MA's Flashcards
What does IMA stand for?
Ideal Mechanical Advantage
What does AMA stand for?
Actual Mechanical Advantage
If the rope used in the pulley system is tied to the ANCHOR, the IMA is EVEN or ODD?
Even
If the rope used in a simple pulley system is tied to the LOAD, is the IMA EVEN or ODD?
Odd
If the IMA is EVEN, is the pulley system integral or ganged on?
Ganged on
If the IMA is ODD, is the pulley system integral or ganged on?
Both; Example: 5:1 ganged on or 5:1 integral.
When is a haul slacker needed?
For a ganged on system
What is the maximum number of haulers you can have on a system?
(# of haulers) x (IMA) = less than or equal to 18
Which definitions does a Complex Pulley System meet? Simple or Compound
Neither
What are the Pros of a ganged on system?
Passing a knot is easier
Can be pre-built
What are the Cons of a ganged on system?
A haul slacker is needed
More gear resources
What are the Pros of a integral system?
Less gear resources
No haul slacker
Define a Simple MA
MA system with a single haul connection between the load and the haul team with 1 throw. All pulleys that move do so at the same speed and direction as the load
Define a Compound MA
A simple MA system pulling on the haul line of another simple MA with at least 2 throws. Some traveling pulleys move at different speeds than the load
Define a Complex MA
An MA system that Is neither a simple nor a compound system – 5:1 California
True or false: typically, lowering systems are safer than raising systems?
True, because you are cooperating with gravity (Rope rescue course, pg 87)
Define ideal load weight
Weight of the load in a static state
Define practical load weight (PLW)
The actual weight of the load, plus the friction coefficient. A 450 pound load with 20 feet of rope drag can increase to 1100 pounds (RRC, pg 87). You can control rope drag with a high directional
During a raise, a 90 degree turn over a rock will add how many times the weight at the edge?
3x (RRC, pg 92)
What is the formula to determine the what percentage each anchor has?
Assuming a 100 lb load and a 60 degree angle:
1/2 the load / cos(.5 angle)
50/cos(30) = about 57.7%
What is the force vector formula for a directional pulley anchor? Need to finish
Force vector =
A haul prussik typically slips at how many pounds?
800 to 1200 pounds
The IMA is the ratio between..
The distance the load moves and the distances the haul team moves
What is the definition of a piggyback system?
A compound MA that’s made up of two or more identical simple MAs
What is the definition of a throw?
The available distance between maximum pulley system extension and two block (RRC, pg 96). In the diagram it’s basically the distance between the tandem prussiks close to the anchor and the prusik closest to the load. Simple pulley systems have one throw, compounds have a minimum of two
What are the pros and cons of a simple MA?
Pros: easy to remember and perform, have long throws and are easily modified if more MA is needed
Cons: typically have more friction, use more rope, and require more equipment in larger MAs [RRC pg 97)
If you’re out of pulleys and have to use a carabiner, where in the system should you put it?
Closer to the load, further from the haulers
MA Math Formulas
Anchor Loads = T x AMA(r)
AMA(r) = AMA relative at the anchor
T = Rescue Load / AMA