Midterm 11/27 Flashcards
Hair colorant changes the hair in what 2 ways?
Temporarily: by adding color pigment that shampoos out
Permanently: either by adding or removing color pigment
What is color?
Color is the visual perception of the reflection of light
Without light there would be no..?
Color!
Each color is a group of electro magnetic waves called…?
Wavelengths
Wavelengths
Create color and are known as visible light
Law of color
States that only yellow, red and blue, called primary colors are “pure” colors
Primary colors
Create all the other colors, cannot be created by mixing colors
Secondary colors
When 2 primary colors are mixed in varying proportions, they produce the 3 secondary colors. Orange, green and violet
Tertiary color
Mixing a primary color with its neighboring secondary color in varying proportions creates tertiary colors, yellow-orange, red-orange, red -violet, blue-violet, blue-green, yellow-green
Color wheel
12-hue color circle that is created from 3 primer, 3 secondary and 6 tertiary colors, positioned in a circle
Tone of hair color?
Warm, cool, or neutral
Warm color tones
Generally fall into the yellow, orange or red half of the color wheel
Cool color tones
Generally fall into the green, blue and violet half of the color wheel
Complementary colors
Colors found opposite one another on the color wheel
Neutral colors
Colors that do not exhibit warm or cool tones
Characteristics of color
Hue
Value
Intensity
Hues
Hues are names and abbreviated based on their position on the color wheel
Level/value
The degree of lightness or darkness of a color, relative to itself and to other colors
Level system
A numbering system that identifies the lightness or darkness of hair colors in smaller specific increments
Numbered levels
Darkest hair colors are level 1
Lightest hair colors are level 10
Some manufacturers use a 1-12 level system that operates the same way
Intensity
Refers to the vividness, brightness or saturation of a color within its own level
Color design transformation
-visually change or enhance the form of a design
- visually change or enhance the texture of a design
- create a focal point while leading the eye through a design
Effects of color on form
An all over application of a darker color draws attention to the overall form of a design
Color design analysis
Color designing is part of a total composition, which also includes the other design elements of form and texture.
Designing color includes identifying:
-existing and desired color
- patterns, shapes and techniques that will be used
Three levels of observation
Basic, detail, abstract
Basic
Identify lightness/darkness and color patterns; visualize first in black and white
Detail
Identify remaining color characteristics, such as color family, warmth or coolness, intensity
Abstract
Imagine color placement, shapes and patterns for application
Sculpted form
Serves as an inspiration for color placement and patterns. Colors can be used to emphasize or de-emphasize the classic shape and texture of a haircut
Existing/ desired level
Dark colors visually recede and emphasize shape and shine
Lighter colors create the illusion of more volume
Color placement
Zones or zonal patterns subdivide head into multiple areas
Creates a color design with a combination of colors
Depending on the desired effect, some zones may be left natural
Examples of areas that can be colored in zones are:
Fringe
Top
Crown
Nape
Perimeter
Artistic arrangement patterns for the design elements of:
Form
Texture
Color
Melanin
Pigment that gives hair its natural color is known as melanin and is determined through genetic coding
3 layers of hair
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Eumelanin
A dense concentration will produce very dark hair; a small concentration will produce light hair
Pheomelanin
A dense concentration will produce red hair
Gray hair
Gray hair is the result of: Melanocyte cells slowing down the production of melanin in the hair strand leading to the gradual and eventually complete loss of colorof
A mixture of non-pigmented hair and pigmented hair on the same head
25% gray
More pigmented hair and less non-pigmented hair
50% gray
Even mixture of pigmented and non-pigmented hair
75% gray
Hair will appear lighter overall
Identifying artificial hair color
When a client has had a prior fair color service, you will need to identify the existing artificial color in addition to the natural level and tone
5 fields of color
-dark
-medium dark
- medium
-medium light
-light
Texture
The degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber
Coarse hair
-Resistant to lightening
- may appear to process slightly lighter than intended level when depositing color
Medium hair
Has an average response to color products
Fine hair
Generally less resistant
May appear to process darker when color is deposited
When lightening or removing pigment, a mild lightener is recommended
Resistant porosity
Cuticles are smooth, tightly packed and compact; color absorption may take longer or you may need to apply additional pigment
Average porosity
Cuticle is slightly raised, accepts color products easily
Extreme porosity
Cuticle is lifting or missing; hair may take color intensely or not be able to hold color, causing it to fade quickly
Porosity
The ability of hair to absorb moisture, liquid or chemicals
Factors that affect porosity
-sun exposure
- alkaline shampoos
- chemical products
- hair colors
- perms
- relaxers
- heat from hair dryers and curling irons
To determine porosity
- Select a small portion of hair
- Hold the ends and slide your thumb and forefinger along the strand toward the scalp
- The more rough the hair feels and the easier the hair back combs, the greater the porosity
Nonoxidative color products
Ideal for clients looking to change their existing hair color without commitment
Produce very subtle changes and color enhancements
Keep hair color fresh and vivid between salon visits
Nonoxidative color products
-darken, impact shine, add new tones and neutralize unwanted tones
-add pigment but don’t lighten existing hair color
- are not mixed with a developer or oxidant
- used directly out of the bottle or container
Nonoxidative color products
- create a physical but not chemical change
- deposit color that shampoo out
- temporary and semi
Temporary colors
Weekly rinses
Color mousses and gels
Color Chalks, crayons and mascaras
Pomades
Spray on colors
Color enhancing shampoos
Weekly rinses
Generally applied at the shampoo bowl
Used to add tone to fitted hair.
Neutralize unwanted tones.
Temporarily add color to hair without creating a chemical change
Color mousses and gels
Come in a variety of colors.
Brighten existing color.
Tone, gray hair.
Create dramatic effects.
Help in the styling process
Color chalks, crayons and mascara
Come in a variety of colors
Used for a number effects, wrenching from blending new growth to creating fun, colorful designs
Pomades
Come in a variety of colors.
Add Shein, tone or create special color effects on their hair
Spray on colors
Come in an aerosol can and a variety of colors.
Quick and easy way to add color and create special effects
Color enhancing shampoo and conditioner
Maintaining existing color after a color service.
Add tones to hair.
Eliminate unwanted tones
Semi permanent color
Add tone or deepen existing color next line refresh faded hair color.
Neutralize unwanted tones.
Cover small percentages of gray or blend higher percentages of gray.
Have a longer lasting effect when applied with heat to pourous hair
Semi permanent color
Deposit color but cannot lighten hair.
Last several shampoos, but generally wash out.
Will leave no line of demarcation.
Retouch is not required.
Consist of dye molecules in a solution.
Slightly alkaline in pH
Vegetable dyes
Utilize natural products to color the hair mixed with metallic salts, such as leads, silver and copper
Henna
Most common vegetable dye
In purest form, provides reddish highlights in hair
One of the oldest forms of hair coloring
Derived from Egyptian privet plant
Penetrate the cortex after a few applications and builds up, causing color to become permanent
Metallic dyes
Progressive or gradual dies.
Not considered a professional product.
Do not mix successfully with other chemicals used on services.
Kim causes discoloration and breakage.
Advisable to cut hair to remove unwanted metal metallic die.
May fade into peculiar or an unnatural shades when exposed to sun and chlorine
Silver die may appear to have a green cast.
Lead die may appear to have a purple cast.
Copper die may appear to have a red cast
Compound dyes
Combination of metallic and vegetable diets
Metallic salt added to vegetable ties.
Create water range of colors.
Longer lasting color.
Unpredictable.
Incompatible with other chemical services and salon
Test for metallic salts
Perform a 1 to 20 test prior to performing a chemical service.
Put 1 ounce of 20 volume developer and 20 drops of 28% ammonia in a glass bowl.
Remove at least 20 strains of hair and immerse in mixture for 30 minutes.
Look for any of these possible results:
Hair, strength, light and slightly, no metallic salts present proceed with service.
Hair, lightens quickly, hair contains lead do not perform a chemical service.
No reaction after 30 minutes, hair contained silver do not perform a chemical service.
Solution against a boil, gives off an unpleasant odor, hair, degrades, and pulls apart easily, hair contains copper do not perform a chemical service
Oxidative color products
- mixed with an oxidant to create a chemical change
- this change has a longer lasting effect than semi-permanent colors
- oxidative colors deposit color or lift and deposit color in a single process technique
Oxidative colors without ammonia
Known as long-lasting semi permanent which is also more commonly referred to as Demi- permanent hair color
Designed to add tone or darken existing hair color
Oxidative color products
Mixed with oxygen to create a chemical change.
This change has a longer lasting effect than semi permanent colors.
Oxidative colors, color, or light and deposit color in a single process technique
Oxidative colors without ammonia
Known as long, lasting, semi permanent, which is also more commonly referred to as a Demi permanent hair color.
Designed to add tone or darken existing hair color
Oxidative colors with ammonia
No one’s permanent hair color.
Designed to add tone, darken the existing level to achieve a darker result, lighten, and add tone to natural hair to achieve a lighter result in a single process
Oxidative colors
Darker oxidative colors contain more pigment, lighter colors contain less pigment, but have greater lifting ability
What can be used to lighten or breakdown and remove artificial pigments?
Color removers, and die solvents
Demi permanent colors?
Use low volume of hydrogen peroxide.
Can only deposit color, add tone to the hair.
Cannot lift existing hair color.
Generally last 4 to 6 weeks.
Contain very little or no ammonia
Permanent colors
Mixed with hydrogen peroxide, developers, capable of both lightning, natural pigment and depositing artificial pigment in a single process.
Combination of the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide allows, lifting, and lightning of the hairs natural color
Liquid color
Thinner than creams and gels.
Generally applied with applicator bottle.
May contain fewer conditioning agents in greater ammonia.
Good penetration ability
Cream color
Generally mixed with cream developer.
Applied with a bowl and brush technique.
Half conditioners and thickening agents
Cream color
Generally mixed with cream developer.
Applied with a bowl and brush technique.
Half conditioners and thickening agents
Cream color
Generally mixed with cream developer.
Applied with a bowl and brush technique.
Half conditioners and thickening agents
Gel color
Consistency is somewhere between a liquid and a cream.
More penetrating than creams.
Fewer conditioning agents
Developer
Developers come in a variety of strengths (volumes or percentages) and consistencies( liquid or cream)
Lower strength, developers are used for depositing, and higher strengths are used for greater lift.
Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used developer in hair color products
40 Val Yume developer
12%
30 volume developer
9%
20 volume developer
6%
10 volume/3% peroxide or less
-Used for a deposit and minimal lift.
-Used for Demi permanent colors
-Most semi permanent manufacturers have their own recommended developer of low strength peroxide
What is a patch test?
A patch test is where you apply product to the behind of the right ear, leave the product to 24 to 48 hours and see if there’s any reaction
What products require a patch test?
Any products that will chemically change the hair
What is the pH of lighteners?
8.5-10.5
What is a filler?
Provide an even base color by filling in porous, damaged or abused areas.
Equal porosity of hair.
Deposit a base color in one application.
Coming in a variety of colors
No
Conditioning filler
Used to recondition damaged hair prior to color service, color is applied directly over the filler and process simultaneously
Color filler
Used on damaged hair such as porous hair and when there is a question about whether the color will hold
What is a double process?
A two step process:
Decolorizing, or lightning hair to desire degree
Re-colorizing or toning hair by applying oxidative or nonoxidative color to create final color result
What are cotton rolls used for?
Protects client eyes from product drips when positioned around hairlines, used at base in between parting to avoid product seepage during lighter applications, used to perform patch tests
Foils of a different color
If you see a different color foil on a client’s head during a highlight or low light service, it often signals that multiple color, products, or formulas, our position within the color design. Color identify where they placed different products by choosing a different color of foil for each formula. This allows them to quickly see the placement pattern as it develops and remind them which color formula to apply next.
What is a protective apron used for?
An apron is used to protect the licensees clothes from Lightner or chemical products
When were the first perms invented?
1905
What was the crocodile method of wrapping?
1926, accommodated shorter hair after World War I, also known as the overlap method, the way to the use of clamps that were preheated on separate electrical unit, then placed over the hair
PH of acid perms
6.9 to 7.2
