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2nd shift lecs > Hair styling, straightening and waving > Flashcards

Hair styling, straightening and waving Flashcards

1
Q

HAIR STYLING AIDS (HAIR FIXATIVES)
Two types:

A
  1. Polymer-based products
  2. Emollient-based products
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2
Q
  • Help smooth out frizz and increase hair shine by aligning fibers and reducing friction
  • No stiffening unlike polymer
A

Emollient-based products

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2
Q

Improve hair volume and height by increasing hair strand stiffness and hair fiber interactions

A

Polymer-based products

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3
Q

Examples:
- Hair spray
- Styling gel
- Mousse
- Liquid setting products

A

Polymer-based products

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4
Q

Examples:
- Hair cream
- Wax
- Pomade
- Oil spray

A

Emollient-based products

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5
Q

Alter the natural configuration of hair fibers and modify hair’s natural straightness/curliness

A

HAIR WAVING AND STRAIGHTENING PRODUCTS

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6
Q

Make use of curling rods

A

Temporary waving

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7
Q
  • Products applied in two separate
    steps
  • There is chemical treatment
  • Strong bonds: disulfide bonds (broken down during permanent waving process)
A

Permanent waving

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8
Q

Use flat irons

A

For temporary effect

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8
Q
  • Products applied in two separate
    steps
  • Break the disulfide bonds and
    restructure them
  • the chemical treatment breaks
    disulfide bonds and realigns them to the desired look
A

For permanent effect

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9
Q
  • Non-flaky
  • Non-tacky
  • Rapid drying time
  • Strong hold
A

QUALITY CHARACTERISTICS of Polymer-based products

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10
Q
  • Non-greasy
  • Does not make hair look oily and limp
  • Aids in hair manageability
  • Improves shine
A

QUALITY CHARACTERISTICS of Emollient-based products

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11
Q

Permanent styling products can change the appearance
of human hair and are considered as OTC drugs in the US (t or f)

A

F; Hair styling is always considered a cosmetic, regardless of whether it is temporary or permanent

-These products do not change the function of hair cells, since these are dead cells

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12
Q

Holds hair in styled configuration

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Polymers

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13
Q

PVP, PVP + vinyl acetate copolymers

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Polymers

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14
Q

Viscosity control

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Thickeners

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15
Q

Polyacrylates
(carbomers),
cellulose

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Thickeners

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16
Q

Formulation vehicle

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Solvents

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17
Q

Water, alcohol

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Solvents

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18
Q

Help expel content of aerosol can

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Propellants

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19
Q

Dimethyl ether,
propane, FHC

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Propellants

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20
Q

Make polymer films more flexible

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
`

A

Plasticizers

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21
Q

Castor oil, mineral oil

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Plasticizers

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22
Q

Benzophenone-4,
OMC

(POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)

A

Sunscreens

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22
Protect against UV radiation (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Sunscreens
23
Protect from metal ions (causing instability) Metals are from water (Ca and Mg) (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Chelating agents
24
EDTA (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Chelating agents
25
Protect from microbial contaminants (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Preservatives
26
Parabens, phenoxyethanol (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Preservatives
27
Humectants, conditioners, fragrances, vitamins, herbal extracts (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Additional ingredients
28
Provide waxy mass & hair conditioning (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Anhydrous base
29
Beeswax, lanolin, silicones (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Anhydrous base
30
Vehicle for the emulsion-based formulation (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Solvents
31
Water (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Solvents
32
Create emulsions, and aid in product removal (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Surfactants
33
Increase hold level of product (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Polymers
34
Change product’s viscosity and texture (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Thickeners
35
Sunscreens, texture, fragrances, antioxidants, preservatives (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Additional ingredients
36
POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS
Hair Sprays Setting Lotion Hair Mousse Hair Styling Fiber Gums (Putties) Hair Gels
37
EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS
Hair Pomades (Cream Brilliantines) Hair Brilliantines Sprayable Oils and Silicones (Oil Sheen Sprays) Hair Creams
38
- Applied to dry hair as the final step of styling the hair
Hair Sprays
39
Two types of hair sprays
aerosol hair sprays and non aerosol
40
- Most widely used by both consumers and hair stylists - Released as fine particles that dry quickly - Convenient (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Aerosol hair sprays
41
- Dispersed through plastic container with pump head - Forms bigger droplets that wet hair more rapidly >Takes longer to dry (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Non-aerosol hair sprays
42
- Applied to towel-dried hair rolled onto curling rollers >Less common now - Coat the hair fibers and set them in a curled shape - Less sticky than the sprays (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Setting Lotion
43
- Aerosol and non-aerosol - Add volume, improve texture, and control hair mass (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Hair Mousse
44
Bendable and moldable styling products that add increased hold to hair (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Hair Styling Fiber Gums (Putties)
45
- May be applied on wet or dry hair from a tube or jar - Offer both smooth hold and extreme look > Marketed from mild to extreme hold - ______ allow “gravity-defying” hairstyles (nakataas) (POLYMER-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Hair Gels; sculpting gels
46
- Anhydrous products designed to straighten, condition, and moisturize hair >Anhydrous base means an oily base >Waxy or conditioning ingredients - Add shine and reduce frizziness - Applied on both towel-dried and dry hair (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Hair Pomades (Cream Brilliantines)
47
- Allows for easy styling and add shine to hair without greasy appearance - Liquid form (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Hair Brilliantines
48
- Condition the hair and decrease the combing friction (can be sprayed any time of the day) - Aerosolized oils with conditioning agents - Leave-on type - Silicone added to decrease greasiness / flat hair effect >Using only oil makes hair appear heavy (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Sprayable Oils and Silicones (Oil Sheen Sprays)
49
O/W or W/O emulsions that provide modest hold and high gloss (EMOLLIENT-BASED HAIR STYLING FORMULATIONS)
Hair Creams
50
STIFFNESS OF HAIR FIBERS
Bending Test
51
- Measures force required to bend or break the polymer film - Stiffness is proportional to the viscosity of polymer solutions and total amount of polymer deposited on the hair (indicator of the effectiveness of polymer based product) - Hair swatches used is synthetic hair
Bending Test
52
FIXATIVE TACKINESS
Tackiness Test
53
- Hair tresses are treated with hairspray or fixative and evaluated by panelists - Measures time needed to indicate absence of tack on hair which is equivalent to the drying time of the polymer film
Tackiness Test
54
- Initial length of curls is recorded and wide-toothed comb is passed through tresses, then length of tress is recorded
Curl Snap Test
54
- Uses the texture analyzer > Omega (Ω) shaped instrument - Measures stiffness and increase of stiffness after applying the hair spray, as well as tackiness and drying time - All in one test (measures tackiness and drying time) - Temperature and humidity effects may also be evaluated
DYNAMIC HAIR SPRAY ANALYSIS
55
- Curl retention test - Initial length of curls is recorded, then these are placed in a high-humidity environment - Length is recorded at predefined time intervals - % curl retention is calculated
HUMIDITY RESISTANCE OF TREATED HAIR TRESSES
56
- Treated hair tresses are hung into supporting board and small-toothed comb is passed - Panelists inspects the hair, comb, and area under support stand to evaluate _______
Flaking
57
- Designed to protect hair from heat damage and friction, and enhance hair flexibility to reform and hold shape - Sprayed after blow-drying or before using curling iron - Includes silicones, conditioning polymers, film-forming polymers, and protein
HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY
58
HEAT PROTECTION SPRAY available as:
- Water-based and - Hydroalcoholic preparations
59
Since both hair and skin consists of keratin, they are equally susceptible to attack of thioglycolates. (t or f)
F; There are two types of keratin. - The skin contains soft keratin, where there is less cysteine and fewer disulfide bonds. - The hair has hard keratin, which has more cysteine and more disulfide bonds, thus more susceptibility to thioglycolate
60
- With occlusive agent like petrolatum which is applied to the scalp and hairline prior to chemical treatment - May contain NaOH at 3.5% (HYDROXIDE-BASED STRAIGHTENERS (LYE STRAIGHTENERS))
Base products
61
Contain less NaOH, and require base application on hairline only (HYDROXIDE-BASED STRAIGHTENERS (LYE STRAIGHTENERS))
No-base products
62
- Contain alternative hydroxides like guanidine hydroxides made by combining calcium hydroxide with guanidine carbonate - Less irritating - Does not requires base application (HYDROXIDE-BASED STRAIGHTENERS (LYE STRAIGHTENERS))
No-lye relaxers
63
Neutralizer resets the pH, minimize hair shaft swelling, and complete relaxing treatment (t or f)
T
64
Act in same was as thioglycolate-based hair perming products, except hair is not washed prior to treatment (REDUCING AGENT-BASED STRAIGHTENERS)
Thioglycolate-based straighteners
65
- Have pH around 7 and are milder to skin & hair - Does not requires oxidant, but employ neutralizing solution containing sodium carbonate or bicarbonate
Sulfite-based products
66
- Contains formaldehyde as main active ingredient - Keratin-based straightening solution is applied followed by high-temperature (150 to 200 oC) flat iron, then hair is rinsed and conditioned - Use is associated with severe adverse effects
BRAZILIAN KERATIN TREATMENT (BRAZILIAN BLOWOUT)
67
PERFORMANCE PARAMETERS
- DIT Value - Curl Length - 20% index

2nd shift lecs (21 decks)

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