Waves Flashcards
What are waves?
regularly **occuring transport **of energy
What are waves molecularly?
energy moving through a substance
What is wave motion?
movement of **energy isn’t **the **same as movement of particles of the substance** the wave moves through
What are longitudinal waves?
What type of waves are water waves?
progressive waves
What are progressive waves?
energy is moving from a specific point A to
point B.
How do progressive waves move?
energy moves forward
across the surface of the ocean horizontally
What are genrating forces?
disturbing force that** creates**
a water** wave**
What are examples of generating forces?
Tide
Wind
Earthquakes
Low pressure systems
Displacements
What are restoring forces?
return distrubted **water to equilibrium
What is a resotring force for small waves?
Surface tension
What is a resotring force for small waves?
Gravity
What are longitudinal waves?
-moves due to prgression
-particles **oscilate back **and forth
-particle displacement parallel to direction of **wave
What are transverse waves?
energy moves up and down
particle displacement 1 to direction
What are water waves?
transverse and** longitudina**l
**particles **are clockwise
What are rayleigh waves?
transverse and** longitudinal** waves are elliptical
What are forced waves?
generated by continuously acting force and move fast
What are free waves?
wave** moves** at normal speed and is **controlled by period and wavelength** **after **it is generated by a force
What is wave period?
time it takes 2 crests to pass 1 point
What is wave frequency?
number of times a crest passes 1
point over a given amount of time
What are capilary waves?
small waves whose primary
restoring force is surface tension
What are gravity waves?
larger waves whose primary
restoring force is gravity
What are deep water waves?
The depth of the ocean is bigger than **half **of the wavelength
What are intermediate waters?
The depth of the** ocean** is deeper than 1/20 but** shallower** than **1/2 **the wavelength
What are shallow water waves?
depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelength
What are breaking shallow water?
depth of the** ocean** is** less** than 1/20 the wavelength
wave** height** : wavelength bigger than 1:7
What is an orbit?
path followed by water particles **affected **by a wave’s energy
Where do deep water waves occur?
occur in** water** **deeper **than
half the wavelength of the waves
Where is less energy of motion found?
each succeeding depth
When the diameter of orbits decreases, the depth _____
increases
When is the obrbital motion almost equal to zero?
depths **equal **to **one-half **the
wavelength,
What is the interaction of intermediate waves?
**wave **and the bottom will begin to
**affect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles
What is the interation in shallow water waves?
**wave **and the bottom will begin to **affect **the shape of the orbits made by the water particles
What is the orbital motion of shallow waves?
elliptical
How do elliptical water waves interact?
become flatter with depth until, at the** sea floor,** **only **a back-
and-forth oscillatory motion remains
