mar_270_20231116175412 Flashcards
1
Q
What is phytoplankton?
A
plants of the seaproduce 50% of Earth’s oxygen
2
Q
What is zoo plankton?
A
Animal driftersEat phytoplanktonexport carbon to deep ocean
3
Q
What is a boilogical pump
A
processes where inorganic carbon is fixed into organic matter via photosynthesis and then sequestered away from the atmosphere generally by transport into the deep ocean.
4
Q
What is the Coroliseffect?
A
circulating air is deflected toward the right in the Northern Hemisphere and toward the left in the Southern Hemisphere.
5
Q
What is an Elkman spiral?
A
When surface water molecules move by the force of the wind, they, in turn, drag deeper layers of water molecules below them.
6
Q
What is primary production?
A
storage of energy through the formation of organic matter from inorganic compounds
7
Q
What is Estuarine Circulation?
A
Residual flow pattern in an estuary induced by the density difference between seawater and river water
8
Q
What are Diatoms?
A
Unicellular organisms of phytoplankton composed of silica
9
Q
What is Elnino
A
During normal conditions in the Pacific ocean,trade windsblow west along the equator, taking warm water from South America towards Asia.
10
Q
What is the Redfield ratio
A
the consistent atomic ratio of carbon, nitrogen and phosphorus found in marine phytoplankton and throughout the deep oceansconstant 106:16:1
11
Q
What is the Universe?
A
All existing matter and space considered as a whole
12
Q
What is matter?
A
any material that takes up space
13
Q
What are the four types of matter?
A
solid, liquid, gas, plasma
14
Q
What is the geologic time scale?
A
Used to refer to events from formation of Earth to present.
15
Q
What are the 5 categories of eras?
A
EonsErasPeriodsEpochAges
16
Q
Periods within the phanerozic era are often delineated by ____
A
mass extinction
17
Q
What is latitudeWhat is latitude
A
lines parallel to the equator grid on Earth to form a refrence of location
18
Q
What is longitude?
A
Lines perpendicular to the equator
19
Q
How much is 1 degree
A
60 nautical miles
20
Q
How much is 1minute
A
1 nautical mile
21
Q
How much is 1 second
A
1/60 nautical miles
22
Q
How did sailors measure latitude?
A
the elevation of polaris above the horizon
23
Q
How many degrees are in 1 hour
A
15 degrees
24
Q
How to calculate longitude/ position of the sun
A
If the sun is directly overhead at 12:00 Noon then a location 15° west would be at 11:00 AM.
25
What is 23 1/2 degrees south?
tropic of capricorn
26
# wat us 23What is 23 1/2 N
Tropic of cancer
27
When is the summer/ winter solstices?
Jun 20/Dec 21
28
What are the 5 Ocean basins?
pacific:50.1Atlantic:23.3Indian:19.8Southern:5.4Arctic:1.4
29
What is a hypsographic curve?
graph of land elevation and ocean depth versus area.
30
What is Residence time?
the average length of time during which a substance, a portion of material, or an object is in a given location or condition, such as adsorption or suspension.
31
How much does water cover the ocean?
71%
32
Is water nonpolar or polar?
Polar
33
What is the equation for kinetic energy?
1/2 mass velocity
34
What is the water cycle?
as water is evaporated and precipitated, heat is being transfered to atmosphere which is a source of energy that powers weather systems
35
What is heat?
total amount of kinetic energy in a substance
36
What is a calorie?
amount of kinetic energy needed to raise the temperature of 1g of water by 1c
37
What is temperature?
the average amount of kinetic energy in the atoms and molecules in a substance.
38
What is specific heat?
ability of a substance to give up or take in heat to leading to temperature changes
39
How much does to take to make liquid to gas
+540 calories
40
How to make a solid to a liquid
+80 calories
41
How to get gas to liquid.
-540 calories
42
How to make liquid to solid
-80 calories
43
What is boiling point?
temperature when the saturated vapor pressure of a liquid is equal the atnospheric pressure
44
When can water remain at liquid stage?
Water can remain at liquid state >100°C if you change the pressure.
45
What are the properties of water?
Frozen water is less denseHigh heat capacity and heat of evaporationcohesion and adhesionwater interacts with heat,light, and sound energyIs the universal solvent
46
What are the ways water cen interact with energy
transmitted, reflected refracted, diffracted, absorbed, scatters
47
What is conduction?
Transfer of heat energy through matter by internal molecular motion
48
What is convection?
transfer through movement of a heated gas or liquid
49
What is radiation?
transmitted as electromagnetic maves without a substance to conduct the energy
50
What is verdical temperature distribution?
temperature of seawater decreases with depth. Roughly 75% of ocean has temp between 0- and 4° C.
51
How is light transmitted by water?
absorbtion,scattered,refracted,electromagnetic radiation
52
What is aborbtion when light is transmitted through water?
taking in of a substance by chemical or molecular means, change light or sound into another form of energy (usually heat).
53
What is scatter when light is transmitted through water?
random redirection of light or sound energy by reflection on uneven boundary.
54
What is refraction when light is transmitted through water?
change in direction of a light or sound wave due to a change in the substance it is moving through.
55
What is the electromagnetic radiation
waves of energy formed by electrical and magnetic oscillations that produce LIGHT.
56
What is attenuation?
decrease in the energy of a wave beam with an increase in distance from the surface
57
What is Beer's law?
Iz = I0e-kz
58
What is the depth equation?
-ln(Iz/I0)/k
59
What is attenuation in open ocean water?
50% of the light is attenuated in the first 10m.
60
How much water is attenuated by 100m?
100%
61
How much light is attenuated in costal waters at 10m
96%
62
How much light is attenuated in costal waters at 15m
100%
63
What is attenuation dependent of?
wavelength of light
64
How is sound energy transmitted through water?
With ocean sounds, the energy is transmitted via water molecules vibrating back and forth parallel to the direction of the sound wave, and passing on the energy to adjacent molecules.
65
What is the average velocity of sound in seawater?
1500 m/s(5000 ft/s)
66
What is the average velocity of sound in dry air at 20c?
334 m/s (1100 ft/s)
67
How do high frequency sounds interact with water?
They don't penetrate far beneath the sea floor and are used simply to measure water depth.
68
How do low frequency sounds interact with the ocean?
They penetrate the seafloor sediments and reflect from boundaries between sediment layers.
69
What is a SOFAR channel?
natural sound channel in oceans in which sound can be transmitted for very long distances.
70
What is Salinity?
a measure of the quality of dissolved salts in seawater
71
What is PPT?
unit used by scientists to describe the salinity of the ocean
72
What is the average ocean salinity of the ocean
35 0/00
73
What are conservative constituents?
more than 1 ppt
74
What are non- conservative constituents?
concentrations less than 1 ppt (trace elements)
75
What are sources of salt?
river runoff
76
What is the regulation of salts?
the rate of addition of salts must be balamced by the removal of salts?
77
What are the sources of regulation?
sea spray,evaporation,chemical reactionsbiologiucal processesabsorbtion
78
What is residence time?
mean length of time that a substance remains in solution in the ocean
79
What is the equation of residence time?
total amount of iron in the ocean / rate of supply or removal
80
When is residence time shorter than in oceans?
in rivers
81
What is the principle of constant propositions?
ratios between the major constituent ions in seawater frmain constant regardless of total salinity
82
What is density?
mass per unit volume of a substance
83
What is density impacted by?
Pressure temperaturesalinity
84
What is the effect of pressure on density?
pressure increases 14.7 lbs inch-2 for every 33ft increase in depth (10m)
85
What is the effect of temperature on density?
water density is senstive to temperature changes
86
What is the effect of salt and density?
density increases with dissolved salts
87
What is the average density of seawater?
1.0278 g/cm3 at 4c
88
What is water water stratification?
layering of water that occurs due to changes in the chemical and physical conditions of water
89
What is the thermocline?
temperature gradient changes rapidly with depth
90
What is the halocine
salinity gradient changes with depth
91
When does the halocline stay stable?
below 2 km
92
# What is the pyroclineWhat is the pyrocline
density gradient influenced by salinity temperature and pressure changes in depth
93
# WhatWhat is stratification?
waters of different densities will create oceanic layers
94
What are Biogeochemical Cycles?
interactionsbetween organisms and their environments thatrecycle chemical elements or molecules.
95
What are 6 most import elements?
Caron, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, oxygen, Phosphorus, and sulfur
96
What are Biogeochemical cycles?
interactionsbetween organisms and their environments thatrecycle chemical elements or molecules.
97
What are macro molecules
Carbohydrates, lipids, protein, nucleic acids
98
What nitrogen from the nitrogen cycle can bacteria use?
Nitrogen gas
99
What is considered fixed nitrogen and can be used by other organisms?
Ammonia NH4Nitrites NO2-Nitrates NO3-
100
What does the redfield ratio measure?
Carbon: Silica: Nitrogen: Phosphorous106:40:16:1
101
What are Natural Sources of Nutrients in Estuaries?
watersedimentsriver runoff
102
What are Anthropogenic Sources of Nutrients in Estuaries?
urban runoffresidential runoffagriculture and livestock runoff
103
What controls the flow of nutrients through estuaries?
-Topographical and bathymetric features influence residence time and flushing rates-Freshwater inputs with high concentrations of nutrients are usually more important than tidal inputs-Heat input influences stratification and therefore biological processing-Exchanges across the benthic/water interface-Submarine groundwater discharge
104
What are global flows of carbon?
fossil fuelsatnospherelandepipelagicmesopelagic
105
What is atmosphere?
**thin layer** of **homogeneous mixture** of gases extending **90KM** above Earth
106
What is the composition of air?
Nitrogen 78%Oxygen 21%Other 1%
107
What is density of air controlled by?
temperaturewater vaporaltitude
108
What is the relationship between air temperature and density?
**Warm air** is **less dense** than **cold air**
109
What is the relationship between air humidity and density?
**Humid air** is **more dense** that **dry air**
110
What is the relationship between air compression and density?
**more compression** means **more dense**
111
What is atmospheric pressure?
pressure at any given point on Earth exerted by the atmosphere as a consequence of gravatational force exerted on the colum of air directly above.
112
What is the average sea pressure?
1013.25 Milibars14.7 lbs. in
113
What are low pressure zones?
**density of air** is **less** than average
114
What happens to air in low pressure zones?
Air **rises**
115
What are high pressure zones?
**density of air** is **more** than average
116
What happens to air in high pressure zones?
Sinks
117
Why does air move?
less dense air risesmore dense air sinks to Earth
118
Which way does Earth Rotate?
West ot East
119
How does latitude impact speed of rotation?
As **latitude decreases, roation speed increases**
120
What is the coriolis effect?
Force acting on a body in motion due to the rotation of the Earth causing deflection.
121
How does the coriolis effect impact the hemispheres?
Earth Rotates to the **right **in the **North hemisphere**and **Left** in the **Southern hemispere**
122
What is deflection in relation to the coriolis effect?
amounts of deflected win is **dependent** on **speed **and **location**
123
Which winds deviate the most?
**polar**, and **fast** winds
124
Which wind deviates the least?
**tropical**, and **slow** winds
125
How are winds named?
By the direction they are moving
126
What are rising air areas?
Doldrums
127
What are high pressure areas?
horse latitudes
128
What is the ITCZ?
Intrtropical convergence zone
129
What happens at the ITCZ
area of rising air and high atmospheric pressure near equatorWhere wind systems of Northern and Southern Hemispheres converge
130
What happens to land and ocean in summer months?
land is warmer than the oceanlow pressures develop global high pressure belt
131
What happens to air in the summer?
moves away and deflects right.
132
What happens to land and ocean during winter months?
land is colder than the ocean.high pressure zones separate low pressure zones over water
133
How does air move during winter months
Pulls in and deflects right
134
How does air move when theres counterclockwise roation at low pressure?
Moves in and deflects right
135
What are modern scale circulations?
rising air over land replaced by warm moist airCarried on southwest winds from Indian oceanOffshore airflow causes condensation
136
What is rain shadow?
Mountains deflect wind upward:coolsriding on windward side of mountain; heavy precipitationDescending air on leeward side: low precipitation
137
What is an example of a small scale circulation pattern?
land sea breezes
138
What are hurricanes?
tropical cyclonic storm wind speeds of 73 mph
139
When do hurricanes occur?
tropical oceans when surface water temperature exceeds 28 celcius
140
What is a storm surge?
**elevation of sea surface** beneath the center of a storm caused by l**ow intense pressure**
141
What is a storm tide?
**max. sea surface elevation **when **storm surge** collides with **high tide**
142
What is ENSO?
periods of climate conditions centered in tropical pacific oceans.
143
What is the frequency of ENSO?
3-7 years
144
How long does ENSO lasts?
lasts 1 year
145
What does ENSO cause?
disruptions to normal atmosphere/ ocean interactions
146
What is a typical system?
movement of water from East to West.deep water upwells to replace it keeping oceans cool along coast of South America
147
What is Southern Oscillation?
periodic reversal of low and high pressure areas in southern pacific
148
What happens to surface pressure in Indonesia?
low pressure becomes high
149
What happens to surface pressure in the pacific zone?
High pressure becomes low
150
What is El Nino?
wind driven reversal in the ocean current resulting in warm water moving toward America
151
What is El nina?
condition of colder than normal surface waters in the tropical pacific
152
What are consequences of El Nino?
decreased intensities of hurricanes in the Atlantic because jet stream is diverted South
153
What are global consequences of El Nino?
Northern USA has warmer wintersDry areas of Peru and Ecuador have high rainfallIndonesia/Austrailia/Phillipines have drought
154
What is MEI
Multivariate ENSO Index
155
How is MEI calculated?
from measurements of sea temperatures, level-pressure, and surface air temperatures to the Eastwest and North-south velocity of components of the trade winds and total amount of cloudiness
156
Where do currents occur?
Surface ocean= top 100m=10%Deep Ocean=below 100m=90%
157
What is the driving force of currents?
Wind
158
What happens during the Elkman Spiral?
water is deflected by coriolis effectEarth rotates further out from underwater appears to be deflected to a greater degree than overlying air
159
What is the Elkman Spiral?
Water is deflected to right in North hemisphere and left in Southern Hemisphere.
160
How is the North Equatorial current formed?
Northeast trade winds push water toward the west.
161
How is the North Pacific current formed
by westerlies moving east to west
162
How is the California and Kuroshio Current formed?
water flows towards areas where water has been removed
163
What currents make the Noth Pacifc Gyre?
North Equatorial Current, North Pacific Current, California,Kuroshio current
164
What is the principle of the continuity of flow?
A fluid flows so the next flux of liquid in or out of a given volume within the fluid is 0
165
What forms the Antarctic Circumpolar Current?
Strong Westerlies
166
Where does the Antarctic Circumpolar Current flow?
completly around the globe without interuption
167
What does the Antarctic Circumpolar current provide?
mechanism of sharing and mixing among oceans
168
How are fronts formed?
by Ekman wind convergence which channels the current between them
169
What fronts are part of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current?
-Subtropical front-Subantarctic front-Polar/Antarctic front
170
How is the speed of wind compared to the speed of currents?
currents are 1/100 speed of wind
171
How to measure volume of water transported by currents?
1SV=1 million cubic meters per second
172
Geostrophic Flow?
horizontal flow of water occuring when there is a balance of coriolis and gravitational forces acting on water
173
What is Western Intensification?
Increase in speed of geostrophic currents along the Western boundary of an Ocean Basin
174
What are factors causing Western Intensification?
1. Eastward turning of the Earth2. Increase of coriolis effect with latitude3. Changing direction of tradewinds and westerlies4. Friction between land masses and ocean water currents
175
How do western currents compare to Eastern currents?
Western currents:Fast flowing, narrowEastern Currents: Slow, wide
176
What are examples of western currents?
Gulf StreamKuroshio current
177
What are examples of Eastern currents?
Canary currentCalifornia current
178
What are permanent wind driven zones?
5 major convergent zones3 major divergence zones-related to ocean gyres and geostrophic currents-lower productivity in downwelling areas
179
What are meanders?
Oscillations and waves along boundary of current
180
What are eddies?
Pockets of water moving in a circular motion.
181
What are mesoscale eddies?
10-500km in diameter and persist for day-month timescales
182
What do eddies do?
Stir the ocean until they dissipate due to fluid friction, loosing chemical and thermal energyand energy of motion to turbulence
183
How do eddies cause verdical transport in low pressure North hemisphere?
Elkman transport of water away from the center to upwelling and nutrients.(convergence, counterclockwise)
184
How do eddies cause verdical transport in high pressure North hemisphere?
Elkman transport of water foward leads to downwelling(divergence, clockwise)
185
What are Seasonal wind driven zones?
Seasonal changes in wind pattern affect Ekman transport
186
winds blowing along coastlines can generate...
Ekman transport of water foward or away from the coast
187
What are primary drivers of deep-water?
Temperature, and salinity
188
What is thermohaline circulation?
**vertical circulation** caused by **changes in density** that are **driven by variations in temperature and salinity.**
189
What is a mixing line?
when two water types having the same density, but different values of salinity and temperature, are mixed, they form a new water type that lies on a mixing line.
190
What are water masses?
large volume of water that has the same salinity and temperature.
191
How are water masses identified?
by similar patterns of temperature and salinity from surface to depth
192
What are the mechanisms of internal mixing of ocean layers
winds, tidea, eddies, turbulent flow
193
What are the characteristics of layered oceans?
salinity, temperature, and density at the surface.
194
What does water density controls?
the depth to which the water sinks
195
What does sinking water do?
slowly mixes with adjacent layers eventually rises at another location.
196
How do winds impact internal mixing?
drive waves and currents that supply energy for mixing in shallow water
197
How do tides impact internal mixing?
create currents at all depths stirring together water.
198
How do eddies impact internal mixing?
form at boundaries of currents that homogenize deeper water masses.
199
How do tides impact internal mixing?
occurs when speed of a fluid at a point is continuously undergoing changes in magnitude and direction such that chaotic patterns emerge.
200
What are the layers in the Atlantic Ocean?
North Atlantic Deep WaterAntarctic Bottom WaterMediterranean IntermediateAntarctic Intermediate WaterSouth Atlantic Surface Water
201
How is North Atlantic Deep Water formed?
Surface water from arctic moves south, while surface water from low latitudes moves north along the coast of North America and then east across the North Atlantic.
202
How does Sea Ice form in the North Atlantic?
Downwelling of dense, salty water starts thermohaline circulation.
203
How is the Mediterranean Intermediate Water formed?
Water from the Mediterranean leaves the straight of Gibralter and mixes with NADW forming an intermediate layer.
204
How is the Arctic Intermediate Water formed?
Surface current convergence at 40°S forms less dense, warmer surface water between Equator and Antarctic. Remains above NADW and forms intermediate layer.
205
How is the South Atlantic Surface Water formed?
Divergence zone at 60°S brings mixed NADW & Antarctic Intermediate water to surface to form South Atlantic Surface water which moves northward.
206
How is Antarctic Bottom Water formed?
Formed along Antarctica. Is cold and salty from ice formation. It sinks below NADW but only up western side of Atlantic.
207
How fast is mixing are water masses in the Pacific?
Very slow
208
What is an estuary?
semi-isolated portion of ocean that is diluted by freshwater drainage from land.
209
What is Stratification?
Waters of different densities will create interacting layers in estuaries.
210
What is the circulation pattern of a partially mixed estuary?
**Deep water** moves** farther inward** on the **rising tide** than it moves **seaward** on the **falling tide**.
211
A parcel of deep water is moved______on each tidal cycle
progressively **farther****inward**
212
What is water budget?
**balance** between **rates of water lost**and **water gained** in an area
213
What is salt budget?
balance between **rates of salt lost** and**salt gained** in a body of water
214
What are waves?
regularly **occuring transport **of **energy**
215
What are waves molecularly?
energy moving through a substance
216
What is wave motion?
**movement **of **energy** **isn't **the **same** as **movement** of **particles** of the** substance** the **wave moves through**
217
What type of waves are water waves?
progressive waves
218
What are progressive waves?
energy is moving from a **specific point** A topoint B.
219
How do progressive waves move?
**energy** moves **forward****across** the **surface** of the **ocean horizontally**
220
What are genrating forces?
**disturbing force** that** creates**a water** wave**
221
What are examples of generating forces?
**T**ide**W**ind**E**arthquakes**L**ow pressure systems**D**isplacements
222
What are restoring forces?
**return** distrubted **water to equilibrium
223
What is a resotring force for small waves?
Surface tension
224
What is a resotring force for small waves?
Gravity
225
What are longitudinal waves?
-**moves** due to **prgression**-particles **oscilate back **and **forth**-particle **displacement parallel** to **direction** of **wave
226
What are transverse waves?
**energy** moves **up** and **down**particle **displacement 1 to direction**
227
What are water waves?
**transverse** and** longitudina**l**particles **are **clockwise**
228
What are rayleigh waves?
**transverse** and** longitudinal** **waves** are **elliptical**
229
What are forced waves?
**generated** by **continuously** acting **force** and move **fast**
230
What are free waves?
wave** moves** at **normal speed **and is **controlled** by **period** and** wavelength** **after **it is **generated by** a **force**
231
What is wave period?
**time** it takes **2 crests** to **pass 1 point**
232
What is wave frequency?
number of **times** a **crest** passes **1point** over a given **amount of time**
233
What are capilary waves?
**small waves** whose **primaryrestoring force** is **surface tension**
234
What are gravity waves?
**larger waves** whose **primaryrestoring force** is **gravity**
235
What are deep water waves?
The **depth of the ocean** is **bigger** than **half **of the **wavelength**
236
What are intermediate waters?
The **depth** of the** ocean** is **deeper** than **1/20** but** shallower** than **1/2 **the **wavelength**
237
What are shallow water waves?
**depth** of the** ocean** is** less** than **1/20** the **wavelength**
238
What are breaking shallow water?
**depth** of the** ocean** is** less** than **1/20** the **wavelength**wave** height** : **wavelength bigger** than **1:7**
239
What is an orbit?
**path** followed by **water particles** **affected **by a **wave's energy**
240
Where do deep water waves occur?
occur in** water** **deeper **than**half** the **wavelength** of the **waves**
241
Where is less energy of motion found?
**each** succeeding **depth**
242
When the diameter of orbits decreases, the depth _____
increases
243
When is the obrbital motion almost equal to zero?
**depths** **equal **to **one-half **the**wavelength**,
244
What is the interaction of intermediate waves?
**wave **and the **bottom** will **begin** to**affect **the **shape** of the **orbits** made **by** the **water particles**
245
What is the interation in shallow water waves?
**wave **and the **bottom** will **begin** to **affect **the **shape** of the **orbits** made **by** the **water particles**
246
What is the orbital motion of shallow waves?
elliptical
247
How do elliptical water waves interact?
become **flatter** with **depth** **until**, at the** sea floor,** **only **a **back-and-forth** oscillatory **motion** remains
248
What happens when the wave "feels bottom"?
**slows**, and the accompanying** reduction** in the **wavelength results **in **increasedheight** and **steepness** as the **wave’s energy** is **condensed** in a**smaller** water **volume**.
249
How do we calculate the steepness of the wave?
height/wavelength(h/L)
250
What happens to hight and wavelength when steepness increases?
Height IncreasesWavelength decreases
251
What are breakers?
**shallow **water **waves** that become **too steep** at surface so **they collapse**
252
How do breakers work?
**particles** at the wave's **crest** move **faster** **toward **the **shore** resulting in the **curling **of the **crest** and the eventual **breaking** of the **wave**
253
What happens if the wave steepness exceeds 1:7?
**wave** becomes** too steep **and the wave **breaks**
254
What are the types of breaker waves?
SpillingPlungingSurging
255
What are spilling breakers?
-lasts **long** and** continually breaking** and **slowly loosing energy** across the **surf zone**-Most **common**-**Flat** bottom
256
What are plunging breakers?
-entire **wave** front **steepens, curls **and **collapses**, **relesing energy** all **at once**.-**Occurs** in** steep bottoms**
257
What are surging?
-**Don't break** because it **never reaches** a **critical **wave **steepness**.(H/L)=1:7-**diminishes** in **size** and** looses momentum** as **waterrushes up beach face**-occurs in** steep bottoms**
258
What are stokes drift?
mass** transport** of **water** forward inthe **direction** of **wave** energy** movement.**
259
How do stoke drifts occur?
**Negligible** in **open ocean****Slow** movement **against coast** **causes nearshorecurrents**
260
What is the general speed of a wave equation?
Celerity(Speed)=wavelength/time
261
What happens to wavelgth as celerity is reduced
Wavelength is shortened
262
What are shallow wave speed infuenced by?
influenced more by** depth**than **wavelength**
263
What are deep water waves influecnced by?
influenced by **wavelength** than **depth**
264
What is dispersion?
**Sorting** of **free waves** as they move because** long period waves travel faster** than **short period waves** in **deep water**.
265
What is deep water group speed?
when a **group**of **waves travels** if **generated** by the **same source** in**deep water**
266
What is deepwater group speed equation?
Group wave speed=individual wave speed/2
267
What is the shallow water speed equation?
celerity=3.13 * Sqare root of depth
268
What is the deep water speed equation?
celerity=1.56*period
269
What is gravitational acceleration?
9.81
270
What happens to the old wave when a new wave is created?
**Outer**-most **wave’s energy **is **lost **in **advancing** the**wave form** into **undisturbed water**
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What are deep wave interactions?
when **wave groups****meet** they **pass **through **e****ach other** and** continue**
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What is constructive interference?
if **crests coincide**, they **reinforce** each other.
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What is destructive interference?
if **crests go against** each other, they **cancel** each other
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What is Wind Generated Wave Height?
controlled by s**peed,duration** and **fetch.**
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What latitude is best for big waves?
40-50 degrees
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When is there large fetch?
When there are **no landmasses**
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What are the traits of westerlies in 40-50 degree latitude?
**continuous** and **strong**
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What are episodic waves?
**abnormally high**wave that is **unrelated** to **local storm conditions**
279
How can modeling rouge waves contribute to practical applications?
They can** help **in **establishment** of **mooring systems** that can **stablilize offshore platforms**
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What is a tsunami?
**long period sea wave **that is **produced**by an **earthquake, volcanic eruption, sedimentslide** or** faulting**
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How long are tsunami wavelengths?
**very long**100-200 km60-120 miles
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How long are tsunami periods?
long(10-20 minutes)
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What type of wave are tsunamis?
**shallow water **waves. Because **depth** is **less** than **one-twentieth** the **wavelength**
284
What are the 3 stages of tsunamis?
**G**eneration**P**ropogagnation**I**nundation
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What is generation?
The **point **of **source **of **energy** for tsunamis?
286
what is propagation?
**movement** of **tsunami waves** through **space**
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What is Inundation?
**flooding **of **coastal systems**
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What is the equation to calculate the celerity of a tsunami?
celerity=3.13* squareroot of depth
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What is NOAA'S project DART?
**Deep Ocean assesment** and **reporting** of **tsunamis**
290
What are internal waves?
**Waves** created **below** the **ocean's surface** at the** boundary between 2 destiny layers**
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What are sources of internal waves?
Low pressure systems depress pycnocline and whenstorm moves away will oscillate until reachingequilibrium.* **Speed **of **currents** **above** or **below pycnoclinechanges quickly.* Bathymetric changes.
292
Wat are standing waves?
surface water oscillates verticallybetween fixed points called nodes but there is noprogression.
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What happens to standing waves with 2 nodes?
A progressive wave directly reflected back on itself produces astanding wave, because the two waves—original and reflected—are moving at the same speed but in opposite directions.
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What do standing properties depend on?
geometryof the basin that the wave is in.
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What are examples of closed basins?
-teacup-lake-ocean basin
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What is the relationship between length of the basin and period?
when the length of the basin isincreased the period of the wave is increased
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What is the relationship between depth of the basin and period?
when the depth of the water isincreased the period is decreased
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Can standing waves occur in basins?
Yes, but the formula changes and the node is usually located at the opening of the basin to open water.
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What are examples of energy from waves?
(1) using the changing level of the water to lift an object,which can then do useful work because of its potential energy.(2) using the orbital motion ofthe water particles or thechanging tilt of the sea surfaceto rock an object to and fro.(3) using rising water tocompress air or water in achamber
300
What are tides?
**rise** and **fall **of the water **around** the **edge** of the **land**
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How are tides generated?
**gravatational attraction** and **centrifugal attraction** between **Earth, Sun and moon**
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What waves are tides?
**standing** waves
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How are standing waves created?
**progressive** wave **directly reflected **back **on itself** **produces** a **standing **wave.
304
Why are standing waves developed?
**2 waves** **(original** and **reflected**) are **moving** at** same speed** but **different directions**
305
What is the relationship between wave height and tidal range?
they are** equal** to each other
306
What tide does the crest indicate?
**high** tide
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What tide does the trough indicate?
**Low** tide
308
Why are tides considered shallow waters?
**wavelength** is **1/2** the** circumfrence **of **earth** but the **depth** is **less** than **1/20** the **wavelength**?
309
What is flow?
When tides **come in**
310
What is ebb?
When the tide **goes out**
311
What is the relationship between the average distance between the moon and Earth?
their relationship is **constant**
312
How does the relationship in distance of moon and Earth stay constant?
**Gravity** and **Inertia**
313
What is gravity?
**masses** are **attracted** to **one another**
314
What is inertia?
**tendency** of **objects **to continue **moving** in a **straight line**
315
What parts of gravitational and centrifugal forces are constant?
**inertia** is **constant**, but the influence of **gravity isn't**
316
What is the relationship between gravity force and inertia on the moon side?
**gravity** is **more** than** inertia**
317
What is the relationship between gravity force and inertia on the sun side?
**Inertia** is **more** than **gravity**
318
What are the assumptions of the equilibrium model?
1. **Earth** is **covered** in **H20**2. Tide **waves **are **progressive**3. **Water **is in **equilibrium **with ***generating forces***
319
How long is Lunar orbit?
about **27** days
320
What happens when a rotating moon causes a tidal day?
the **moon moves** while **Earth rotates**
321
How long is a full tidal cycle?
**24 hours **and** 50 minutes** for full tidal cycle
322
What is a sun tide?
Sun** produces** its **own tidal **wave
323
How long does it take for Earth to revolve on its axis with respect to the Sun?
about **24 hours**
324
How do tides in sun tides produced by the Moon continuously?
**eastward **relative **to **the **tide** wave **produced **by the **Sun**
325
What is a spring tide?
**tides **are **higher **than the **moon** and is **aligned** with the **sun**
326
What are neap tides?
**tides** are **lower ****moon** and **sun** are **perpendicular**
327
What is the tidal range?
the **difference height** between **consecutive high** and **low waters**
328
What is the tidal wave amplitude?
1/2 of the tidal range?
329
What is a king tide?
the greatest tidal effect of a year.
330
How are king tides created?
when the **orbits **and **alignment **of the**Earth, moon, and sun** **combine**
331
What is declination?
**Angle** where the **moon** or **sun orbits** are **offset** from **the equator** due to **elliptical orbital paths** and** tilt **of the **Earth**
332
What determines the number of magnitude of tides?
**location** of **Earth** due to **declination**
333
What are tidal patterns?
tides behave differently in different places.
334
What is a diurnal tide?
1 high water and 1 low water each tidal day
335
What is a semi-dirurnal tide?
**two high waters **and **twolow waters **each tidal day.
336
How long is a semi dururnal tidal period?
12hours and 25minutes
337
How long is a diurnal tide period?
24 hours and 50 minutes
338
What is a mixed semi-diurnal tide?
**tides **reach **different heights** and **low tides** drop to **different levels**
339
What influences tidal range?
**constructive **and **destructive **wave **interference**
340
What does tidal theory doesn't explain?
**Earth** turns **eastward faster** than **tide** moves **freelywestward.****Friction displaces tide crest **to the **east** of **expected position****under moon**
341
What are standing rotary waves?
**tide** that **results **in **standing wave** **moving **around **central node** of a **basin**
342
What does tidal theory not explain (2)?
* **Continents separate the oceans, the tide wave isdiscontinuous.* Wave is contained within the ocean basins andoscillates in the basin as a standing wave.* Reflected from continents.* Refracted by changes in water depth.* Diffracted as it passes through gaps/channels.
343
How do tides and currents turn in the North Hemisphere?
current:clockwisetide:counterclockwise
344
How do tides and currents turn in the South Hemisphere?
currents: counterclockwisetide:clockwise
345
What happens during the horizontal component of motion?
Because the horizontal time is long (0.5period) Coriolis becomes important. NH deflectedRight and SH deflected left. Current has clockwiserotation in NH and counter in SH.
346
Wat is the angle of declination?
28.5
