Ingredients,chemistry,skin care products and selection Flashcards
Berry rich in antioxidants, vitamins A,B,C, and E; protects,replenishes; helps heal damaged skin
Açaí berry
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend
Emulsifiers
As defined by the U.S. food and drug administration(FDA): articles that are intended to be rubbed,poured,sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing,beautifying,promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance
Cosmetics
Products with chemical agents used to dissolve dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix,or “ glue”, that holds them together ( desmosomes)
Chemical exfoliants
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated,non oily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration,or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service
Aromatherapy
Mineral physical sunscreen ingredient that reflects UVA and UVB rays; also used to protect,soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent,antiseptic, and anti microbial
Zinc oxide
A product that is labeled vegan should not contain any animal ingredients or animal by products
Vegan
Extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or,in higher concentrations, an astringent
Witch hazel
Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective
Vehicles
Mixable with water
Water soluble
Properties include enhancing the penetrative abilities of other substances; anti inflammatory,antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin
Urea
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness
Seaweed
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules ( monomers) into long chain like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate
Polymers
All purpose preservative active against bacteria,mold, and yeast. Probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies
Quaternium 15
Abbreviated SPF; indicates the ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema,the visible sign of sun damage; the SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure
Sun protection factor
Products formulated to have no smell; because most ingredients in a formulation do have an odor,more ingredients have to be added to neutralize the smell
Unscented
Plasticizers used in skin care formulas to moisturize and soften skin, and to dissolve or blend ingredients
Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism; hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin
Polyglucans
Also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skins surface
Toners
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; health and anti aging benefits
Plant stem cells
Reduces the activity of oil glands and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry,dead cells; commonly used in acne products
Sulfur
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; they kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling
Preservatives
Natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch,willow bark, and wintergreen
Salicylic acid
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions
Serums
Baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent,neutralizer, and pH adjuster
Sodium bicarbonate
Emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources
Petrolatum
Acids or alkalis (bases) used adjust the pH of products
PH adjusters
Derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient
Squalane
Soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties
Tea tree oil
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation
Titanium dioxide
One of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic,pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against diverse organisms
Parabens
Also known as pack or masque; concentrated treatment product often composed of herbs,vitamins, minerals clay,moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse,exfoliate, tighten,tone,hydrate, and nourish and treat the skin
Mask
One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic
Methylparaben
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts,cell metabolism,collagen; improve skin’s firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides
Peptides
Mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin
Paraffin wax masks
Closed lipid bilateral spheres that encapsulate ingredients,target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release
Liposomes
“Smell” receptors in the nose that communicate with parts of the brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories
Olfactory nerve
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin
Performance ingredients
Also known as thermal masks or thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster like ingredient
Modelage masks
Derived from the oil palm tree; one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient
Palm oil
Term used to describe natural sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals
Organic
Colors that are organic,meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments
Noncertified colors
Terms often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources
Natural,all natural
Fats or fat like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin
Lipids
Anti- irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation
Licorice
Emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources
Liquid paraffin
Coats the skin and reduces friction; mineral oil is a lubricant
Lubricant
Products used as a physical method of polishing dead cells off the skin
Mechanical exfoliants
Lubricant derived from petroleum
Mineral oil
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin
Moisturizers
Compatible with oil
Oil soluble
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels
Papaya
Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread,give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion,cream, or gel; preservatives are also functional ingredients
Functional ingredients
Formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet,colorless,oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams
Glycerin
This term indicates that no additional ingredients have been added to a product to specifically provide a fragrance; however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent
Fragrance free
Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal,stimulate,soothe, and moisturize
Herbs
Toners,skin freshening lotions, and liquids applied after cleansing to soothe and hydrate
Fresheners
Skin conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing
Glycoproteins
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agents; antibacterial, anti inflammatory, skin brightening, and a stimulant
Green tea
Substances from plants such as chamomile,aloe,plant stem cells, and botanical oils that help to heal the skin
Healing botanicals
Ingredients that attract water; humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dehydration
Humectants
Oil widely used in cosmetics;extracted from the bean like seeds of a desert shrub; used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer
Jojoba
Emollient with moisturizing properties; also,an emulsifier with high water absorption
Lanolin
Antiallergenic,anti inflammatory,antiseptic,antibacterial,balancing,energizing,soothing, and healing
Lavender
Skin brightening agent
Kojic acid
Also known as roll off mask; enzyme exfoliating makes that are rubbed off the skin
Gommage
Give products their scent
Fragrances
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols
Fatty esters
Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
Fatty alcohols
Derived from hemp seed,very light botanical oil used as an emollient
Hemp seed oil
Ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skins surface
Hydrophilic agents
Refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions
Hypoallergenic
Agent that causes exfoliation,or sloughing, of skin cells
Keratolytic
Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material
Lakes
Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche
Essential oils
Term used to describe high quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance
Cosmeceutical
Oil absorbing purifying masks made with a clay base( such as kaolin or bentonite) that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten
Clay masks
Term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals
Cruelty free
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats
Fatty acids
Derived from coconut,one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient
Coconut oil
Provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface
Enzymes (for exfoliations)
A chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative
Chelating agents
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells
Coenzyme Q10
Substances such as vegetable,pigment,or mineral dyes that give products color
Color agents
Soap or detergent that cleans the skin
Cleanser
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis
Delivery systems
Type of surfactant used as cleanser in skin cleansing products
Detergents
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricant,moisturize, and prevent water loss
Emollients
Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin
Exfoliants
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin
Exfoliation
Plant extract with calming and soothing properties
Chamomile
Often seaweed based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and dry to form a rubberized texture
Alginate
Abbreviated AHAH; derived naturally from various plant sources and from milk; used for improving signs of aging,dry skin, and an uneven skin tone
Alpha hydroxy acids
Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes,lotions, and astringents; specially denatured(SD) alcohol is a mixture of ethanol with a denaturing agent
Alcohol
Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti inflammatory and soothing properties
Azulene
Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C ( drug and cosmetic)
Certified colors
Seaweed derivatives used as thickening agents,water binding agents, and antioxidants also nourishes the skin with vitamins and minerals
Algae
Small, sealed vial containing a single application of highly concentrated serum of extracts in water or oil base
Ampoules
Abbreviated BHAS; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acids ( AHAS); BHAS dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin
Beta hydroxy acids
Ingredients used in anti aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen
Beta glucans
Derived from the root of the comfrey plant,helps to soften and protect while actively soothing skin
Allantoin
Derived from the kernels of the argan tree; very light botanical oil used as an emollient
Argan oil
Ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used to treat inflamed acne lesions
Benzoyl peroxide
Popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and humectant with hydrating,softening,healing, anti microbial, and anti inflammatory properties
Aloe Vera
A natural molecule found in every cell in the body it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil
Alpha lipoic acid
Ingredients used to thicken cream frequently used in gel products
Carbomers
Describes products that do not contain any water
Anhydrous
Also called toners, these liquids help remove excess oil on the skin
Astringents
Ingredients derived from plants
Botanicals
Anti inflammatory plant extract
Calendula
