MATERIALS FOR DECORATION Flashcards
FMR
a common finish process for linen. the fabric is hammered, the yarns are flattened
BEETLING (PINUKPOK)
process makes the fabric white and impurities are removed
BLEACHING
a finishing process which makes the frabrics smooth and glossy. This is done by passing the fabric between heavily heated steel rollers at a pressure up to 2000 pounds per sqr inch.
CALENDERING
a wool finishing process to prevent creases of other forms of uneven shrinkage in latter stages of finishings
CRABBING
the finishing process improves the appearance, enhances luster and hand of material
DECATING or DECATIZING
decating tyle which usually done on cotton, rayon or silk the cloth is wound on a perforated drum
DRY DECATING PROCESS
decating style which the cloth is wound on a roller and treated in a hot water or steam boiler
WET DECATING PROCESS
Important finish applied to wool fabrics. It is pre-shrinking process which involves the application of moisture, heat, friction, anc pressure.
FULLING
discovered by John Mercer, an English scientist and chemist from whom the term was derived. It is common finishing process for cotton. Fabrics increase its strength, reduce shrinkage and give it greater absorbency for dyes.
MERCERIZING
The finishing process is applied to fabrics for the purpose of removing the fuzz of protruding fibers.
SINGEING OR GASSING
These are other terms for starching. The cloth is filled with starch to increase strength, smoothness, stiffness, or weight of the fabric
SIZING OR DRESSING
this process straightness and restores the cloth to its proper dimensions.
TENTERING, STENTERING OR HEAT-SETTING
process done to fabrics, sometimes to fibers and yarns, causing them to change in appearance, texture and performance.
FINISH
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
- Based on the extent to which they will stay on the fabrics, such as durable, temporary or permanent
a. Temporary Finish
b. Durable Finish
c. Permanent Finish - Based on whether it is a general or special finish
a. General Finish
b. Special Finishes
the kind of finish that lasts until the fabric is washed or dry-cleaned
Temporary Finish
this last longer than temporary but it may become unsatisfactory with the passing time
Durable Finish
lasts until the garment is of service
Permanent Finish
include those finishes that affect the texture and appearance of the cloth.
General Finish
Include those which affect the performance of the cloth
Special Finishes
SPECIAL FINISHES
- ANTISEPTIC FINISH
- ANTI-STATIC FINISH
- CREASE-RESISTANT FINISH
- FLAME RETARDANT FINISH
- GLAZED FINISH
- HEAT-REFLECTANT FINISH
- MILDEW-RESISTANT FINISH
- MOTH-RESISTANT FINISH
- NAPPING
- SHRINK-RESISTANT FINISH (Mechanical Method)
- SLIP-RESISTANT FINISH
- SOIL AND STAIN-RESISTANT FINISH
- WASH AND WEAR FINISH OR MINI-CARE FINISH
- WATER-REPPELANT FINISH
- WATERPROOF FINISH
one of the most important aspects in fabrics. In many cases, it is the primary reason for purchase.
COLOR
two kinds of colorants
- Dyes
- Pigments
soluble substances which penetrate into the fabric and are fixed by a chemical action, heat or other treatment
DYES
insoluble color particles which are held on the surface of a fabric by a binding agent
Pigment
This is a chemical treatment designed to make a fabric bacteria resistant.
Antiseptic Finish
This is a chemical treatment applied to synthetic fabrics to prevent the accumulation of static electricity.
Anti-static Finish
applied mostly on fabrics from such fibers as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon
CREASE-RESISTANT FINISH
they can be chemically treated to retard inflammability
FLAME RETARDANT FINISH
glazed surface may be obtained through chemical and mechanical means. Resin treated fabrics have greater durability than mechanically achieved glazed surfaces.
GLAZED FINISH
also called INSULATED FINISH. This type of finish makes a fabric suitable for either hot or cold weather.
HEAT-REFLECTANT FINISH
a chemical finish given mostly to rayon, cotton, and linen fabrics which are mostly susceptible to attack by mildew in moist and humid conditions or climates.
MILDEW-RESISTANT FINISH
sometimes referred to as moth-proofing finish. chemical finish resistant to attack by moths and carpet beetles.
MOTH-RESISTANT FINISH
to raise the fiber ends thus creating a surface fuzziness.
NAPPING
overfeeding a fabric onto a dyeing frame and applying stretch in the crosswise direction
SHRINK-RESISTANT FINISH (Mechanical Method)
given to loosely constructed fabrics or fabrics with low thread count. It prevents the warp yarns from slipping along the filling yarns.
SLIP-RESISTANT FINISH
given to rug and upholstery fabrics to repel soil and stain. Silicone is the compound used for this type of finish.
SOIL AND STAIN-RESISTANT FINISH
finish is also referred to as the drip-dry finish. same type as the crease-resistant finish.
WASH AND WEAR FINISH OR MINI-CARE FINISH
a chemical finish which makes a fabric resistant to wetting but not waterproof.
WATER-REPPELANT FINISH
waterproofing totally coats the fabric thus closing the pores and enabling it to shed water under all pressures.
WATERPROOF FINISH
CLASSIFICATION OF DYES
- ACID DYES
- BASIC DYES
- DIRECT OR SALT DYES
- DISPERSE DYES
- DEVELOPED DYES
- REACTIVE DYES
- SULPHUR DYES
- VAT DYES
BASIC METHODS OF DYEING FABRICS
- SOLUTION DYE
- FIBER DYE (OR STOCK DYE)
- YARN DYE
- PIECE DYE
- CROSS DYE
- SOLID
- UNION DYE
some of the man-made fibers may be dyed in solution before filament is formed.
SOLUTION DYE
the fibers are dyed before yarns are spun and woven into a fabric.
FIBER DYE (or STOCK DYE)
the yarns are dyed before they are woven into checks, plaids, striped or herringbone designs.
YARN DYE
cloth is dyed after fabrication. Also known as dip-dyeing
PIECE DYE
KINDS OF PIECE DYE
- JIg Dyeing
- Winch, Reel, or Beck Dyeing
- Pad Dyeing
the open fabric passes back and forth through a stationary dye bath
Jig Dyeing
the fabric is continuously immersed without strain to the fabric
Winch, Reel, or Beck Dyeing
the fabric is run through the dye bath and then between rollers which squeeze the dye deeper into the yarns of the fabric.
Pad Dyeing
Fabric of two or more fibers is placed in a dye bath containing two or more different dyes.
CROSS DYE
Fabric from one fiber is dyed one color
SOLID
This technique mixes dyes for fabrics made from two or more fibers so that the fibers will dye the same color.
UNION DYE
colored water-soluble organic compounds, mainly salts of sulphic acid.
ACID DYES
the oldest among the artificial dyes
Basic Dyes
dyes that color both protein and cellulosic fibers.
DIRECT OR SALT DYES
formerly called acetate dyes
Disperse Dyes
water-soluble organic dyes which have affinity for cellulose in an alkaline bath.
REACTIVE DYES
used for cotton and viscose rayon. has reaction of sulphur with organic compounds
SULPHUR DYES
the fastest dyes for cotton, linen, and viscose and cuprammonium rayon.
VAT Dyes
FABRIC DESIGN
- STRUCTURAL DESIGNS
- APPLIED DESIGNS
a. yarn type and arrangement
b. weaves, knits and variations
STRUCTURAL DESIGNS
applied designs classified into two
a. Printing
b. Applied Designs
done to add colors and design to the fabric surface
PRINTING
oldest method of printing design on fabrics, it consist of first carving the design on a wooden, rubber, or metal block.
BLOCK PRINTING
fabric printing, the design is cut on a cardboard, wood or metal
STENCIL PRINTING
type of printing, One of the fibers used is burned, leaving a lacy or shear-and-heavy design
BURN-OUT PRINTING
as term implies, the color is discharged or removed from the fabric, thus, creating a design
DISCHARGE OR EXTRACT PRINTING
machine counterpart of hand-block printing
ROLLER PRINTING
printing that appears on the face and back of the fabric
DUPLEX PRINTING
a resist paste (a resinous substance cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye bath)
RESIST PRINTING
this method is almost the same as developing a photograph
PHOTO PRINTING
the fabric passes between rollers which permit a caustic solution to contract certain areas of the fabric.
PLISSE PRINTING
The warp yarns are printed usually with use of rollers
WARP PRINTING
the design is first drawn on silk. nylon or metal screen
SCREEN PRINTING
printing is the process of transferring prints from pre-printed release papers to fabrics
TRANSFER PRINTING
APPLIED DESIGNS OTHER THAN PRINTING
a. Free-Hand Printing
b. Applique
c. Embossed Designs
d. Flocked Designs
e. Glued or Pasted Designs
f. Moire Design
The simplest method of fabric designing. The designs are put in the fabric by painting the color directly to the cloth with the use of a brush.
FREE-HAND PAINTING
This is applying one piece of fabric to another larger piece.
APPLIQUE
are raised designs found on the surface of the fabric.
EMBOSSED DESIGNS
tiny pieces of fiber, called flocks are made to stick to the fabric.
FLOCKED DESIGNS
are cut out designs held to the fabric surface by the use of glue or adhesive
GLUED OR PASTED DESIGNS
is often referred to as having a “water appearance”
MOIRE DESIGN
processed animal skin mostly that of cattle. It is expensive for several reasons: such processing is labor intensive, anilline dyes are costly, and there is a high rejection rate of the finished ideas.
LEATHER
KINDS OF HIDES
- CATTLE HIDE
- CALFSKIN
(OLD CATTLE) the skin of a fully grown cow. from 4.6 sqm to 5.5 sqm (50 sq ft to 60 sq ft) The center portion of the hide called BLEND “THE BEST QUALITY HIDE”
CATTLE HIDE
the hide of young animal and is considerably smaller, characterized by its softness, suppleness and fine grain
CALFSKIN
CATEGORIES OF LEATHER
- FULL-GRAIN LEATHER
- TOP-GRAIN LEATHER
- CORRECTED-GRAIN LEATHER
- SPLIT LEATHERS
OTHER KINDS OF LEATHER
a. Buckskin or brained leather
b. Patent Leather
c. Shegreen
d. Slink
not “true” Leathers but they contain leather material
a. Bonded leather
b. Bycast Leather
sometimes called full-top-grain leather it possess the genuine original grain of the hide
FULL-GRAIN LEATHER
this is the second-highest quality, where the “split” layer is separated away
TOP-GRAIN LEATHER
any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface
CORRECTED-GRAIN LEATHER
fibrous part of the hide that is left, once the top-grain has been separated
SPLIT LEATHERS
refers to the leather that has undergone a type of tanning process that uses animal brains.
BUCKSKIN OR BRAINED LEATHER
a type of a leather that has been given a high gloss finish.
PATENT LEATHER
also known as stingray skin/leather. Used in furniture production since the art deco periods
SHEGREEN
this is leather from the skin of unborn calves. - RARE, EXTENSIVE, SOFTEST LEATHER - Highly valued
SLINK
also known as “reconstituted leather” is composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers, bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of leather
BONDED LEATHER
a split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface
BYCAST LEATHER
STEPS IN TRANSFORMING A HIDE INTO LEATHER
- Tanning
- Finishing
used to preserve the hide. it makes the leather strong, supple. and enduring
TANNING
tanning solution is based on chromium salts
Mineral Tanning
Tree Bark typically oak and water form the basis of this tanning solution
Vegetable Tanning
This tanning method produces a hide that is quite supple, with a limited acceptance of dyesC
Combination Tanning
THREE PRIMARY TANNING AGENTS
- MINERAL TANNING,
- VEGETABLE TANNING
- COMBINATION TANNING
dyeing, embossing, and water or stain-proofing may be part of the finishing process.
FINISHING
TRANSLUSCENT, COMPRABLE TO WOODSTAINS, FOR PROTECTION
ANALINE DYES
SEMI-DYES WITH HAS COLORS
SEMI-ANILINE DYES