Waves

Question 1

What are waves?

Answer 1

regularly **occuring transport **of energy

Question 2

What are waves molecularly?

Answer 2

energy moving through a substance

Question 3

What is wave motion?

Answer 3

movement of **energy isn’t **the **same as movement of particles of the substance** the wave moves through

Question 4

What are longitudinal waves?

Question 5

What type of waves are water waves?

Answer 5

progressive waves

Question 6

What are progressive waves?

Answer 6

energy is moving from a specific point A to
point B.

Question 7

How do progressive waves move?

Answer 7

energy moves forward
across the surface of the ocean horizontally

Question 8

What are genrating forces?

Answer 8

disturbing force that** creates**
a water** wave**

Question 9

What are examples of generating forces?

Answer 9

Tide
Wind
Earthquakes
Low pressure systems
Displacements

Question 10

What are restoring forces?

Answer 10

return distrubted **water to equilibrium

Question 11

What is a resotring force for small waves?

Answer 11

Surface tension

Question 12

What is a resotring force for small waves?

Answer 12

Gravity

Question 13

What are longitudinal waves?

Answer 13

-moves due to prgression
-particles **oscilate back **and forth
-particle displacement parallel to direction of **wave

Question 14

What are transverse waves?

Answer 14

energy moves up and down
particle displacement 1 to direction

Question 15

What are water waves?

Answer 15

transverse and** longitudina**l
**particles **are clockwise

Question 16

What are rayleigh waves?

Answer 16

transverse and** longitudinal** waves are elliptical

Question 17

What are forced waves?

Answer 17

generated by continuously acting force and move fast

Question 18

What are free waves?

Answer 18

wave** moves** at normal speed and is **controlled by period and wavelength** **after **it is generated by a force

Question 19

What is wave period?

Answer 19

time it takes 2 crests to pass 1 point

Question 20

What is wave frequency?

Answer 20

number of times a crest passes 1
point over a given amount of time

Question 21

What are capilary waves?

Answer 21

small waves whose primary
restoring force is surface tension

Question 22

What are gravity waves?

Answer 22

larger waves whose primary
restoring force is gravity

Question 23

What are deep water waves?

Answer 23

The depth of the ocean is bigger than **half **of the wavelength

Question 24

What are intermediate waters?

Answer 24

The depth of the** ocean** is deeper than 1/20 but** shallower** than **1/2 **the wavelength

Question 25

What are shallow water waves?

Answer 25

depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelength

Question 26

What are breaking shallow water?

Answer 26

depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelength
wave** height** : wavelength bigger than 1:7

Question 27

What is an orbit?

Answer 27

path followed by water particles **affected **by a wave’s energy

Question 28

Where do deep water waves occur?

Answer 28

occur in** water** **deeper **than
half the wavelength of the waves

Question 29

Where is less energy of motion found?

Answer 29

each succeeding depth

Question 30

When the diameter of orbits decreases, the depth _____

Answer 30

increases

Question 31

When is the obrbital motion almost equal to zero?

Answer 31

depths **equal **to **one-half **the
wavelength,

Question 32

What is the interaction of intermediate waves?

Answer 32

**wave **and the bottom will begin to
**affect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles

Question 33

What is the interation in shallow water waves?

Answer 33

**wave **and the bottom will begin to **affect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles

Question 34

What is the orbital motion of shallow waves?

Answer 34

elliptical

Question 35

How do elliptical water waves interact?

Answer 35

become flatter with depth until, at the** sea floor,** **only **a back-
and-forth oscillatory motion remains