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Cosmetology 111 & 112 > Midterm 11/27 > Flashcards

Midterm 11/27 Flashcards

1
Q

Hair colorant changes the hair in what 2 ways?

A

Temporarily: by adding color pigment that shampoos out

Permanently: either by adding or removing color pigment

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2
Q

What is color?

A

Color is the visual perception of the reflection of light

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3
Q

Without light there would be no..?

A

Color!

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4
Q

Each color is a group of electro magnetic waves called…?

A

Wavelengths

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5
Q

Wavelengths

A

Create color and are known as visible light

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6
Q

Law of color

A

States that only yellow, red and blue, called primary colors are “pure” colors

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7
Q

Primary colors

A

Create all the other colors, cannot be created by mixing colors

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8
Q

Secondary colors

A

When 2 primary colors are mixed in varying proportions, they produce the 3 secondary colors. Orange, green and violet

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9
Q

Tertiary color

A

Mixing a primary color with its neighboring secondary color in varying proportions creates tertiary colors, yellow-orange, red-orange, red -violet, blue-violet, blue-green, yellow-green

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10
Q

Color wheel

A

12-hue color circle that is created from 3 primer, 3 secondary and 6 tertiary colors, positioned in a circle

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11
Q

Tone of hair color?

A

Warm, cool, or neutral

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12
Q

Warm color tones

A

Generally fall into the yellow, orange or red half of the color wheel

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13
Q

Cool color tones

A

Generally fall into the green, blue and violet half of the color wheel

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14
Q

Complementary colors

A

Colors found opposite one another on the color wheel

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15
Q

Neutral colors

A

Colors that do not exhibit warm or cool tones

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16
Q

Characteristics of color

A

Hue
Value
Intensity

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17
Q

Hues

A

Hues are names and abbreviated based on their position on the color wheel

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18
Q

Level/value

A

The degree of lightness or darkness of a color, relative to itself and to other colors

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19
Q

Level system

A

A numbering system that identifies the lightness or darkness of hair colors in smaller specific increments

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20
Q

Numbered levels

A

Darkest hair colors are level 1
Lightest hair colors are level 10
Some manufacturers use a 1-12 level system that operates the same way

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21
Q

Intensity

A

Refers to the vividness, brightness or saturation of a color within its own level

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22
Q

Color design transformation

A

-visually change or enhance the form of a design
- visually change or enhance the texture of a design
- create a focal point while leading the eye through a design

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23
Q

Effects of color on form

A

An all over application of a darker color draws attention to the overall form of a design

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24
Q

Color design analysis

A

Color designing is part of a total composition, which also includes the other design elements of form and texture.

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25
Q

Designing color includes identifying:

A

-existing and desired color
- patterns, shapes and techniques that will be used

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26
Q

Three levels of observation

A

Basic, detail, abstract

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27
Q

Basic

A

Identify lightness/darkness and color patterns; visualize first in black and white

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28
Q

Detail

A

Identify remaining color characteristics, such as color family, warmth or coolness, intensity

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29
Q

Abstract

A

Imagine color placement, shapes and patterns for application

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30
Q

Sculpted form

A

Serves as an inspiration for color placement and patterns. Colors can be used to emphasize or de-emphasize the classic shape and texture of a haircut

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31
Q

Existing/ desired level

A

Dark colors visually recede and emphasize shape and shine

Lighter colors create the illusion of more volume

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32
Q

Color placement

A

Zones or zonal patterns subdivide head into multiple areas

Creates a color design with a combination of colors

Depending on the desired effect, some zones may be left natural

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33
Q

Examples of areas that can be colored in zones are:

A

Fringe
Top
Crown
Nape
Perimeter

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34
Q

Artistic arrangement patterns for the design elements of:

A

Form
Texture
Color

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35
Q

Melanin

A

Pigment that gives hair its natural color is known as melanin and is determined through genetic coding

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36
Q

3 layers of hair

A

Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla

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37
Q

Eumelanin

A

A dense concentration will produce very dark hair; a small concentration will produce light hair

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38
Q

Pheomelanin

A

A dense concentration will produce red hair

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39
Q

Gray hair

A

Gray hair is the result of: Melanocyte cells slowing down the production of melanin in the hair strand leading to the gradual and eventually complete loss of colorof

A mixture of non-pigmented hair and pigmented hair on the same head

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40
Q

25% gray

A

More pigmented hair and less non-pigmented hair

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41
Q

50% gray

A

Even mixture of pigmented and non-pigmented hair

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42
Q

75% gray

A

Hair will appear lighter overall

43
Q

Identifying artificial hair color

A

When a client has had a prior fair color service, you will need to identify the existing artificial color in addition to the natural level and tone

44
Q

5 fields of color

A

-dark
-medium dark
- medium
-medium light
-light

45
Q

Texture

A

The degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber

46
Q

Coarse hair

A

-Resistant to lightening
- may appear to process slightly lighter than intended level when depositing color

47
Q

Medium hair

A

Has an average response to color products

48
Q

Fine hair

A

Generally less resistant
May appear to process darker when color is deposited
When lightening or removing pigment, a mild lightener is recommended

49
Q

Resistant porosity

A

Cuticles are smooth, tightly packed and compact; color absorption may take longer or you may need to apply additional pigment

50
Q

Average porosity

A

Cuticle is slightly raised, accepts color products easily

51
Q

Extreme porosity

A

Cuticle is lifting or missing; hair may take color intensely or not be able to hold color, causing it to fade quickly

52
Q

Porosity

A

The ability of hair to absorb moisture, liquid or chemicals

53
Q

Factors that affect porosity

A

-sun exposure
- alkaline shampoos
- chemical products
- hair colors
- perms
- relaxers
- heat from hair dryers and curling irons

54
Q

To determine porosity

A
  1. Select a small portion of hair
  2. Hold the ends and slide your thumb and forefinger along the strand toward the scalp
  3. The more rough the hair feels and the easier the hair back combs, the greater the porosity
55
Q

Nonoxidative color products

A

Ideal for clients looking to change their existing hair color without commitment

Produce very subtle changes and color enhancements

Keep hair color fresh and vivid between salon visits

56
Q

Nonoxidative color products

A

-darken, impact shine, add new tones and neutralize unwanted tones
-add pigment but don’t lighten existing hair color
- are not mixed with a developer or oxidant
- used directly out of the bottle or container

57
Q

Nonoxidative color products

A
  • create a physical but not chemical change
  • deposit color that shampoo out
  • temporary and semi
58
Q

Temporary colors

A

Weekly rinses
Color mousses and gels
Color Chalks, crayons and mascaras
Pomades
Spray on colors
Color enhancing shampoos

59
Q

Weekly rinses

A

Generally applied at the shampoo bowl
Used to add tone to fitted hair.
Neutralize unwanted tones.
Temporarily add color to hair without creating a chemical change

60
Q

Color mousses and gels

A

Come in a variety of colors.
Brighten existing color.
Tone, gray hair.
Create dramatic effects.
Help in the styling process

61
Q

Color chalks, crayons and mascara

A

Come in a variety of colors
Used for a number effects, wrenching from blending new growth to creating fun, colorful designs

62
Q

Pomades

A

Come in a variety of colors.
Add Shein, tone or create special color effects on their hair

63
Q

Spray on colors

A

Come in an aerosol can and a variety of colors.
Quick and easy way to add color and create special effects

64
Q

Color enhancing shampoo and conditioner

A

Maintaining existing color after a color service.
Add tones to hair.
Eliminate unwanted tones

65
Q

Semi permanent color

A

Add tone or deepen existing color next line refresh faded hair color.
Neutralize unwanted tones.
Cover small percentages of gray or blend higher percentages of gray.
Have a longer lasting effect when applied with heat to pourous hair

66
Q

Semi permanent color

A

Deposit color but cannot lighten hair.
Last several shampoos, but generally wash out.
Will leave no line of demarcation.
Retouch is not required.
Consist of dye molecules in a solution.
Slightly alkaline in pH

67
Q

Vegetable dyes

A

Utilize natural products to color the hair mixed with metallic salts, such as leads, silver and copper

68
Q

Henna

A

Most common vegetable dye
In purest form, provides reddish highlights in hair
One of the oldest forms of hair coloring
Derived from Egyptian privet plant
Penetrate the cortex after a few applications and builds up, causing color to become permanent

69
Q

Metallic dyes

A

Progressive or gradual dies.
Not considered a professional product.
Do not mix successfully with other chemicals used on services.
Kim causes discoloration and breakage.
Advisable to cut hair to remove unwanted metal metallic die.
May fade into peculiar or an unnatural shades when exposed to sun and chlorine
Silver die may appear to have a green cast.
Lead die may appear to have a purple cast.
Copper die may appear to have a red cast

70
Q

Compound dyes

A

Combination of metallic and vegetable diets
Metallic salt added to vegetable ties.
Create water range of colors.
Longer lasting color.
Unpredictable.
Incompatible with other chemical services and salon

71
Q

Test for metallic salts

A

Perform a 1 to 20 test prior to performing a chemical service.
Put 1 ounce of 20 volume developer and 20 drops of 28% ammonia in a glass bowl.
Remove at least 20 strains of hair and immerse in mixture for 30 minutes.
Look for any of these possible results:
Hair, strength, light and slightly, no metallic salts present proceed with service.
Hair, lightens quickly, hair contains lead do not perform a chemical service.
No reaction after 30 minutes, hair contained silver do not perform a chemical service.
Solution against a boil, gives off an unpleasant odor, hair, degrades, and pulls apart easily, hair contains copper do not perform a chemical service

72
Q

Oxidative color products

A
  • mixed with an oxidant to create a chemical change
  • this change has a longer lasting effect than semi-permanent colors
  • oxidative colors deposit color or lift and deposit color in a single process technique
73
Q

Oxidative colors without ammonia

A

Known as long-lasting semi permanent which is also more commonly referred to as Demi- permanent hair color

Designed to add tone or darken existing hair color

74
Q

Oxidative color products

A

Mixed with oxygen to create a chemical change.
This change has a longer lasting effect than semi permanent colors.
Oxidative colors, color, or light and deposit color in a single process technique

75
Q

Oxidative colors without ammonia

A

Known as long, lasting, semi permanent, which is also more commonly referred to as a Demi permanent hair color.
Designed to add tone or darken existing hair color

76
Q

Oxidative colors with ammonia

A

No one’s permanent hair color.
Designed to add tone, darken the existing level to achieve a darker result, lighten, and add tone to natural hair to achieve a lighter result in a single process

77
Q

Oxidative colors

A

Darker oxidative colors contain more pigment, lighter colors contain less pigment, but have greater lifting ability

78
Q

What can be used to lighten or breakdown and remove artificial pigments?

A

Color removers, and die solvents

79
Q

Demi permanent colors?

A

Use low volume of hydrogen peroxide.
Can only deposit color, add tone to the hair.
Cannot lift existing hair color.
Generally last 4 to 6 weeks.
Contain very little or no ammonia

80
Q

Permanent colors

A

Mixed with hydrogen peroxide, developers, capable of both lightning, natural pigment and depositing artificial pigment in a single process.
Combination of the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide allows, lifting, and lightning of the hairs natural color

81
Q

Liquid color

A

Thinner than creams and gels.
Generally applied with applicator bottle.
May contain fewer conditioning agents in greater ammonia.
Good penetration ability

82
Q

Cream color

A

Generally mixed with cream developer.
Applied with a bowl and brush technique.
Half conditioners and thickening agents

83
Q

Cream color

A

Generally mixed with cream developer.
Applied with a bowl and brush technique.
Half conditioners and thickening agents

84
Q

Cream color

A

Generally mixed with cream developer.
Applied with a bowl and brush technique.
Half conditioners and thickening agents

85
Q

Gel color

A

Consistency is somewhere between a liquid and a cream.
More penetrating than creams.
Fewer conditioning agents

86
Q

Developer

A

Developers come in a variety of strengths (volumes or percentages) and consistencies( liquid or cream)
Lower strength, developers are used for depositing, and higher strengths are used for greater lift.
Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used developer in hair color products

87
Q

40 Val Yume developer

A

12%

88
Q

30 volume developer

A

9%

89
Q

20 volume developer

A

6%

90
Q

10 volume/3% peroxide or less

A

-Used for a deposit and minimal lift.
-Used for Demi permanent colors
-Most semi permanent manufacturers have their own recommended developer of low strength peroxide

91
Q

What is a patch test?

A

A patch test is where you apply product to the behind of the right ear, leave the product to 24 to 48 hours and see if there’s any reaction

92
Q

What products require a patch test?

A

Any products that will chemically change the hair

93
Q

What is the pH of lighteners?

A

8.5-10.5

94
Q

What is a filler?

A

Provide an even base color by filling in porous, damaged or abused areas.
Equal porosity of hair.
Deposit a base color in one application.
Coming in a variety of colors
No

95
Q

Conditioning filler

A

Used to recondition damaged hair prior to color service, color is applied directly over the filler and process simultaneously

96
Q

Color filler

A

Used on damaged hair such as porous hair and when there is a question about whether the color will hold

97
Q

What is a double process?

A

A two step process:
Decolorizing, or lightning hair to desire degree
Re-colorizing or toning hair by applying oxidative or nonoxidative color to create final color result

98
Q

What are cotton rolls used for?

A

Protects client eyes from product drips when positioned around hairlines, used at base in between parting to avoid product seepage during lighter applications, used to perform patch tests

99
Q

Foils of a different color

A

If you see a different color foil on a client’s head during a highlight or low light service, it often signals that multiple color, products, or formulas, our position within the color design. Color identify where they placed different products by choosing a different color of foil for each formula. This allows them to quickly see the placement pattern as it develops and remind them which color formula to apply next.

100
Q

What is a protective apron used for?

A

An apron is used to protect the licensees clothes from Lightner or chemical products

101
Q

When were the first perms invented?

A

1905

102
Q

What was the crocodile method of wrapping?

A

1926, accommodated shorter hair after World War I, also known as the overlap method, the way to the use of clamps that were preheated on separate electrical unit, then placed over the hair

103
Q

PH of acid perms

A

6.9 to 7.2

Cosmetology 111 & 112 (5 decks)

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