Quiz 4 Flashcards
ASTM International D6193-97
The Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches designation for classifying stitches and seams
Stitch
The unit of thread formation in production of seams and stitching
Seams
Formed by a series of stitches joining two or more pieces of fabric together
Lockstitch machine
Requires both a needle thread and a bobbin thread to form a stitch
Chain stitch machine
Interlocks one or more threads to form a stitch. No bobbin—only needles and threads
Stitch class
A three digit number that identifies the stitch configuration. The first number identifies the class and the last two digits identify the specific stitch type within the class
100 class stitches
Chain stitches are formed by a single needle thread which interloops with itself
200 class stitches
Hand stitches and a few machine imitations
300 class stitches
Lock stitches formed by a needle thread and a bobbin thread
400 class stitches
Multithread chain stitches formed by multiple interlooped needle threads
500 class stitches
Over edge stitches that are formed over the edge of the fabric by multiple interlooped needle threads
600 class stitches
Cover stitches that are formed by multiple interlooped needle threads
Safety stitches
Two parallel rows of stitches that produce a very secure seam; formed by a row of overedge stitches and a row of either multithread chain stitches or lock stitches and found in the 500 stitch class only
Seam classification
The position of pieces relative to each other at the point where they are sewn
Seam allowance
The extension between the row of stitching and the edges of the fabric. Standard industry seam allowances are 1/2 inch in straight seams and 1/4 inch on curves. Tailored apparel at designer price points may contain 1 inch seam allowances on major vertical seams.
Seam class
Two uppercase letters identify the seam class and are followed by a lowercase letter or letters that identify the seam type
SS seam class
Superimposed seam that is formed by stacking plies of fabric on top of one another and stitching them near the edge.
How many variations are in the SS seam class?
54
LS seam class
lapped seam that is formed by overlapping the seam allowances of two or more plies of fabric and sewing them together
How many variations are in the LS seam class?
102
BS seam class
Bound seam that is formed by encasing the raw edges of a seam with fabric strips
How many variations are in the BS seam class?
18
FS seam class
Flat seam is formed by joining fabric plies by butting the raw edges together and securing them with a 600 class cover stitch or zigzag stitch
How many variations are in the FS seam class?
6
OS seam class
Ornamental stitching is decorative details such as tucks, pleats, piping, embroidery. Bridge the gap between stitch types and true seams
How many variations are in the OS seam class?
8
EF seam class
Edge finishes that prevent raveling of woven fabrics and curling of knit fabrics. Used at hems and facings. Bridge the gap between stitch types and true seams
How many variations are in the EF seam class?
32
What is the scale for spec sheets?
1/8” on paper = 1” real life
How many inches do you add to a circumference that is not chest width?
4
How many inches do you add to chest width circumference?
7
HPS
High point of shoulder
Tolerance
The difference between the allowable minimum and maximum on a process or finished measurement
Raw material standards
For fabrics and findings and are used to communicate with suppliers during the planning stages of product development
Specification libraries
A database of previously developed styles, patterns, and measurement specifications that can be recalled and reused within specification packages for new styles
Size specifications
The measurements for an individual style that are based on the combination of body measurements, functional ease required for body movement, and styling ease to achieve the desired look for the product
Croquis
An illustrated body form used for creating proportional technical flat drawings of garments
CF
Center front
CB
Center back
SS
Side seam
TM
Total measurement or circumference
Stitch classes
100 Single thread chain stitches 200 Hand stitches 300 Lock stitches 400 Multithread chain stitches 500 Over edge stitches 600 Cover stitches
Seam classes
SS Superimposed seams LS Lapped seams BS Bound seams FS Flat seams OS Ornamental stitching EF Edge finish stitching