performance and characteristics of materials Flashcards
staple vs filament fibre
staple is short (usually natural fibres)
filament is long fibre (manufactured fibres)
fibre properties - absorbency
- it can affect the comfort of a garment like jeans in wet conditions
- affects the care of fabrics as very absorbing fibres take long to dry (bad convenience)
fibre properties - strength
it’s ability to resist breaking
highly orientated - all molecules share the load when under tension e.g cellulosic fibres
fibre properties - elasticity
how much a fibre will stretch or extend before breaking
in highly oriented fibres the molecules have no space to move, less oriented fibres have more space to move. however if these fibres are stretched excessively the cross links with break.
when there’s a mix of high oriented and less then there’s a good stretchy fibre/fabric
fibre properties - flammability
cellulosic fibres like cotton catch fire easily but synthetic fibres are difficult to set alight but melt and drip
fibre properties - thermal qualities
the ability to trap air is good for choosing an insulating fabric for warmer clothing. for fabrics like cotton/linen are not able to trap but the crimp in wool and other hair fibres gives them good thermal properties
fibre properties - lustre
ability for a fabric to reflect light so that it appears shiny. in order for it to be shiny the fabric should have a smooth surface e.g silk.
fibre properties - handle
how it feels when touched or stroked.
the sensations add to the aesthetics of the product. different products will have different requirements
different fibres and their specific performance characteristics
when choosing a fibre for a particular application, you need to be aware of the requirements of the product and match them to the qualities of one or more fibres
PLAIN WEAVES
simplest weaves + cheapest to produce
PLAIN WEAVE EXAMPLES
- canvas firm and stiff fabric which is used as an alternative to denim.
- chiffon lightweight and sheer
TWILL WEAVE
produce diagonal lines on the cloth. when weft yarns floats over two or more warm yarns at irregular intervals
HARDEST TO WEAVE and expensive
E.G denim - usually made with cotton but added elastane for stretch comfort
- TARTAN: used with multiple colours to give it the check pattern and represented scottish clans
SATIN WEAVES
weft yarns are hidden by warp yarns. fray easily because threads don’t interlace often. have a right side (shiny) and wrong.
e.g satin, front is smooth and shiny, back is dull
three yarn system weaves
have a third yarn woven in with the warp and weft. this makes loops which stand up from the body of the fabric
e.g velvet
special woven effects
by using different coloured yarns in the warp and weft it is possible to create a checked or striped pattern in the fabric
e.g gingham (plain weave)
weaving
interlacing two sets of threads at the right - angles to each other to make a fabric