mar_270_20231116175412 Flashcards
What is phytoplankton?
plants of the seaproduce 50% of Earth’s oxygen
What is zoo plankton?
Animal driftersEat phytoplanktonexport carbon to deep ocean
What is a boilogical pump
processes where inorganic carbon is fixed into organic matter via photosynthesis and then sequestered away from the atmosphere generally by transport into the deep ocean.
What is the Coroliseffect?
circulating air is deflected toward the right in the Northern Hemisphere and toward the left in the Southern Hemisphere.
What is an Elkman spiral?
When surface water molecules move by the force of the wind, they, in turn, drag deeper layers of water molecules below them.
What is primary production?
storage of energy through the formation of organic matter from inorganic compounds
What is Estuarine Circulation?
Residual flow pattern in an estuary induced by the density difference between seawater and river water
What are Diatoms?
Unicellular organisms of phytoplankton composed of silica
What is Elnino
During normal conditions in the Pacific ocean,trade windsblow west along the equator, taking warm water from South America towards Asia.
What is the Redfield ratio
the consistent atomic ratio of carbon, nitrogen and phosphorus found in marine phytoplankton and throughout the deep oceansconstant 106:16:1
What is the Universe?
All existing matter and space considered as a whole
What is matter?
any material that takes up space
What are the four types of matter?
solid, liquid, gas, plasma
What is the geologic time scale?
Used to refer to events from formation of Earth to present.
What are the 5 categories of eras?
EonsErasPeriodsEpochAges
Periods within the phanerozic era are often delineated by ____
mass extinction
What is latitudeWhat is latitude
lines parallel to the equator grid on Earth to form a refrence of location
What is longitude?
Lines perpendicular to the equator
How much is 1 degree
60 nautical miles
How much is 1minute
1 nautical mile
How much is 1 second
1/60 nautical miles
How did sailors measure latitude?
the elevation of polaris above the horizon
How many degrees are in 1 hour
15 degrees
How to calculate longitude/ position of the sun
If the sun is directly overhead at 12:00 Noon then a location 15° west would be at 11:00 AM.
What is 23 1/2 degrees south?
tropic of capricorn
wat us 23What is 23 1/2 N
Tropic of cancer
When is the summer/ winter solstices?
Jun 20/Dec 21
What are the 5 Ocean basins?
pacific:50.1Atlantic:23.3Indian:19.8Southern:5.4Arctic:1.4
What is a hypsographic curve?
graph of land elevation and ocean depth versus area.
What is Residence time?
the average length of time during which a substance, a portion of material, or an object is in a given location or condition, such as adsorption or suspension.
How much does water cover the ocean?
71%
Is water nonpolar or polar?
Polar
What is the equation for kinetic energy?
1/2 mass velocity
What is the water cycle?
as water is evaporated and precipitated, heat is being transfered to atmosphere which is a source of energy that powers weather systems
What is heat?
total amount of kinetic energy in a substance
What is a calorie?
amount of kinetic energy needed to raise the temperature of 1g of water by 1c
What is temperature?
the average amount of kinetic energy in the atoms and molecules in a substance.
What is specific heat?
ability of a substance to give up or take in heat to leading to temperature changes
How much does to take to make liquid to gas
+540 calories
How to make a solid to a liquid
+80 calories
How to get gas to liquid.
-540 calories
How to make liquid to solid
-80 calories
What is boiling point?
temperature when the saturated vapor pressure of a liquid is equal the atnospheric pressure
When can water remain at liquid stage?
Water can remain at liquid state >100°C if you change the pressure.
What are the properties of water?
Frozen water is less denseHigh heat capacity and heat of evaporationcohesion and adhesionwater interacts with heat,light, and sound energyIs the universal solvent
What are the ways water cen interact with energy
transmitted, reflected refracted, diffracted, absorbed, scatters
What is conduction?
Transfer of heat energy through matter by internal molecular motion
What is convection?
transfer through movement of a heated gas or liquid
What is radiation?
transmitted as electromagnetic maves without a substance to conduct the energy
What is verdical temperature distribution?
temperature of seawater decreases with depth. Roughly 75% of ocean has temp between 0- and 4° C.
How is light transmitted by water?
absorbtion,scattered,refracted,electromagnetic radiation
What is aborbtion when light is transmitted through water?
taking in of a substance by chemical or molecular means, change light or sound into another form of energy (usually heat).
What is scatter when light is transmitted through water?
random redirection of light or sound energy by reflection on uneven boundary.
What is refraction when light is transmitted through water?
change in direction of a light or sound wave due to a change in the substance it is moving through.
What is the electromagnetic radiation
waves of energy formed by electrical and magnetic oscillations that produce LIGHT.
What is attenuation?
decrease in the energy of a wave beam with an increase in distance from the surface
What is Beer’s law?
Iz = I0e-kz
What is the depth equation?
-ln(Iz/I0)/k
What is attenuation in open ocean water?
50% of the light is attenuated in the first 10m.
How much water is attenuated by 100m?
100%
How much light is attenuated in costal waters at 10m
96%
How much light is attenuated in costal waters at 15m
100%
What is attenuation dependent of?
wavelength of light
How is sound energy transmitted through water?
With ocean sounds, the energy is transmitted viawater molecules vibrating back and forth parallel to the direction of the sound wave, and passing on the energy to adjacent molecules.
What is the average velocity of sound in seawater?
1500 m/s(5000 ft/s)
What is the average velocity of sound in dry air at 20c?
334 m/s (1100 ft/s)
How do high frequency sounds interact with water?
They don’t penetrate far beneath the sea floor and are used simply to measure water depth.
How do low frequency sounds interact with the ocean?
They penetrate the seafloor sediments and reflect from boundaries between sediment layers.
What is a SOFAR channel?
natural sound channel in oceans in which sound can be transmitted for very long distances.
What is Salinity?
a measure of the quality of dissolved salts in seawater
What is PPT?
unit used by scientists to describe the salinity of the ocean
What is the average ocean salinity of the ocean
35 0/00
What are conservative constituents?
more than 1 ppt
What are non- conservative constituents?
concentrations less than 1 ppt (trace elements)
What are sources of salt?
river runoff
What is the regulation of salts?
the rate of addition of salts must be balamced by the removal of salts?
What are the sources of regulation?
sea spray,evaporation,chemical reactionsbiologiucal processesabsorbtion
What is residence time?
mean length of time that a substance remains in solution in the ocean
What is the equation of residence time?
total amount of iron in the ocean / rate of supply or removal
When is residence time shorter than in oceans?
in rivers
What is the principle of constant propositions?
ratios between the major constituent ions in seawater frmain constant regardless of total salinity
What is density?
mass per unit volume of a substance
What is density impacted by?
Pressure temperaturesalinity
What is the effect of pressure on density?
pressure increases 14.7 lbs inch-2 for every 33ft increase in depth (10m)
What is the effect of temperature on density?
water density is senstive to temperature changes
What is the effect of salt and density?
density increases with dissolved salts
What is the average density of seawater?
1.0278 g/cm3 at 4c
What is water water stratification?
layering of water that occurs due to changes in the chemical and physical conditions of water
What is the thermocline?
temperature gradient changes rapidly with depth
What is the halocine
salinity gradient changes with depth
When does the halocline stay stable?
below 2 km
What is the pyroclineWhat is the pyrocline
density gradient influenced by salinity temperature and pressure changes in depth
WhatWhat is stratification?
waters of different densities will create oceanic layers
What are Biogeochemical Cycles?
interactionsbetween organisms and their environments thatrecycle chemical elements or molecules.
What are 6 most import elements?
Caron, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, oxygen, Phosphorus, and sulfur
What are Biogeochemical cycles?
interactionsbetween organisms and their environments thatrecycle chemical elements or molecules.
What are macro molecules
Carbohydrates, lipids, protein, nucleic acids
What nitrogen from the nitrogen cycle can bacteria use?
Nitrogen gas
What is considered fixed nitrogen and can be used by other organisms?
Ammonia NH4Nitrites NO2-Nitrates NO3-
What does the redfield ratio measure?
Carbon: Silica: Nitrogen: Phosphorous106:40:16:1
What are Natural Sources of Nutrients in Estuaries?
watersedimentsriver runoff
What are Anthropogenic Sources of Nutrients in Estuaries?
urban runoffresidential runoffagriculture and livestock runoff
What controls the flow of nutrients through estuaries?
-Topographical and bathymetric features influence residence time and flushing rates-Freshwater inputs with high concentrations of nutrients are usually more important than tidal inputs-Heat input influences stratification and therefore biological processing-Exchanges across the benthic/water interface-Submarine groundwater discharge
What are global flows of carbon?
fossil fuelsatnospherelandepipelagicmesopelagic
What is atmosphere?
thin layer of homogeneous mixture of gases extending 90KM above Earth
What is the composition of air?
Nitrogen 78%Oxygen 21%Other 1%
What is density of air controlled by?
temperaturewater vaporaltitude
What is the relationship between air temperature and density?
Warm air is less dense than cold air
What is the relationship between air humidity and density?
Humid air is more dense that dry air
What is the relationship between air compression and density?
more compression means more dense
What is atmospheric pressure?
pressure at any given point on Earth exerted by the atmosphere as a consequence of gravatational force exerted on the colum of air directly above.
What is the average sea pressure?
1013.25 Milibars14.7 lbs. in
What are low pressure zones?
density of air is less than average
What happens to air in low pressure zones?
Air rises
What are high pressure zones?
density of air is more than average
What happens to air in high pressure zones?
Sinks
Why does air move?
less dense air risesmore dense air sinks to Earth
Which way does Earth Rotate?
West ot East
How does latitude impact speed of rotation?
As latitude decreases, roation speed increases
What is the coriolis effect?
Force acting on a body in motion due to the rotation of the Earth causing deflection.
How does the coriolis effect impact the hemispheres?
Earth Rotates to the **right **in the North hemisphereand Left in the Southern hemispere
What is deflection in relation to the coriolis effect?
amounts of deflected win is dependent on **speed **and location
Which winds deviate the most?
polar, and fast winds
Which wind deviates the least?
tropical, and slow winds
How are winds named?
By the direction they are moving
What are rising air areas?
Doldrums
What are high pressure areas?
horse latitudes
What is the ITCZ?
Intrtropical convergence zone
What happens at the ITCZ
area of rising air and high atmospheric pressure near equatorWhere wind systems of Northern and Southern Hemispheres converge
What happens to land and ocean in summer months?
land is warmer than the oceanlow pressures develop global high pressure belt
What happens to air in the summer?
moves away and deflects right.
What happens to land and ocean during winter months?
land is colder than the ocean.high pressure zones separate low pressure zones over water
How does air move during winter months
Pulls in and deflects right
How does air move when theres counterclockwise roation at low pressure?
Moves in and deflects right
What are modern scale circulations?
rising air over land replaced by warm moist airCarried on southwest winds from Indian oceanOffshore airflow causes condensation
What is rain shadow?
Mountains deflect wind upward:coolsriding on windward side of mountain; heavy precipitationDescending air on leeward side: low precipitation
What is an example of a small scale circulation pattern?
land sea breezes
What are hurricanes?
tropical cyclonic storm wind speeds of 73 mph
When do hurricanes occur?
tropical oceans when surface water temperature exceeds 28 celcius
What is a storm surge?
elevation of sea surface beneath the center of a storm caused by low intense pressure
What is a storm tide?
**max. sea surface elevation **when storm surge collides with high tide
What is ENSO?
periods of climate conditions centered in tropical pacific oceans.
What is the frequency of ENSO?
3-7 years
How long does ENSO lasts?
lasts 1 year
What does ENSO cause?
disruptions to normal atmosphere/ ocean interactions
What is a typical system?
movement of water from East to West.deep water upwells to replace it keeping oceans cool along coast of South America
What is Southern Oscillation?
periodic reversal of low and high pressure areas in southern pacific
What happens to surface pressure in Indonesia?
low pressure becomes high
What happens to surface pressure in the pacific zone?
High pressure becomes low
What is El Nino?
wind driven reversal in the ocean current resulting in warm water moving toward America
What is El nina?
condition of colder than normal surface waters in the tropical pacific
What are consequences of El Nino?
decreased intensities of hurricanes in the Atlantic because jet stream is diverted South
What are global consequences of El Nino?
Northern USA has warmer wintersDry areas of Peru and Ecuador have high rainfallIndonesia/Austrailia/Phillipines have drought
What is MEI
Multivariate ENSO Index
How is MEI calculated?
from measurements of sea temperatures, level-pressure, and surface air temperatures to the Eastwest and North-south velocity of components of the trade winds and total amount of cloudiness
Where do currents occur?
Surface ocean= top 100m=10%Deep Ocean=below 100m=90%
What is the driving force of currents?
Wind
What happens during the Elkman Spiral?
water is deflected by coriolis effectEarth rotates further out from underwater appears to be deflected to a greater degree than overlying air
What is the Elkman Spiral?
Water is deflected to right in North hemisphere and left in Southern Hemisphere.
How is the North Equatorial current formed?
Northeast trade winds push water toward the west.
How is the North Pacific current formed
by westerlies moving east to west
How is the California and Kuroshio Current formed?
water flows towards areas where water has been removed
What currents make the Noth Pacifc Gyre?
North Equatorial Current, North Pacific Current, California,Kuroshio current
What is the principle of the continuity of flow?
A fluid flows so the next flux of liquid in or out of a given volume within the fluid is 0
What forms the Antarctic Circumpolar Current?
Strong Westerlies
Where does the Antarctic Circumpolar Current flow?
completly around the globe without interuption
What does the Antarctic Circumpolar current provide?
mechanism of sharing and mixing among oceans
How are fronts formed?
by Ekman wind convergence which channels the current between them
What fronts are part of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current?
-Subtropical front-Subantarctic front-Polar/Antarctic front
How is the speed of wind compared to the speed of currents?
currents are 1/100 speed of wind
How to measure volume of water transported by currents?
1SV=1 million cubic meters per second
Geostrophic Flow?
horizontal flow of water occuring when there is a balance of coriolis and gravitational forces acting on water
What is Western Intensification?
Increase in speed of geostrophic currents along the Western boundary of an Ocean Basin
What are factors causing Western Intensification?
- Eastward turning of the Earth2. Increase of coriolis effect with latitude3. Changing direction of tradewinds and westerlies4. Friction between land masses and ocean water currents
How do western currents compare to Eastern currents?
Western currents:Fast flowing, narrowEastern Currents: Slow, wide
What are examples of western currents?
Gulf StreamKuroshio current
What are examples of Eastern currents?
Canary currentCalifornia current
What are permanent wind driven zones?
5 major convergent zones3 major divergence zones-related to ocean gyres and geostrophic currents-lower productivity in downwelling areas
What are meanders?
Oscillations and waves along boundary of current
What are eddies?
Pockets of water moving in a circular motion.
What are mesoscale eddies?
10-500km in diameter and persist for day-month timescales
What do eddies do?
Stir the ocean until they dissipate due to fluid friction, loosing chemical and thermal energyand energy of motion to turbulence
How do eddies cause verdical transport in low pressure North hemisphere?
Elkman transport of water away from the center to upwelling and nutrients.(convergence, counterclockwise)
How do eddies cause verdical transport in high pressure North hemisphere?
Elkman transport of water foward leads to downwelling(divergence, clockwise)
What are Seasonal wind driven zones?
Seasonal changes in wind pattern affect Ekman transport
winds blowing along coastlines can generate…
Ekman transport of water foward or away from the coast
What are primary drivers of deep-water?
Temperature, and salinity
What is thermohaline circulation?
vertical circulation caused by changes in density that are driven by variations in temperature and salinity.
What is a mixing line?
when two water types having the same density, but different values of salinity and temperature, are mixed, they form a new water type that lies on a mixing line.
What are water masses?
large volume of water that has the same salinity and temperature.
How are water masses identified?
by similar patterns of temperature and salinity from surface to depth
What are the mechanisms of internal mixing of ocean layers
winds, tidea, eddies, turbulent flow
What are the characteristics of layered oceans?
salinity, temperature, and density at the surface.
What does water density controls?
the depth to which the water sinks
What does sinking water do?
slowly mixes with adjacent layers eventually rises at another location.
How do winds impact internal mixing?
drive waves and currents that supply energy for mixing in shallow water
How do tides impact internal mixing?
create currents at all depths stirring together water.
How do eddies impact internal mixing?
form at boundaries of currents that homogenize deeper water masses.
How do tides impact internal mixing?
occurs when speed of a fluid at a point is continuously undergoing changes in magnitude and direction such that chaotic patterns emerge.
What are the layers in the Atlantic Ocean?
North Atlantic Deep WaterAntarctic Bottom WaterMediterranean IntermediateAntarctic Intermediate WaterSouth Atlantic Surface Water
How is North Atlantic Deep Water formed?
Surface water from arctic moves south, while surface water from low latitudes moves north along the coast of North America and then east across the North Atlantic.
How does Sea Ice form in the North Atlantic?
Downwelling of dense, salty water starts thermohaline circulation.
How is the Mediterranean Intermediate Water formed?
Water from the Mediterranean leaves the straight of Gibralter and mixes with NADW forming an intermediate layer.
How is the Arctic Intermediate Water formed?
Surface current convergence at 40°S forms less dense, warmer surface water between Equator and Antarctic. Remains above NADW and forms intermediate layer.
How is the South Atlantic Surface Water formed?
Divergence zone at 60°S brings mixed NADW & Antarctic Intermediate water to surface to form South Atlantic Surface water which moves northward.
How is Antarctic Bottom Water formed?
Formed along Antarctica. Is cold and salty from ice formation. It sinks below NADW but only up western side of Atlantic.
How fast is mixing are water masses in the Pacific?
Very slow
What is an estuary?
semi-isolated portion of ocean that is diluted by freshwater drainage from land.
What is Stratification?
Waters of different densities will create interacting layers in estuaries.
What is the circulation pattern of a partially mixed estuary?
Deep water moves** farther inward** on the rising tide than it moves seaward on the falling tide.
A parcel of deep water is moved______on each tidal cycle
progressively fartherinward
What is water budget?
balance between rates of water lostand water gained in an area
What is salt budget?
balance between rates of salt lost andsalt gained in a body of water
What are waves?
regularly **occuring transport **of energy
What are waves molecularly?
energy moving through a substance
What is wave motion?
movement of **energy isn’t **the **same as movement of particles of the substance** the wave moves through
What type of waves are water waves?
progressive waves
What are progressive waves?
energy is moving from a specific point A topoint B.
How do progressive waves move?
energy moves forwardacross the surface of the ocean horizontally
What are genrating forces?
disturbing force that** createsa water wave**
What are examples of generating forces?
TideWindEarthquakesLow pressure systemsDisplacements
What are restoring forces?
return distrubted **water to equilibrium
What is a resotring force for small waves?
Surface tension
What is a resotring force for small waves?
Gravity
What are longitudinal waves?
-moves due to prgression-particles **oscilate back **and forth-particle displacement parallel to direction of **wave
What are transverse waves?
energy moves up and downparticle displacement 1 to direction
What are water waves?
transverse and** longitudinalparticles **are clockwise
What are rayleigh waves?
transverse and** longitudinal** waves are elliptical
What are forced waves?
generated by continuously acting force and move fast
What are free waves?
wave** moves** at normal speed and is **controlled by period and wavelength** **after **it is generated by a force
What is wave period?
time it takes 2 crests to pass 1 point
What is wave frequency?
number of times a crest passes 1point over a given amount of time
What are capilary waves?
small waves whose primaryrestoring force is surface tension
What are gravity waves?
larger waves whose primaryrestoring force is gravity
What are deep water waves?
The depth of the ocean is bigger than **half **of the wavelength
What are intermediate waters?
The depth of the** ocean** is deeper than 1/20 but** shallower** than **1/2 **the wavelength
What are shallow water waves?
depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelength
What are breaking shallow water?
depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelengthwave** height** : wavelength bigger than 1:7
What is an orbit?
path followed by water particles **affected **by a wave’s energy
Where do deep water waves occur?
occur in** water** deeper thanhalf the wavelength of the waves
Where is less energy of motion found?
each succeeding depth
When the diameter of orbits decreases, the depth _____
increases
When is the obrbital motion almost equal to zero?
depths equal to **one-half **thewavelength,
What is the interaction of intermediate waves?
wave and the **bottom will begin toaffect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles
What is the interation in shallow water waves?
**wave **and the bottom will begin to **affect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles
What is the orbital motion of shallow waves?
elliptical
How do elliptical water waves interact?
become flatter with depth until, at the** sea floor,** **only **a back-and-forth oscillatory motion remains
What happens when the wave “feels bottom”?
slows, and the accompanying** reduction** in the wavelength results in **increasedheight and steepness as the wave’s energy is condensed in asmaller** water volume.
How do we calculate the steepness of the wave?
height/wavelength(h/L)
What happens to hight and wavelength when steepness increases?
Height IncreasesWavelength decreases
What are breakers?
**shallow **water waves that become too steep at surface so they collapse
How do breakers work?
particles at the wave’s crest move faster **toward **the shore resulting in the **curling **of the crest and the eventual breaking of the wave
What happens if the wave steepness exceeds 1:7?
wave becomes** too steep **and the wave breaks
What are the types of breaker waves?
SpillingPlungingSurging
What are spilling breakers?
-lasts long and** continually breaking** and slowly loosing energy across the surf zone-Most common-Flat bottom
What are plunging breakers?
-entire wave front steepens, curls and **collapses, relesing energy all at once.-Occurs** in** steep bottoms**
What are surging?
-Don’t break because it never reaches a critical wave **steepness.(H/L)=1:7-diminishes** in size and** looses momentum** as waterrushes up beach face-occurs in** steep bottoms**
What are stokes drift?
mass** transport** of water forward inthe direction of wave energy** movement.**
How do stoke drifts occur?
Negligible in open oceanSlow movement against coast causes nearshorecurrents
What is the general speed of a wave equation?
Celerity(Speed)=wavelength/time
What happens to wavelgth as celerity is reduced
Wavelength is shortened
What are shallow wave speed infuenced by?
influenced more by** depth**than wavelength
What are deep water waves influecnced by?
influenced by wavelength than depth
What is dispersion?
Sorting of free waves as they move because** long period waves travel faster** than short period waves in deep water.
What is deep water group speed?
when a groupof waves travels if generated by the same source indeep water
What is deepwater group speed equation?
Group wave speed=individual wave speed/2
What is the shallow water speed equation?
celerity=3.13 * Sqare root of depth
What is the deep water speed equation?
celerity=1.56*period
What is gravitational acceleration?
9.81
What happens to the old wave when a new wave is created?
Outer-most wave’s energy is **lost **in **advancing thewave form** into undisturbed water
What are deep wave interactions?
when wave groupsmeet they pass through **each other** and** continue**
What is constructive interference?
if crests coincide, they reinforce each other.
What is destructive interference?
if crests go against each other, they cancel each other
What is Wind Generated Wave Height?
controlled by speed,duration and fetch.
What latitude is best for big waves?
40-50 degrees
When is there large fetch?
When there are no landmasses
What are the traits of westerlies in 40-50 degree latitude?
continuous and strong
What are episodic waves?
abnormally highwave that is unrelated to local storm conditions
How can modeling rouge waves contribute to practical applications?
They can** help **in establishment of mooring systems that can stablilize offshore platforms
What is a tsunami?
long period sea wave that is **producedby an earthquake, volcanic eruption, sedimentslide or faulting**
How long are tsunami wavelengths?
very long100-200 km60-120 miles
How long are tsunami periods?
long(10-20 minutes)
What type of wave are tsunamis?
**shallow water **waves. Because depth is less than one-twentieth the wavelength
What are the 3 stages of tsunamis?
GenerationPropogagnationInundation
What is generation?
The **point **of **source **of energy for tsunamis?
what is propagation?
movement of tsunami waves through space
What is Inundation?
**flooding **of coastal systems
What is the equation to calculate the celerity of a tsunami?
celerity=3.13* squareroot of depth
What is NOAA’S project DART?
Deep Ocean assesment and reporting of tsunamis
What are internal waves?
Waves created below the ocean’s surface at the** boundary between 2 destiny layers**
What are sources of internal waves?
Low pressure systems depress pycnocline and whenstorm moves away will oscillate until reachingequilibrium.* **Speed **of currents above or **below pycnoclinechanges quickly.* Bathymetric changes.
Wat are standing waves?
surface water oscillates verticallybetween fixed points called nodes but there is noprogression.
What happens to standing waves with 2 nodes?
A progressive wave directly reflected back on itself produces astanding wave, because the two waves—original and reflected—are moving at the same speed but in opposite directions.
What do standing properties depend on?
geometryof the basin that the wave is in.
What are examples of closed basins?
-teacup-lake-ocean basin
What is the relationship between length of the basin and period?
when the length of the basin isincreased the period of the wave is increased
What is the relationship between depth of the basin and period?
when the depth of the water isincreased the period is decreased
Can standing waves occur in basins?
Yes, but the formula changes and the node is usually located at the opening of the basin to open water.
What are examples of energy from waves?
(1) using the changing level of the water to lift an object,which can then do useful work because of its potential energy.(2) using the orbital motion ofthe water particles or thechanging tilt of the sea surfaceto rock an object to and fro.(3) using rising water tocompress air or water in achamber
What are tides?
rise and **fall **of the water around the edge of the land
How are tides generated?
gravatational attraction and centrifugal attraction between Earth, Sun and moon
What waves are tides?
standing waves
How are standing waves created?
progressive wave **directly reflected **back on itself produces a **standing **wave.
Why are standing waves developed?
2 waves (original and reflected) are moving at** same speed** but different directions
What is the relationship between wave height and tidal range?
they are** equal** to each other
What tide does the crest indicate?
high tide
What tide does the trough indicate?
Low tide
Why are tides considered shallow waters?
wavelength is 1/2 the** circumfrence **of earth but the depth is less than 1/20 the wavelength?
What is flow?
When tides come in
What is ebb?
When the tide goes out
What is the relationship between the average distance between the moon and Earth?
their relationship is constant
How does the relationship in distance of moon and Earth stay constant?
Gravity and Inertia
What is gravity?
masses are attracted to one another
What is inertia?
tendency of **objects **to continue moving in a straight line
What parts of gravitational and centrifugal forces are constant?
inertia is constant, but the influence of gravity isn’t
What is the relationship between gravity force and inertia on the moon side?
gravity is more than** inertia**
What is the relationship between gravity force and inertia on the sun side?
Inertia is more than gravity
What are the assumptions of the equilibrium model?
- Earth is covered in H202. Tide **waves **are progressive3. **Water **is in **equilibrium **with generating forces
How long is Lunar orbit?
about 27 days
What happens when a rotating moon causes a tidal day?
the moon moves while Earth rotates
How long is a full tidal cycle?
24 hours and 50 minutes for full tidal cycle
What is a sun tide?
Sun** produces** its **own tidal **wave
How long does it take for Earth to revolve on its axis with respect to the Sun?
about 24 hours
How do tides in sun tides produced by the Moon continuously?
**eastward **relative **to **the tide wave **produced **by the Sun
What is a spring tide?
**tides **are **higher **than the moon and is aligned with the sun
What are neap tides?
tides are **lower **moon and sun are perpendicular
What is the tidal range?
the difference height between consecutive high and low waters
What is the tidal wave amplitude?
1/2 of the tidal range?
What is a king tide?
the greatest tidal effect of a year.
How are king tides created?
when the orbits and **alignment **of theEarth, moon, and sun combine
What is declination?
Angle where the moon or sun orbits are offset from the equator due to elliptical orbital paths and** tilt **of the Earth
What determines the number of magnitude of tides?
location of Earth due to declination
What are tidal patterns?
tides behave differently in different places.
What is a diurnal tide?
1 high water and 1 low water each tidal day
What is a semi-dirurnal tide?
**two high waters **and **twolow waters **each tidal day.
How long is a semi dururnal tidal period?
12hours and 25minutes
How long is a diurnal tide period?
24 hours and 50 minutes
What is a mixed semi-diurnal tide?
**tides **reach different heights and low tides drop to different levels
What influences tidal range?
**constructive **and **destructive **wave interference
What does tidal theory doesn’t explain?
Earth turns eastward faster than tide moves freelywestward.Friction displaces tide crest to the **east of expected positionunder moon**
What are standing rotary waves?
tide that **results **in standing wave **moving **around central node of a basin
What does tidal theory not explain (2)?
- Continents separate the oceans, the tide wave isdiscontinuous. Wave is contained within the ocean basins andoscillates in the basin as a standing wave. Reflected from continents.* Refracted by changes in water depth.* Diffracted as it passes through gaps/channels.
How do tides and currents turn in the North Hemisphere?
current:clockwisetide:counterclockwise
How do tides and currents turn in the South Hemisphere?
currents: counterclockwisetide:clockwise
What happens during the horizontal component of motion?
Because the horizontal time is long (0.5period) Coriolis becomes important. NH deflectedRight and SH deflected left. Current has clockwiserotation in NH and counter in SH.
Wat is the angle of declination?
28.5
