KEY TERMS - the coastal zone Flashcards
coast
the place where the land meets the sea
weathering
the break down of rocks on the earths surface by the action of rainwater, extreme temperatures, and biological activity
wave
a body of water moving towards the coastline at a higher than average level
trough
the distance between 2 waves
wavelength
the distance between 2 peaks
swash
the sand and water moving up the beach
backwash
water going back to the sea at 90degrees
prevailing wind
the strongest and most common wind direction
fetch
the distance the wind has caused the wave to travel
erosion
the break down and removal of rock
attrition
material carried by the waves bump into each other and so are smoothed and broken down into smaller particles - does not erode the cliff
hydraulic action
this process involves the force of the water against the coast. the waves enters cracks in the coastline and compresses the air within the crack. when the wave retreats the air in the crack expands causing a minor explosion
solution
this is chemical action of the sea water. the acids in the sea water slowly dissolve rocks on the coast
abrasion
this process is when the coats is worn down by material carried by the waves. waved ‘throw’ these particles against the rock, sometimes at high velocity
headland
areas of resistant rock which protrude from the coastline
bay
areas of less resistant rock (soft rock) between 2 headlands which is eroded quickly
solution
dissolved rock in the sea is carried along. the load is not visable
suspention
small particles are carried in the water, it can make the water appear cloudy
saltation
load is bounced/hopped along the sea bed. particles are too heavy to be suspended
traction
pebbles and larger sediment are rolled along the sea bed
long shore drift
the transportation of sediment along the stretch of coastline caused by waves approaching the beach at an angle
beach
the gentle sloping area of land between the high and low water marks. they can act as a natural coastal defence
wave refraction
as waves approach the coast there energy is concentrated at the headlands, causing the wave to bend
spit
a finger of land made of sand and shingle that extends into the sea from the coastline