Brainscape's Knowledge GenomeTM

Browse over 1 million classes created by top students, professors, publishers, and experts.


See full index

Marine Science > Physical Oceanography > Flashcards

Physical Oceanography Flashcards

You may prefer our related Brainscape-certified flashcards:
Biology 101 flashcards
1
Q

% of water that the ocean holds
ice
ground water

A

97.6–> 137010^6km3
2.1
0.5
rest <0.001

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

Unique properties of seawater

A

High heat capacity- raise temp of 1g by 1degrees

greater solvent power than any other substance

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

Why is temperature important

A

reflects
the amount of heat held and transported by
the ocean.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

temperature range in ocean

A

-2–28

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

The temperature of the ocean is primarily

influenced by

A

the heating at the air-sea

interface

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

define thermocline

A

a steep temperature gradient in a body of water such as a lake, marked by a layer above and below which the water is at different temperatures

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

Salinity

A

Total dissolved solids (mainly sodium chloride,
or “table salt”)
- About 3.5% by weight (average seawater)
- Usually expressed as 35 0/00 (parts per
thousand, ppt or practical salinity units, psu)
- Varies geographically according to
Evaporation, precipitation, rivers, ice
formation and ice melt.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

Evaporation versus precipitation

A

evaporation generally exceeds precipitation
The balance is restored by rain over the
continents, returning water via rivers

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

Define halocline

A

a well-defined vertical salinity gradient in ocean or other saline water.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

define density (p)

A

Density is the mass of sea water per unit volume.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

Density depends on

A

Density depends on salinity, temperature and
pressure.
- Density increases with increasing salinity
- Density increases with decreasing temperature
• Seawater density ranges from 1021 – 1070 kg/m³
,
the average density is 1025 kg/m³
increases with pressure

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

lighter water is

A
  • warmer
  • less saline
  • shallower
How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

denser water is

A

colder
• more saline
• deeper

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

define pycnocline

A

layer in an ocean or other body of water in which water density increases rapidly with depth

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

NADW

AABW

A

North Atlantic Deep Water

Antarctic Bottom Water

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

3 defining characteristics of GFD

A

Geophysical Fluid Dynamics
aspect
ratio, stratification, and rotatio

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
17
Q

Oceans aspect ratio is large or small

A

large
horizontal/ vertical scale
like a piece of paper

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
18
Q

The Coriolis force (rotation force)

A

• acts at right-angles to the actual direction
of water motion.
• causes water to move to the right in the
northern hemisphere
• causes water to move to the left in the
southern hemisphere.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
19
Q

How do surface winds drag the ocean

A

friction

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
20
Q

surface winds are

A

a source of energy for the ocean

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
21
Q

The extent to which the wind drags the surface

water depends on:

A
  • wind strength
  • wave conditions
  • density stratification
22
Q

give an example of an energy sink

A

friction- causes mixing in the ocean

23
Q

Interior friction

A

depends on the density and the

currents

24
Q

•Bottom friction

A

depends on the bottom currents

and the bottom roughness

25
Q

Ocean pressure

A 
is the weight of seawater
per unit area
mainly a function of depth
Pressure in the ocean increases at a rate of
about 1 “atmosphere” per 10 m of water
26
Q

Pressure=

A

Heightdensityg

27
Q

Pressure gradient force

A

occurs when there is a horizontal pressure difference

high to low p

28
Q

Explain Ekman transport

A

• When the wind blows on the ocean, the wind drags the
surface layer with it.
• Rotation causes the surface layer to deflect to the right
(NH) and move at 45o to the wind direction.
• Interior friction causes the surface layer to drag on the
layer below.
• Rotation causes this layer to again deflect to the right
(NH).
• The resulting currents are called Ekman transport

29
Q

geostrophic balance and the

resulting current is referred to as a geostrophic current

A

• Suppose we have a difference in sea-level height. Water
will be accelerated from the region of high pressure
towards the region of low pressure.
• As the water starts to move, the Coriolis effect (rotation)
deflects the water to the right (NH) or left (SH).
• The water keeps getting deflected until the force due to
the pressure difference balances the Coriolis force.

30
Q

Most of earth’s surface wind energies is concentrated in

A

the easterlies and westerlies

31
Q

Gyre

A

Due to wind-generated pressure differences and the
Coriolis effect water typically moves in a circular
pattern

32
Q

effects of ocean currents

A

transfer heat from tropical to polar regions
•influence weather and climate
•distribute nutrients

33
Q

Upwelling

A

refers to the process where deeper, colder, and
potentially nutrient-rich water is brought to the
surface

34
Q

Why is upwelling important

A

it uplifts nutrients to depths where there is light
(recall that both light and nutrients are needed for
photosynthesis to occur).
more nutrients at greater depth

35
Q

Equatorial upwelling

A

The winds are predominantly easterly (or westward)
along the Equator.
• In the southern hemisphere the Ekman transport is to
the left of the wind.
• In the northern hemisphere the Ekman transport is to
the right of the wind.
• This corresponds to a divergence in the Ekman transport
at the equator and results in equatorial upwelling

36
Q

Wind-driven coastal upwelling

A

In coastal regions, when the wind blows parallel to the
coast the Ekman transport is either directed onshore or
offshore.
• When the Ekman transport is offshore, upwelling results.
• The offshore Ekman transport is “balanced” by an
onshore flow below the surface Ekman layer.
• As a result, colder water is uplifted to the surface.
• When the Ekman transport is onshore, downwelling
results. This is the opposite to upwelling

37
Q

Spring Tides

A 
Occur
When the Moon
Pulls along the same
Line as the Sun. (new
and full moon).
38
Q

Neap Tides

A 
Occur
When the Moon
Pulls at 90o to the
Sun (first and last
quarter moon)
39
Q

Tidal waves

A

have wavelengths (L) on the order of
1/2 the diameter of the earth or about 20,000 km.
• Since the ocean is about 4km deep, and since
L/20 is about 1000km, tidal waves are shallow
water waves

40
Q

What are waves (4 points)

A

A wave transfers a disturbance from one part of a
material to another
2. The disturbance is propagated through the material
without any substantial overall motion of the material
itself.
3. The disturbance is propagated without any significant
distortion of the wave form.
4. The disturbance appears to be propagated with constant
speed (unless fluid depth is shallow and changing).

41
Q

what is being transported by a wave

A

energy

42
Q

Surface waves

A

Waves which occur at an interface (wind raindrops earthquakes)
Generating force = Restoring force

43
Q

Surface waves on water–> 2 restoring forces?

A

Gravitational force

surface tension

44
Q

Pressure in the vertical & buoyancy

Archimedes principle:

A

the upthrust force = the weight of water displaced

45
Q

capillary waves

A

For waves with wavelengths less than about
1.7 cm, the principal restoring force is surface
tension

46
Q

Gravity Waves

A

Travel On Density Surfaces

47
Q

Wave Speed

A

(length of wave) / (wave period)

48
Q

The period of a wave remains the same

A

(determined by generating force)

49
Q

Wave trains

A

packets of similar waves with approximately the same

period and speed

50
Q

Wave refraction

A

close to the shoreline. Waves
approaching shore at an angle first “feel bottom” close
to shore, slowing them down there and causing waves
to align themselves to the coastline

51
Q

As a wave breaks, the energy it received from the wind is

dissipated.- where does it go

A

ØSome energy is reflected back out to sea.
ØMost of the energy is dissipated as heat and sound
(the ‘roar’ of the surf) in the final small-scale mixing of
foaming water, sand and shingle.
ØSome energy is used in fracturing large rock or
mineral particles into smaller ones.
ØSome energy is used to move sediments.

Marine Science (4 decks)

Brainscape helps you reach your goals faster, through stronger study habits.
© 2024 Bold Learning Solutions. Terms and Conditions