosmetic ingredients. Surfactants also include foaming agents in detergents and soaps used for cleansing. They break up oils and fats and other debris and help it to separate from the skin.
Describe liposomes.
Liposomes are hollow spheres made of phospholipids. (Like a balloon made up of lipids or fats). The liposome may be loaded or implanted with a nutrient. As the liposome penetrates the skin it eventually will dissolve and release the nutrient inside to carry out its function.
Describe humectants and give examples.
Humectants are water-binding agents that are hydrophilic or water loving.
Examples of humectants are:
- Urea
- Phospholipids
- Alpha hydroxy acids
- Sodium PCA.
Describe polymers.
Polymers are part of the encapsulated concept like the liposome, used for the controlled release effect. Polymers improve the delivery of nutrients and skin protection and the duration of moisturizers.
Do paraben preservatives need to be used to keep products stable? Explain your answer.
No, they aren’t required. A lot of skin care products are moving to more natural/beneficial preservatives that are dual purpose in the sense that they keep the product stable and preserved but they are also beneficial for the skin as well. An example would be urea.
Describe free radicals.
Oxygen atoms that are unstable because they have lost an electron in their outer orbit. Attracted to fats or lipids which have extra electrons available to stabilize these oxygen atoms. Because the cell membrane is made of lipids free radicals are attracted to them and when enough free radicals attach themselves to the cell membrane they reduce its permeability.
- Proteins, fats, carbohydrates and oxygen cannot get into the cell.
- Waste toxins and carbon dioxide cannot get out of the cell
- Therefore the cell will die.
Free radicals occur naturally in the body, but can also be contributed by other factors. What are they?
- Sun exposure.
- Smoking
- Alcohol
- Pollutants
- Stress
How do antioxidants help free radicals? Give examples.
Antioxidants work to supply electrons to the atom when they need to be stabilized.
Some common antioxidants used in skin care ingredients are:
- Tocopherol - Vitamin A
- Retinal Palmitate - Vitamin E
- Ascorbic Acid - Vitamin C
Peptides are the main component of ________.
Protein
What is the main benefit of alginates?
They are extracted from seaweed, and very popular with beauty masks and fat-reducing products designed for the throat and body. They normalize the skin moisture content and provide suppleness to the epidermis.
Azulene is commonly used for ____________ skin types.
Irritated and sensitive skin types.
Camphor may be made from turpentine. T or F.
True
List 3 preservatives that also benefit the skin in a positive way.
Magnesium Chloride - used in creams and tonics and helps to refine the skin.
Sodium Chloride - used to treat inflamed lesions.
Urea - increases absorption of other active ingredients, relieves itchiness and helps leave the skin feeling soft and supple.
Beeswax has ___________, _____________ and ___________ properties.
Germicidal, skin softening and elasticity enhancing properties.
It is also anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibactericidal.
Tissular extracts are from animal origin. T or F.
True
What is the source of royal jelly?
The food produced by the front salivation glands of the worker bees for the nourishment of the queen bee.
Royal jelly is rejuvenating. T or F.
True
Mineral oil is an excellent excipient. T or F.
False - it is a surface product because it does not penetrate the epidermis due to its large molecular structure.
Explain the benefit of salicylic acid, and the disadvantage to its use.
It helps to dissolve the top layer of the corneum and improves the look and feel of skin. Also acts as an antiseptic, because of this it is widely used in acne soaps and lotions. In high concentrations it can be absorbed through the skin and may cause skin redness and rashes.
_______ & ________ are used for physical protection against UVA & UVB.
- Zinc Oxide
- Titanium Dioxide
Hydroquinone is used in ___________ creams.
Bleaching
Menthol has a mild _________ effect on the skin.
- Analgesic
- It is also an antiseptic.
Witch hazel is used as a topical treatment for _______ skin conditions.
- Skin irritations
- Insect bites
- Bruises
Arnica extract is used for _____ skin conditions.
- Couperose condition
- Acne condition