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MAR 270 > mar_270_20231116175412 > Flashcards

mar_270_20231116175412 Flashcards

1
Q

What is phytoplankton?

A

plants of the seaproduce 50% of Earth’s oxygen

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2
Q

What is zoo plankton?

A

Animal driftersEat phytoplanktonexport carbon to deep ocean

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3
Q

What is a boilogical pump

A

processes where inorganic carbon is fixed into organic matter via photosynthesis and then sequestered away from the atmosphere generally by transport into the deep ocean.

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4
Q

What is the Coroliseffect?

A

circulating air is deflected toward the right in the Northern Hemisphere and toward the left in the Southern Hemisphere.

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5
Q

What is an Elkman spiral?

A

When surface water molecules move by the force of the wind, they, in turn, drag deeper layers of water molecules below them.

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6
Q

What is primary production?

A

storage of energy through the formation of organic matter from inorganic compounds

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7
Q

What is Estuarine Circulation?

A

Residual flow pattern in an estuary induced by the density difference between seawater and river water

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8
Q

What are Diatoms?

A

Unicellular organisms of phytoplankton composed of silica

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9
Q

What is Elnino

A

During normal conditions in the Pacific ocean,trade windsblow west along the equator, taking warm water from South America towards Asia.

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10
Q

What is the Redfield ratio

A

the consistent atomic ratio of carbon, nitrogen and phosphorus found in marine phytoplankton and throughout the deep oceansconstant 106:16:1

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11
Q

What is the Universe?

A

All existing matter and space considered as a whole

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12
Q

What is matter?

A

any material that takes up space

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13
Q

What are the four types of matter?

A

solid, liquid, gas, plasma

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14
Q

What is the geologic time scale?

A

Used to refer to events from formation of Earth to present.

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15
Q

What are the 5 categories of eras?

A

EonsErasPeriodsEpochAges

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16
Q

Periods within the phanerozic era are often delineated by ____

A

mass extinction

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17
Q

What is latitudeWhat is latitude

A

lines parallel to the equator grid on Earth to form a refrence of location

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18
Q

What is longitude?

A

Lines perpendicular to the equator

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19
Q

How much is 1 degree

A

60 nautical miles

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20
Q

How much is 1minute

A

1 nautical mile

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21
Q

How much is 1 second

A

1/60 nautical miles

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22
Q

How did sailors measure latitude?

A

the elevation of polaris above the horizon

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23
Q

How many degrees are in 1 hour

A

15 degrees

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24
Q

How to calculate longitude/ position of the sun

A

If the sun is directly overhead at 12:00 Noon then a location 15° west would be at 11:00 AM.

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25
Q

What is 23 1/2 degrees south?

A

tropic of capricorn

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26
Q

wat us 23What is 23 1/2 N

A

Tropic of cancer

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27
Q

When is the summer/ winter solstices?

A

Jun 20/Dec 21

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28
Q

What are the 5 Ocean basins?

A

pacific:50.1Atlantic:23.3Indian:19.8Southern:5.4Arctic:1.4

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29
Q

What is a hypsographic curve?

A

graph of land elevation and ocean depth versus area.

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30
Q

What is Residence time?

A

the average length of time during which a substance, a portion of material, or an object is in a given location or condition, such as adsorption or suspension.

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31
Q

How much does water cover the ocean?

A

71%

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32
Q

Is water nonpolar or polar?

A

Polar

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33
Q

What is the equation for kinetic energy?

A

1/2 mass velocity

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34
Q

What is the water cycle?

A

as water is evaporated and precipitated, heat is being transfered to atmosphere which is a source of energy that powers weather systems

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35
Q

What is heat?

A

total amount of kinetic energy in a substance

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36
Q

What is a calorie?

A

amount of kinetic energy needed to raise the temperature of 1g of water by 1c

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37
Q

What is temperature?

A

the average amount of kinetic energy in the atoms and molecules in a substance.

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38
Q

What is specific heat?

A

ability of a substance to give up or take in heat to leading to temperature changes

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39
Q

How much does to take to make liquid to gas

A

+540 calories

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40
Q

How to make a solid to a liquid

A

+80 calories

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41
Q

How to get gas to liquid.

A

-540 calories

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42
Q

How to make liquid to solid

A

-80 calories

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43
Q

What is boiling point?

A

temperature when the saturated vapor pressure of a liquid is equal the atnospheric pressure

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44
Q

When can water remain at liquid stage?

A

Water can remain at liquid state >100°C if you change the pressure.

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45
Q

What are the properties of water?

A

Frozen water is less denseHigh heat capacity and heat of evaporationcohesion and adhesionwater interacts with heat,light, and sound energyIs the universal solvent

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46
Q

What are the ways water cen interact with energy

A

transmitted, reflected refracted, diffracted, absorbed, scatters

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47
Q

What is conduction?

A

Transfer of heat energy through matter by internal molecular motion

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48
Q

What is convection?

A

transfer through movement of a heated gas or liquid

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49
Q

What is radiation?

A

transmitted as electromagnetic maves without a substance to conduct the energy

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50
Q

What is verdical temperature distribution?

A

temperature of seawater decreases with depth. Roughly 75% of ocean has temp between 0- and 4° C.

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51
Q

How is light transmitted by water?

A

absorbtion,scattered,refracted,electromagnetic radiation

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52
Q

What is aborbtion when light is transmitted through water?

A

taking in of a substance by chemical or molecular means, change light or sound into another form of energy (usually heat).

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53
Q

What is scatter when light is transmitted through water?

A

random redirection of light or sound energy by reflection on uneven boundary.

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54
Q

What is refraction when light is transmitted through water?

A

change in direction of a light or sound wave due to a change in the substance it is moving through.

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55
Q

What is the electromagnetic radiation

A

waves of energy formed by electrical and magnetic oscillations that produce LIGHT.

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56
Q

What is attenuation?

A

decrease in the energy of a wave beam with an increase in distance from the surface

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57
Q

What is Beer’s law?

A

Iz = I0e-kz

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58
Q

What is the depth equation?

A

-ln(Iz/I0)/k

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59
Q

What is attenuation in open ocean water?

A

50% of the light is attenuated in the first 10m.

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60
Q

How much water is attenuated by 100m?

A

100%

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61
Q

How much light is attenuated in costal waters at 10m

A

96%

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62
Q

How much light is attenuated in costal waters at 15m

A

100%

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63
Q

What is attenuation dependent of?

A

wavelength of light

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64
Q

How is sound energy transmitted through water?

A

With ocean sounds, the energy is transmitted viawater molecules vibrating back and forth parallel to the direction of the sound wave, and passing on the energy to adjacent molecules.

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65
Q

What is the average velocity of sound in seawater?

A

1500 m/s(5000 ft/s)

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66
Q

What is the average velocity of sound in dry air at 20c?

A

334 m/s (1100 ft/s)

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67
Q

How do high frequency sounds interact with water?

A

They don’t penetrate far beneath the sea floor and are used simply to measure water depth.

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68
Q

How do low frequency sounds interact with the ocean?

A

They penetrate the seafloor sediments and reflect from boundaries between sediment layers.

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69
Q

What is a SOFAR channel?

A

natural sound channel in oceans in which sound can be transmitted for very long distances.

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70
Q

What is Salinity?

A

a measure of the quality of dissolved salts in seawater

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71
Q

What is PPT?

A

unit used by scientists to describe the salinity of the ocean

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72
Q

What is the average ocean salinity of the ocean

A

35 0/00

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73
Q

What are conservative constituents?

A

more than 1 ppt

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74
Q

What are non- conservative constituents?

A

concentrations less than 1 ppt (trace elements)

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75
Q

What are sources of salt?

A

river runoff

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76
Q

What is the regulation of salts?

A

the rate of addition of salts must be balamced by the removal of salts?

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77
Q

What are the sources of regulation?

A

sea spray,evaporation,chemical reactionsbiologiucal processesabsorbtion

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78
Q

What is residence time?

A

mean length of time that a substance remains in solution in the ocean

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79
Q

What is the equation of residence time?

A

total amount of iron in the ocean / rate of supply or removal

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80
Q

When is residence time shorter than in oceans?

A

in rivers

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81
Q

What is the principle of constant propositions?

A

ratios between the major constituent ions in seawater frmain constant regardless of total salinity

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82
Q

What is density?

A

mass per unit volume of a substance

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83
Q

What is density impacted by?

A

Pressure temperaturesalinity

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84
Q

What is the effect of pressure on density?

A

pressure increases 14.7 lbs inch-2 for every 33ft increase in depth (10m)

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85
Q

What is the effect of temperature on density?

A

water density is senstive to temperature changes

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86
Q

What is the effect of salt and density?

A

density increases with dissolved salts

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87
Q

What is the average density of seawater?

A

1.0278 g/cm3 at 4c

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88
Q

What is water water stratification?

A

layering of water that occurs due to changes in the chemical and physical conditions of water

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89
Q

What is the thermocline?

A

temperature gradient changes rapidly with depth

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90
Q

What is the halocine

A

salinity gradient changes with depth

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91
Q

When does the halocline stay stable?

A

below 2 km

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92
Q

What is the pyroclineWhat is the pyrocline

A

density gradient influenced by salinity temperature and pressure changes in depth

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93
Q

WhatWhat is stratification?

A

waters of different densities will create oceanic layers

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94
Q

What are Biogeochemical Cycles?

A

interactionsbetween organisms and their environments thatrecycle chemical elements or molecules.

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95
Q

What are 6 most import elements?

A

Caron, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, oxygen, Phosphorus, and sulfur

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96
Q

What are Biogeochemical cycles?

A

interactionsbetween organisms and their environments thatrecycle chemical elements or molecules.

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97
Q

What are macro molecules

A

Carbohydrates, lipids, protein, nucleic acids

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98
Q

What nitrogen from the nitrogen cycle can bacteria use?

A

Nitrogen gas

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99
Q

What is considered fixed nitrogen and can be used by other organisms?

A

Ammonia NH4Nitrites NO2-Nitrates NO3-

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100
Q

What does the redfield ratio measure?

A

Carbon: Silica: Nitrogen: Phosphorous106:40:16:1

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101
Q

What are Natural Sources of Nutrients in Estuaries?

A

watersedimentsriver runoff

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102
Q

What are Anthropogenic Sources of Nutrients in Estuaries?

A

urban runoffresidential runoffagriculture and livestock runoff

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103
Q

What controls the flow of nutrients through estuaries?

A

-Topographical and bathymetric features influence residence time and flushing rates-Freshwater inputs with high concentrations of nutrients are usually more important than tidal inputs-Heat input influences stratification and therefore biological processing-Exchanges across the benthic/water interface-Submarine groundwater discharge

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104
Q

What are global flows of carbon?

A

fossil fuelsatnospherelandepipelagicmesopelagic

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105
Q

What is atmosphere?

A

thin layer of homogeneous mixture of gases extending 90KM above Earth

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106
Q

What is the composition of air?

A

Nitrogen 78%Oxygen 21%Other 1%

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107
Q

What is density of air controlled by?

A

temperaturewater vaporaltitude

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108
Q

What is the relationship between air temperature and density?

A

Warm air is less dense than cold air

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109
Q

What is the relationship between air humidity and density?

A

Humid air is more dense that dry air

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110
Q

What is the relationship between air compression and density?

A

more compression means more dense

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111
Q

What is atmospheric pressure?

A

pressure at any given point on Earth exerted by the atmosphere as a consequence of gravatational force exerted on the colum of air directly above.

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112
Q

What is the average sea pressure?

A

1013.25 Milibars14.7 lbs. in

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113
Q

What are low pressure zones?

A

density of air is less than average

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114
Q

What happens to air in low pressure zones?

A

Air rises

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115
Q

What are high pressure zones?

A

density of air is more than average

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116
Q

What happens to air in high pressure zones?

A

Sinks

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117
Q

Why does air move?

A

less dense air risesmore dense air sinks to Earth

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118
Q

Which way does Earth Rotate?

A

West ot East

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119
Q

How does latitude impact speed of rotation?

A

As latitude decreases, roation speed increases

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120
Q

What is the coriolis effect?

A

Force acting on a body in motion due to the rotation of the Earth causing deflection.

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121
Q

How does the coriolis effect impact the hemispheres?

A

Earth Rotates to the **right **in the North hemisphereand Left in the Southern hemispere

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122
Q

What is deflection in relation to the coriolis effect?

A

amounts of deflected win is dependent on **speed **and location

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123
Q

Which winds deviate the most?

A

polar, and fast winds

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124
Q

Which wind deviates the least?

A

tropical, and slow winds

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125
Q

How are winds named?

A

By the direction they are moving

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126
Q

What are rising air areas?

A

Doldrums

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127
Q

What are high pressure areas?

A

horse latitudes

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128
Q

What is the ITCZ?

A

Intrtropical convergence zone

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129
Q

What happens at the ITCZ

A

area of rising air and high atmospheric pressure near equatorWhere wind systems of Northern and Southern Hemispheres converge

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130
Q

What happens to land and ocean in summer months?

A

land is warmer than the oceanlow pressures develop global high pressure belt

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131
Q

What happens to air in the summer?

A

moves away and deflects right.

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132
Q

What happens to land and ocean during winter months?

A

land is colder than the ocean.high pressure zones separate low pressure zones over water

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133
Q

How does air move during winter months

A

Pulls in and deflects right

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134
Q

How does air move when theres counterclockwise roation at low pressure?

A

Moves in and deflects right

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135
Q

What are modern scale circulations?

A

rising air over land replaced by warm moist airCarried on southwest winds from Indian oceanOffshore airflow causes condensation

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136
Q

What is rain shadow?

A

Mountains deflect wind upward:coolsriding on windward side of mountain; heavy precipitationDescending air on leeward side: low precipitation

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137
Q

What is an example of a small scale circulation pattern?

A

land sea breezes

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138
Q

What are hurricanes?

A

tropical cyclonic storm wind speeds of 73 mph

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139
Q

When do hurricanes occur?

A

tropical oceans when surface water temperature exceeds 28 celcius

140
Q

What is a storm surge?

A

elevation of sea surface beneath the center of a storm caused by low intense pressure

141
Q

What is a storm tide?

A

**max. sea surface elevation **when storm surge collides with high tide

142
Q

What is ENSO?

A

periods of climate conditions centered in tropical pacific oceans.

143
Q

What is the frequency of ENSO?

A

3-7 years

144
Q

How long does ENSO lasts?

A

lasts 1 year

145
Q

What does ENSO cause?

A

disruptions to normal atmosphere/ ocean interactions

146
Q

What is a typical system?

A

movement of water from East to West.deep water upwells to replace it keeping oceans cool along coast of South America

147
Q

What is Southern Oscillation?

A

periodic reversal of low and high pressure areas in southern pacific

148
Q

What happens to surface pressure in Indonesia?

A

low pressure becomes high

149
Q

What happens to surface pressure in the pacific zone?

A

High pressure becomes low

150
Q

What is El Nino?

A

wind driven reversal in the ocean current resulting in warm water moving toward America

151
Q

What is El nina?

A

condition of colder than normal surface waters in the tropical pacific

152
Q

What are consequences of El Nino?

A

decreased intensities of hurricanes in the Atlantic because jet stream is diverted South

153
Q

What are global consequences of El Nino?

A

Northern USA has warmer wintersDry areas of Peru and Ecuador have high rainfallIndonesia/Austrailia/Phillipines have drought

154
Q

What is MEI

A

Multivariate ENSO Index

155
Q

How is MEI calculated?

A

from measurements of sea temperatures, level-pressure, and surface air temperatures to the Eastwest and North-south velocity of components of the trade winds and total amount of cloudiness

156
Q

Where do currents occur?

A

Surface ocean= top 100m=10%Deep Ocean=below 100m=90%

157
Q

What is the driving force of currents?

A

Wind

158
Q

What happens during the Elkman Spiral?

A

water is deflected by coriolis effectEarth rotates further out from underwater appears to be deflected to a greater degree than overlying air

159
Q

What is the Elkman Spiral?

A

Water is deflected to right in North hemisphere and left in Southern Hemisphere.

160
Q

How is the North Equatorial current formed?

A

Northeast trade winds push water toward the west.

161
Q

How is the North Pacific current formed

A

by westerlies moving east to west

162
Q

How is the California and Kuroshio Current formed?

A

water flows towards areas where water has been removed

163
Q

What currents make the Noth Pacifc Gyre?

A

North Equatorial Current, North Pacific Current, California,Kuroshio current

164
Q

What is the principle of the continuity of flow?

A

A fluid flows so the next flux of liquid in or out of a given volume within the fluid is 0

165
Q

What forms the Antarctic Circumpolar Current?

A

Strong Westerlies

166
Q

Where does the Antarctic Circumpolar Current flow?

A

completly around the globe without interuption

167
Q

What does the Antarctic Circumpolar current provide?

A

mechanism of sharing and mixing among oceans

168
Q

How are fronts formed?

A

by Ekman wind convergence which channels the current between them

169
Q

What fronts are part of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current?

A

-Subtropical front-Subantarctic front-Polar/Antarctic front

170
Q

How is the speed of wind compared to the speed of currents?

A

currents are 1/100 speed of wind

171
Q

How to measure volume of water transported by currents?

A

1SV=1 million cubic meters per second

172
Q

Geostrophic Flow?

A

horizontal flow of water occuring when there is a balance of coriolis and gravitational forces acting on water

173
Q

What is Western Intensification?

A

Increase in speed of geostrophic currents along the Western boundary of an Ocean Basin

174
Q

What are factors causing Western Intensification?

A
  1. Eastward turning of the Earth2. Increase of coriolis effect with latitude3. Changing direction of tradewinds and westerlies4. Friction between land masses and ocean water currents
175
Q

How do western currents compare to Eastern currents?

A

Western currents:Fast flowing, narrowEastern Currents: Slow, wide

176
Q

What are examples of western currents?

A

Gulf StreamKuroshio current

177
Q

What are examples of Eastern currents?

A

Canary currentCalifornia current

178
Q

What are permanent wind driven zones?

A

5 major convergent zones3 major divergence zones-related to ocean gyres and geostrophic currents-lower productivity in downwelling areas

179
Q

What are meanders?

A

Oscillations and waves along boundary of current

180
Q

What are eddies?

A

Pockets of water moving in a circular motion.

181
Q

What are mesoscale eddies?

A

10-500km in diameter and persist for day-month timescales

182
Q

What do eddies do?

A

Stir the ocean until they dissipate due to fluid friction, loosing chemical and thermal energyand energy of motion to turbulence

183
Q

How do eddies cause verdical transport in low pressure North hemisphere?

A

Elkman transport of water away from the center to upwelling and nutrients.(convergence, counterclockwise)

184
Q

How do eddies cause verdical transport in high pressure North hemisphere?

A

Elkman transport of water foward leads to downwelling(divergence, clockwise)

185
Q

What are Seasonal wind driven zones?

A

Seasonal changes in wind pattern affect Ekman transport

186
Q

winds blowing along coastlines can generate…

A

Ekman transport of water foward or away from the coast

187
Q

What are primary drivers of deep-water?

A

Temperature, and salinity

188
Q

What is thermohaline circulation?

A

vertical circulation caused by changes in density that are driven by variations in temperature and salinity.

189
Q

What is a mixing line?

A

when two water types having the same density, but different values of salinity and temperature, are mixed, they form a new water type that lies on a mixing line.

190
Q

What are water masses?

A

large volume of water that has the same salinity and temperature.

191
Q

How are water masses identified?

A

by similar patterns of temperature and salinity from surface to depth

192
Q

What are the mechanisms of internal mixing of ocean layers

A

winds, tidea, eddies, turbulent flow

193
Q

What are the characteristics of layered oceans?

A

salinity, temperature, and density at the surface.

194
Q

What does water density controls?

A

the depth to which the water sinks

195
Q

What does sinking water do?

A

slowly mixes with adjacent layers eventually rises at another location.

196
Q

How do winds impact internal mixing?

A

drive waves and currents that supply energy for mixing in shallow water

197
Q

How do tides impact internal mixing?

A

create currents at all depths stirring together water.

198
Q

How do eddies impact internal mixing?

A

form at boundaries of currents that homogenize deeper water masses.

199
Q

How do tides impact internal mixing?

A

occurs when speed of a fluid at a point is continuously undergoing changes in magnitude and direction such that chaotic patterns emerge.

200
Q

What are the layers in the Atlantic Ocean?

A

North Atlantic Deep WaterAntarctic Bottom WaterMediterranean IntermediateAntarctic Intermediate WaterSouth Atlantic Surface Water

201
Q

How is North Atlantic Deep Water formed?

A

Surface water from arctic moves south, while surface water from low latitudes moves north along the coast of North America and then east across the North Atlantic.

202
Q

How does Sea Ice form in the North Atlantic?

A

Downwelling of dense, salty water starts thermohaline circulation.

203
Q

How is the Mediterranean Intermediate Water formed?

A

Water from the Mediterranean leaves the straight of Gibralter and mixes with NADW forming an intermediate layer.

204
Q

How is the Arctic Intermediate Water formed?

A

Surface current convergence at 40°S forms less dense, warmer surface water between Equator and Antarctic. Remains above NADW and forms intermediate layer.

205
Q

How is the South Atlantic Surface Water formed?

A

Divergence zone at 60°S brings mixed NADW & Antarctic Intermediate water to surface to form South Atlantic Surface water which moves northward.

206
Q

How is Antarctic Bottom Water formed?

A

Formed along Antarctica. Is cold and salty from ice formation. It sinks below NADW but only up western side of Atlantic.

207
Q

How fast is mixing are water masses in the Pacific?

A

Very slow

208
Q

What is an estuary?

A

semi-isolated portion of ocean that is diluted by freshwater drainage from land.

209
Q

What is Stratification?

A

Waters of different densities will create interacting layers in estuaries.

210
Q

What is the circulation pattern of a partially mixed estuary?

A

Deep water moves** farther inward** on the rising tide than it moves seaward on the falling tide.

211
Q

A parcel of deep water is moved______on each tidal cycle

A

progressively fartherinward

212
Q

What is water budget?

A

balance between rates of water lostand water gained in an area

213
Q

What is salt budget?

A

balance between rates of salt lost andsalt gained in a body of water

214
Q

What are waves?

A

regularly **occuring transport **of energy

215
Q

What are waves molecularly?

A

energy moving through a substance

216
Q

What is wave motion?

A

movement of **energy isn’t **the **same as movement of particles of the substance** the wave moves through

217
Q

What type of waves are water waves?

A

progressive waves

218
Q

What are progressive waves?

A

energy is moving from a specific point A topoint B.

219
Q

How do progressive waves move?

A

energy moves forwardacross the surface of the ocean horizontally

220
Q

What are genrating forces?

A

disturbing force that** createsa water wave**

221
Q

What are examples of generating forces?

A

TideWindEarthquakesLow pressure systemsDisplacements

222
Q

What are restoring forces?

A

return distrubted **water to equilibrium

223
Q

What is a resotring force for small waves?

A

Surface tension

224
Q

What is a resotring force for small waves?

A

Gravity

225
Q

What are longitudinal waves?

A

-moves due to prgression-particles **oscilate back **and forth-particle displacement parallel to direction of **wave

226
Q

What are transverse waves?

A

energy moves up and downparticle displacement 1 to direction

227
Q

What are water waves?

A

transverse and** longitudinalparticles **are clockwise

228
Q

What are rayleigh waves?

A

transverse and** longitudinal** waves are elliptical

229
Q

What are forced waves?

A

generated by continuously acting force and move fast

230
Q

What are free waves?

A

wave** moves** at normal speed and is **controlled by period and wavelength** **after **it is generated by a force

231
Q

What is wave period?

A

time it takes 2 crests to pass 1 point

232
Q

What is wave frequency?

A

number of times a crest passes 1point over a given amount of time

233
Q

What are capilary waves?

A

small waves whose primaryrestoring force is surface tension

234
Q

What are gravity waves?

A

larger waves whose primaryrestoring force is gravity

235
Q

What are deep water waves?

A

The depth of the ocean is bigger than **half **of the wavelength

236
Q

What are intermediate waters?

A

The depth of the** ocean** is deeper than 1/20 but** shallower** than **1/2 **the wavelength

237
Q

What are shallow water waves?

A

depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelength

238
Q

What are breaking shallow water?

A

depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelengthwave** height** : wavelength bigger than 1:7

239
Q

What is an orbit?

A

path followed by water particles **affected **by a wave’s energy

240
Q

Where do deep water waves occur?

A

occur in** water** deeper thanhalf the wavelength of the waves

241
Q

Where is less energy of motion found?

A

each succeeding depth

242
Q

When the diameter of orbits decreases, the depth _____

A

increases

243
Q

When is the obrbital motion almost equal to zero?

A

depths equal to **one-half **thewavelength,

244
Q

What is the interaction of intermediate waves?

A

wave and the **bottom will begin toaffect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles

245
Q

What is the interation in shallow water waves?

A

**wave **and the bottom will begin to **affect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles

246
Q

What is the orbital motion of shallow waves?

A

elliptical

247
Q

How do elliptical water waves interact?

A

become flatter with depth until, at the** sea floor,** **only **a back-and-forth oscillatory motion remains

248
Q

What happens when the wave “feels bottom”?

A

slows, and the accompanying** reduction** in the wavelength results in **increasedheight and steepness as the wave’s energy is condensed in asmaller** water volume.

249
Q

How do we calculate the steepness of the wave?

A

height/wavelength(h/L)

250
Q

What happens to hight and wavelength when steepness increases?

A

Height IncreasesWavelength decreases

251
Q

What are breakers?

A

**shallow **water waves that become too steep at surface so they collapse

252
Q

How do breakers work?

A

particles at the wave’s crest move faster **toward **the shore resulting in the **curling **of the crest and the eventual breaking of the wave

253
Q

What happens if the wave steepness exceeds 1:7?

A

wave becomes** too steep **and the wave breaks

254
Q

What are the types of breaker waves?

A

SpillingPlungingSurging

255
Q

What are spilling breakers?

A

-lasts long and** continually breaking** and slowly loosing energy across the surf zone-Most common-Flat bottom

256
Q

What are plunging breakers?

A

-entire wave front steepens, curls and **collapses, relesing energy all at once.-Occurs** in** steep bottoms**

257
Q

What are surging?

A

-Don’t break because it never reaches a critical wave **steepness.(H/L)=1:7-diminishes** in size and** looses momentum** as waterrushes up beach face-occurs in** steep bottoms**

258
Q

What are stokes drift?

A

mass** transport** of water forward inthe direction of wave energy** movement.**

259
Q

How do stoke drifts occur?

A

Negligible in open oceanSlow movement against coast causes nearshorecurrents

260
Q

What is the general speed of a wave equation?

A

Celerity(Speed)=wavelength/time

261
Q

What happens to wavelgth as celerity is reduced

A

Wavelength is shortened

262
Q

What are shallow wave speed infuenced by?

A

influenced more by** depth**than wavelength

263
Q

What are deep water waves influecnced by?

A

influenced by wavelength than depth

264
Q

What is dispersion?

A

Sorting of free waves as they move because** long period waves travel faster** than short period waves in deep water.

265
Q

What is deep water group speed?

A

when a groupof waves travels if generated by the same source indeep water

266
Q

What is deepwater group speed equation?

A

Group wave speed=individual wave speed/2

267
Q

What is the shallow water speed equation?

A

celerity=3.13 * Sqare root of depth

268
Q

What is the deep water speed equation?

A

celerity=1.56*period

269
Q

What is gravitational acceleration?

A

9.81

270
Q

What happens to the old wave when a new wave is created?

A

Outer-most wave’s energy is **lost **in **advancing thewave form** into undisturbed water

271
Q

What are deep wave interactions?

A

when wave groupsmeet they pass through **each other** and** continue**

272
Q

What is constructive interference?

A

if crests coincide, they reinforce each other.

273
Q

What is destructive interference?

A

if crests go against each other, they cancel each other

274
Q

What is Wind Generated Wave Height?

A

controlled by speed,duration and fetch.

275
Q

What latitude is best for big waves?

A

40-50 degrees

276
Q

When is there large fetch?

A

When there are no landmasses

277
Q

What are the traits of westerlies in 40-50 degree latitude?

A

continuous and strong

278
Q

What are episodic waves?

A

abnormally highwave that is unrelated to local storm conditions

279
Q

How can modeling rouge waves contribute to practical applications?

A

They can** help **in establishment of mooring systems that can stablilize offshore platforms

280
Q

What is a tsunami?

A

long period sea wave that is **producedby an earthquake, volcanic eruption, sedimentslide or faulting**

281
Q

How long are tsunami wavelengths?

A

very long100-200 km60-120 miles

282
Q

How long are tsunami periods?

A

long(10-20 minutes)

283
Q

What type of wave are tsunamis?

A

**shallow water **waves. Because depth is less than one-twentieth the wavelength

284
Q

What are the 3 stages of tsunamis?

A

GenerationPropogagnationInundation

285
Q

What is generation?

A

The **point **of **source **of energy for tsunamis?

286
Q

what is propagation?

A

movement of tsunami waves through space

287
Q

What is Inundation?

A

**flooding **of coastal systems

288
Q

What is the equation to calculate the celerity of a tsunami?

A

celerity=3.13* squareroot of depth

289
Q

What is NOAA’S project DART?

A

Deep Ocean assesment and reporting of tsunamis

290
Q

What are internal waves?

A

Waves created below the ocean’s surface at the** boundary between 2 destiny layers**

291
Q

What are sources of internal waves?

A

Low pressure systems depress pycnocline and whenstorm moves away will oscillate until reachingequilibrium.* **Speed **of currents above or **below pycnoclinechanges quickly.* Bathymetric changes.

292
Q

Wat are standing waves?

A

surface water oscillates verticallybetween fixed points called nodes but there is noprogression.

293
Q

What happens to standing waves with 2 nodes?

A

A progressive wave directly reflected back on itself produces astanding wave, because the two waves—original and reflected—are moving at the same speed but in opposite directions.

294
Q

What do standing properties depend on?

A

geometryof the basin that the wave is in.

295
Q

What are examples of closed basins?

A

-teacup-lake-ocean basin

296
Q

What is the relationship between length of the basin and period?

A

when the length of the basin isincreased the period of the wave is increased

297
Q

What is the relationship between depth of the basin and period?

A

when the depth of the water isincreased the period is decreased

298
Q

Can standing waves occur in basins?

A

Yes, but the formula changes and the node is usually located at the opening of the basin to open water.

299
Q

What are examples of energy from waves?

A

(1) using the changing level of the water to lift an object,which can then do useful work because of its potential energy.(2) using the orbital motion ofthe water particles or thechanging tilt of the sea surfaceto rock an object to and fro.(3) using rising water tocompress air or water in achamber

300
Q

What are tides?

A

rise and **fall **of the water around the edge of the land

301
Q

How are tides generated?

A

gravatational attraction and centrifugal attraction between Earth, Sun and moon

302
Q

What waves are tides?

A

standing waves

303
Q

How are standing waves created?

A

progressive wave **directly reflected **back on itself produces a **standing **wave.

304
Q

Why are standing waves developed?

A

2 waves (original and reflected) are moving at** same speed** but different directions

305
Q

What is the relationship between wave height and tidal range?

A

they are** equal** to each other

306
Q

What tide does the crest indicate?

A

high tide

307
Q

What tide does the trough indicate?

A

Low tide

308
Q

Why are tides considered shallow waters?

A

wavelength is 1/2 the** circumfrence **of earth but the depth is less than 1/20 the wavelength?

309
Q

What is flow?

A

When tides come in

310
Q

What is ebb?

A

When the tide goes out

311
Q

What is the relationship between the average distance between the moon and Earth?

A

their relationship is constant

312
Q

How does the relationship in distance of moon and Earth stay constant?

A

Gravity and Inertia

313
Q

What is gravity?

A

masses are attracted to one another

314
Q

What is inertia?

A

tendency of **objects **to continue moving in a straight line

315
Q

What parts of gravitational and centrifugal forces are constant?

A

inertia is constant, but the influence of gravity isn’t

316
Q

What is the relationship between gravity force and inertia on the moon side?

A

gravity is more than** inertia**

317
Q

What is the relationship between gravity force and inertia on the sun side?

A

Inertia is more than gravity

318
Q

What are the assumptions of the equilibrium model?

A
  1. Earth is covered in H202. Tide **waves **are progressive3. **Water **is in **equilibrium **with generating forces
319
Q

How long is Lunar orbit?

A

about 27 days

320
Q

What happens when a rotating moon causes a tidal day?

A

the moon moves while Earth rotates

321
Q

How long is a full tidal cycle?

A

24 hours and 50 minutes for full tidal cycle

322
Q

What is a sun tide?

A

Sun** produces** its **own tidal **wave

323
Q

How long does it take for Earth to revolve on its axis with respect to the Sun?

A

about 24 hours

324
Q

How do tides in sun tides produced by the Moon continuously?

A

**eastward **relative **to **the tide wave **produced **by the Sun

325
Q

What is a spring tide?

A

**tides **are **higher **than the moon and is aligned with the sun

326
Q

What are neap tides?

A

tides are **lower **moon and sun are perpendicular

327
Q

What is the tidal range?

A

the difference height between consecutive high and low waters

328
Q

What is the tidal wave amplitude?

A

1/2 of the tidal range?

329
Q

What is a king tide?

A

the greatest tidal effect of a year.

330
Q

How are king tides created?

A

when the orbits and **alignment **of theEarth, moon, and sun combine

331
Q

What is declination?

A

Angle where the moon or sun orbits are offset from the equator due to elliptical orbital paths and** tilt **of the Earth

332
Q

What determines the number of magnitude of tides?

A

location of Earth due to declination

333
Q

What are tidal patterns?

A

tides behave differently in different places.

334
Q

What is a diurnal tide?

A

1 high water and 1 low water each tidal day

335
Q

What is a semi-dirurnal tide?

A

**two high waters **and **twolow waters **each tidal day.

336
Q

How long is a semi dururnal tidal period?

A

12hours and 25minutes

337
Q

How long is a diurnal tide period?

A

24 hours and 50 minutes

338
Q

What is a mixed semi-diurnal tide?

A

**tides **reach different heights and low tides drop to different levels

339
Q

What influences tidal range?

A

**constructive **and **destructive **wave interference

340
Q

What does tidal theory doesn’t explain?

A

Earth turns eastward faster than tide moves freelywestward.Friction displaces tide crest to the **east of expected positionunder moon**

341
Q

What are standing rotary waves?

A

tide that **results **in standing wave **moving **around central node of a basin

342
Q

What does tidal theory not explain (2)?

A
  • Continents separate the oceans, the tide wave isdiscontinuous. Wave is contained within the ocean basins andoscillates in the basin as a standing wave. Reflected from continents.* Refracted by changes in water depth.* Diffracted as it passes through gaps/channels.
343
Q

How do tides and currents turn in the North Hemisphere?

A

current:clockwisetide:counterclockwise

344
Q

How do tides and currents turn in the South Hemisphere?

A

currents: counterclockwisetide:clockwise

345
Q

What happens during the horizontal component of motion?

A

Because the horizontal time is long (0.5period) Coriolis becomes important. NH deflectedRight and SH deflected left. Current has clockwiserotation in NH and counter in SH.

346
Q

Wat is the angle of declination?

A

28.5

MAR 270 (16 decks)

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