I'm so grateful I passed my test<3 Flashcards
lanthionine bonds
bonds created when disulfide bonds are broken by hydroxide chemical hair relaxers
anagen phase
growth phase; new hair is produced
polypeptide chain
long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds
cysteine
amino acid with a sulfur (S) atom that joins together two peptide strands
catagen phase
brief transition period between the growth and resting phases of a hair follicle; signals the end of the growth phase
telogen phase
also known as resting phase; the final phase in the hair cycle that lasts until the fully grown hair is shed
side bonds
bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair; account for about one-third of hair’s overall strength
peptide bond
also known as an end bond; chemical bond that joins amino acids to each other, end-to-end, to form a polypeptide chain
salt bond
weak physical cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains that is broken by changes in pH
hydrogen bond
weak physical cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat
disulfide bond
strong chemical side bond that joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine amino acids to create one cysteine, which joins together two polypeptide strands like rungs on a ladder
Which layer of hair is responsible for strength, elasticity, and color?
The cortex
In the context of side bonds, which of the following is a similarity between hydrogen bonds and salt bonds?
Both result from attracting opposite charges
pityriasis capitis simplex
technical term for classic dandruff; characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and itchy scalp
furuncle
boil; acute, localized bacterial infection of the tissue surrounding a hair follicle
monilethrix
technical term for beaded hair
trichorrhexis nodosa
knotted hair; characterized by brittleness and the formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft
hirsuties
growth of terminal hair on a woman’s body in an area that would not typically have terminal hair; often found on upper lip, chin, cheeks and chest
malassezia
naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin; fungus that causes visibly shed skin cells, or dandruff, that can sit on the scalp and create dryness, itchiness, and discomfort
hypertrichosis
condition of hair growth where the hair grows longer or thicker than usual
ringed hair
variety of canities characterized by alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair throughout the length of the hair strand
tinea
ringworm; contagious condition caused by fungal infection; characterized by itching, scales, and— sometimes—painful lesions
scutula
dry, sulfur-yellow crusts on the scalp in tinea favosa or tinea favus; has distinctive odor
pediculosis capitis
infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice
trichoptilosis
split ends
canities
technical term for gray or white hair; results from the loss of the hair’s natural melanin pigment
scabies
highly contagious condition caused by mites called Sarcoptes scabiei that lay eggs inside the skin
tinea favosa
also known as tinea favus or honeycomb ringworm; fungal infection characterized by dry, sulfuryellow crusts on the scalp called scutula
carbuncles
inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci; a cluster of furuncles
Alopecia areata is
an autoimmune disorder
Minoxidil
comes in two percent and five percent
tinea capitis
is a fungal scalp infection known as ringworm of the scalp. The term ringworm is used due to the circular shape of the lesion. It is characterized by red spots at the opening of the hair follicles.
surfactant
also known as base detergent; cleansing or surface-active agents used in a variety of products, including shampoo
ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
metal hydroxide relaxers
ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) that is combined with oxygen and hydrogen
thio relaxers
use reduction and oxidation to break the disulfide bonds and then reform them to a more relaxed hair texture, use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
lanthionization
process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond
low-pH waves
perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
sodium hydroxide relaxer
also known as lye relaxer or caustic soda; used to break the disulfide bonds and loosen curls
ammonia-free waves
perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor
calcium hydroxide
or Ca(OH)2, active ingredient in a no-lye based relaxer; pH level of a no-lye relaxer is typically lower than a lye-based one; often associated with dryer hair
lye relaxers
also known as sodium hydroxide or caustic soda; used to break the disulfide bonds and loosen curls
thio-free waves
perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine
glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
true acid waves
have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves
hydroxide neutralization
acid–alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds
hydroxide relaxers
used to relax the hair; contains a very strong alkali with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
alkaline waves
also known as cold waves; have pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process without the addition of heat according to the manufacturer’s instructions
endothermic waves
perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hairdryer
thio neutralization
relies on an oxidation process to stop the action of the relaxer solution and rebuild the hair into its new form
enzymes
also known as keratolytic enzymes or protein-dissolving agents; a type of chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin
Galvanic current is used when
the objective of the treatment is to assist in delivering targeted products to the skin or prepare the skin for extractions
the last step of a client consultation
completing the consent form
Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
provides guidelines for protecting cosmetologists from chemicals that can affect their health.
