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2nd shift lecs > Hair styling, straightening and waving > Flashcards

Hair styling, straightening and waving Flashcards

1
Q

HAIR STYLING AIDS (HAIR FIXATIVES)
Two types:

A
  1. Polymer-based products
  2. Emollient-based products
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2
Q
  • Help smooth out frizz and increase hair shine by aligning fibers and reducing friction
  • No stiffening unlike polymer
A

Emollient-based products

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2
Q

Improve hair volume and height by increasing hair strand stiffness and hair fiber interactions

A

Polymer-based products

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3
Q

Examples:
- Hair spray
- Styling gel
- Mousse
- Liquid setting products

A

Polymer-based products

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4
Q

Examples:
- Hair cream
- Wax
- Pomade
- Oil spray

A

Emollient-based products

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5
Q

Alter the natural configuration of hair fibers and modify hair’s natural straightness/curliness

A

HAIR WAVING AND STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS

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6
Q

Make use of curling rods

A

Temporary waving

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7
Q
  • Products applied in two separate
    steps
  • There is chemical treatment
  • Strong bonds: disulfide bonds (broken down during permanent waving process)
A

Permanent waving

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8
Q

Use flat irons

A

For temporary effect

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8
Q
  • Products applied in two separate
    steps
  • Break the disulfide bonds and
    restructure them
  • the chemical treatment breaks
    disulfide bonds and realigns them to the desired look
A

For permanent effect

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9
Q
  • Non-flaky
  • Non-tacky
  • Rapid drying time
  • Strong hold
A

QUALITY CHARACTERISTICS of Polymer-based products

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10
Q
  • Non-greasy
  • Does not make hair look oily and limp
  • Aids in hair manageability
  • Improves shine
A

QUALITY CHARACTERISTICS of Emollient-based products

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11
Q

Permanent styling products can change the appearance
of human hair and are considered as OTC drugs in the US (t or f)

A

F; Hair styling is always considered a cosmetic, regardless of whether it is temporary or permanent

-These products do not change the function of hair cells, since these are dead cells

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12
Q

Holds hair in styled configuration

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Polymers

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13
Q

PVP, PVP + vinyl acetate copolymers

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Polymers

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14
Q

Viscosity control

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Thickeners

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15
Q

Polyacrylates
(carbomers),
cellulose

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Thickeners

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16
Q

Formulation vehicle

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Solvents

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17
Q

Water, alcohol

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Solvents

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18
Q

Help expel content of aerosol can

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Propellants

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19
Q

Dimethyl ether,
propane, FHC

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Propellants

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20
Q

Make polymer films more flexible

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
`

A

Plasticizers

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21
Q

Castor oil, mineral oil

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Plasticizers

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22
Q

Benzophenone-4,
OMC

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Sunscreens

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22
Q

Protect against UV radiation

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Sunscreens

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23
Q

Protect from metal ions (causing
instability)
Metals are from water
(Ca and Mg)

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Chelating
agents

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24
Q

EDTA

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Chelating
agents

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25
Q

Protect from microbial contaminants

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Preservatives

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26
Q

Parabens,
phenoxyethanol

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Preservatives

27
Q

Humectants, conditioners, fragrances, vitamins, herbal extracts

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Additional
ingredients

28
Q

Provide waxy mass & hair conditioning

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Anhydrous base

29
Q

Beeswax, lanolin,
silicones

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Anhydrous
base

30
Q

Vehicle for the emulsion-based
formulation

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

31
Q

Water

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

32
Q

Create emulsions, and aid in product removal

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Surfactants

33
Q

Increase hold level of product

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

34
Q

Change product’s viscosity and texture

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Thickeners

35
Q

Sunscreens, texture, fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Additional ingredients

36
Q

POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS

A

Hair Sprays
Setting Lotion
Hair Mousse
Hair Styling Fiber Gums (Putties)
Hair Gels

37
Q

EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS

A

Hair Pomades (Cream Brilliantines)
Hair Brilliantines
Sprayable Oils and Silicones (Oil Sheen Sprays)
Hair Creams

38
Q
  • Applied to dry hair as the final step of styling the hair
A

Hair Sprays

39
Q

Two types of hair sprays

A

aerosol hair sprays and non aerosol

40
Q
  • Most widely used by both consumers and hair stylists
  • Released as fine particles that dry
    quickly
  • Convenient

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Aerosol hair sprays

41
Q
  • Dispersed through plastic container with pump head
  • Forms bigger droplets that wet hair more rapidly
    >Takes longer to dry

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Non-aerosol hair sprays

42
Q
  • Applied to towel-dried hair rolled onto curling rollers
    >Less common now
  • Coat the hair fibers and set them in a curled shape
  • Less sticky than the sprays

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Setting Lotion

43
Q
  • Aerosol and non-aerosol
  • Add volume, improve texture, and control hair mass

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Hair Mousse

44
Q

Bendable and moldable styling products that add increased hold to hair

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Hair Styling Fiber Gums (Putties)

45
Q
  • May be applied on wet or dry hair from a tube or jar
  • Offer both smooth hold and extreme look
    > Marketed from mild to extreme hold
  • ______ allow “gravity-defying” hairstyles (nakataas)

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Hair Gels; sculpting gels

46
Q
  • Anhydrous products designed to straighten, condition, and moisturize hair
    >Anhydrous base means an oily base
    >Waxy or conditioning ingredients
  • Add shine and reduce frizziness
  • Applied on both towel-dried and dry hair

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Hair Pomades (Cream Brilliantines)

47
Q
  • Allows for easy styling and add shine to hair without greasy appearance
  • Liquid form

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Hair Brilliantines

48
Q
  • Condition the hair and decrease the combing friction (can be sprayed any time of the day)
  • Aerosolized oils with conditioning agents
  • Leave-on type
  • Silicone added to decrease greasiness / flat hair effect
    >Using only oil makes hair appear heavy

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Sprayable Oils and Silicones (Oil Sheen Sprays)

49
Q

O/W or W/O emulsions that provide modest hold and high gloss

(EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Hair Creams

50
Q

STIFFNESS OF HAIR FIBERS

A

Bending Test

51
Q
  • Measures force required to bend or break the polymer film
  • Stiffness is proportional to the viscosity of polymer solutions and total amount of polymer deposited on the hair (indicator of the
    effectiveness of polymer based product)
  • Hair swatches used is synthetic hair
A

Bending Test

52
Q

FIXATIVE TACKINESS

A

Tackiness Test

53
Q
  • Hair tresses are treated with hairspray or fixative and evaluated by panelists
  • Measures time needed to indicate absence of tack on hair which is equivalent to the drying time of the polymer film
A

Tackiness Test

54
Q
  • Initial length of curls is recorded and wide-toothed comb is passed through tresses, then length of tress is recorded
A

Curl Snap Test

54
Q
  • Uses the texture analyzer
    > Omega (Ω) shaped instrument
  • Measures stiffness and increase of stiffness after applying the hair spray, as well as tackiness and drying time
  • All in one test (measures tackiness and drying time)
  • Temperature and humidity effects may also be evaluated
A

DYNAMIC HAIR SPRAY ANALYSIS

55
Q
  • Curl retention test
  • Initial length of curls is recorded, then these are placed in
    a high-humidity environment
  • Length is recorded at predefined time intervals
  • % curl retention is calculated
A

HUMIDITY RESISTANCE OF TREATED HAIR TRESSES

56
Q
  • Treated hair tresses are hung into supporting board and small-toothed comb is passed
  • Panelists inspects the hair, comb, and area under support stand to evaluate _______
57
Q
  • Designed to protect hair from heat damage and friction, and enhance hair flexibility to reform and hold shape
  • Sprayed after blow-drying or before using curling iron
  • Includes silicones, conditioning polymers, film-forming polymers, and protein
A

HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY

58
Q

HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY available as:

A
  • Water-based and
  • Hydroalcoholic preparations
59
Q

Since both hair and skin consists of keratin, they are equally susceptible to attack of thioglycolates. (t or f)

A

F; There are two types of keratin.
- The skin contains soft keratin, where there is less cysteine and fewer disulfide bonds.
- The hair has hard keratin, which has more cysteine and more disulfide bonds, thus more
susceptibility to thioglycolate

60
Q
  • With occlusive agent like petrolatum which is applied to the scalp and hairline prior to chemical treatment
  • May contain NaOH at 3.5%

(HYDROXIDE-BASED STRAIGHTENERS (LYE STRAIGHTENERS))

A

Base products

61
Q

Contain less NaOH, and require base application on hairline only

(HYDROXIDE-BASED STRAIGHTENERS (LYE STRAIGHTENERS))

A

No-base products

62
Q
  • Contain alternative hydroxides like guanidine hydroxides made by combining calcium hydroxide with guanidine carbonate
  • Less irritating
  • Does not requires base application

(HYDROXIDE-BASED STRAIGHTENERS (LYE STRAIGHTENERS))

A

No-lye relaxers

63
Q

Neutralizer resets the pH, minimize hair shaft swelling,
and complete relaxing treatment
(t or f)

64
Q

Act in same was as thioglycolate-based hair perming products, except hair is not washed
prior to treatment

(REDUCING AGENT-BASED STRAIGHTENERS)

A

Thioglycolate-based straighteners

65
Q
  • Have pH around 7 and are milder to skin & hair
  • Does not requires oxidant, but employ neutralizing solution containing sodium carbonate or bicarbonate
A

Sulfite-based products

66
Q
  • Contains formaldehyde as main active ingredient
  • Keratin-based straightening solution is applied followed by high-temperature (150 to 200
    oC) flat iron, then hair is rinsed and conditioned
  • Use is associated with severe adverse effects
A

BRAZILIAN KERATIN TREATMENT (BRAZILIAN BLOWOUT)

67
Q

PERFORMANCE PARAMETERS

A
  • DIT Value
  • Curl Length
  • 20% index

2nd shift lecs (21 decks)

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