Lecture 15: Coastal Processes II

Question 1

4 zones that make up the nearshore

Answer 1

Shoaling, Breaker, Surf, Swash

Question 2

3 behaviours of waves

Answer 2

Refraction, reflection, diffraction

Question 3

Rip currents

Answer 3

Caused by stokes drift and water needs to escape back into ocean; it originates in surf zone and can extend back into breaker zone

Question 4

Longshore currents

Answer 4

Water moves parallel to shoreline; angled waves

Question 5

Groynes

Answer 5

Used to stop longshore currents

Question 6

Spit

Answer 6

Elongated sandy deposits of shoreline due to longshore currents

Question 7

Baymouth bars

Answer 7

Connecting spits from 2 sides creating a bay

Question 8

Tombolo

Answer 8

Connection between island and land by longshore current

Question 9

Tides

Answer 9

Rise and fall of sea level, typically x2 a day and driven by the gravitational pull of sun and moon

Question 10

Types of tides

Answer 10

Diurnal, semi-diurnal and mixed

Question 11

Spring tides

Answer 11

Strongest tides due to force of both moon and sun

Question 12

Neap tides

Answer 12

Lowest tides due to moon and sun at right angle to eachother

Question 13

Tidal ranges

Answer 13

Macro (4m+), Meso (2-4m), Micro (<2m)

Question 14

Types of tidal currents

Answer 14

Flood and ebb

Question 15

Tidal bore

Answer 15

Wave in front of flood current