Anchors

Question 1

What should you do before using a anchor?

Answer 1

Before using an anchor point test it (e.g., kick it, pull it, push it, shake it, try to move it, etc.), to make sure it is not dead and that it is well rooted with at least a 3 inch diameter base (tree), or that it does not move, does not flake off pieces, is not cracked/broken, is well embedded in the soil, and that it is large enough to manage the expected load (rock).

Question 2

What does SERENE stand for?

Answer 2

Strong, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, Non-Extending

Question 3

What does ERNEST stand for

Answer 3

Equalized, Redundant, No Extension, Secure/Solid, Timely

Question 4

How much can a bomb-proof anchor support?

Answer 4

Can support 10 times the load and can hold distinct, separate main and belay lines.

Question 5

Anchors should NEVER be more than how many degrees apart from each other?

Answer 5

90 degrees

Question 6

Two anchors 25° apart, each anchor has what % of load?

Answer 6

51%

Question 7

Two anchors 45° apart, each anchor has what % of load?

Answer 7

54%

Question 8

Two anchors 60° apart, each anchor has what % of load?

Answer 8

58%

Question 9

Two anchors 90° apart, each anchor has what % of load?

Answer 9

71%

Question 10

Two anchors 120° apart, each anchor has what % of load?

Answer 10

100%

Question 11

Two anchors 175° apart, each anchor has what % of load?

Answer 11

11x

Question 12

When would you use a high strength Anchor

Answer 12

When maximum strength of the rope is needed (i.e. highline operations) as this anchor is 100% efficient.

The high strength anchor is made by wrapping the rope enough times around a “bombproof” anchor to take the tension off the knot on the last wrap. The smaller the diameter of the anchor the more wraps of the rope are needed. Always use a minimum of at least 3 wraps.

Question 13

Can a rope be substituted for webbing in a W3P2 anchor?

Answer 13

Yes; Rope may be used instead of webbing when wrapping very large anchors, i.e. a boulder ten feet in diameter.

Question 14

What are the 10 anchors, including snow and ice?

Answer 14

1. Wrap 3, Pull 2 Anchor
2. Wrap 3, Pull 2 Interwoven
3. 3:1 Non-Working Back-Tie Anchor System
4. Voodoo
5. LOAD SHARING - Fixed
6. LOAD DISTRIBUTING - self equalizing
7. Pickets
8. Bollard
9. Snow Fluke
10. High Strength

Question 15

What angle should a picket be set at?

Answer 15

25° angle from the surface

Question 16

What type of variables can affect a bollard?

Answer 16

Size, snow pack (want hard packed or “mash potatoes”), rope diameter, number of wraps.

Question 17

What type of equipment should you use to reinforce the sides of a bollard?

Answer 17

All available equipment; pickets, ice axes, shovels, trekking poles, etc

Question 18

What is the definition of a knot?

Answer 18

The standard definition of a knot is a rope intertwined with itself.

*Chapter 4

Question 19

What is the definition of a bend?

Answer 19

A bend is the intertwining of two ends of rope.

*Chapter 4

Question 20

What is the definition of a hitch?

Answer 20

A hitch is a knot that is dependent on a host object for maintaining its form and function