Physical - Coastal Environments Flashcards

1
Q

Creation of a wave

A

Friction with wind (fetch) sets the wave into motion
IN shallow water, friction with the seabed causes the wave to tip forward
Wave eventually breaks (Swash)
Water runs back down the beach under gravity (Backwash)

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2
Q

Constructive waves

A

Strong Swash, Weak backwash, Long wavelength, Shallow gradient waves, Deposition

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3
Q

Destructive Waves

A

Weak Swash, Strong Backwash, Tall waves, short wavelength, Beach eroded

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4
Q

Hydraulic Action
def

A

Force from the waves hitting the cliff face, forcing pockets of air into cracks and crevices, causing them to widen

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5
Q

Abrasion
def

A

Waves picking up sediment and hurling them at cliffs, causing them to wear away

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6
Q

Corrosion (solution)
def

A

The dissolving of rocks by sea water

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7
Q

Attrition
def

A

Material carried by waves becomes rounded and smaller over time as it collides with other material

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8
Q

Weathering
def

A

The breakdown of rocks which is caused by freeze-thaw and the growth of salt crystals, by acid rain and the growth of plant roots

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9
Q

Erosion
def

A

The wearing away of rocks by wing and rain

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10
Q

Mass movement
def

A

The removal of the cliff face material under the influence of gravity in the form of rock falls, slumping and landslides

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11
Q

Concordant coastline
Discordant Coastline
def

A

Concordant coastline: the outcrops of rock runs parallel to the coastline

Discordant coastline: the outcrops of rock run perpendicular to the coastline

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12
Q

Formation of headlands and bays (6)

A
  • At a discordant coastline
  • Outcrops of rock run perpendicular to the coast
  • Soft rock is eroded faster
  • Forms Bays
  • Hard rock is more resistant and is eroded slower
  • Forms headlands
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13
Q

Headland to Stump (6)

A
  • Headland is eroded by hydraulic action, abraision
  • Causes a crack to expand into a cave
  • Cave expand to other side, forms arch
  • Top of the arch collapses under gravity
  • Leaves a stack
  • Stack is eroded and collapses, leaves stump
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14
Q

Formation of a beach (6)

A
  • Formed by the deposition of material
  • Material is eroded from elsewhere along the coastline
  • Attrition causes smaller, rounder sediment
  • In sheltered bays, shorter fetch
  • Weaker waves, constructive
  • Causes deposition of sediment
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15
Q

Formation of a spit (4)

A
  • At a change in the direction of a coastline or an estuary
  • Material transported by longshore drift is deposited
  • Causes a spit to grow
  • Salt marsh forms behind the spit, stabilising it
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16
Q

Formation of sand dunes (4)

A
  • Sand from beaches is blown inland by wind
  • Forms sand dunes
  • Vegetation stabilises dunes
  • Ridges of sand dunes form parallel to the coastline
17
Q

Human Activity: Settlemet

A
  • Coastal lowlands attract people
  • Most densely populated area are located on the coast
18
Q

Human Activity: Development

A
  • Coast offers economic opportunities
  • Eg. Land for agriculture, fishing, trade, tourism
  • May have negative impact on the coastal environment
19
Q

Human Activity: Coastline management

A
  • Hard and soft engineering methods to prevent impacts of erosion
20
Q

Factors affecting distribution of Coral Reefs [5]

A
  • Temperature: Ideal temp is 23-25 C
  • Light: Need light for photosynthesis
  • Water depth: Need light, shallow water, less than 25m deep
  • Salinity: Can only survive in saltwater ph 8 - 8.5

Commonly found between the tropics

21
Q

Factors affecting the distribution of mangroves

A
  • Found in the intertidal zone
  • Between 30* latitude
22
Q

Value of coral reefs [4]

A
  • Biodiversity
  • Protect low lying coasts from storms
  • Rich fish stocks
  • Appeal to tourists, recreational
23
Q

Threats to coral reefs [4]

A
  • Pollution of water: lack of sunlight
  • Increasing temperatures: Coral Bleeching
  • Tourism, human interaction kills them, delicate
  • Increased fishing, leads to imbalance
24
Q

Value of mangroves [4]

A
  • Fish and shelfish
  • Mangrove roots create more land
  • Protection from storm surges
  • Provides timber fuel and building material
25
Q

Management of a mangrove
Sundarbans, Bangladesh [4]

A
  • Low lying country, vulnerable to tropical storms
  • Create land
  • Protect from coastal flooding
  • Contribute to economy by providing materials
26
Q

Conflict between conservation and development

A
27
Q

Stakeholders

A
  • Local residents
  • Employers
  • Farmers
  • Fisherfolk
  • Port authorities
  • Transport companies
  • Tourists
  • Developers
28
Q

Causes of Sea level rise

A
  • Melting of glaciers
  • Thermal expansion
29
Q

Reducing the risk of coastal flooding: Prediction

A
  • Looking at historic records to identify high risk areas
  • Relying on accurate forecasting
30
Q

Reducing the risk of coastal flooding: Prevention [6]

A
  • Flood defences
  • Emergency centres
  • Removing infrastructure from high risk areas
  • Planning new development with features
  • Installing warning systems
  • Educating local people
31
Q

Hard engineering methods examples [5]

A
  • Groyne: Prevent LSD
  • Gabion: Small rocks in a cage
  • Beach wall: Reflect energy
  • Rip rap: big rocks
  • Wooden revetment: absorb energy, allow buildup of sediment
32
Q

Hard engineering strategies pros and cons

A
  • Expensive to build and maintain
  • Effective defence
  • Cannot keep up with rising sea levels
  • Can spoil the natural beauty of the coastline
33
Q

Sof Engineering methods [4]

A
  • Beach replenishment
  • Building Bars: underwater bars to reduce energy
  • Vegetation
  • Cliff regrading: making less steep
34
Q

Managed retreat

A
  • Allow ares to flood, forming salt marshes and create a new coastal defence
  • Relatively cheap, compensation needs to be apid
35
Q

Coastal management Case study: Sri Lanka

A
  • Pollution
  • Human activity threatening coastal ecosystems
  • Serious coastal erosion in south west, population and economy are concentrated
  • Prone to tsunamis and storm surges: 2004-05 Tsunami killed 30,000
    ______._______
  • Introduced CZMP, coastal amazement plan
  • Promote economic development
  • Improve quality of the coastal environment
    ______._______
  • Promoting awareness on hazards, education, early warning etc
36
Q

Case Study: Coastal management in the UK [2]

A
  • Divided into 10 zones
  • Do nothing, Hold the line, Managed retreat