Q1: Different Weaves Flashcards
Basic weaves
Plain weave
This is the simplest and also the least expensive weave type. The weft threads pass over and under one warp thread alternately. Plain weave fabrics are more snag resistant but wrinkle more, and have a lower tear strength compared to the other basic weaves. The two sides of the fabric look the same – there is thus no difference between the face or back of the fabric. Examples of cloth woven in plain weave are muslin, percale, calico, cheesecloth, gingham, batiste, lawn, organdy, handkerchief linen and chiffon.
Variations of plain weave
Basket weave
Rib or cord weave
Variations of plain weave
Basket weave
Basket weave is a type of plain weave with two or more warp yarns interlaced as a unit with two or more filling yarns. Examples are monk’s cloth, Hardanger cloth, Oxford cloth and hopsack.
Variations of plain weave
Rib or cord weave
This is also a variation of plain weave. Heavy yarns are used in either the warp or filling direction, or by grouping yarns in specific areas of the warp or filling, or by having more warp yarns than filling. Examples are broadcloth, poplin, faille, bengaline, grosgrain, dimity and Bedford cloth.
Basic weaves
Twill weave
Twill-weave fabrics are characterised by a diagonal line on the surface of the fabric. The yarns in twill fabrics are usually tightly packed, producing a strong and durable cloth. They are more expensive to produce than plain weaves. Twill weaves are more wrinkle resistant, more resistant to soiling and showing soil, heavier, and have a more pliable drape and hand compared to plain weave fabrics. They are, however, more prone to ravelling. The prominence of the twill line depends to some extent on the length over which the yarns ”float” across each other. Twill fabrics have either a left- or right-hand diagonal and they can be weft-faced (more weft yarns floating on the face), warp-faced (more warp yarns floating on the face) or balanced (warp and weft equally prominent). In the simplest twill weave, the filling crosses over two warp yarns and then under one, over two, under one, and so on. In the next row, the sequence begins one yarn further on. There are a number of types of twill weaves, herringbone twill being one of them.
Examples of twill weave are chino, drill, denim, gabardine, serge, surah, wool sharkskin, some flannel and some tweeds.
Basic weaves
Satin weave
Satin fabrics have long floats on the surface. A float is a portion of a warp yarn that ex- tends over two or more adjacent filling yarns. These long floats reflect light and create a shiny and smooth appearance. Satin fabrics are also frequently used as lining fabrics as they easily slip over other fabrics. Satin fabrics are not as durable as plain or twill weaves because the floats are easily snagged. Examples of satin weaves are antique satin, slipper satin, bridal satin, sateen and moleskin. A satin is a warp-faced fabric, whereas sateen is a weft-faced fabric.
Complex weaves
Dobby weave Jacquard weave Leno or gauze weave Pile weaving Double weave
Complex weaves
Dobby weave
Dobby weaves have small designs, such as dots or geometric patterns. The designs are angular and repetitive; even floral designs appear geometric. A dobby loom can have as many as 24 to 40 harnesses. Dobby designs are always small and do not make use of long floats. Examples of dobby weave are birdseye, huckaback and piqué.
Complex weaves
Jacquard weave
Fabrics such as damask, brocatelle and brocade, which have highly complicated woven designs, are woven on Jacquard looms. The Jacquard mechanism (named after its inven- tor, the Frenchman Joseph Jacquard) can lift one or more warp yarns independently of the others. The pattern to be woven is punched out on cards, reminiscent of computer punch cards or the cards used for machine knitting. Today the Jacquard loom is controlled by computer and not by cards. Bear in mind that a Jacquard fabric does not have holes in it; the holes are in the cards which control which warp yarn will be lifted.
Note the differences between brocade and damask. Damask is a reversible fabric with a figured design on a satin-weave background, usually only in one colour. It is flatter than brocade. Brocade has a more prominent, raised design on the front with the coloured yarns not being used carried as long floats on the back of the fabric. Brocade, unlike damask, has only one right side.
Tapestry-like fabrics are also made on Jacquard machines. These fabrics have highly pat- terned designs on the face with the same designs, but in a different colour, on the back.
The Jacquard principle is used for weaving, knitting and lace making.
Complex weaves
Leno or gauze weave
In leno weave, pairs of warp yarns are twisted around each other between filling yarns. Examples are grenadine, marquisette and interlock embroidery canvass.
Complex weaves
Pile weaving
A woven pile fabric has an extra set of warp or weft yarns interlaced with the ground warp and weft in such a way that loops or cut ends stand up densely on the surface of the fabric. Note that weaving is not the only way in which a pile fabric can be created. It can also be done by tufting, knitting or sew-knitting, but then we cannot talk of pile weaving.
In some pile fabrics, such as velveteen and corduroy, an extra set of weft yarns floats over three or more warp yarns. After the fabric has been woven, these floats are cut and brushed to form a pile. In other pile fabrics such as velvet, velour and Wilton and Axminster rugs, the pile is formed from an additional set of warp yarns. Warp pile fabrics can be made by any one of three methods: (1) the wire-cut pile method, (2) the looped pile or terry cloth method, or (3) the double-weave method.
Complex weaves
Double-weave
Double-weave fabrics consist of two sets of warp yarns, two sets of weft yarns, and sometimes, a fifth set of yarns that holds the two layers together. Warp-pile fabrics such as velvet are often constructed as a double-weave fabric.
List the advantages and disadvantages of the three basic weave types (plain, satin and twill).
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List examples of fabrics produced by each of the following weaving methods: plain weave basket weave rib weave satin weave twill weave dobby weave Jacquard weave leno weave pile weave double weave
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